Help selecting a router table

[Michael Costa]

Hey everyone. This is my first post... I think. 10 years ago I bought a Freud FT1702VCEK router on clearance ($99) because as you all know, they stopped router production.

It's still new in the box and now I'm ready to start using it. I need help selecting a router table for it. Most tables don't list this as a compatible router, but that might not be true. It DOES come with a (9x12) aluminum insert plate and 2 reduction rings. I don't know if this plate can be used in place of a plate that comes with any old router table. Total noob here.

I'd like a decent quality table that doesn't break the bank. My main concern is that I don't want to outgrow the table in a year wishing I got something bigger or more versatile. Any suggestions?

I also would like to know if any lift kits would work on this. I don't want to be drilling a bunch of holes to make this work.

Thank you!

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, the best router tables are the ones you build yourself because the can be exactly like you want them to be. It's a great shop woodworking project, too.

I didn't remember anything about that Freud router and its format...so I used Google to look it up. It appears to be similar to other routers of the same type. Just measure the diameter of the motor and that should help you determine lift compatibility.

[tom lucas]

So many ways to go with a table. As Jim suggested, building your own lets you customize to your needs/shop. For me, I prefer a cast iron top with an insert. I installed an excalibur table saw add-on as my answer - better use of shop space, and it came with support legs. You can also buy full size iron tables and build your cabinet around it. Besides excalibur, Peachtree has them too. I use an incra/woodpecker lift system in mine. Pricey, but I like its fine and fast adjustment features. I also like the fence that came with the excalibur, as it easily re-positions to the same point. Pay attention to dust collection in your design. I think the Freud router will work fine in most lift systems.

[Art Mann]

I used one of those routers in a table for a little while. It includes features for mounting and adjusting the height of the bits without a lift. Unfortunately, I found out all too quickly why Freud quit making routers. The mechanics are not well designed. The router has been sitting unused in a drawer for many years. I hope you have better luck than I did.

[Carl Beckett]

It is not clear where you are, but my recommendation is to look on craigslist at what is available in your area. Every now and then I see a really great one pop up.

I do agree that making your own is ultimately the best. But before jumping into that project (given you havent used the router much so may not be a heavy user for a while yet), I say just 'get one' - any one within reason. Use it for a while and learn what you like and dont like. Then fold all that into your own design and make your own and sell the one you got on CL. Sometimes with patience you can even make a few $ in the process.

[Ellen Benkin]

If you live near a Rockler or Woodcraft, take the router to the store and ask for help.

[Frederick Skelly]

Welcome Michael. Glad you've joined us! Look forward to seeing what you build.

Hey, I don't want to be "Debbie Downer", but I want to pass on some advice an old craftsman once gave me about router tables. He said "Fred, there's a whole lotta guys out there with a $200 router in a $1000 router table."

I agree that a router can be a key tool in a guy's shop. But I found the old man's advice a useful sanity check on my spending plan. I ended up building a very simple table and fence 7-8 years back and spent some of the savings on good quality router bits instead. (I like Infinity or Freud Quadricuts.) I haven't outgrown this table yet. I used it just yesterday and the results were quite good.

Just something to think about......

Fred

Edit: No offense intended toward anyone. Just my personal thoughts on the matter. YMMV.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’m one of those noted above, but I feel that micro adjustability is the only reason why I even use a router table.
So, if you make your own table, buy a good fence m.

[Phil Mueller]

Can’t disagree with the above advice. I just wanted a decent set up and didn’t want to take the time to build one. I bought one of the package deals Rockler advertises from time to time. Phenolic top, Incra lift, mobil stand. It works for me. Does need a playing card or two to square up the fence, but not a big deal. I think it was $700 or there abouts. I’ve been using it for about 4 years. They should be able to advise whether or not your router will work.

[Michael Costa]

Thanks for the feedback. I do have a follow up question and should that I should have asked before.

My router comes with a 9x12 insert plate. Is that the standard size for router tables? I've seen where plates are something like 8.75x11.5 (I don't remember exact dimensions). Example, a 2x4 is really 1.5x3.5. This may very well be the case with my plate. I could measure it but I would rather not open the box in case I decide to sell it.

And someday I would probably want to build my own table. But today isn't that day. I'm trying to reorganize my shop and just want to be done with it for now. Besides, I'm sure I would know what I would want to build after using it for a while.

