Shimming A Table Saw Splitter

[Joe Wood]

I have an older Powermatic 71 12" table saw. I recently got a Shark Guard and notice the splitter mounting plate must be out of line with the blade. I was talking with Lee about this and he recommended using an aluminum foil tape. It works good but after taking the splitter off a couple times it gets damaged.

anyone have a better solution??

[Greg Parrish]

How is it attached? My PM66 has an adjustment so I can position the splitter in line with the blade.

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[Joe Wood]

I posted a pic Greg, it's just a flat area without any adjustment.

[Greg Parrish]

I posted a pic Greg, it's just a flat area without any adjustment.


I was meaning how how was it bolted to that flat stock welded on. If no room to use a bolt setup like I posted can you simply use washer style shims on bolt to left of the splitter?

[Joe Wood]

I have that same orange handle Greg. How would you use washer type shims when I would only need the shim on one side of the bolt?

[Greg Parrish]

I have that same orange handle Greg. How would you use washer type shims when I would only need the shim on one side of the bolt?

Joe, maybe I’m misunderstanding your situation but I’m only trying to be helpful. My orange handle screws into a bolt that then screws into the metal plate. I can adjust that inner bolt outward or inward to change the position of the splitter. If I didn’t have that inner bolt, I would put washers or shims between the splitter and the tab with the threaded hole to adjust the alignment. But again maybe I’m not understanding your delima. Regards.

[Joe Wood]

I wasn't very clear, the splitter mounting plate must be tweaked out of line with the blade, if you look at the 2nd image you can see the splitter isn't parallel with the blade kerf, there's an almost 1/8" gap at the leading edge so I need to shim that leading edge out a bit to make it parallel to the kerf. In other words the splitter mounting plate isn't parallel with the blade.

[marlin adams]

Go to a parts store to see if they have and GM starter shims. I know they are as thick as 1/64 and if that is to thick get a one time use pie pan you can get at the stores and cut you a piece out to use.

[Greg Parrish]

I wasn't very clear, the splitter mounting plate must be tweaked out of line with the blade, if you look at the 2nd image you can see the splitter isn't parallel with the blade kerf, there's an almost 1/8" gap at the leading edge so I need to shim that leading edge out a bit to make it parallel to the kerf. In other words the splitter mounting plate isn't parallel with the blade.

i see. I didn’t catch that before. In this case, I’m not sure. Maybe there are some wedge shaped shims that could help. Maybe that tab needs to be cut off and rewelded. Sorry that I didn’t follow before.

how about something like or of these?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20510/10002/-1
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-10542

[Joe Wood]

Yeah those shim wedges look good but they'd need to be alot thinner.

[Kevin Jenness]

I would suggest filing or grinding the mounting plate so it is parallel with the blade and shimming from there.

[Joe Wood]

That was my thought Kevin but what tool would you use to grind in there, isn't much space to work. My multimaster would get in there but what type of a blade?

[Bill Dufour]

shim stock of the correct thickness held on with super glue. If you grind it it is probably easier to grind the part that comes out rather then the part deep inside the machine. Also easier to replace if you mess up.
You could drill a few small holes in the splitter, tap the splitter, or glue or solder on a nut on the outside, then use small screws to adjust.
Bill D

[Simon MacGowen]

I have an older Powermatic 71 12" table saw. I recently got a Shark Guard and notice the splitter mounting plate must be out of line with the blade. I was talking with Lee about this and he recommended using an aluminum foil tape. It works good but after taking the splitter off a couple times it gets damaged.

anyone have a better solution??

I was surprised to hear that one has to do so much work to outfit what is supposed to be a proper after-market product to make it work. Is it just your saw, because it is an older model?

Simon

[Joe Wood]

It's probably the saw, somehow the splitter mounting plate isn't parallel with the blade anymore.

how would that happen? The table warped?

[Bradley Gray]

Perhaps you could make a tapered correcting shim out of aluminum, Lexan or even hardwood and epoxy it to the existing plate and shim from there. If it doesn't work a little heat will remove it easily.

[Greg Parrish]

Did you buy it new? If not, Looking at the welds, I’m thinking someone may have rewelded it along the way. They are not nearly as neat as the other welds on that angled area beside it.

[Joe Wood]

No it's from the 60s and I bought it in '93.

yeah looks like I need to make a very thin tapered shim :-)

[glenn bradley]

I use foil tape for shims and even for some moving surfaces without failure. The picture looks like duct tape but, maybe that's just from the wear. There looks to be adequate room to insert and remove the splitter without damaging the tape. Maybe a heavier weight foil would work?

[joel cervera]

I've used shim stock cut from aluminum cans many times on my Old wood working machines. . Its worked great even doubled or tripled up. Unless you need more thickness.. Than something else might be needed.

[Kevin Jenness]

" what tool would you use to grind in there, isn't much space to work."

A die grinder and or a file, perhaps with the smooth end of the file removed to get a long enough stroke. You should not have to remove much material.

Bill Dufour's suggestion of tapering the base of the removable part is perhaps more easily accomplished.

If this part comes off and on frequently, this would be a better fix than a glued shim that is almost bound to loosen up over time.

How did your dust pickup work out?

[Joe Wood]

Yeah I'll work on the bottom part of the splitter. I have a handheld and also a benchtop grinder, but I doubt those could give me a nice straight bevel. What type of a file would I use?

Oh the dust collection is wonderful! None out of the cabinet and just a little coming off the blade onto the table, I am a happy kid :-)