WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO RIP ROUGH 4/4 stock?

[andy photenas]

Hello i am wondering what you guys do to make your rough stock the right size for pieces you will make? Most of my rough comes to me at about 5-8". So when i make doors i like to split them to make both stiles and i leave the rails in at
5 1/2" and cope them before i split them.
ATM i am jointing one side before ripping them then back to the jointer. Is there a better way?

[Martin Wasner]

This is the best way we've done it so far.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262060-How-I-make-doors&highlight=

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, I don't rip the material until I've flattened it and made the other face parallel. That also lets me see what's in the wood to make decisions on what parts come from where. Ripping flat lumber is also easier and safer. That's how I do it!

[Matthew Hills]

Is it dry?

[Matt Day]

The best way is to not rip rough stock. Joint an edge and a face first so the stock doesn’t move and bind/burn/kickback.

[Art Mann]

I'm with Matt and Jim but I also cut the rough lumber approximately to length and then mill and size it as necessary. It is easier to joint and plane shorter pieces more precisely.

[jerry cousins]

+1 - put at least 2 edges on it then rip
jerry

[Jim Andrew]

My jointer is only 12" wide, so I have to rip wider lumber. What I do is try to keep the pieces close by, so I can glue them back together in order when bookmatching.

[John K Jordan]

...Ripping flat lumber is also easier and safer. That's how I do it!

Ripping rough lumber on the TS scares me since I'm afraid even a slight warp could cause a kickback. When I do rip boards too wide for my planer I use a hand-held circular saw or the bandsaw and allow a little extra on the edges. If the board is long I sometimes use the Woodmizer band mill - it's made for that! (Handy little bandsaw at times. :))

[Mel Fulks]

Assuming a 10" saw I like to rough rip with an 18 tooth. Since some wood is going to move instantly while being ripped the fast cut helps to stay ahead of pinching .

[Mike Walsh]

Bandsaw works well for me

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Clamp it to a sliding saw carriage as long as the faces aren't too rough. Plane first if they are. One pass through the middle would yield the rail stock you are looking for.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Andy, I presume you're asking about a hobby application?

When I worked in industry we gang ripped and fed into a molder.

At home I rip rough material on a sliding table saw, about 5mm larger than I need and cut it about 5 mm longer than I need.

Then I joint and plane the material to finished thickness and width. My FIL is a retired cabinet maker, he taught me that because as he says " there's no point jointing and planning the firewood" by which he means the offcuts........Rod.

P.S. If it's too big for the slider it goes to the bandsaw.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Matt and Jim but I also cut the rough lumber approximately to length and then mill and size it as necessary. It is easier to joint and plane shorter pieces more precisely.
I also cut to rough length, but forgot to mention that. Thanks for the reminder. I will add that if it's truly rough, I might skim a face on the jointer first, despite the longer length to be sure I can ascertain how the figure goes before making the "chop chop" decisions so that grain/color is correct for the intended project components.

[andy photenas]

I build kitchens for a living in a small shop by myself, I build about 10 or so each year. I did realize the roughstock was much too dangerous without some level of flattening and was just hoping there was a tool or a way to make it all much easier.
The other reason I don't love joining it while it's wide is. That it moves again from internal stress, as soon as you cut it on the table saw.
I can't thank you all enough for your input!!

[lowell holmes]

I would rip the 4X4 on my band saw. After the rip cut, I would go to the table saw and then the planer/jointer.

[Jim Becker]

The other reason I don't love joining it while it's wide is. That it moves again from internal stress, as soon as you cut it on the table saw.
I can't thank you all enough for your input!!

It's important to try and remove approximately the same amount of stock on both faces as you joint flat and thickness. You will minimize wood movement issues that way.

[Rod Sheridan]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

Here's a video showing rough timber being cross cut and ripped before jointing.

https://www.felder-group.com/us-us/company/video.html#lightbox-content-1

[Wade Lippman]

Bandsaw is probably the best idea, but if you want to use a table saw and don't have a wide enough jointer... a planer might give a good enough surface to go to the TS.

[Izzy Camire]

Anybody near you with a band sawmill? That might be a way to go.

[Mike Ontko]

The best way is to not rip rough stock. Joint an edge and a face first so the stock doesn’t move and bind/burn/kickback.

I was thinking along the lines of what Matt said, but then recalled that I recently had to cut down a 10-inch wide board (an 8-foot section of 8/4 red oak) so that it would fit onto my 8-inch jointer. I snapped a chalk line and then sized it up on the bandsaw, but could just as well have used a handsaw (electric or manual) to rip it to a more manageable width.

[Mark Wooden]

I'm with Art-
Cut to rough length- shorter pieces are easier to handle
Flatten one face
Joint one edge
Rip to milling size
Mill to suit

[Martin Wasner]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

That is a false statement. You don't NEED A slider to do it safely. There's many ways to do so. A slider is a painfully slow way to process hardwood as well.

A slider is nice for it's versatility, but it doesn't do most day to day cabinet shop operations as well as other options.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Ripping to a chalk / pencil line with a bandsaw is probably going to be your best bet.

[Warren Lake]

Cross cut an inch over or less depending and rip your material over width. there is no set amount over width because you determine by the material and the lengths you are working to, some moves more than other stuff and longer length you need more. Andy sounds like you do a volume of machining solid so cant see the fear thing on ripping rough stock or you werent taught the basics. If you want to do your best work then you break your material down to the smallest pieces. Rod your father in laws statement about not wanting to joint and plane firewood has minor logic but its not the reason breaking down to just over size. Its about tension release not that its a waste machining material that wont be used in the final product.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

Here's a video showing rough timber being cross cut and ripped before jointing.

https://www.felder-group.com/us-us/company/video.html#lightbox-content-1

I agree.

