Restoring redwood burl live edge slab table

[Zac wingert]

I recently acquired a redwood burl live edge slab coffe table. It’s about 72” long. When I got it, the top was stripped of any finish but in horrible condition. That’s not a problem, an after noon with my belt and ROS sanders have it in good order. The burl and grain pattern on the top is awesome, not disappointed as I really couldn’t tell what I was working with until it was sanded.

what I am having a hard time with is stripping the sides of the tabletop and the base.
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I started romoving some some of the old finish and weathered wood with my deemed and also with a wire brush made to be used on an electric drill. It’s slow work, and the wire of course leaves marks in the soft redwood. Is there a better way to do this? The old finish was done real poorly with huge globs of what appear to be epoxy. A lot of it can just be peeled off.

second question is the big hole in the top.

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Its going to to be very hard to clean it out. I was thinking of filling it with epoxy colored with dye or pigment, probably orange. Any thoughts.

I know this could could probably go in the finishing forum but I posted here because the reason for my concern is I want to sell it for a profit. Not a huge profit, but this is a hobby for me and if I was set on keeping it in my own house I probably wouldn’t worry so much and wouldn’t epoxy the hole as I don’t really like that look. Any insight? I’m thinking filling with epoxy is all the craze and would probably make it a lot easier to sell with a shiny glittery element to it. Thanks

[Bill Dufour]

It is probably epoxy as that was the rage in the 1970's. At least in California. Can you say decoupage. Can epoxy be dissolved by acetone or something?
Bill D

[Zac wingert]

It is probably epoxy as that was the rage in the 1970's. At least in California. Can you say decoupage. Can epoxy be dissolved by acetone or something?
Bill D
I’d like to know too.

[Jim Becker]

I wouldn't fill that hole, personally. It's a natural design element.

On the edges, I'd use a chemical stripper to get the majority, if not all, of the existing finish off the edges before using anything mechanical, especially since this is pretty soft material.

[John C Bush]

I have had good results cleaning up live and irregular edges/surfaces using walnut shells in my Harbor Freight sand blaster. Not sure about fully removing epoxy but does leave a consistent "etched" looking patina that covers well with polyurethane, etc. The shell blasting doesn't erode solid wood and cleans up the cambium layer nicely. Worth a try--do it outside!!

[Dan Friedrichs]

Power washer. Seriously.

[Joel Wesseling]

Earlier this year I found a bench made of hemlock. It was outside for 8 years, black and covered with lichen. The power washer cleaned in up really nice. I've sanded it and its now ready for oil.

[lowell holmes]

Show Off!!

[Zac wingert]

Show Off!!
394970 can’t help it.. haha

applied chemical stripper two time on one side. It’s working, but will probably need one more application and pressure wash.

Gonna buy a pressure washer because I’ve been needing one for around the house. Where I live it rains year round and everything outdoor grows mold and moss.

i am looking at at 2800 psi washer. Is there a threshold for too much pressure for this table project? Thanks for all the help.

Also, what is the range of market value for a piece like this? Assuming I do a decent job. Might end up just keeping it but hopefully I can sell it for enough profit to pay for the pressure washer, $300.

[Peter Christensen]

You can easily lower the pressure by getting larger nozzle tips. The bigger hole lowers the tip pressure.

[Jim Becker]

For pressure washing wood, you absolutely want a wide-angle nozzle that greatly reduces the pressure so you don't damage the material. Don't get too close to it, either, as that concentrates the spray. It only takes a split second to do serious damage!

[Dan Friedrichs]

Yes, be careful with the pressure. For what it's worth, I use a pressure washer to de-bark live edge wood, and find that it just does a fantastic job of removing the bark and cambium without touching the natural surface of the sapwood. My pressure washer makes 2300psi (actually measured), and I can't get the nozzle close enough to do undesired damage.