router table options

[jeremy romoser]

Buying my first table saw next week.

Also trying to decide whether or not I should get a router table for the shop. Also a first.
If so, do y'all recommend adding a router table extension as part of the table saw? Or should the router table be a separate, stand-alone unit?

Hoping to start building furniture and trying to acquire the shop tools needed to do so.

Thanks to all that respond.

[Larry Frank]

My 2 cents....

I break down all my sheet goods with a track saw so I got the 36" model. If you have room and do not move it much go with the bigger one.

Build a separate router table.

[jeremy romoser]

Thank you for the response Larry.

[Phil Mueller]

I tend to use more hand tools than power, but either way, you will need to think about how you will prepare stock. Even wood planed and finished from Woodcraft or Rockler, or the like, will need to be jointed and flattened...it’s rare to find wood square and true off the rack. A well set up table saw can joint the edge pretty well. But you need to consider how you will remove twist, cupping, etc. My method is to hand plane one side true, and then run it through a lunch box thickness planer.

With that in mind, I think you would want to skip the router for now, and focus on what equipment/tools you need to flatten/thickness stock.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm with Phil, 40 years into this and I still don't use a router, I do have a shaper however.

Once you can saw material, you'll need material to saw. If you want to just use sheet goods, a table saw is fine, however once you want to use solid wood you'll need a jointer and planer, that's what I would buy before a router table..........Regards, Rod.

[Nick Decker]

It seems that people who put a router table on their table saws are trying to save space in the shop. I'd pass on that, at least for the time being. It's something you can always add to the saw later, if necessary. My guess is that you will end up with a router table of some kind, and having a separate one leaves you with more options about how to go about it.

[Bill Dindner]

Good Luck with the new hobby. As with many things, you learn by experience what works best for you. I started out with a Kreg benchtop Router Table. Eventually I built a stand for it. It was a little small and not very accurate. A few years later I got intrigued by Incra, and picked up the LS positioner system, it’s basically the most expensive router table around. Never used any of the features and it was taking up way too much space. Recently, I sold it and got a cast iron router extension in my table saw, works perfectly for my needs. I don’t need ultimate accuracy and versatility of the Incra and I’m glad to save some shop space.

This is just my experience, perhaps some of it is relevant.

I have the Sawstop Table Saw and Router Table if you have any specific questions.

[Jacob Mac]

Shop space is at a premium for me, so I have a router table on my table saw. I absolutely love it.

With that said, I would personally get a jointer, planer, and bandsaw first.

[Cary Falk]

I am a fan of separate machines. I vote for stand alone router table if you have the room

[Dean Moldenhauer]

I had the same question - and am preparing for purchase of a good cabinet saw. To cut to the chase, I ended up purchasing a stand-alone router table because I have the space in my shop (or will have once I move the tractor out to it's own covered area). Like others have said, and in keeping with the advice I got, incorporating the router into the table saw extension is a great option if you will be struggling for space. The table I got had nice, robust casters on it so I can roll it off to the side. I ended up going with the JessEm offering. The Incra system looks awesome, but look at the forum posts on that system and be prepared for the extra space it takes if you go with the LS system.

Good luck in your search and have fum outfitting and using your shop!

Dean

[Jim Becker]

When space is available, a standalone router table solution has advantages since it doesn't interfere with using the table saw and vice versa at the same time. But there's nothing wrong with a solution that uses the table saw as a platform, either. I use the cast iron Bench Dog setup bolted onto my sliding table saw...a poor man's "shaper" solution...because of space. I originally did have a separate router table setup (two generations of them, as a matter of fact) but as time went on an my work flow, tools and shop evolved, I made the change that made sense for my own situation. I get around any work flow interference in the same way I accommodate using a Jointer/Planer combo...planning.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have a standalone Woodpeckers router table and a 36" SawStop table saw.

I just changed my fence system saw on the table and decided to add the router table onto the saw.

My standalone Woodpeckers router table is the smaller of the two table sizes they offer and I've found it a little small in width capacity if I need to route using the fence.

Adding the router table to the table saw gives me a larger capacity.

I don't think you'll go wrong adding it to the table saw, but depending upon the convenience of the tool operation changer over, going from router to table saw, you might find a standalone router a better choice.

I'm more or a power tool than hand tool hobby woodworker, so I use my router table a lot.

[Mick Simon]

I'm in a similar situation as Jim. I've had standalone routers tables in various shops and they're convenient. As my methods and processes have become more streamlined I've opted to put the router table on the right end of my 36" SS PCS. Most of my sheet breakdown is done with a track saw.

Mine is a hobby shop, but dedicated to woodworking. I've found that shops shrink over time, regardless of the square footage. Time for a second bandsaw? Yep. Bigger compressor? Larger assembly table? Yep... It's very, very rare that I have to change a setup as a result of having the saw/router table combo. More often than not, it's more convenient for me, as I can use the back side of the saw fence as my router guide for operations like a quick dado where the bit doesn't contact the fence. The additional mass of it being one unit is also a plus.

[Mike Monroe]

Don't forget about dust collection. You'll be surprised how fast the sawdust can pile up.

[Ben Rivel]

If there is room, separate, stand alone router table every time IMO! They are usually larger than ones built into the end of a table saw and can offer better dust collection depending on the setup.

[andy bessette]

Have had my router table as part of my principal table saw for decades. Wonderful setup that allows me to use the Unifence with the router also. Built the table from an old cast iron table saw top.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZR0bfb5B/shop-1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Dave Richards]

I'm in the separate pieces camp. Unless space is really tight, I think you'd find it's easier to deal with them as separate.

I'll also give you an alternate idea for the router table. Have a look at the Router Boss. I have one in my shop and wouldn't trade it for anything. Anything I might do on the router table can be done with the Router Boss and more. Since it mounts on the wall, it doesn't take up floor space and it's always ready to go. Don't get me wrong. I like my router table too. It's a great way to use my Porter Cable PC-121 OSS.

[glenn bradley]

My router table is attached to my tablesaw but, not as an extension per se. Both tools enjoy the additional surface for material support. I use the same feed direction for both and have the miter slot to cutter distance matched to I can use jigs interchangeably.

394827

I did the same with my previous saw.

394828

[jeremy romoser]

Too many to list individually so thanks to each of you that responded.
Fortunately space is not an issue for me at the moment. I have a shop that is mostly empty.
Based on the feedback and since I have plenty of room, I am leaning toward a stand alone unit. However, y'all got me thinking that
the router table might not be my 2nd tool purchase.
I intend to buy the 52" 3 hp saw stop TS. However, before opening my mind to the sawstop, I was looking strongly at the grizzly brand.
What do y'all think of grizzly as far as jointers, planers, and/or bandsaws? Any suggestions on which models/brands? It appears that some quality options for each of these tools are available for $500-$1000?
I'd rather not spend more than necessary but don't mind paying a little extra for quality.
Thanks again for all your input. I am looking forward to learning what I can and the experience shared by folks like y'all on these boards is invaluable and appreciated.

[Michael Costa]

I started a thread like this not too long ago. Months of looking. Just Friday, I decided on Rocklers Pro-phenolic table and fence. Was busy this weekend so it's still in the box.

[Cary Falk]

What do y'all think of grizzly as far as jointers, planers, and/or bandsaws? Any suggestions on which models/brands? It appears that some quality options for each of these tools are available for $500-$1000?

I have a Shop Fox 1741 Jointer(retail version of the Grizzly G0490), A Grizzly G0453X 15" spiral head planer, and a Grizzly G0513X2 bandsaw. I am very happy with all of them.