Tool rust prevention

[lowell holmes]

In the current issue of This Old House Magazine, a reader ask Tom Silva how he prevents rust on his tools.
I live in Galveston County Texas, so I Know a bit about rust.
I coat my tools with Johnson's Floor Wax. They do not rust.

I thought some new woodworkers might be interested.

[David Eisenhauer]

Johnsons has worked for my tools and cast iron tops for years as well Lowell. A can lasts forever too. It also lubes saw sides so they cut easier after an application.

[Frederick Skelly]

I use Johnson's. I'm also trying out using a coat of wipe on varnish. The varnish is holding off the rust very well after about 6 mos.

[lowell holmes]

I just found two 10" pipe wrenches that were rusty. I hit them with the wire wheel and Johnson's wax and they rust no more.

Every day, week or so, I find something else that was wet.

[Bill Dindner]

I have similar results form Crystal Clear paste wax, but it’s allot more expensive than SC Johnson paste wax, think I’ll try it next time.

[Richard Amabile]

Add my vote for Johnson's wax. I have been using it for years in a very damp Houston climate. It works well and usually lasts for at least a few months depending on the amount of use of the tool. I find it particularly good for table saw tops and jointer tops.

[Jacob Mac]

I used Johnson's a ton this summer in KC and my tools rusted a lot. I was feverishly applying it and it wouldn't stop the rust. Not a huge deal, but it makes me sad everytime I look at my table saw top.

[Nick Decker]

Jacob, I went through the same frustration when using Johnson's only. What I did was use Boeshield T-9 before a final wax finish. No more rust.

[tom lucas]

If you are getting rust even with Johnson's, are you keeping the surfaces clean and free of sawdust? Sawdust absorbs moisture and will cause equipment to rust. But, yes first treat surface with T9 or gun oil or similar. My shop is unheated/uncooled/uninsulated. It gets very hot, very humid, and very cold. Sometimes I have to watch liquid containers; they will sweat just from the change in the weather. Rule one is no cold drinks on surfaces ever and no liquid bottles of anything left on surfaces overnight. I put on the wax and leave it. I don't polish it after it dries. I leave it thick and dull until I'm doing the next big job. Then I polish is off before using equipment to leave a slick surface. After use, clean off all sawdust and reapply wax. Even if I don't have time to wax, I always dust off the tops. To remove wax fast I use orange furniture cleaner/oil.

[tom lucas]

johnsons paste wax is also a good lubricant for wood threads and sliding parts, like a tablesaw fence or drawer glides. I use the stuff everywhere. Cheap, relatively nontoxic, and effective.

[Jacob Mac]

Jacob, I went through the same frustration when using Johnson's only. What I did was use Boeshield T-9 before a final wax finish. No more rust.

That was exactly my experience. But I didn't learn it until it was too late for my table saw. But my new router table and bandsaw look fantastic.

I won't be without Boeshield any more. I will also be installing a minisplit before next summer.

[Mike Cutler]

The only sure fire way to prevent rust, is to control the environment. I don't have that ability though.
What has worked for me is a combination of paste waxes, Boeshields, and LPS-3 for long lay ups. I haven't seen any dramatic differences between T9 and a marine paste wax, but that's just my experience. I do like the T9 for spraying internals and irregular surfaces.

All of my machines tops are coated with a nice marine wax. I think I'm using a Maquires product right now. I let it dry to a haze and remove it with white scotchbrite. I then wax it again, but this time I buff it off with a rag. The machine is then covered with a layer of cardboard, and then 3/4" plywood cut to fit the top, when not in use. This works for all of the machine tops I have except my Jointer, and I have no idea why it doesn't. My planer bed is done the same way.
I have the hardest time keeping the internals of my Jet 15" planer free of rust bloom. The four columns also require frequent cleaning, and reapplication of a sticky lubricant.

[Jim Andrew]

I have had a chronic problem with rust, and have tried wax first, then boeshield, and finally tried a coat of wipe on poly. The wipe on poly actually seals the top, and it will allow no more rust till it is worn off the top. Using wax over the wipe on poly is great as it makes things very slick.

[Nick Decker]

I've never tried the wipe-on poly treatment, but have seen it mentioned here a few times. I'm surprised that it sticks to the cast iron.

