Saw Recommendations - Ripping 8/4 Red Oak

[Eric Schubert]

I'm about to embark on my first major test for building some organization in my shop: a chest of drawers to store my tools. I need several drawers, and figured it would be cheaper (and a good learning experience) to rip the drawer sides, rather than purchase dimensioned lumber. Plus, I have multiple drawer heights. So, dimensioned lumber won't necessarily cut it anyway.

I found a local vendor selling 8/4 slabs of red oak. I plan to rip strips, which I'll then cut to length, flatten/square with hand planes, and cut dovetails to form the drawer sides/fronts/backs. I figured this would be more economical than buying lumber at the proper dimensions to begin with.

I considered cutting these on a table saw, but the one I have (Ryobi job site saw) is pretty much only good for making rough cuts, as it tends to wander from the fence a bit. So, now I'm thinking of ripping them by hand. It'll be a lot more effort. However, there are some benefits to doing it the old-fashioned way: less flying dust, less noise, less annoying my neighbors, honing my sawing skills, and getting some exercise. Maybe it'll be a giant PITA that I'll never want to repeat, but I'm willing to at least give it a try.

So, now I need to find myself a decent rip saw for this task. It doesn't need to be a fancy, high-end, $1k Japanese damascus-style saw or anything. But I need something that will make this task easier than the 8TPI Disston saws that I have laying around. I'm guessing something in the 4TPI range is ideal here, as it's 8/4 lumber, but I'm open to ideas and suggestions around TPI, as well as eastern vs. western saws. Or anything other suggestions people have, really. I just want something that will work and not kill me in the process.

Any suggestions for a reasonably-priced rip saw? Any advice for someone taking on this task for the first time?

[Rob Luter]

You’re resawing? I’d recommend a band saw owned by someone else. Say a cabinet shop. Then a couple of passes through their planer or wide belt sander. I love hand work as much as the next guy, but resawing 8/4 Oak is like digging a pool with a spade.

[Tony Wilkins]

I echo what Rob said. If you really want the hand tool route, I would recommend either a Roubo frame saw kit (not sure what they go for as kits these days but you could buy a bandsaw for what Bad Axe charges) or a 300mm Ryoba Japanese saw. Another option would be a vintage rip saw paired with an aquaintence with a strong arm and weak mind.

[James Waldron]

I work in 8/4 stock a lot. I go with a 4 1/2 tpi hand saw from Thomas Flinn. (I'd go with a 4 or 3 1/2 tpi saw but I haven't found one that I can see doing really well. Far as I know, there are no new ones for sale. There are no really good rip handsaws other than the Thomas Flinn in the new saw market that I see.)

Go to http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/flinn.htm

Tools for Working Wood has some Flinn saws, but not the 4 1/2: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TS/item/PZ-HS303.XX They can probably special order if you ask nicely.

Thomas Flinn has it's own web site; I don't know if you can buy direct, but you might give it a go if you find something in their catalog that Isn't at hand here. They are https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/

When I have rough stock to break down, I usually cross cut to rough length, then rip to rough width and finally resaw to the rough thickness; then my planes get to work. In doing this, the job is a bit easier to get through because the saw cuts are no longer than they have to be.


On the other hand, I more often push the on button on my bandsaw and get on with it. I'm not that pure a Neanderthal, I suppose.

[David Bassett]

... If you really want the hand tool route, ....

I recently saw & bookmarked an article by Will Myers' on his blog: Wicked Fast Saw (and How to Make It) (https://eclecticmechanicals.com/2018/09/02/wicked-fast-saw-and-how-to-make-it/) (It's based on a vintage frame saw Roy Underhill has.)

I bookmarked it, but honestly I'm not sure I'm ambitious enough I'll ever try it myself. Maybe it'll be what you're looking for though.

[Eric Schubert]

I work in 8/4 stock a lot. I go with a 4 1/2 tpi hand saw from Thomas Flinn. (I'd go with a 4 or 3 1/2 tpi saw but I haven't found one that I can see doing really well. Far as I know, there are no new ones for sale. There are no really good rip handsaws other than the Thomas Flinn in the new saw market that I see.)

