Daniel Thom
10-03-2018, 2:25 PM
Long time lurker, first time poster. Let me begin by apologizing if there is a readily available answer, though I've definitely searched and cannot find one...anywhere.
I recently picked up a "vintage" PM60 jointer. In the spirit of getting things done, I've attempted to do what I felt was the minimum to get it back into reasonable running condition, which in my case included:
Cleaned the tables and checked each table for flatness across the length at three points and diagonally across both diagonals. I couldn't get a .0015 feeler under my straightedge anywhere.
Removed the cutter head (bearings were supposedly replaced somewhat recently and they do seem very smooth)
Removed each table
Inspected, cleaned and lubed the ways and gibs with a thin layer of white lithium grease
Reassembled
Replaced the 4 gib screws with identical new cone screws and lock nuts (one original screw was broken off and I had to carefully drill and remove, so figured I'd just replace them all due to suspect abuse)...
To "properly" adjust the tables, for each table, I:
Checked the gibs were properly in place, with the dimples aligned with the gib and lock screw holes.
Installed the lock handle and lifted the table end while tightening the handle good and snug.
Installed the gib screws and ran them in tight and then backed off about 1/6th a turn (one face on the hex wrench).
Shimmed the cutter head a small amount to bring it to within .003" difference from side-to-side with the infeed table (got it to about .0015")
Loosened the locks and moved the tables inline with one another based on the height of the 0 depth indicator on the infeed
After doing all of this, the jointer tables were much closer to coplaner than when I started, but there was still a sag at the end and a bit of a tilt back-to-front. I'll just say these are on the outfeed side, since that's the side I worked on to bring it inline with the infeed... So I shimmed the outfeed until it was just perfect and locked and left it alone. When I say perfect, I mean I couldn't slide the same .0015" feeler under my straight edge anywhere. I could barely see light under the straight edge anywhere either.
Here's the major problem... As soon as I lowered the infeed side, the front edge near the cutter lowered before the back edge a significant amount (at least .008", maybe more). No more coplaner. I could bring it up and down and this repeated each time. Locking made no difference... Tightening the gib screws until it was nearly unreasonable to move the table made no difference...
I remembered the table moving more "normally" before I had set the gib screws appropriately snug, so I went back through the procedure on the infeed side only, this time only setting the gib screws to not really snug instead of pretty snug. (so technical!)... The table no longer drops away on the front edge first! HOWEVER, as soon as I lock the table, the alignment changes. My thinking is "who needs a lock anyhow?" I could also just adjust the darned thing at 1/32" cutting depth and never move it.
Any opinions?
I recently picked up a "vintage" PM60 jointer. In the spirit of getting things done, I've attempted to do what I felt was the minimum to get it back into reasonable running condition, which in my case included:
Cleaned the tables and checked each table for flatness across the length at three points and diagonally across both diagonals. I couldn't get a .0015 feeler under my straightedge anywhere.
Removed the cutter head (bearings were supposedly replaced somewhat recently and they do seem very smooth)
Removed each table
Inspected, cleaned and lubed the ways and gibs with a thin layer of white lithium grease
Reassembled
Replaced the 4 gib screws with identical new cone screws and lock nuts (one original screw was broken off and I had to carefully drill and remove, so figured I'd just replace them all due to suspect abuse)...
To "properly" adjust the tables, for each table, I:
Checked the gibs were properly in place, with the dimples aligned with the gib and lock screw holes.
Installed the lock handle and lifted the table end while tightening the handle good and snug.
Installed the gib screws and ran them in tight and then backed off about 1/6th a turn (one face on the hex wrench).
Shimmed the cutter head a small amount to bring it to within .003" difference from side-to-side with the infeed table (got it to about .0015")
Loosened the locks and moved the tables inline with one another based on the height of the 0 depth indicator on the infeed
After doing all of this, the jointer tables were much closer to coplaner than when I started, but there was still a sag at the end and a bit of a tilt back-to-front. I'll just say these are on the outfeed side, since that's the side I worked on to bring it inline with the infeed... So I shimmed the outfeed until it was just perfect and locked and left it alone. When I say perfect, I mean I couldn't slide the same .0015" feeler under my straight edge anywhere. I could barely see light under the straight edge anywhere either.
Here's the major problem... As soon as I lowered the infeed side, the front edge near the cutter lowered before the back edge a significant amount (at least .008", maybe more). No more coplaner. I could bring it up and down and this repeated each time. Locking made no difference... Tightening the gib screws until it was nearly unreasonable to move the table made no difference...
I remembered the table moving more "normally" before I had set the gib screws appropriately snug, so I went back through the procedure on the infeed side only, this time only setting the gib screws to not really snug instead of pretty snug. (so technical!)... The table no longer drops away on the front edge first! HOWEVER, as soon as I lock the table, the alignment changes. My thinking is "who needs a lock anyhow?" I could also just adjust the darned thing at 1/32" cutting depth and never move it.
Any opinions?