[Stan Smith]

Our house was partially burned by wildfire last summer. With regard to tools, this has been a tough learning experience for me. After a week evacuation, I checked my tools to see if they still worked. Most did at this time. The "professional" cleaners would not touch any machine with a motor so my wife and I had to clean them. We took the smaller machines to an offsite storage unit, but the table saw, band saw, scms, and lathe remained behind in the garage. Months later the scms would not slide on the bars which had rusted solid. Needless to say the tables on the band saw, table saw, and lathe required many hours to get the rust off. The same thing happened to my hand tools, chisels, clamps, etc.. The best cleaner I found was Eastwood Rust Dissolver. The rust came back to everything in a matter of hours. I recently learned that the chemicals in wildfire smoke very quickly react with the metal chemicals causing the rust to be much worse than just rust caused by moisture. The band saw was affected by the heat that may have caused some plastic items to melt. I replaced it with a new Jet 14". Now the table on it is rusted. I just cleaned it using rubbing compound today and sprayed it with T9. I've been cleaning my chisels using some small scrubber wheels on my Dremel. I then coated them with Renaissance wax. The rust was back the next day! Johnson's wax didn't work as well as T9, but I've covered my table saw with a double thickness of moving blanket (cheap at Harbor Freight). My lathe chisels are on a rack on the wall. I guess I haven't applied enough wax? I'm going to try wipe-on poly and cross my fingers. Any ideas on how to protect my lathe chisels? I have over 50 of them. I'm thinking of just using carbide cutters, but I do enjoy the various types of chisels.

[Frederick Skelly]

Stan, I'm very sorry for your loss. That must've been very hard.

One thing I have been experimenting with for rust reduction/prevention is wiping clear finishes on my metal tools. So far, a thin, well-rubbed-in coat of wipe on poly seems to last 6-8 months - which is better than I get from waxing. You might tryy it on a chisel or two and see if it helps.

Best of luck to you. I hope this all gets better, soon.
Fred

[Stan Smith]

Stan, I'm very sorry for your loss. That must've been very hard.

One thing I have been experimenting with for rust reduction/prevention is wiping clear finishes on my metal tools. So far, a thin, well-rubbed-in coat of wipe on poly seems to last 6-8 months - which is better than I get from waxing. You might tryy it on a chisel or two and see if it helps.

Best of luck to you. I hope this all gets better, soon.
Fred

Thanks, Fred. Glad to hear of something new to try from someone that has experience with it. I'll try it on 6 chisels to start. I'm thinking of building some shallow drawers with hinged tops for the chisels. Wipe-on poly sounds like a lot less work. Are you using satin or gloss finish?

I really like that Burke quote.

Cheers

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Stan. I think it was gloss but satin should work too, I'd think.
Let us know whether or not this works for you.
Fred

[Don Peters]

Here's a link to what appears to be a very comprehensive test of 46 rust inhibitors. http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 It's slanted toward gun enthusiasts, but rust doesn't seem to care. I'm mostly using the WD-40 Specialist stuff largely because I can get it at the Borg, although it's not cheap, and the spray dispenser seems cleverly designed to waste it. And bear in mind I'm in Tucson where it really is a dry heat.

[tom lucas]

Another solution is talcum powder. Some WW swear by it. I just started using it (in addition to oil/paste wax). I'm told the talc absorbs the moisture, so the steel cannot. I think a little talc goes a long way when applied with a chalk board erasure.

[Stan Smith]

Some good ideas here. Thanks so much. I'm starting with satin wipe-on poly. I have a large can of it. The rust isn't coming back on some of the tools that I used wax on. I'm thinking that I may have buffed off too much of the wax. I sprayed my band saw table with T9 yesterday. It's taking a long time to dry and the temp is over 82 in the garage. We have a high desert climate here with low humidity most of the time in summer. It's a dry heat. The high will be 101 tomorrow, but 3 digit temps are quite common. Easy Wood sent me a new parting tool because mine was damaged while being moved after the fire. It was already starting to get some rust. I removed it with the Dremel and coated it with wipe-on poly right away. Thanks for all the comments.

[Julie Moriarty]

Here's a link to what appears to be a very comprehensive test of 46 rust inhibitors. http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 It's slanted toward gun enthusiasts, but rust doesn't seem to care. I'm mostly using the WD-40 Specialist stuff largely because I can get it at the Borg, although it's not cheap, and the spray dispenser seems cleverly designed to waste it. And bear in mind I'm in Tucson where it really is a dry heat.

Thank you, Don! That link you provided is the most comprehensive test I have ever seen. Since moving to Florida, rust has really become an issue.

