Round over cast iron?

[Larry Edgerton]

Best and neatest way to round over cast iron? My scmi Jointer is a long bed, but I often do long stock and when I tip it down at the end I get a mark on the wood from the square edge. I want to round it over but an fussy about looks so not into the grinder so much. Could do it with a file, but I am lazy. Ideas?

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Best and neatest way to round over cast iron? My scmi Jointer is a long bed, but I often do long stock and when I tip it down at the end I get a mark on the wood from the square edge. I want to round it over but an fussy about looks so not into the grinder so much. Could do it with a file, but I am lazy. Ideas?

What about to use a grinder but not with so aggressive disks? I would look to use with it a sanding disk 80 or 100 grit...

[Jacob Reverb]

Don't know how big a radius you want to put on it, but a file should take it down pretty fast, and easier to get even and straight than a grinder, unless you fashion some jig...

I did the same thing to relieve the hard corners of my cast iron tablesaw wings where they join the (chamfered) front of the main table, and it went a lot quicker with a MB file than I'd expected.

[Mike Kees]

I ease edges on pretty well all of my cast iron tops on machines with a file. I use a fine one ,all you need is a slight rounding . Mike

[Frederick Skelly]

I'd use a file, because it's controllable. But if you want a larger radius or if you just don't WANT to file it, what about trying an ROS? Should be a little more controllable than a grinder (slower), though you'll still likely have some "clean up" with a file or emory paper.

If you think about it, how about posting a few pics after you're done and describe what you decided to do? It would be good info to have.

Good luck!
Fred

[Joe Calhoon]

Larry,
I remember a post where Mark Hennebury used a router to cut a hole in a cast iron Maka. Seems like a router with a small round over bit might work. I accidentally put a small chamfer on a cast shaper sliding table once with a cutter too close.
Dont want to talk about that but it cut like butter:eek:

[Frederick Skelly]

Larry,
I remember a post where Mark Hennebury used a router to cut a hole in a cast iron Maka. Seems like a router with a small round over bit might work. I accidentally put a small chamfer on a cast shaper sliding table once with a cutter too close.
Dont want to talk about that but it cut like butter:eek:

I guess you'd need a carbide bit for that Joe? Any idea of what speed to use? Small, light passes? (Sorry. I don't have much metalworking knowledge.)

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi, Cast iron cuts pretty easy with a router. just set the router to the slowest speed and take small cuts, you will get the feel of it. Carbide tipped bit of course, and go slow. and goggles.

[Peter Christensen]

Larry you would have been done with a file in the time it took to create this thread. Sandpaper and a sanding block is a messier second way to do it.

[johnny means]

Please be sure to post the video when you rout that cast iron:rolleyes:

[johnny means]

https://www.youtube.cUrz57RVC15Aom/watch?v=

[Warren Lake]

get some proper support, if your board can pass then you have room for a temp support. In the beginning I had to joint 8" wide 2" hard maple on an 8" general jointer, that is when you learn your jointer is just a toy. those boards could almost tip that machine over. To not have support at that point was just plain stupid. I use rollers now or an adjustable stand with Melmine

All my machine edges are hand filed. The factory didnt have time on most of them and they are crude and not enough. Find hand filing that material simple and easy and enjoyable. Do have a friend who has machined lots of aluminum with routers and see what Mark says making sense.

[Jim Morgan]

https://www.youtube.cUrz57RVC15Aom/watch?v=

? Link does not work.

[glenn bradley]

I think you've caught the drift. Cast iron is much more malleable than one might think. A file will cut easily and be controllable.

[Bruce Page]

Use a file. You could have it done in not much more time than it takes to post & read this thread.

[Jim Becker]

A file and a sander will do the job putting a small round-over on that edge fairly quickly.

[johnny means]

https://youtu.be/Urz57RVC15A

[Bill Dufour]

I think you've caught the drift. Cast iron is much more malleable than one might think. A file will cut easily and be controllable.

CAST IRON IS NOT MALLABLE. there are some expensive ones that are slightly malleable. Any cast iron used in a wood shop should be treated as totally rigid and never try to bend it or pound it to shape it. Glass is far more flexible.

[johnny means]

CAST IRON IS NOT MALLABLE. there are some expensive ones that are slightly malleable. Any cast iron used in a wood shop should be treated as totally rigid and never try to bend it or pound it to shape it. Glass is far more flexible.

I don't he was using "malleable" in the metallurgical sense.

[Larry Edgerton]

Did it with an old 3/8" router bit in a few passes. Worked well. Thanks, y'all..........

[Bill Space]

Did it with an old 3/8" router bit in a few passes. Worked well. Thanks, y'all..........

Could not help but think of a quote I see posted so many times...

”No picture? It didn’t happen!” :)

[Bill Dufour]

I don't he was using "malleable" in the metallurgical sense.

I was worried someone in the future might find this link and think he meant it could be cold forged like steel. I have never heard it used in any meaning other then it can be bent by force. Like public opinion.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have never heard it used in any meaning other then it can be bent by force. Like public opinion.

I'm no metallurgist, but I hadn't either Bill.

[Jacob Reverb]

I have c-clamps made of malleable iron. I think what they mean is that it will bend pretty far before it breaks. Something about the grain structure and particles of carbon (graphite?) in the matrix, maybe...?

[Bill Dufour]

I think the old threaded sewer coupling some were just regular cast iron some are malleable iron. The cast iron ones break with a sledge hammer. the malleable have to be cut apart to replumb.
I have no idea where meehanite castings fit in.
Bill D.

[Jeff Duncan]

HSS drill bits cut into cast iron pretty easily.... may not need to use a carbide bit if you already have hss on hand? Just a thought....

good luck,
JeffD

[Bill Adamsen]

https://youtu.be/Urz57RVC15A
Impressive!

[glenn bradley]

I don't he was using "malleable" in the metallurgical sense.

Thanks Johnny, sorry Bill, I probably should have said “softer than you think”.

[Roger Feeley]

Back in the day, I was taught to never, never, never use oil when cutting cast iron. Something about making it hard. I've never done it and cast iron always drilled great for me. +1 about dialing the speed down as far as you can and doing light cuts with carbide tooling. The tool shouldn't catch. Cast iron just sort of turns to powder when it cuts.

But do consider taking measures to control the dust. It can get into things and it wouldn't be too good for bearings and stuff. Try to connect a shop vac to the router.

[Tom Bender]

Files had always seemed kinda useless till I discovered a coarse file.

[Peter Quinn]

Did it with an old 3/8" router bit in a few passes. Worked well. Thanks, y'all..........


Make sparks?

[Roger Feeley]

Here's a thread on PracticalMachinist forum about routing cast iron. Loads of good information by people that have done it.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/woodworking-and-woodworking-machinery/milling-cast-iron-hand-held-router-276910/