Go to http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/flinn.htm

Tools for Working Wood has some Flinn saws, but not the 4 1/2: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TS/item/PZ-HS303.XX They can probably special order if you ask nicely.

Thomas Flinn has it's own web site; I don't know if you can buy direct, but you might give it a go if you find something in their catalog that Isn't at hand here. They are https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/

When I have rough stock to break down, I usually cross cut to rough length, then rip to rough width and finally resaw to the rough thickness; then my planes get to work. In doing this, the job is a bit easier to get through because the saw cuts are no longer than they have to be.


On the other hand, I more often push the on button on my bandsaw and get on with it. I'm not that pure a Neanderthal, I suppose.

Thanks, James! Great advice, I have no idea why I didn't consider cutting to length first, and then ripping... this is why I like to ask those with experience! Those saws look nice! (And expensive... but we'll see what the cabinet shop might charge.) I see Flinn offer anywhere from 20" to 26" in the 4.5TPI rip variety. What length saw do you recommend? I'm guessing you went with the PAX saw on the site you linked? I've heard some look for the older Disston rip saws, but they seem difficult to find and typically priced to match.

I think there's actually a cabinet shop just up the road from me. Any idea what a shop would typically charge to resaw boards? I imagine they'd charge by the foot, and having a number of these cuts I'm concerned that it may balloon the cost of my project well beyond the cost of a new saw. I'll have to call in the morning, as they're already closed.

[Eric Schubert]

I recently saw & bookmarked an article by Will Myers' on his blog: Wicked Fast Saw (and How to Make It) (https://eclecticmechanicals.com/2018/09/02/wicked-fast-saw-and-how-to-make-it/) (It's based on a vintage frame saw Roy Underhill has.)

I bookmarked it, but honestly I'm not sure I'm ambitious enough I'll ever try it myself. Maybe it'll be what you're looking for though.

David, that's really interesting! And WOW can that saw cut quickly. When buying all the hardware, it doesn't exactly save money over buying a western or japanese-style saw, but it's intriguing and looks very doable. With Christmas coming up in only a couple of months, perhaps I can put this project off for a little bit and build a frame saw to resaw these boards.

[Luke Dupont]

I do not recommend a Japanese saw / Ryoba. They're not really good for ripping because the rip teeth wind up being oriented against the grain (hooking up under the fibres) if sawing from above the board at a 45 degree angle. Granted, you can cut smoothly at 90 degrees, but I find it hard to control that way.

A western rip saw, with very large rip teeth would be ideal.

Or better yet, make your own frame saw and rip blade. It's not difficult to make your own saw blade, believe it or not. I did so with no experience, and made a frame saw that cut faster than anything else I owned. Lay out your teeth, file them in, and set them with a screwdriver or a hammer. If you go to far, flatten them back down with two pieces of hard wood or a hammer and anvil. Doesn't have to be perfect. Just be consistent on both sides.

[Steven Mikes]

After doing a few long rip cuts by hand with a 5.5 TPI Disston saw, I purchased a Rikon 10-324 bandsaw and put a ripping blade on it. 'Twas a wise decision.

[Eric Schubert]

I do not recommend a Japanese saw / Ryoba. They're not really good for ripping because the rip teeth wind up being oriented against the grain (hooking up under the fibres) if sawing from above the board at a 45 degree angle. Granted, you can cut smoothly at 90 degrees, but I find it hard to control that way.

A western rip saw, with very large rip teeth would be ideal.

Or better yet, make your own frame saw and rip blade. It's not difficult to make your own saw blade, believe it or not. I did so with no experience, and made a frame saw that cut faster than anything else I owned. Lay out your teeth, file them in, and set them with a screwdriver or a hammer. If you go to far, flatten them back down with two pieces of hard wood or a hammer and anvil. Doesn't have to be perfect. Just be consistent on both sides.