It would be interesting to see how top rust inhibitors in the test, Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist, perform for the woodworker with information on if they transfer to bare wood and if they interact negatively with applying a finish later on.

[Zac wingert]

I spray a thin coat of the below on cast iron tables when I won’t use the machine for a week or more. 412662

[Robert Engel]

I used Johnson's a ton this summer in KC and my tools rusted a lot. I was feverishly applying it and it wouldn't stop the rust. Not a huge deal, but it makes me sad everytime I look at my table saw top.
I live in a climate that 1/2 the year has rain forest type humidity. I quit using wax a number of years ago.

That said, as many have attested, wax can work, but IMO not in every shop and every climate. I could be wrong, but my take is wax can't totally prevent rust because it can't completely seal off oxygen from the metal. Condensation can still form under the wax.

The more frequently you use your machines, the less problems you'll have. (I think this is the #1 preventer of rust!!)

So Jacob, here's what works for me (even now in the most humid time of the year):

1. Keep shop closed up at night.
2. Leave a fan running.
3. When you do see rust, sand it off right away, apply WD40 or a rust remover solution, clean with brake cleaner and apply a protectant.
4. Keep your machines coated with a petroleum based product like Boeshield.

[Stan Smith]

I live in a climate that 1/2 the year has rain forest type humidity. I quit using wax a number of years ago.

That said, as many have attested, wax can work, but IMO not in every shop and every climate. I could be wrong, but my take is wax can't totally prevent rust because it can't completely seal off oxygen from the metal. Condensation can still form under the wax.

The more frequently you use your machines, the less problems you'll have. (I think this is the #1 preventer of rust!!)

So Jacob, here's what works for me (even now in the most humid time of the year):

1. Keep shop closed up at night.
2. Leave a fan running.
3. When you do see rust, sand it off right away, apply WD40 or a rust remover solution, clean with brake cleaner and apply a protectant.
4. Keep your machines coated with a petroleum based product like Boeshield.

My table saw top has held up fine with the T9 Boeshield and moving blanket (folded double). I bought another one for $4.99 from HF yesterday for my band saw top and lathe bed. I'll have to cut the blanket to fit. I got this tip from a youtube a guy in Florida did. I'm will using the wipe-on poly on the chisels--so far no rust.

[Stan Smith]

Okay, I'm finally there. As a poster noted above, the wax may have stuff trapped underneath? Not sure about that, but I've gone back and used the 300 grit scrubbers with my Dremel. Then I immediately apply a liberal coat of wipe-on poly and allow it to dry overnight. So far, there has been no rust returning. I'm doing about 5-7 chisels at a time. A previous poster said the wipe-on poly lasts about 6 months. I guess that depends on how much use the chisels get also. My Harrison Specialties carbide chisels' are the least affected. I think the shafts on them are coated with a material resistant to rust. I have seen variations of the tool finish between manufacturers also. I think all are HSS except the carbide cutting tools. Some of my Easy Wood tools' shafts are non-magnetic. I was going to re-use my magnetic strip tool holders, but bought new ones instead since the strips had very bad rust.

Needless to say, this has been a very arduous task. I thank all who posted with their valuable suggestions. Had I known about the wipe-on poly when I started cleaning, I could have saved many hours. Live and learn my friends and be thankful for your many blessings - and this forum in particular.

[Don Peters]

Julie,
WD-40 Specialist is greasy kid stuff. Goes on like TriFlow and spreads easily, but I wipe it twice to almost dry. Probably best to leave it pretty slippery wet in Florida for best results. I'd be pretty careful about cleaning it off of glued/finished surfaces though. I have no experience with Frog Lube.

Regarding talc: While it is dramatically hydroscopic, that water soaked talc remains on the surface with nothing to prevent moisture transfer back to the surface. Your wax job better be pretty thorough.

dp

[lowell holmes]

I wrap my files in aluminum foil and they do not rust. I use wax on my other tools.

[Robert Engel]

Stan,

Storing your hand tools is the key.

A couple things that have worked for me

1. Rust inhibitive drawer liners. I do think they actually help.
2. Sealed cabinet or plastic bin with a moisture absorber. Camphor cubes also work as well as a product sold by Lee Valley (I believe).
3. Humidity rods. I've used these before but they seem to be nothing more than little heater. I didnt' think they worked too well.

Until I was able to move all my hand tools into a climate controlled room, it was a constant issue. Ultimately, what worked best for me was a sealed cabinet lined with the liners as well as a tub of Damp Rid. The hygrometer never got below 60% RH. I would always find a little spot of rust somewhere everytime I pulled a tool out.

