Better sub-base for Porter Cable compact router?

[Jason White]

I just bought a Porter Cable 450 compact router (similar to the DeWalt DWP611 router) that was super on sale at Menards. Nice machine, but I want to get a bigger sub-base for it. Not impressed with a lot of the pre-drilled options out there. Eagle has some blanks that you drill yourself, but the smallest one is 6" in diameter, which is a little too big. Was hoping to order one from Pat Warner, but I only recently learned he died last year.

Anybody have one they love? And if I want to try and make one myself, what's the best clear material to make it out of?

Jason

[Ken Kortge]

Jason, have you seen this Rocker base with handles?
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-compact-router-sub-base-with-handles

I have not used it yet, but it is on my wish list.

[Jamie Buxton]

Can't you buy one that's too big for you, and trim it down? Plastic cuts easily with wood tools.

[Doug Garson]

Can't you buy one that's too big for you, and trim it down? Plastic cuts easily with wood tools.
Or go to a plastics supply store and pick up a piece of acrylic or plexiglass from the offcuts bin for a few bucks and make your own.

[Nick Decker]

If you make one yourself, use thick plastic, at least 3/8". One of the advantages of Pat Warner's bases were that they were thick enough to not flex.

[johnny means]

I just made several router plates from 1/2" solid phenolic. IMO, once you figure out the hole layout, it's just too easy to make one real quick for whatever unique situation comes along.

[George Bokros]

I made an offset base for my DeWalt 611 from plastic. The only thing I could not do since I do not have the buffer is polish the edge. I got the plastic at McMaster Carr if memory serves.

[Curt Harms]

I just made several router plates from 1/2" solid phenolic. IMO, once you figure out the hole layout, it's just too easy to make one real quick for whatever unique situation comes along.

Easy way to figure out the hole layout - use a centering (VIX) bit to drill starter holes using the original sub base for the pattern. I also learned to drill small through holes then counterbore - not countersink - holes slightly larger than the screw heads that hold the sub base to the metal base. Then drill through holes slightly larger than the screws. That way if the using a P-C style bushing there's a little adjustment to be able to center the bushing over the bit. I haven't had a noticeable issue with the sub base moving due to oversized holes once it's tightened securely. Attach the blank to the plunge base and install a V bit. Make a small mark with the V bit, drill a small thru hole then bore with a Forstner style bits. If memory serves, a 1 3/8" counter bore and 1 3/16" thru hole will fit a P-C style bushing.

[johnny means]

+1 on what Curt said.