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Mike Becker
11-28-2005, 11:26 AM
As a new member of the forum I figure it's time for me to share some of my woodworking related experiences. This one is for a fairly decent cyclone-based dust collection system using a GMA 6" cyclone, which can be found here www.cycloneseparator.com (http://www.cycloneseparator.com)

Before proceeding with this cyclone project I was using a PSI DC2000 single-stage dust collector with one of their 1-micron cannister filters mounted in place of the top bag. This system worked well but only briefly - once the filter became coated with dust the machine's suction went away and cranking on the filter's clean-out handle did little good. A cyclone-based system was needed, no question about it. So why didn't I start with a cyclone to begin with - one good reason, my shop measures only 10'x11'x8' high (really!). And since I have just about every major tool needed for woodworking hidden somewhere in the building, spare room is at a premium. In the end though, I ended up with MORE available room with the cyclone system!!! Yeah, I can't believe it either...

OK, to begin the project I stripped down the DC2000 as I wanted to use it's base and blower in the same way Dizzy did with his cyclone, which can be found here:

dizzy's Cyclone Project
http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/cyclone.html

Once the DC2000 was apart I turned my attention to a post here on the forum by Andy Howard:

VERY LONG Cyclone Separator Review (dc to cyclone conversion) - Sawmill Creek
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22907

After reading and rereading Andy's post several times as well as every other cyclone-related post I could find (thanks Mr. Pentz!) plus emailing Allan Johanson with all of my DC/cyclone questions (thanks again Allan) I ordered the GMA cyclone and made the same mods to mine as Andy did to his, with one addition, I added the air ramp. I won't go into details on the method I used to mount the blower to the cyclone but will respond to anyone that may be interested. I do have images...

As for mounting the air ramp, it wasn't that hard. The hardest part was getting myself to forget about making it perfect and to just "go with the flow". I soldered the ramp where it touches the top and bottom of the inlet pipe as well as at any place it touched the outside wall of the cylinder. There weren't many places, just enough to add some rigidity to the ramp. What REALLY makes it rigid is the polyurethane caulk I used to seal the ramp along it's outside edge. When the caulking cured, the ramp became very rigid.

It's inside edge I didn't even worry about sealing as the air's speed should be very low at that point (as per Bill Pentz) and since the cyclone's top cover will seal that area above the ramp, I saw no need for worry. To make clearance for the air outlet pipe (I stayed with the stock 7" air outlet) I first flattened the air inlet pipe just enough to allow for the outlet to clear it then, while using tin snips, I removed any part of the air ramp that prevented the outlet from sliding inside it. Just watch out for those very sharp edges - they bite!!!!

For a filter I ordered a Wynn Env. 9E300BL, a filter with one end sealed so it could be mount it inside a box, which is what was needed for safety reasons. Since I have little room to maneuver things around, the filter getting struck was a real possibility if left exposed! In the attached image I have the filter being fed with the OEM 5" hose which has since been replaced with a 6" hose. Also, I use 6" S&D PVC pipe for the two branches, one of which is just for my jointer while the other is used with the TS, planer and whatever other machine needing dust collection. I have 6" hose going to those machines too with nothing being reduced! The blast gates are homemade and can be found here:

Building a Dust Collection Blast Gate
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/BlastGate/blastgatebuilding.html

How does it work? Well, very well indeed! With one trash bin (30-gallon can) being filled I pulled the cover off of the filter enclosure to have a peek inside and was surprised to see very little dust. I then removed the filter, tapped it on the bench to see what would have fallen out of it and ended up seeing nothing. In the dust bin there was a mix of chips and talcum powder-like dust. Yeah, it does seem to work.

Guys, sometimes we just cannot make use of the "best" available, in those cases we most make use of what will work well for us, me using a GMA cyclone is one of those times - I don't have room for a Pentz-designed cyclone but this one does indeed work. But don't forget the mods that Andy and I have done to make them work as well as they do! To be honest, I have no idea as to how well the original, unmodified, cyclone works. All I know is what I have in front of me and mine does work well. I would recommend this cyclone to anyone, as long as the mods are made to it first. I have no idea how it will work without these mods...

FYI - here is what my setup looks like. The filter is located inside the brown box to the right of the cyclone:

26645

Well, that's it. It's up and running and working well. I want to thank the sys-ops and admins for brewing up such a fine and sane place for info exchange for we woodworkers. Thank you too for all of the unnamed people that have helped unknowingly with my cyclone project. I did a lot of research before starting it.

Mike

Jeff Sudmeier
11-28-2005, 11:52 AM
Mike welcome to the site! You have joined a great one.

Great job on your cyclone!!

Is there any way you can re-run that 90 that comes off of the y off of the inlet? It just looks like a real power loss there. Other than that, it looks wonderful!

Mike Becker
11-28-2005, 12:48 PM
Hi Jeff,

Nope! Due to the lack of available space for the cyclone project, the 90 degree elbow is necessary. The ducting layout was done this way for a reason, even the behind the cyclone bit. I wanted to make use of every bit of space I could for the ducting. And since the jointer is the least needy of all my tools, it was it's branch the 90 degree el was used.