If you are ripping dry rough stock, doing the first pass on the slider should yield a finished pass to reference the next passes off of. To get two pieces of accurately ripped to width stock this way takes three passes through the saw, one on the carriage, one each against the rip fence. A bandsaw approach will require a rip, multiple jointer passes, then the rip against a fence, at least 5 passes. Slider saves time, time is $. The best approach is a straight line rip saw probably, but most of us probably don't have one of those. Consider having the mill do one edge, may be cheaper and save you time ($).

[Warren Lake]

Lets use your example your piece is 4 feet long and 8" wide say, you want ot make a 2 1/4 style, you rip the outside edge and its straight, then you turn your piece and rip to width, Now you have a piece ripped to width and its likely not straight now. A slider has no magical properties to get past tension release. so what is your process from rough material to finished width including jointing and planing.

[Sam Blasco]

For door parts (and most pieces less than 3" wide or so) I cross cut to rough lengths, flatten one face, straight line one edge square to that face, rip on the bandsaw about 1/4" wider than I need. Double check straight line after the tension is released due to ripping, and if it needs it, a quick pass or two on the jointer, thickness everything on the planer, I then get my final width running the boards thru the planer on edge. I did a video of this on my youtube channel. Here's a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=654rJzIBgnY&t=345s

[Mark Bolton]

This is the best way we've done it so far.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262060-How-I-make-doors&highlight=

I watched this again, and beyond coming up with some other conclusions, Im wondering.. do wear a fitbit and count your steps and calories burned throughout the day?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Lets use your example your piece is 4 feet long and 8" wide say, you want ot make a 2 1/4 style, you rip the outside edge and its straight, then you turn your piece and rip to width, Now you have a piece ripped to width and its likely not straight now. A slider has no magical properties to get past tension release. so what is your process from rough material to finished width including jointing and planing.

No, rip the middle cut first. Same as anything, if you find reaction wood, you are making more passes. On a bandsaw/jointer system, you are reripping too or jointing multiple passes. On a slider, you just move it over enough to clean up the reaction and rip it again. Again the slider uses less passes. It's not a magical property, but it is a mechanical advantage... :)

[Martin Wasner]

I watched this again, and beyond coming up with some other conclusions, Im wondering.. do wear a fitbit and count your steps and calories burned throughout the day?

HAHA!

I wear a smart watch that counts my steps. Most days are around 15k steps. Busy days, 18k. No clue on calories, but I don't carry much fat. :D

[Warren Lake]

Steve we are talking rough stock, are you telling me you joint and finish plane to thickness first then rip to width after.

[Mark Bolton]

HAHA!

I wear a smart watch that counts my steps. Most days are around 15k steps. Busy days, 18k. No clue on calories, but I don't carry much fat. :D

Hence my masochists statement lol. Sometimes when I lay in bed at night I think my knees are generating enough btus to offset the gas bill lol. I've taken to leaving my phone (step counter) I the office because it's too painful to see the tally lol

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Warren, it doesn't matter much to the ripping operation whether it's planed first or not. I do it after because as Rod said, no point in milling the firewood. For cabinet face frame parts which is what we're talking about here, it only matters that they have one nice clean face. Tolerances of +/- 1/8" thickness would probably be unnoticeable to 99% of the customers, and they wouldn't want to pay extra for over processed face frame stock. To that end, just plane it, don't face joint, and you'll end up with nice even thickness, which is better than good enough.

[Warren Lake]

Just trying to figure out how you approached ripping rough stock and it doesnt make sense if you say you rip it on the slider then go and joint and plane after then you would have to re rip edges again as they would not be square. IM not getting it but dont worry about it, most of this is six of half dozen of the other. I like all the material straight and flat tension out, face frames door rails styles whatever.

[Mel Fulks]

Gotta disagree with Steve on that face frame thing. I've seen it done both ways. Moulder operater runs the stock then walks around doing nothing but yak about how fast he got it all done. AND noting that it's taking the bench guy too long
to make the face frames. Surprising how many shop owners allow that stuff. A knowledgable business owner would let that moulder guy make a few face frames ,yak about how tuff it is too make face frames with crooked ,twisted ,bowed
material. Then tell him "it's a lot easier and faster with properly run material".

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Just trying to figure out how you approached ripping rough stock and it doesnt make sense if you say you rip it on the slider then go and joint and plane after then you would have to re rip edges again as they would not be square. IM not getting it but dont worry about it, most of this is six of half dozen of the other. I like all the material straight and flat tension out, face frames door rails styles whatever.

For the record, I do the whole process differently for different parts. Some may benefit from the full milling process, for example table top glueup stock.

[Martin Wasner]

Hence my masochists statement lol. Sometimes when I lay in bed at night I think my knees are generating enough btus to offset the gas bill lol. I've taken to leaving my phone (step counter) I the office because it's too painful to see the tally lol

Anybody stupid enough to do this for a living is a masochist....

Or there's some narcissism at play. Self hatred and a desire for punishment.

[lowell holmes]

I have a carbide blade on my table saw. I rip a 1/8" off the board to straiten and edge and then rip to width.