Luke, did you follow any build instructions, or have any reference for setting the saw teeth? The more I see this, the more I'm considering this option. That frame saw that David posted is really fast. I'd be willing to use that for resawing.


After doing a few long rip cuts by hand with a 5.5 TPI Disston saw, I purchased a Rikon 10-324 bandsaw and put a ripping blade on it. 'Twas a wise decision.

Steven, if you'd like to donate a band saw, I'd love to use one! :D As of right now, I just don't have the coin to put into a machine. I also live in a townhouse, with my woodshop in the basement, so I want to try to keep dust and noise down as much as possible. That's why I ended up going mostly hand tools. Saws still make plenty of dust, but I did build an air cleaner to help with that as much as possible. (Old furnace blower + 1 micron pocket filters) But, mostly, I just can't afford it right now. It's on my list for the future, though, particularly once I have more space for a larger shop.

[Luke Dupont]

Luke, did you follow any build instructions, or have any reference for setting the saw teeth? The more I see this, the more I'm considering this option. That frame saw that David posted is really fast. I'd be willing to use that for resawing.

I made a bow saw with a rotating blade as opposed to a framed rip saw (which I recommend you do, because holding a bowsaw saw at a consistent angle is a little challenging).

I described how I made it along with the blade in this thread: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?244564-Bow-saw-and-blade-project-My-quot-hardware-store-quot-saw
Curiously, I didn't get any replies, so maybe no-one was impressed. But, it did cut very quickly. I'd recommend using a slightly thicker and wider blade than I did for more rigidity and reference surface, as mine was on the thin side. The blade can be thinner than typical western saws though because it is under tension.

I used a screw driver and Paul Seller's (or Frank Klautz's, I forgot which) method -- just insert between two teeth and twist one way, go to the next set of teeth and twist the other. If the screwdriver isn't appropriately sized it may want to just slip out though.

I'm going to try using a hammer and a nail to set the teeth next time. As with all things, consistency is key. It doesn't matter what you do: too much or too little. Just do it the same for the whole length of the saw and in both directions, and add or subtract from there.

Also, find good saw files. Don't buy a modern nicholson file. And use a slightly softer steel. I think mine was 1045 or 1065 carbon steel with a spring temper in the mid to high 40's; blue in color.

[Andrew Seemann]

So, just for you, I pulled the 4 1/2 TPI rip saw of the wall (not sure on the brand, probably Superior) and ripped a piece of oak 2 1/4 inches thick. Not sure if it was red or white oak, white would be my guess. It took about 3 minutes to rip the 8 or so inches shown below. That was also the point at which the novelty of ripping by hand started to wear off.

394403

Ripping by hand would be possible, but it is slow and a lot of work. I did have difficulty starting the cut with a 4 1/2 TPI saw; for this cut, I started with a finer crosscut saw for about an inch, that made it much easier and safer. Having a sharp saw filled for a rip cut would be essential, and adding wax to the sides definitely helped. One thing to keep in mind about red oak is that the density and hardness can vary from almost like pine all the way to the wood equivalent of reinforced concrete.

If you wanted to get the project done sooner and with less back and shoulder ache, paying the cabinet shop would be a good idea. I'm in pretty good shape for my age, and I can't see doing more than about 15 minutes at at time. I just don't use those specific muscles enough to use them that long.

Also, if you are serious about hand tool woodworking, saving up for a decent 14 inch bandsaw would be a good idea. There are a few folks that do everything by hand, but many of us do the backbreaking stuff by machine. It allows you to concentrate on the parts of woodworking where you get the most benefit from working by hand, like joinery and final surface prep, especially if you are limited in time.

[Eric Schubert]

I made a bow saw with a rotating blade as opposed to a framed rip saw (which I recommend you do, because holding a bowsaw saw at a consistent angle is a little challenging).

I described how I made it along with the blade in this thread: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?244564-Bow-saw-and-blade-project-My-quot-hardware-store-quot-saw
Curiously, I didn't get any replies, so maybe no-one was impressed. But, it did cut very quickly. I'd recommend using a slightly thicker and wider blade than I did for more rigidity and reference surface, as mine was on the thin side. The blade can be thinner than typical western saws though because it is under tension.