[Vince Shriver]

I went with the Bench Dog router table that replaces the table saw wing from Rockler. Added their router lift and Porter Cable 3hp+ router motor. Could not be happier.

[Phil Mueller]

Hi Michael, the actual insert plate size on my Rockler table is ~11 3/4” x 8 3/8”...give or take a 1/16”.

[Prashun Patel]

I suspect the prejudice that a shop made table is better than any store-bought one refers to the ability to build a flat table and a lot of custom storage.

These features are not as critical to me as are a micro adjustable fence and a lift that makes bit changes easy and has precise depth setting. For these, there are plenty of good store-bought solutions.

I own the Incra positioner and lift. You'll be hardpressed to find a better fence. However, like all things Incra, their devices have a lot of nuts and screws to loosen during adjustment. It's not hard, just annoying until you get used to it. That being said, I wouldn't trade my Incra set up for anything. It is better than most fences for joint making, and for jointing panel edges.

[Michael Costa]

Honestly, I would like to get a router bench top from rockler. However, I'm then forced to buy everything I need for it. Need a fence, featherboards, push sticks, miter track unit, and stand. I can't justify the cost of their stand.

I would like something ready to go and upgrade when necessary. So, with that said I think I've decided on a Bosch table top unit from home depot. Only $199. Since I can't figure out how to post a picture I'll post a link.

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/router-tables-ra1181-27744-p/

This isn't that little closed model you see in stores. It would need to be ordered. If my router doesn't fit, maybe my plate will. If all else fails I can either get a Bosch router and sell the Freud or keep it as a bench top/plunge router. Or, since it's Home Depot... return it.

In the future it would be nice to have that cast iron table with Incra fence and a custom built stand that suits my needs. Until then, my wife would break my head if I spent up to $1000 on something I've never used. The whole having a $1000 table with a $200 router that Fred mentioned has been in my mind. I'd rather save the money and get a planer. The money saved will also justify my new added $100 electric bill from putting AC in my garage. =)

[Jim Becker]

Michael, that Bosch unit will be fine to get started, but it's really small. Once your projects start to get more involved, you'll want to do a custom, shop-built unit that can handle larger workpieces safely.

[Frederick Skelly]

I used a benchtop unit like that for a few years until I built mine. It was OK-enough to begin with. Go for it!

Fred

[Phil Mueller]

I should have mentioned that I started out with a Craftsman table from Sears - similar size as the Bosch. Worked fine for small projects, and gave me a good understanding of what to look for when I was in the market to upgrade.

[Nick Decker]

Agreed. That's a fairly inexpensive way to get introduced to what to expect from a table. If your router doesn't fit, hang on to it anyway. You're about to discover that a router collection is a good thing.

[Dave Zellers]

If your router doesn't fit, hang on to it anyway. You're about to discover that a router collection is a good thing.

Uh-Oh. I think I would have waited to drop that truth bomb. This guy is just getting started. He doesn't know yet that he will eventually end up with at least a half dozen routers. :eek:

[tom lucas]

I see nothing wrong with a $1000 table/fence/lift and a $200 router. After all accuracy is almost entirely dependent on everything but the router. The router is just a motor that spins the bit. Of course, a good router does make a difference. But, even some of the best routers are under $400. Want precise depth? Need micro height adjust. Same with fence. And a good table not only ensures accuracy, but makes for safer cutting. That said, a table top model is not a bad way to start out with. If you are a serious woodworker, you'll eventually out grow it. I see nice tables on Craigslist all the time for very cheap.

[Mike Berti]

I am not familiar with that specific model, but even if it had design flaws m, Freud could fix them and start selling improved models. Their decision to stop selling routers had to do with business models. I guess they found the whole enterprise which is out of their main product line not worth the extra effort.

[Michael Costa]

Thanks everyone. Based on the last group of posts it seems going with a table top is the best option for me for now. I'll probably be here again in 6 months looking for a good stand design. But at $199 it's not that big a deal. What I regret is the money I spent on my Jet 12-20 lathe which I outgrew in a month. I need to start a go fund me for that beast made by Robust.