Thanks for the warm welcome to the forum Jeff. Now it's time for me to get back to hanging the Christmas lights! No woodwroking today for me...damn...

I forgot to mention in my original post, in case someone isn't familiar with the PSI DC2000 DC, it is a 2HP/12" impeller collector.

Mike

Chris Padilla
11-28-2005, 12:57 PM
Nice job, Mike! I built a Pentz design one (maybe you ran across my extensive thread?) and although the DC is up and running, I have yet to install the ductwork. I figure with the overkill I did with building a Pentz design to begin with, I can do some inefficient routing as you did and still come out ahead.

How is the PVC working out? I think I've finally decided to go the plastic route over metal...just need to figure out where I need to run everything....

Do you have more pics of your DC network? :)

Jim Becker
11-28-2005, 2:01 PM
Welcome to SMC, Mike. Nice to have another fellow Pennsylvanian on-board, not to mention one with a very attractive last name! LOL!

Mike Becker
11-28-2005, 3:25 PM
Hi Guys,

Last things first:

Jim, our last name, yep, I like it too! Up here in Carbon County there's a bunch of us with that same last name - a lot of them my brothers!

Chris, as for the PVC pipe, I have no complaints. Before building the cyclone I had 4" S&D PVC up and running which I thought was a good thing. But once I found Bill Pentz site, well, let's just say it was a real eye opener.

One thing you must realize, me using plastic was strickly to save money. I'm disabled and do not have the money to make use of metal ducting even for the very short runs used in my little shop -- PVC is a lot cheaper then metal! It doesn't hurt to have a plastic pipe vendor within an hour's ride of our home either...

More images of my DC network - hmmm, not really. Actually there is nothing to show as most of my ducting is shown in my cyclone image. Don't forget my shop is only 10'x11' in size so there won't be a lot of pipe. You can see the lateral coming off the cyclone with the straight leg going another 4 feet to a blast gate. This is where my tablesaw, planer, bandsaw, etc is hooked into the system. The branch dropping down from the lateral (the one with the 90 degree elbow) runs behind the cyclone and along side the shop to a length of flex hose. This hose is connected to my jointer thrue another blast gate. Since I must be able to move my tools around, the flex hose is a must! FYI - The jointer doesn't require the massive air flow of the other tools so I made use of the 90 degreel el to save valuable space.

Chris, one thing I found with the PVC to be of value is the way the fittings actually lock together. No, there are no gaskets on the PVC I have but the fittings seem to be tapered slightly, thus allowing for a "quick disconnect" type of setup. I use this Q-D ability on the TS branch since I must swap tools so often. My blast gates are made with short lengths of pipe onto which a coupler with a hose attached is slide on and a single #6x3/8" sheet metal screw is used to lock it into place. On the Q-D side of the gate I don't use tape.

Another thing, if you do use PVC, run a single #6x3/8" sheet metal screw at every joint to lock everything together. Also don't forget to use aluminum tape at every joint to seal off any leaks.

To mate the PVC to the hose is actually pretty easy - if you use the clear 6" hose Grizzly sells and you happen to have the same make of pipe I have. The hose can be attached directly to any of the PVC fittings. All that's needed is to wipe on a bit of WD40 on the inside of the fitting and around the outside of the hose, once this is done the hose can be made to slide right into the fitting. Once the hose is slid in as far as it can go, I then drilled 4 - 1/4" holes thrue the coupler/fitting and hose 90 degrees apart. I ran a 1/4"x1" bolt into each holes from the inside and using a flat washer, a star-type lock washer and finally a nut, I tightened them all into place. By using the 1-inch long bolts I have something to tap against if need be to loosen the connection at the blast gate.

So far this has been working well for me Chris. But it means a certain make hose must be used. I have also used the PSI 6" CVD hose with the same mounting technique but found the PVC fittings had to be heated (softened) to allow for the much heavier hose to slide in. WD40 is required here too.

Hope some of this is of use to you Chris. Go with 6" Sewer & Drain (S&D) PVC pipe, I know you'll like it.

Mike

John Bailey
11-28-2005, 6:47 PM
Mike,

Welcome to the "Creek," the best place to be. I'm sure we'd love to see the rest of your shop. Often the smaller shops are of great interest because of the efficiency that is required. Some of the techniques you use may be helpful to some of us with bigger (mine's 20x20) shops, and we always like pictures.

John

Allan Johanson
11-29-2005, 5:36 PM
Hi Mike,

You say you are disabled, but to me you're amazing, getting more done than I do in any given day!

I'm glad the system is working out for you and I hope you can now focus on more WW projects instead of this boring shop stuff. Your wife might appreciate that. ;)

Keep up the great work, Mike.

Allan

Mike Becker
11-30-2005, 9:48 AM
Thanks for the kind words Allan.

For me being deemed "disabled" took some getting use to. I was very active all of my life until the 1990s when it all went to hell. But I was determined to be of some use to my wife and family and to stay sane at the same time...that latter one is tough at times. That's why I took up woodworking...

To be honest, there are times when I run on sheer "bullheadedness" to complete a project at a time when my body is telling me something entirely different :-) It can be a real balancing act...

I just can't let "it" win...

Mike