I used a screw driver and Paul Seller's (or Frank Klautz's, I forgot which) method -- just insert between two teeth and twist one way, go to the next set of teeth and twist the other. If the screwdriver isn't appropriately sized it may want to just slip out though.

I'm going to try using a hammer and a nail to set the teeth next time. As with all things, consistency is key. It doesn't matter what you do: too much or too little. Just do it the same for the whole length of the saw and in both directions, and add or subtract from there.

Also, find good saw files. Don't buy a modern nicholson file. And use a slightly softer steel. I think mine was 1045 or 1065 carbon steel with a spring temper in the mid to high 40's; blue in color.

Thanks, Luke! I'll peruse your thread for more details. Even if I do end up paying the cabinet shop to slice up the oak, it might be a fun project to hang in the shop down the road. I do have a handful of older saw files that I've used to sharpen up a Disston 8TPI. I added a touch of rake and set so it would be a good all-around saw. I have a couple others just like it that I may turn into more of a crosscut saw, adding a little fleam to slice through the grain easier. (I'll do that when the wife is gone and won't get a migraine from the noise...)


So, just for you, I pulled the 4 1/2 TPI rip saw of the wall (not sure on the brand, probably Superior) and ripped a piece of oak 2 1/4 inches thick. Not sure if it was red or white oak, white would be my guess. It took about 3 minutes to rip the 8 or so inches shown below. That was also the point at which the novelty of ripping by hand started to wear off.

394403

Ripping by hand would be possible, but it is slow and a lot of work. I did have difficulty starting the cut with a 4 1/2 TPI saw; for this cut, I started with a finer crosscut saw for about an inch, that made it much easier and safer. Having a sharp saw filled for a rip cut would be essential, and adding wax to the sides definitely helped. One thing to keep in mind about red oak is that the density and hardness can vary from almost like pine all the way to the wood equivalent of reinforced concrete.

If you wanted to get the project done sooner and with less back and shoulder ache, paying the cabinet shop would be a good idea. I'm in pretty good shape for my age, and I can't see doing more than about 15 minutes at at time. I just don't use those specific muscles enough to use them that long.

Also, if you are serious about hand tool woodworking, saving up for a decent 14 inch bandsaw would be a good idea. There are a few folks that do everything by hand, but many of us do the backbreaking stuff by machine. It allows you to concentrate on the parts of woodworking where you get the most benefit from working by hand, like joinery and final surface prep, especially if you are limited in time.

Andrew, I love it! Even it was just to demonstrate the challenges of ripping oak by hand, I'm excited I inspired you to pull that 4-1/2TPI ripper off the wall. It does appear it's a challenging prospect. I didn't expect it would be a cakewalk, by any means. And I absolutely plan to call up the cabinet shop to inquire about them doing the work for me. I imagine my back will thank me for it. (Though, I could afford to drop a few pounds in fat and sweat, to be honest.) I think the key factor will be blade length. Long strokes take out lots of wood and make cutting go faster. If I can get my hands on a 3.5-4.5TPI rip frame saw, it may not be as bad, since they seem to have longer blades.

I've run into the same thing before, but with surfacing boards. When I built my bench, I was working with 6"x8" Douglas Fir beams, and flattening/squaring those puppies was quite a task. They're still not perfect, but they're good enough to get things started with my bench. But I put in a lot of sweat equity into that bench using my #7. I imagine this would be similar in effort, though using different muscles.

Still, though........ gonna call the cabinet shop.

[James Waldron]

If you want to look into saw making, you might want to know about "Two Guys in a Garage," aka "TGIAG," at https://www.tgiag.com/index.html (http://www.tgiag.com/index.html) for all the components you need to make your own of a wide variety of saws. Some pretty good prices and a good bit of useful information.

