D-Way hollowing tool

[Ted Baxter]

Any comments or experience on D-Way's hollowing tool. I have a coiple of his beading tools and their great.

[Russell Neyman]

A group of friends purchased one for me as a gift, and I've found it extremely handy not only for hollow forms but for bowls as well. Now, it's not as sophisticated (or expensive) as an articulated arm with a laser, but it will certainly allow you to do vessels six or seven inches deep quite accurately. I often use it to create even wall thickness on "regular" bowls.

A few specific comments:
>> Purchase one or two extra "ticklers" -- the spring thickness gauge that mounts on the arm. They wear out.
>> It comes with a thumbscrew to hold the tickler, but I switched over to a hex head screw because it was stronger.
>> Holding BOTH arms firmly onto your tool rest (the main cutter shaft and the outrigger) really cuts down on vibration.
>> I have successfully mounted and used other cutting tips onto the D-Way tool.
>> Watch Dave Schweitzer's YouTube videos. He's really good at explaining his stuff.

[JohnC Lucas]

The problem with that type of tool is it still puts strain on your shoulder. It is a good tool but if your not subtle in your use it want's to be grabby at first and stresses you. A captured bar system like Lyle Jamierson or one of the articulated systems is so easy and relaxing to use. I built my own version of the D way tool (actually designed by someone else long before I ever heard of Dway). ONce you learn to use it it works quite well. however you hit those hard spots or sometimes bump into the step you created on the last pass and it wants to jump or kick back at you. With a captured bar system the bar takes all of this abuse. I hollow now literally with 2 fingers. With an armbrace style system it's still a lot of work and little white knuckle unless you do hollow vessels all the time and develop the touch. I'm not putting down D-way tools. They are excellent and well designed. I'm just not a fan of that particular tool.

[John K Jordan]

With a captured bar system the bar takes all of this abuse. I hollow now literally with 2 fingers.

Mike told me yesterday people are using the Hunter Viceroy in captive bar hollowers. Have you tried that?

[Ted Baxter]

maybe I need to look into a captive bar system I was just looking at something quick and simple. There is another captive system I ve seen on You tube but I don't remember the product name I'll look for it. It attaches to the quill of the tail stock i don't know much about it but I do know the person who makes and sells them.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Hollowing is an expensive course to take. I started with hand helds, as that was what I learned about. I got BEATEN UP. They work, but you get a workout. Then I looked around, and to make a long story short, I now have 3 different hollowing systems. Yes, look into a captured rig of any sort. They all are good, and they all don't do everything. They are all better than using a hand held. NOT saying that there is no reason to get hand held tools, I still use mine, as a lot of the captured or articulated hollowers cant do everything.... Good luck in your search.

[Bill Blasic]

I have 4 different hollowing systems and rather than say which is better I'll say that the best bang for the buck right now is Tim Yoder's Elbo Tool.

[Mike Nathal]

For something "quick and simple" the D-way tool or similar tools by Crabtree and Don Derry are pretty good. I find the concept of the "tickler gage" for wall thickness fascinating in its simplicity. But in my opinion these hollowers are really best for "vase" shapes. If you want to make a "flying saucer" shape ( much wider than tall), you will be limited. And really, all the captured bar and articulated systems are pretty quick too. Once you have them adjusted to your lathe, it is pretty quick to install them for hollowing, maybe 5 minutes at most. I use a Jamieson system and am quite happy with it. I replaced the laser with a video system.

[Ted Baxter]

I have 4 different hollowing systems and rather than say which is better I'll say that the best bang for the buck right now is Tim Yoder's Elbo Tool.

Tim's unit is the one I refered to in an earlier post. maybe i need to revist it.

[Peter Blair]

Ted I have one of Dave's followers, I bought the one that hollows in reverse. It does everything he say it will but I seldom use it. I made my own Jamieson system and added the ability to use my camera. It is quick and easy to set up and much less stressful to use. I like others here have multiple hollowing tools. I started with an Elbow before Tim took it on and didn't like it but right now i can't remember why.

[Ted Baxter]

Thanks for the comments Peter I would be interested in what you didn't like about the Elbow system If I buy a captive system that is the one I am considering because it seems to be simple and to setup and use also Tim is local for me.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Like Peter, I’ve got the D-Way reverse hollower, too. I was lucky enough to have Dave teach me how to use it properly. It’s great and still used when appropriate - smaller boxes and hollow forms. Used right it doesn’t tear up the shoulders as much as another hand held system I’ve used. That said, when the piece is bigger than 6” or so, or in tougher, denser woods, I reach for the home-brew Jamieson hollower with a Hunter cutter. It’s more effort to get setup, but little effort required to hollow.

[Brice Rogers]

Capt Eddie Castiline commented on one of his videos of a friend of his who used one of those rigs that attaches to your arm - - he joked that his nick name eventually became "lefty" after he had a serious catch. :D

[robert baccus]

Many of the hand held and elbo rigs seem to work very well to 6-8" depth. I use a homemade Jamieson rig( originally with a heavy wood stabilizer) and have done over 100 vaeses/urns to 20" depth with no problem, I discovered the Woodcut cutting tip 25 years ago and do 95% of my hollowing with it. It has a heavy hook and limiter(no snags or catches) and does not gum up except on some very soft, wet woods--just let them dry a few days. Using almost all fresh cut green woods and twice turning. Just my experience here. My rig also accepts 1/2" shafts (into the 1&1/8" main shaft) with numerous normal scraping tips used for undercuts and necks ect. It will allow a 12" seed bowl shape doing this--a big undercut. Several of my pieces were in the 125# range when mounted--lotta shavings on the floor yeah.

[Peter Blair]

Ted, I thought I had replied yesterday but don't see it anywhere. The original Elbo was what I had so I'm not sure if it has been improved. I found quite a lot of vibration that was not nice. I didn't have a laser or camera setup, I seem to recall I didn't like that I had to clamp it to my nice shiny tail stock. The Elsworth was easy to make and I am not looking back. Incidentally I have several other systems including a Kobra which I use for anything deeper than about 6". Good luck with your search. Here is a link to my blog where I describe how I made my Jamieson.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2018/01/29/hollowing-rig/

[Ted Baxter]

Ted, I thought I had replied yesterday but don't see it anywhere. The original Elbo was what I had so I'm not sure if it has been improved. I found quite a lot of vibration that was not nice. I didn't have a laser or camera setup, I seem to recall I didn't like that I had to clamp it to my nice shiny tail stock. The Elsworth was easy to make and I am not looking back. Incidentally I have several other systems including a Kobra which I use for anything deeper than about 6". Good luck with your search. Here is a link to my blog where I describe how I made my Jamieson.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2018/01/29/hollowing-rig/



Thanks for you comments and the link