Saw vibrating in cut

[Steven Mikes]

When I'm making crosscuts with my Disston saw, I frequently experience the saw tip oscillating rapidly side-to-side on the pull stroke. Is there a way to avoid this?

[Andrew Hughes]

Steve I think that’s a sign of too much set in the teeth. Maybe it will get better with use

[James Pallas]

Andrew has one thing for sure. Try this tho. Make certain you don't tighten your fingers against the side of the handle when you pul back and dont drag the saw on the back side of the cut. When I was learning years ago the carpenter I was working with could hear that vibration two rooms away and would yell something about my ability to follow instructions that wasn't very nice.
Jim

[Steven Mikes]

I usually try to keep a light grip, pretty sure it's not that (I just tried again paying special attention). The teeth do appear to have a lot of set, especially back closer to the handle. Maybe I could try hammering it out some. Does a crosscut saw even really need set?

[Phil Mueller]

Steven, yes, some set is necessary to keep the saw from binding. For a great overview of this, see Pete Taran’s site; Vintagesaws. Go to the Library tab, and then to ”The How’s of Setting Saws”.

[Jim Koepke]

I usually try to keep a light grip, pretty sure it's not that (I just tried again paying special attention). The teeth do appear to have a lot of set, especially back closer to the handle. Maybe I could try hammering it out some. Does a crosscut saw even really need set?

As Phil said, yes a western crosscut saw does need some set. How much depends on the wood it is cutting. Green wood and various species of fir tend to need more set than dry hardwoods.

Do the teeth near the tote actually have more set or less wear? Having more set at the end of the blade can cause a saw to bind in the cut.

If you have a decent vise it is also a good way to reduce the set. Fold a sheet, or two, of paper over the teeth and tighten the vise jaws in the tooth line of the saw.

jtk

[Stewie Simpson]

Stopping the Wubawubawuba


What's the wubawubawuba? It's that annoying vibration the saw makes when you are pulling the saw back up through the cut. What's really happening is the saw is binding in it's own cut. There may be several causes: either there isn't enough set on the saw, and it is binding, or the sawyer is pulling the back up at an angle not in line with the cut being made, causing the blade to bind that way. Also, make sure it isn't the wood closing up behind the initial cut, closing itself over the blade.

The fix is first to check your technique, then add a bit of set once you've satisfied yourself that your technique isn't at fault. Use a guide like the ones mentioned on the previous page to help you diagnose your technique. http://norsewoodsmith.com/?q=content/diagnosing-common-issues-hand-saws

[Ron Bontz]

Just my 2 pennies worth. I would concur with Stewie. While improper set can be a problem, I have found in my limited experience that technique is more common. There is a natural tendency to rotate the hand slightly when pulling back. This can cause the wobble as it binds slightly and the plate deflects enough to start the oscillations. Before going crazy on the saw teeth, I would pay particular attention to the back stroke compared to the forward. Again. Just my 2 cents worth. I have issues with this sometimes myself. If the saw is set properly there will be an increase in the kerf from toe to heel due to the thickness of the plate increasing toe to heel. So IMHO there should be no binding if the stroke is true.

[brian zawatsky]

I usually try to keep a light grip, pretty sure it's not that (I just tried again paying special attention). The teeth do appear to have a lot of set, especially back closer to the handle. Maybe I could try hammering it out some. Does a crosscut saw even really need set?

I think that if your problem is related to saw set, it would be too little set rather than too much. An overset saw would be jumpy on the push stroke, hard to start, prone to wander, and will leave a less-than-desirable finish. I’ve noticed that when I experience that “toe whip” effect the on the backstroke it’s because of my lousy technique lol. I remind myself frequently to relax while sawing.

Edit: Also, you should be very careful when using a hammer to remove set, because you can ruin the tension in the saw plate if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Also, I just realized that I pretty much just echoed what Stewie and Ron said. Sorry to have contributed nil to the discussion :D

[Andrew Seemann]

Vibration can also happen if there is a bend in the saw blade, or the sides are sticking, like from a little oxidation. If those are good, as others have said, it tends to be more often caused by pulling back slightly off plane. When I have taught people to use a hand saw, I have demonstrated using the saw with only my thumb and index finger together around the saw handle, not even gripping it, just holding it that loose, to show how lightly you can hold the saw handle and still cut.

There is an instinctive tendency to hold the handle in a death grip, which unfortunately does nothing but make it hard to cut wood and make your hand hurt. To start with, try holding the handle lightly to the point of it moving a little bit in your hand between push and pull strokes. That will also help develop the habit of letting the saw do the work, rather than trying to chop through the wood with the saw.

[Alexander Zagubny]

Steven, I have similar problem with slight difference. My saw vibrates during resawing when I'm starting a cut, only when the blade is not engaged to the full width of the board.
That makes me think it has do something with remaining length of the saw and the speed so saw get non-fading oscillation. I know however that my saw blade is not straight.

What helps me is to straighten the blade as much as possible and keep the blade engaged along full width.
395814

[Zach Dillinger]

Thirded... I'm willing to be that the saw is not being held at a consistent angle on the up and down stroke.

[lowell holmes]

You might take a flat file and take two strokes on each side of the teeth to insure they are all set equally. Don't be aggressive with it.