[Bill McDermott]

Eric, When I did my hand ripping experiments, I also went for low TPI on a big saw (28" D8 thumbhole at 4 1/2 TPI). I still use it, especially when the piece is too tall for my 14" bandsaw. It's hard to get started. Watch the set. I am going to suggest you keep it as tight as you can. A wide kerf makes the physical work much harder - and it tends to wander around a lot more. Learned that the hard way. Use wedges and wax as needed. These teeth are so large that sharpening is pretty easy. Maybe you can rehab an old saw. Have fun.

[Eric Schubert]

Thanks, James and Bill!

Looks like TGIAG have saw plates, not much as far as hardware to hold the frame saw blades, though.

Bill, Thanks for the advice! I'm glad I'm not the only one looking for self-punishment. I saw one blade made using an old Disston saw plate cut down for a frame saw, but that's a thicker blade. I've actually seen some recommend thicker and thinner blades now. Thin seems like it could flex and break easier. Thick seems sturdier, but requires more effort because it removes more wood in the kerf.

[John Schtrumpf]

...

Looks like TGIAG have saw plates, not much as far as hardware to hold the frame saw blades, though.


For the Roubo / resawing frame saw parts: Blackburn Tools and Bad Axe Tool Works have the hardware.
For regular frame saw parts: Blackburn Tools, WoodJoy Tools, and Tools for Working Wood have the hardware.

There may be other ones.

[Brian Holcombe]

David Weaver setup a Roubo saw for resawing. I used a 4.5tpi Disston when I did it. It’s work but you learn a lot about how saws function.

[Tony Wilkins]

I still would not discount a large ryoba. The thin kerf is easier to pull through the wood and the position you would typically use it in is easier on the back. The fact that it’s not controllable is frankly crap. Use gravity and the cross cut side to set a level kerf and then go to town. It is a learned skill like any sawyering but it’s not that difficult.

[steven c newman]

Might look up Tom Fidgen's videos on how he made his frame saw.....and kerf plane....Might be over at the Unplugged Woodworker?

[Dan Wolfgang]

The 48" Blackburn Roubo kit is where it's at. Ripping through 8/4" red oak, I would expect it to cut at about 1" per stroke. I've resawn quite a bit of 6" wide red oak with it and get about 1/2" per stroke. The big saw is not difficult to use -- balance it on the material you're ripping or resawing, and push with your whole body, not your arms.

[Eric Schubert]

Thanks, guys!

I blanked on calling the cabinet shop today. Gonna set a reminder to call them in the morning...

Depending on cost at the cabinet shop compared to those Roubo kits, I may just invest in one of the Roubo kits. They'd be handy to have, look good in the shop, and I'd learn something new in the process. I even have some pieces to practice on sitting around the shop that I want to cut anyway. And it's a suitable substitute for a band saw, if at least temporarily until I can afford to buy one.

I checked out those videos from Tom Fidgen. It was fantastic to watch him build his frame saw and kerf plane. Definitely a master of the craft. Thanks for the recommendation, Steven! Gives me some ideas for building a saw...

[Warren Mickley]

I have been resawing by hand for about 45 years and I made a veneer saw, 3 teeth per inch, in 1981. However, this kind of work is more dependent on skill and experience than on having just the right equipment. For this reason I recommend you start out with small work like boxes. You could make a box for files or bits. Or if you make a chest for tools make a small one for small squares, marking gauges and the like.

I made a kerf plane around 1983 and used it for a few cuts. For someone with skill I think it is a waste of time. There is a reason that this is not a historical tool.

[chris carter]

Is 8/4 red oak really cheaper than just buying 4/4 (and not having to resaw the stuff)? Where I get my wood most species get more expensive the thicker you go and there's a noticeable jump in price for 8/4 red oak vs 4/4. The other thing is, assuming in this case the 8/4 is cheaper, is there any reason the entire drawers need to be red oak? Why not just do the fronts in red oak and the sides in poplar or something easier to work and likely cheaper as well if cost is a concern with this project.

