Collet type gouge handles

[Dave Fritz]

I know Robust makes a collet type tip for gouges and I think there are others as well. Has anyone used them and if so what brand and how do you like it?

[Dwight Rutherford]

Michael Hosaluk and Jimmy Clewes have similar offerings.

[Dick Mahany]

I have several of the Kelton ER16 and ER25 handles. They are very well built and solid. I bought them quite a few years ago and now I don't see a distributor in the USA. The one thing I dislike somewhat with those is that the soft handle covering material seems to attract and retain dust and shavings. Other than that issue the ability to use ER collets makes the handles very useful in my shop.

What I do like about them is that the ER25 handle can be filled with shot for vibration damping and the ER16 handle can also be connected to the ER25 handle for a very long combined handle. Another plus is that I like to sharpen my gouges without the handle and the collets make this easy.

[David M Peters]

I have two of the ER-25 Robust handles, they work great. I like that they take standard inserts because no matter what the exact diameter of your tool is it'll work. I made a handle for one and for the other got the pre-made model. Drilling for the insert is fussy because it's A) a large hole, and B) is a bit bigger than the closest 1/16" increment so I had to do some interior sanding to get it to fit.

[Dave Fritz]

Question for Dick and David, how do you store your unhandled gouged when not in use? Thanks for the information both of you and Dwight.

[Dick Mahany]

Question for Dick and David, how do you store your unhandled gouges when not in use?


I store my unhandled gouges in the short top tier PVC tubes on my lathe tool cart. While this works fine for me, many folks do not like this type of tool arrangement due to the risk of touching sharp edges.

395585

[David M Peters]

Dave - I only have a few extra unhandled gouges so they live in a drawer. My theoretical plan is to dedicate my collet handles to specialty stuff that don't need a full-time spot in my tool rack so pulling them out the drawer for a project isn't a big deal.

[Eugene Dixon]

I have one of the Robust handles and use it with some Thompson gouges. i find that the tool slips in the collet occasionally (rotate) and often times I have to disassemble the whole thing to remove the gouge, i.e., there is not slip in/slip out. I may be doing something wrong. But I like the feel.

[terry mccammon]

I have the Robust handle which I use with both Thompson gouges and some hollowing tools. No issues in my case. After seeing the Robust handle I said well duh and made two more for myself. Not near as nice as Brent English but good enough.

[Joe Kaufman]

I've had a Stewart Batty Carbon Fiber ER25 collet handle for about a year. I really like it. There is also a ER30 collet version that will take 3/4 inch tool shafts. A little on the pricey side is the only drawback I see. I believe its only available from Woodworkers Emporium in Las Vegas. This is not the older SB Taper-Lock version.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I have the Jimmy Clewes collets and they seem to work very well. I bought them from Doug Thompson.

[John K Jordan]

I know Robust makes a collet type tip for gouges and I think there are others as well. Has anyone used them and if so what brand and how do you like it?

David,

I don't use the true collet types because I like those with the set screws better, sometimes also called a collet but often called an insert. They can be more compact than the collets and hold the tool exceptionally well. Also they are almost free if you make them yourself. I always make them with two set screws.

395696

For smaller gouges such as 1/4" spindle gouges the I prefer a small insert since I often hold the tool one-handed very near the shaft. Others are up to 5/8", the largest shafts I have in the shop.

I drill a deep hole in the handle so I can sink the tool shaft as deep as I need to limit the length protruding for close work. (The Thompson handles are like this too.) You do need an allen wrench handy but I keep a T-handle allen wrench on the front of the lathe with a magnet.

I make these from aluminum on the wood lathe (with woodturning tools) and from steel, brass, and aluminum on the metal lathe.

395700 395698 395699

You asked about storing tools - I have a workbench just behind me at the lathe and I store most of the unhandled tools in a one of three shallow drawers. I probably have 25+ unhandled Hunter and Thompson tools in that drawer. (I don't have that many different tools - many are duplicates, for example I keep six 3/8" spindle gouges sharpened the identically and when one gets dull I swap it with a fresh one rather than stop to sharpen.)

