Bow Tie Keys

[Ed Gibbons]

Any suggestions as to the best way to make bow tie keys? I just made a practice one and it didn’t come out too well. Is it worth getting the template from Rockler?

[johnny means]

What went wrong?

[Ed Gibbons]

Routing out the mortise came out sloppy. Did it free hand as was done on several YouTube tutorials.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I make the bow tie first, adjust it in place an scribe the piece onto the surface with a knife. Because of my eyesight, I also make sure to fill the kerf with a fine tip felt pen.
I also use a trim router to cut the majority of the waste, but keep well clear of the line.
I then finish up with a chisel.
Not always perfect, but I'm still practicing, and getting better.

[glenn bradley]

Aaron's got the process well described. The key can be bandsawn, scrollsawn, fretsawn or whatever method you use for that sort of work. If you don't yet have a method, a router template will be fast and accurate. The kits with the template collar, alignment pin, bit and ring-spacer are pretty fool proof.

[Matt Day]

Aaron describes the technique nicely.

Take light cuts with the router and it will be easier to control.

[Jim Becker]

Aaron absolutely has the technique described. The router is only to remove the majority of the waste...the rest must be done by hand. While the template(s) can make things a little easier, you're limited to specific sizes and aspect ratios which may not be the best for a given project. Doing these inlays with "manual" refinement allows you complete flexibility...and the same technique applies to any shape you might want to sink into the surface, not just "bowties".

[Tom Bender]

The first one you make will look like the first one you made.

practice, practice practice

[Neil Gaskin]

I think the most important part is practice. If you do a few for practice you will develop a method that works well for you. I do not proclaim to be an expert but I'll describe my process below.

I'm not a fan of the bow-tie jig because I think they look to "machine made". If you are serious about wanting a jig though, let me know, I have one I bought and don't think I will use it again. I'd be happy to cut you a good deal.

Cut the bow-tie out of what ever stock you plan to use.

Use a sharp chisel or other method to give a very slight taper on the sides from bottom to the top.

Trace it on to the area or use a marking knife to outline your perimeter.

I use a laminate trim router with a plunge base and a 1/4" up-cut spiral bit to remove most of the waste free hand, staying 1/16-1/18 outside of the lines. Depending on the depth of the tie you might need to do this in several lifts.

Back to the sharp chisel to clean up to the line. I've found starting the chisel just inside the line works best. When you start the chisel right on the mark it will naturally expand the opening a bit.

Drive the bow-tie into the void and leave it proud to plane down later after the glue sets up.

[Prashun Patel]

Mlcs makes a template, bushing, and router bit kit that does it perfectly.

[Brian Nguyen]

Any slight imperfection can be expertly hidden by a mix of glue and the chips/dusts from routing ;)

[JERRY BRINKMAN]

Who is Mics

[Doug Garson]

As Neil said above, one of the keys is to taper the bowtie slightly. Otherwise you need a perfect fit between the bowtie and the cut out for it. The other key, as several have said is practice.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Who is Mics

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ I especially like their Katana series of bits.

[Ed Gibbons]

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ I especially like their Katana series of bits.

Looks good. What is the trick when starting the cut for the inlay? That looks like the most difficult part.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ed I haven't used their inlay kits but I have bought and used their Katana router bits. Here's link on how to use their inlay kit: https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_inlay.html#inlay_patterns_anchor Go to the top of the page and select Video...then watch it.

[Roger Feeley]

Looks good. What is the trick when starting the cut for the inlay? That looks like the most difficult part.

You would use a plunge router. Remember to really hug that template because if you stray from the template, you are eating into the key, not the waste. For myself, I wouldn't cut quite all the way through. Leave a 32nd or so and cut the last bit with a knife and sand it away. Also remember to fashion a handle to remove the key for the fitting process. You don't want it getting stuck. Then you would have to either poke it from behind or use an x-acto to pry it out. You might make a little handle and hot melt glue it to the key. You're going to make the key a little proud anyway so any residual glue will get sanded off.

[Prashun Patel]

MLCS Woodworking. There are other brands. I used to use this one.

[Michelle Rich]

you can easily make your own templates out of ply or MDF..you can therefore make any shape and any size. Use the kits available with the brass bushings, 1/8th bit, etc. Works perfectly.

[glenn bradley]

Who is Mics

MLCS (https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/), but, like any product, there are varying levels of quality (https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-9500-Solid/dp/B0012JI6HM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540557464&sr=8-2&keywords=whiteside+inlay+kit).

[Chris Fournier]

I made up my own templates in various sizes for the keys and the mortises, simple task. Perfection every time.