I've done a bit of resawing because my bandsaw is pretty small so I don't bother with it. I use a 26" 4-1/2tpi rip (and wish it were a 3-1/2!!) There is definitely a learning curve. You get faster and screw up less with experience. This might not be the best project for your maiden voyage.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I still would not discount a large ryoba. The thin kerf is easier to pull through the wood and the position you would typically use it in is easier on the back. The fact that it’s not controllable is frankly crap. Use gravity and the cross cut side to set a level kerf and then go to town. It is a learned skill like any sawyering but it’s not that difficult.

Agreed. I resawed a bunch of ~5" wide box parts in hickory, white oak, hard maple, etc. a while back and the Gyokucho 300mm Ryoba (with two-handed grip) was faster, more accurate, and less tiring than a 6 point Disston rip saw. I don't know how it would compare to a 4.5 ppi or coarser hand saw, but the 6 ppi was the best western rip saw I had. I was surprised at how well the Gyokucho cut even in 5" of hickory.

[Mark AJ Allen]

I would recommend a pull saw, but not a ryoba ... the teeth on the back of the saw can grab in the kerf, make a ragged mess of your board if it's pinching OR can cause your saw to stray.

If you're into DIY and want to do it on the cheap ... take a large point full sized rip saw. Take off the handle. Make a handle to attach to the toe. Drill some holes in the sawplate at the toe. Attach your new handle with your drilled holes. VOILA ... pull saw. It works.

[lowell holmes]

I have a nice Disston 5 1/2 point rip saw that will make that cut easily.

[Eric Schubert]

It's interesting to see how varied the recommendations are. Pull vs push. Frame vs standard western vs Japanese. Tooth pitch anywhere from 3TPI to 5-1/2TPI.

Warren, that's excellent advice. I planned to use this to make a chest of drawers for storing my tools. It's nothing fancy, just a 2x4 frame with plywood skin and some full-length drawer slides. It doesn't need to be perfect, and I feel it's a good starter project to both help organize my shop and get me making something again. The experience making drawers will be good, as well.

Chris, the red oak is already bought, so I just planned to use that. I considered other species, such as pine or poplar, but want the drawers to stand up to tools that might hit the drawers. Oak was the cheapest I saw at the vendor I visited, so I went with that. Is it cheaper than buying 4/4? Doubtful. Is it less work than trying to glue up multiple pieces for drawer sides? Yep. (Though, I still plan to do that for the taller drawer sides.)

I'm still pretty new to woodworking, so I'm not terribly educated around wood choices for various applications. I figured oak was a pretty basic hardwood to use, and it was the least-expensive hardwood I found. If I should save most of it and go with poplar for drawer sides instead, I can do that. I'd just prefer not to spend more than I already have on materials, if I can avoid it. (And, if it makes sense.)

I also checked with a local lumberyard that has a lot of good, quality product. They typically do commercial projects, but sell plenty to hobbyists and home woodworkers, as well. For 1x3 poplar boards (actual: 3/4" x 2-3/4"), they want $2/ft. If my math is correct, that's over $11/bf! Of course, wider boards are a little less per bf, because there's less cutting involved. But, even 1x6 boards (actual: 3/4" x 5-1/2") are $2.85/ft, which ends up as $8.29/bf. In contrast, I have my red oak, which is 8' (actually about 8'-1" or slightly over) and a true 2" x 9-1/2". Again, if my math serves correctly, that ends up being approximately $5.32/bf.

Here's my math to double-check...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/43305762470_d23eb3fcb3_z.jpg

[Eric Schubert]

I've now checked with multiple places, including a Woodcraft and a couple local woodworking/lumber stores, and only one is willing to do this, so far. Looks like charge is based on time, and is $50/hr. I'm guessing minimum of one hour, possibly more, depending on how long it takes them to cut each strip.

[Eric Schubert]

Also, for comparison... Poplar at the local BORG is $12.16 (before tax) for 1x3x8ft. Works out to $9.73/bf. So, not exactly a cost-saving route over the 8/4 oak, unless there's a better place to get it.