JKJ

[Edward Weingarden]

John:
I'd be interested in getting more info on where you get the pieces of aluminum, do you drill and tap for the set screws, and what are the wall thicknesses of the inserts. Thanks.

Ed

[John K Jordan]

John:
I'd be interested in getting more info on where you get the pieces of aluminum, do you drill and tap for the set screws, and what are the wall thicknesses of the inserts. Thanks.

Ed

I'd have to do some measuring when I get back down to the shop. I buy new steel and aluminum stock from Online Metals, 6061 for aluminum. I've found a lot of useful metal at the local metals recycling place.

I chuck up a cylindrical chunk of aluminum, drill the center hole (a bit oversized), turn down the back end that is glued into the handle (also cutting some grooves so the epoxy will hold better), flip the chunk in the chuck and hold by the back end, then turn the exposed part to suit. I use skew, spindle gouges, etc. Then I use a v-block on a drill press to drill two holes for the set screws then tap.

I make most of them from aluminum. For the smaller tools such as those with 1/4" shafts I like the diameter smaller so I use steel instead of aluminum. Since the metal between the OD and the ID is thinner for a small insert there are not as many screw threads so I figure fewer threads in steel will hold better than in aluminum. But I could just as easily make the OD a bit larger or use set screws with finer threads. It's not like the screws need to be tightened by gorilla!

If you live near come visit and we can make one.

JKJ

[Edward Weingarden]

John:
Thanks for the info and invite. I don't live too close (CT), but tour different parts of the country via motorcycle from time to time. If I plan to be in your area in the future, I'll check on your availability.

Ed

[John K Jordan]

John:
I'd be interested in getting more info on where you get the pieces of aluminum, do you drill and tap for the set screws, and what are the wall thicknesses of the inserts.

I'd have to do some measuring when I get back down to the shop.

Ed, I measured a few.

This one is a spare in the drawer.

395728

Material: ALUMINUM
Length of exposed part: 15/16"
OD: ~3/4"
ID (hole drilled for the tool shaft): 3/8+"
Wall thickness for set screws: ~3/16"
Total length including part glued in handle: 2"
OD of part glued in handle: ~5/8", ~1/8" wall

I didn't measure the set screw diameter and threads, let me know if you want to make any and I can check them. 3/16" wall thickness is fairly thin but I think it is plenty strong enough even in aluminum. However I do grind the bottom off the set screws to make them shorter. Looking at the inserts I measured it looks like I might always make the wall thickness about 3/16".

I measured a few inserts mounted in handles, some I made, two I bought. (All I've seen for sale were made with 1" OD.)

#6 STEEL: 3/4" OD, 3/8+" ID, 3/16" wall
Note: I offset the center hole a little to allow a bit more wall thickness for set screw

#8 BRASS: 1" OD, 5/8" ID, 3/16" wall

#4 ALUMINUM: 1" OD, 3/8+" ID, 5/16-" wall
Note: this one I bought, OD is too big for my liking

#3 ALUMINUM: 1" OD, 1/4+" ID, 3/8-" walll
Note: this one I bought is WAY too big for a 1/4" tool!

395729

I have also accumulated a number of handles made to use set screws to hold the tool. Some have just one set screw - I don't like those.

You're most welcome to visit! I've had visitors from three states recently who stopped for a shop visit when passing through.

JKJ

[Edward Weingarden]

John:
Thanks for all of the very complete info.

Ed

[Jason Edwards]

I have one of the Robust handles and .... often times I have to disassemble the whole thing to remove the gouge, i.e., there is not slip in/slip out. I may be doing something wrong. But I like the feel.

In the video on the Robust website about the handles, Brent shows that you just tap the end of the handle on your work bench while holding the handle vertically and the collet releases. That's what I do too. Works good.