I used the rubber abrasive erasers, applied a little rust remover and coated with Boeshield before I put them up.

[Günter VögelBerg]

I just keep an oily rag by my tool chest and occasionally give things a wipe. But I live in a drier climate.

[Don Peters]

Julie,
WD 40 Specialist is greasy kid stuff. It goes on about like TriFlow. I wipe it all off, but there's still an oily film left, and that seems to work okay here in the desert. In Florida, you'll probably want to leave it pretty wet, and I expect that's an issue with glueing and finishing. I have no experience with Frog Lube. It still seems like the best option would be some sort of wax that dries completely like Johnson's Paste Wax, but waxes don't seem to offer much protection unless they're religiously applied at short intervals. Sigh.
dp

[lowell holmes]

I have 2 cans of wax and a rag somewhere around my bench and my tools are wiped frequently.

[Alan Lightstone]

FWW magazine tested rust preventers a few years ago. CRC 3-36 was their best overall. I've been using it ever since, with good results. I get mine on Amazon.

Their impression was that Johnson's paste wax doesn't provide much protection against rust in their tests.

[Dennis McCullen]

I have a small can from sliced olives that I stuffed a coiled old towel into. I put several drops of light oil on the towel to begin with and refresh occasionally with just a few drops. I wipe down hand tools after knocking any wood dust/chips from them. This was a Pail Sellers tip. For larger machines, I use paste wax, but the most effective thing, IMHO, is that I run a small (6K btu) window unit in an 800 sq ft shop. The south Louisiana humidity is really bad and this marginally cools the shop, dehumidifies the air pretty well, and keeps me from sweating on my work and tools. I do get a bit clammy, but do not have sweat dripping off. The shop is built tight and the a/c does not need to run more than 5-6 hours every other day to work. Other than buying the a/c unit $125, the cost to run it is minimal and I'm not constantly cleaning and refreshing the cast iron and steel surfaces on lots of surfaces.

[lowell holmes]

I absolutely disagree with their assessment of Johnson's floor wax. I have a garage wood shop in Galveston County Texas.
It is humid and tools rust in this climate. My tools do not rust after I put Johnson's wax on them. It doesn't cost much to try it out.

[Jerry Olexa]

I've also had good results w Johnsons Paste wax...A can lasts forever....I also keep a dehumidifier running in shop during the hot, humid months.
Very few new rust appearances.

[Jacob Mac]

Chime back in on this thread a year later.

I follow this protocol and have had zero issues through a very humid summer. First, I got a dehumidifier, and that has helped tremendously. Otherwise, I use Boeshield, let it soak in for a good hour, then follow up with paste wax.

Now if it would just cool off enough so I could get back in the shop.

[Stan Smith]

It's been 100 or + everyday here. I bought a portable Sharp ac unit (on wheels). It vents to the outside with a 6" stretch hose to the window. I mounted the vent to a board to fit in the sliding window slot. I put the board in place and shut the window against it. I block the window with a 2 x 4 to prevent opening the window from the outside. I remove it all when summer is over. The Sharp unit has held up well and made it through a fire unscathed. I just use the single car area of a 3 car garage. The unit does remove the moisture and the hose is quite warm to the touch. It doesn't cool the whole garage but at least my work area is tolerable at 82 degrees. YMMV

[Jacob Mac]

It's been 100 or + everyday here. I bought a portable Sharp ac unit (on wheels). It vents to the outside with a 6" stretch hose to the window. I mounted the vent to a board to fit in the sliding window slot. I put the board in place and shut the window against it. I block the window with a 2 x 4 to prevent opening the window from the outside. I remove it all when summer is over. The Sharp unit has held up well and made it through a fire unscathed. I just use the single car area of a 3 car garage. The unit does remove the moisture and the hose is quite warm to the touch. It doesn't cool the whole garage but at least my work area is tolerable at 82 degrees. YMMV


My issue is I don't have a window in my garage. And since I'm moving in a year or so, I don't really want to bother with either installing a minisplit or a window. But it is getting more tempting by the day.

[Stan Smith]

My issue is I don't have a window in my garage. And since I'm moving in a year or so, I don't really want to bother with either installing a minisplit or a window. But it is getting more tempting by the day.

Certainly don't blame you for not spending $ if you are planning on moving. For those who have windows, I forgot to mention that my Sharp ac is portable on wheels. Also I didn't do any structural changes to the window. I do apply tape where things come together.