[Tony Wilkins]

How are you planning on cutting the plywood?

[Randy Chesnut]

I have a nice Disston 5 1/2 point rip saw that will make that cut easily.

+1 on the Disston D-8 5 ½ rip. Will be a lot of work but, if you set up to sharpen and set the saw, you will have a really good opportunity to fool around with rake, ± slight flame, and degree of set. It will be a lot of work and won't be too quick but you will finish with more than just resawed wood.

[Eric Schubert]

How are you planning on cutting the plywood?

Tony, the plywood is already cut and assembled to the frame. I used my Ryobi job site table saw to cut the plywood to size, drawer openings were cut via jigsaw, and all frame components were cut by hand with a Disston 8TPI crosscut saw.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1899/42666800900_8c66904999_z.jpg

[Graham Haydon]

I echo Brian. Search David Weaver on YouTube and watch his video. Also, Warren makes a very good point. The project sounds extensive for a first run at resawing. Practicing on a smaller project would give the chance to learn with very low risk.

[Eric Schubert]

I echo Brian. Search David Weaver on YouTube and watch his video. Also, Warren makes a very good point. The project sounds extensive for a first run at resawing. Practicing on a smaller project would give the chance to learn with very low risk.

Thanks, Graham! I'll take a look into David Weaver to get some more insights.

I do plan to practice a bit before tackling the oak. I have some miscellaneous pine laying around that I'm sure ripping into strips won't be a bad thing to have laying around. And practicing on something softer is probably a better starting point than the oak. But I have to start somewhere, right? My drawers don't have to be perfect, just functional. I figure it's better to practice on something like this, drawer sides that won't really be seen much, rather than a nicer piece of furniture I want in our living space.

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks, Graham! I'll take a look into David Weaver to get some more insights.

I do plan to practice a bit before tackling the oak. I have some miscellaneous pine laying around that I'm sure ripping into strips won't be a bad thing to have laying around. And practicing on something softer is probably a better starting point than the oak. But I have to start somewhere, right? My drawers don't have to be perfect, just functional. I figure it's better to practice on something like this, drawer sides that won't really be seen much, rather than a nicer piece of furniture I want in our living space.

The thing about drawers is there doesn’t seem to be much forgiveness to be functional. They have to fit.

[Eric Schubert]

The thing about drawers is there doesn’t seem to be much forgiveness to be functional. They have to fit.

True! But the thickness of the sides/front/back of the drawers isn't overly critical, as long as they hold and support the drawer bottoms. They just need to be sturdy, straight, and square. So, if my sawing results in uneven thickness (which I'm sure is inevitable), I'll have to correct that with planing. I expect that would be necessary regardless of my sawing method.

[Eric Schubert]

Just as a quick follow-up to this thread, I decided to stick with a familiar format and purchase a Lynx 26" 4.5TPI rip saw. (It helped that I had Amazon credit sitting around, and I found it available there with Prime shipping...) In the future, I'd still love to take a look at a Roubo frame saw. I feel like they might be easier on the back, since you saw upright instead of bent over a saw bench. But for now, the familiarity will likely be a big boon to making straight cuts. I'll follow up again once I have the saw and have had a chance to test it out.

I had considered a Pax saw, or even something from Wenzloff or Bad Axe, but those are just too pricey for me to justify right now. Someday, maybe....... I'd rather save the money for some wood and files to keep my blades sharp, for the time being.

[lowell holmes]

+1 on the Disston D-8 5 ½ rip. Will be a lot of work but, if you set up to sharpen and set the saw, you will have a really good opportunity to fool around with rake, ± slight flame, and degree of set. It will be a lot of work and won't be too quick but you will finish with more than just resawn wood.

And if you find an old saw, sharpen and set the teeth, it will be a fun trip. I got started and have 10 or 12 saws.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sharpen+a+woodworking+handsaw&rlz=1C1UCRO_enUS813US813&oq=sharpen+a+handsaw&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l4.13311j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUo

It is fun to make a new saw handle as well.