cermark spray vs. paste?

[Trevor Bittinger]

Curious if anyone has used both Cermark spray vs. paste
Have a preference?
Any pros/cons to either?

[John Lifer]

NO, paste only. Do a search and you can see a lot of comments. But on other sites, a LOT of folks have issues if you let the spray sit without use for a while, clogs badly. And per area, way more expensive.
It is way easy to mix up a batch (I do small amounts at a time) with some DNA and spread with a foam brush. I've been using 6000 lately and it spreads out really well with good coverage. And engraves Flatter for me.
I used LMM14 for a year, works great, can be a bit streaky once applied, but it doesn't show it once engraved. (as long as there is some coverage over the surface). BUT you are single use on foam brush, 14 will eat it.
I used a small acid brush to apply it. On a very large surface I would have gone to foam brush.

[Tim Bateson]

I use both, but prefer paste with a brush. It's fast, efficient, and seems to go a LOT further than the spray.

[Trevor Bittinger]

Thanks guys. I had already ordered some spray to give it a shot right before I posted this, so decided to test it out and give it a go on some steel. First spray application went fine, but then a few hours later, tried it again and it got stuck and ended up spraying/emptying itself all over the place. I've requested a refund from Johnson Plastics and will be using the paste only from here on out. Thanks again for your helpful replies.
I had my settings at 600dpi, 25s, 100p and it still didn't mark it as super black. I'm using a 40watt C02 laser.
396043396044

[Kev Williams]

for all you guys/gals who've used or still use spray cans, don't throw 'em away, as there's sometimes LOTS of Cermark still sitting in the bottom! Poke a hole in the top of the can to release the pressure, then hacksaw the can in half about 1/3 the way down the can. In the bottom you'll find the leftovers-- scoop it out and mix it with denatured alcohol until it's thin enough to brush. I've gotten as much as 3oz of re-mixed from an 'empty' can! I typically generate $400 or so per ounce of premix, so it's worth going after!

(And I would be for carefully scraping all that Cermark off that cardboard into a storage bucket too!)

[Trey Tull]

If you don't need to handle the part too much after you coat it with cermark, then try the LMM14. I use it exclusively now and won't go back to the LMM6000. I get 99.9% out of the can, the tip won't clog from non use and it makes just as black of a mark. Just be careful b/c if you touch it, it will come off.

Also.....Welcome back Kev.

[Kev Williams]

I'm not gone, just whacking my online time down a ton ;) (it's helped!)

[Tim Bateson]

...
I had my settings at 600dpi, 25s, 100p and it still didn't mark it as super black. I'm using a 40watt C02 laser.

You may want to try picking up that Speed to around 35-40. Believe it or not, overpowering can look as faint/light as under powering.

[Kev Williams]

Problem might be your lens.
The top line on this plate was done with my new-to-me (3-ish year old) LS100 Gravograph 35w laser...
396523
It's gray, the other 3 lines are black... Lines 2 and 4 were done with my LS900 40w laser,
line 3 was done with the LS100 using the LS900 lens, no other changes. It's black...

Not shown on this piece, I put the LS100 lens in the LS900, and got gray Cermark, with no other changes.

Strictly a lens issue. I'm currently waiting on new 'test' lenses.