Electric outlet in workshop ceiling

[Jerry Todd]

I want to place six electric outlets in the ceiling of my new workshop. I saw a picture (think it was on the POND) that someone posted of a metal outlet plate with a electric cord attached to it hanging from the ceiling. Does anyone know the name of fixture and a source? The electrician that wired my house has never heard of such a fixture.
Thanks

[Jim Becker]

I want to place six electric outlets in the ceiling of my new workshop. I saw a picture (think it was on the POND) that someone posted of a metal outlet plate with a electric cord attached to it hanging from the ceiling. Does anyone know the name of fixture and a source? The electrician that wired my house has never heard of such a fixture.

These consist of a junction box on the ceiling with a short pigtail cord within a wire mesh strain-relief hanging down. A female twist lock connector* is normally used for obvious reasons. ANY "real" electrical supply will have them available! (I was originally going to use these in my shop, but took a different path once I worked things out)

*I use twist-locks on all my 240v outlets and cords to insure they stay put no matter what. The only exception is the DC which needs a regular three-prong 20a 240v connector to work with the X-10 module I control with it.

[David Perkins]

I have done that same thing in my shop. I went to the local hardware store and described what I was wanting and they gathered what I needed. I got a length of 12 gage multi strand wire, a plastic double wire box, two outlets, metal outlet cover, male plug, and a couple of strain relief covers. I would never have a shop with out a 4 outlet hanging cord over the work bench.
David

[Ken Frantz]

Jerry

First easy way is to buy one of those retractable cord reels and hang it from the ceiling. That way you could pull it out a far as it would go and still be able to retract it out of your way.

Another idea I seen someplace was a "clothline" stetched across the shop wall wall to wall and a cord supended with short loops with something simular to shower curtain rings. Then this could be pull any where in the shop.

Hey I notice you are just a hop, skip and a jump from my "home 20" in Ocala!!!!

Ken

[Jim Becker]

First easy way is to buy one of those retractable cord reels and hang it from the ceiling.

Be sure you carefully check the amperage rating of these "cords on a reel". Many are made for use well below even 15 amps...and that's sometimes a concern in the woodworking shop.

[Gary Bindel]

I mounted 4x4 boxes in the ceiling and put commercial grade receptacles in the boxes. The commercial grade receptacles hold much tighter, but be prepared to pay over $2.50 ea. I have not had any problems with plugs coming loose. I ran 12/3 w/gnd so I have two circuits in each box.

[Lee Schierer]

I placed four duplex receptacles in boxes in the ceiling. These were intended for the florescent lights which had plug in cords. I have several outlets that are open. I have on occcasion plugged in a heavy duty extension cord and used it to run my router or sander. It works great unless you yank on the cord.

[Dr. Zack Jennings]

I have 220 & 110 boxes in my ceiling attached to the exposed trusses. I have a 3 plug extension cord wired into one 110 box. [ I cut the male off and tied a knot in the box].You can wrap it [the cord] around the truss to shorten the length. The 220 is a twist type connector. I plan more of 220's when I get more tools.

[Rob Russell]

I cut the male off and tied a knot in the box

Zack, Zack, Zack - it's a good thing you're a doctor and not an electrician :D .

"Tying a knot" inside a junction box is not a code-approved way of transitioning to an extension cord. If it's hard-wired in to your house like that, it's covered by the NEC. You should use a proper bushing and strain relief on the cord.

I've heard of folks attaching a 4-outlet box to their ceiling josits. From there, run some regular extention cords supported by shower hangers on a wire or logn dowel. The hangers allow you to move the cord out of the way or over to different parts of the shop. Since it's not a permanent part of the dwelling (it unplugs), I don't think the NEC applies to it.

There also also "retractable cords" available. You can get the spring loaded spool kind or just order the coiled cords from places like Graingers or McMaster-Carr.

Rob - also not an electrician, just an unlicensed homeowner who likes to play with wiring.

[John Christiansen]

[ I cut the male off and tied a knot in the box].You can wrap it [the cord] around the truss to shorten the length. The 220 is a twist type connector. I plan more of 220's when I get more tools.

That's pretty scarey Dr. Zack. Use these, they're far less expensive than a fire.

[Jim Becker]

That's pretty scarey Dr. Zack. Use these, they're far less expensive than a fire.

John, that's exactly what I was describing "verbally" above! Thanks for the picture as it will help folks visualize the right way to do this.

[Kneale Brownson]

I placed four duplex receptacles in boxes in the ceiling. These were intended for the florescent lights which had plug in cords. I have several outlets that are open. I have on occcasion plugged in a heavy duty extension cord and used it to run my router or sander. It works great unless you yank on the cord.


You want to be careful that an overload using that extension cord plugged into your lights circuit doesn't result in your losing your lights, Lee.

[Dr. Zack Jennings]

I'm Busted I actually did not do any of the wiring myself. The 220 was put in by a licensed electrician and I assisted my helper to wire the 110's. [I fetch things] I'm not sure how they did it but I do know the 110 drop is a heavy extension cord wired into the box. It works really well and keeps me from tripping over so many cords.

By the way, my electrician doesn't straighten teeth as well as I can. Those reducer things.... are they a crimp on deal? I'll have to take a closer look at how they did mine and look for those. We plan to add more outlets but I have not and will not be the one that does it. Still....I want it done right.
<center>Thanks Guys

[Rob Russell]

Zack,

Just so you know, one of the biggest problems with the approach you mentioned is tying the knot to keep the wires up. Wires have a minimum bending radius to prevent breaking or cracking the conductors. Even if the knot was "loose" in the beginning, it will tighten up over time as weight is put on it. It's definitely a fire safety thing.

What do you mean by the "reducer things" - the strain relief? Those have a threaded male end with nut that threads into a standard knockout. The strain relief is from the "chinese puzzle" braid and that keeps the wire from pulling out.

Rob

[Richard Allen]

Hi Jerry

I know we all like to get the utility we need or want for a good price. So this might be out of line.

Wiremold.

You can get a six foot length of wiremold that has a dozen outlets at 6" intervals. There is a two circuit version that will make every other outlet on a different circuit. The length is steel and when attached 16" intervals the outlet strip is stiff and secure. The sockets grip tight and at every 6" there always seams to be one in easy reach.

The stuff is pricey at $50 for a 6' strip.

Thanks

Richard

[Rob Russell]

For $80 including shipping, you can get (6) used strips, and that's just 1 set of auctions I saw. I've found Ebay to be a good place to snag stuff cheap, as long as you're patient and careful about how shipping costs fit into the equation.

[hillel posner]

I realize this is an old thread, I need a drop from the ceiling for my planer. It's a 220 20 amps. I am using a cable strain relief but I am not sure how to pass it through the sheetrock on the ceiling? Do I just drill a whole and drop it through? I'd like to surface mount the box in the ceiling, but it seems that code doesn't allow you to hang the strain relief from the cover plate (does it)? Thus I have the box mounted sideways on a rafter and the strain relief coming out of one of the side holes. It works fine, but next week I am going to sheet rock and I am stumped. Does anybody have a picture of how it works?

[Mike Berrevoets]

I used a square (4 by 4) metal work box mounted to the side of the truss. Found a metal cover plate with a knockout that worked for the strain relief (Chinese finger cuffs). The plate is more or less flush with the drywall. Not the prettiest thing but it was inspected and passed. (The first inspection I didn't have the strain relief and the inspector pointed it out and required that it be installed.)

Im not an electrician so I can't say it's all perfect to code. I just know it worked for me and was inspected.