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View Full Version : 30" dovetail ????



Jim Colombo
10-23-2018, 2:13 PM
I need to join 2 pieces of wood in an L configuration. One piece is 7' x 30" x 3/4" and the other is 5' x 30" x 3/4".

I was thinking of putting a 30" dovetail to hold the adjoining faces but I'm really skeptical about doing that.

Has anyone tried such a long dovetail? I thought of a turnbuckle underneath but think the forces might cause the bottom to be so tight as to pull the top apart.

Any other suggestions?

Jim

Andrew Seemann
10-23-2018, 3:18 PM
What are you making? That seems like a rather difficult dovetail to do, especially if you can't do it all in one day and the wood starts to move. Hopefully some other joint would be easier and strong enough. A box joint on a table saw would be easier and as strong, probably stronger.

I remember Frank Klaus talking about dovetailing packing crates growing up in Hungary because nails were expensive, but crates wouldn't be done at furniture quality level.

If you did have to dovetail it, maybe space out the pins so you don't need to cut and fit so many. The more pins you make, the more you need to fine fit and the tighter it will be to glue up.

Jim Colombo
10-23-2018, 3:27 PM
I don't have to dovetail, it was just thought and I wasn't thinking of dovetails, I was thinking of one long dovetail along the 30" joining faces.

Jay Jolliffe
10-23-2018, 4:14 PM
If you have a router & a slot cutting bit you could use a spline.

Jamie Buxton
10-23-2018, 11:59 PM
I'm not understanding. You're joining two wide tops at ninety degrees, with a long miter between them, right? Are you thinking about running the tails and pins at right angles to that miter line? If so, there's going to a whole lot of short cross-grain bits. The joint will be difficult to cut, and may break along those short-grain lines.

One very good way to do what you're doing is a joint connector like this -- http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=71046&cat=3,43586,43588. They're quick to build, and easy to install in place.

johnny means
10-24-2018, 1:06 AM
Google "sliding dovetail". I say no because the outside corner on the slotted piece ends up very fragile.

Matt Day
10-24-2018, 8:26 AM
If you could tell us more about the project it might help. Is this a project where putting a 2x2 on the inside corner and glue and screw is acceptable? Or is that not appropriate?

At 7’ and 5’, those are some long arms that can put some serious torque on a single dovetail.

Mark Hennebury
10-24-2018, 8:41 AM
395398

This is what happens when 30" of wood swells or shrinks in a mitre.

Dave Richards
10-24-2018, 10:20 AM
Since you are talking about a 30" long joint, you must not be planning a miter, correct? I'm guessing you are thinking a sliding dovetail like this. (https://flic.kr/p/Qf1Yd1) As Johnny Means says, the joint would be fragile so you'd need to be able to support the pieces well and not put stress on the joint. Assuming you can deal with that, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Leave the socket slightly shorter than the 30 inches and cut the tail back an inch or so more so the tailboard can move with seasonal humidity changes and not reveal the joint. No glue except for maybe an inch or so at the outside end of the joint. Like so (https://flic.kr/p/2aZ91fF). I might even wax the rest of the joint to make it easier to slide the joint together.

Jim Colombo
10-24-2018, 10:51 AM
Thanks Jamie !!!! They would do the job perfectly..

Jim

Jim Colombo
10-24-2018, 10:56 AM
You have pictured it perfectly, Dave. The boards are would be sitting on 3 cabinets, so there is plenty of vertical support.

Jim

Dave Richards
10-24-2018, 11:02 AM
Jamie's connectors would be easier but where's the challenge? Go for the sliding dovetail. :D

Frank Pratt
10-24-2018, 12:46 PM
Those bolts in conjunction with biscuits or dominoes & some epoxy would make for a very strong & easy joint.

Jim Colombo
10-24-2018, 1:16 PM
Looking at Jamie's connectors the smallest would need a 1/2" deep hole. That would only leave 1/4" on the top. I'm afraid that would be a fragile top.

Jim

Dave Richards
10-24-2018, 6:29 PM
Jim, although it would only be 1/4 in. thick where the holes are, I doubt that would cause you any difficulty. The diameter isn't that great and you'd only need a few of them.

Roger Feeley
10-24-2018, 8:14 PM
How about dovetail splines. The jig would be easy to make. Just make and glue a simple miter joint and then go back and cut the splines with a dovetail bit. A lot of people won’t realize it’s not a dovetail.

Dave Richards
10-25-2018, 8:44 AM
How about dovetail splines. The jig would be easy to make. Just make and glue a simple miter joint and then go back and cut the splines with a dovetail bit. A lot of people won’t realize it’s not a dovetail.

So now I'm curious about this. How does this work on an L-shaped cabinet top such as Jim is talking about? He's said he isn't mitering the corner. It's just one piece running past the other but both are rectangular.

Martin Wasner
10-25-2018, 10:57 AM
I've done this numerous times with solid wood. Including the desk in my office. Four of those toggle bolts, (wrong term), a handful of dominos that are tight on one side, loose on the other. Except the first one is tight. No glue except on the tight fitting dominos

It's not ever going to be flawless smooth joint, even if you sand them joined. Finish will lay down differently and pucker a bit on the sharp corner.

You'll want to finish everything to keep the moisture level as consistent as possible. Hit the face of the joint as well.

Crank those bolts up tight and only screw the top down on the front of the cabinet. Let the back edge float.

Roger Feeley
10-25-2018, 3:01 PM
So now I'm curious about this. How does this work on an L-shaped cabinet top such as Jim is talking about? He's said he isn't mitering the corner. It's just one piece running past the other but both are rectangular.

Dave, I'm assuming that Jim would change the joint to a miter and then use the splines for strength. If the point is to make it look 'dovetail-ish', dovetail splines would accomplish that.

Dave Richards
10-25-2018, 9:40 PM
Dave, I'm assuming that Jim would change the joint to a miter and then use the splines for strength. If the point is to make it look 'dovetail-ish', dovetail splines would accomplish that.

Sorry. I must be missing something. Jim was talking about joining two pieces as on the left using a sliding dovetail joint between them. Are you suggesting he miter the joint as on the right and use butterfly or bowtie keys?
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