[Frederick Skelly]

I see nothing wrong with a $1000 table/fence/lift and a $200 router. After all accuracy is almost entirely dependent on everything but the router. The router is just a motor that spins the bit. Of course, a good router does make a difference. But, even some of the best routers are under $400. Want precise depth? Need micro height adjust. Same with fence. And a good table not only ensures accuracy, but makes for safer cutting. That said, a table top model is not a bad way to start out with. If you are a serious woodworker, you'll eventually out grow it. I see nice tables on Craigslist all the time for very cheap.

That's a fair point Tom. The need for a more expensive router table probably depends on what you are going to use it for. I use mine exclusively for shaping moldings. So I've never found a need for accuracy greater than my current setup provides, and I get more bang for the buck buying good quality bits. But I can see that if a guy is using it for complex joinery and such, the greater accuracy of a lift, etc could be crucial.

Fred

[glenn bradley]

Thanks everyone. Based on the last group of posts it seems going with a table top is the best option for me for now. I'll probably be here again in 6 months looking for a good stand design. But at $199 it's not that big a deal. What I regret is the money I spent on my Jet 12-20 lathe which I outgrew in a month. I need to start a go fund me for that beast made by Robust.

Sounds like you may be headed down the same path with the router table. If you have an immediate need, a simple piece of plywood clamped to the bench with a milled piece of stock clamped on for a fence will get you through a project. Here's Bob Van Dyke's:

393570

Like you, I learned my lesson on an improper tool purchase. In my case it was my 6" jointer that was the expensive lesson. Once I sold it, I made do for a year and a half before I got my larger jointer. There are times when 'making do' until a "forever" tool can be purchased (or in the case of a router table, built) makes good sense.

I used a simple commercial lift, top and fence and built a base that made sense for me. I have items in the shop that I paid a premium for that are really nice for what they do. My router table is essentially an original Rockler which is quite basic. I have never needed more than it does for me in the almost 15 years I've had it.

My point is that you want to target your spending where it makes the most sense for you. Someone else may be hindered with anything less than the full Incra table and fence setup. For my needs, as long as the fence has split faces with t-slots and the table has a miter slot, I'm good.

P.s. Kowabunga has Rockler gotten proud of their stuff!!! I think I paid $80 for the table, fence and plate on clearance. I just checked and the same rig is now $270!?! Its been 15 years but, $270!?! My apologies; I'd build my own.

[johnny means]

I would rather use a sheet of plywood and a straight board than one of those dinky little Borg tables. Their size, in my opinion renders them useless for anything but the smallest projects. Even a coffee table size top is just too unwieldy on such a small surface.

[lowell holmes]

I have an extended saw table on my table saw. I can extend the rip guide to it's limit.
I have a router set up that I can put in the extension. This allows using the rip guide
along with the router

[Frederick Skelly]

I would rather use a sheet of plywood and a straight board than one of those dinky little Borg tables. Their size, in my opinion renders them useless for anything but the smallest projects. Even a coffee table size top is just too unwieldy on such a small surface.

I'd use the router freehand (not in the table) for a coffee table. :)

[Jim Dwight]

The Bosch unit is a reasonable way to start. But I agree completely with the suggestion to build yourself one. It will cost less and work better. I have never even used a router plate and I've built at least 4 router tables. I currently have two. I have a setup in my table saw extension wing that I use only if I need two. My main router table is free standing and has a home made lift that cost about $100 for the parts. It is a combination of Norm's from New Yankee Workshop (basic layout) an old American Woodworker article (lift) and others I do not remember. The top hinges up for bit changes and is made of a sink cutout surrounded by hardwood. Router is supported by the cabinet back where the lift is.

I learned through my previous router tables what I like and don't like.

I see no reason for a commercial router table. I do not believe they would work better than what I have. But it doesn't bother me even a little bit if others buy their router table.

[Michael Costa]

You guys are killing me. Just when I thought I was out.... you pull me right back in.

[Frederick Skelly]

You guys are killing me. Just when I thought I was out.... you pull me right back in.

Sorry Mike. Do yourself a favor and don't ask what chisels to buy. :D :D :D

[glenn bradley]

You guys are killing me. Just when I thought I was out.... you pull me right back in.

It may seem frustrating but, there is value in this. You have woodworkers who only use a router for edge treatments, woodworkers that use their router table as a joinery machine and everything in between. The value comes in that the statements are correct for the person making them and can contribute to what you finally decide on.

If I am just putting a bull nose edge on stair treads, a router bolted to a piece of ply and a strip of wood clamped on for a fence will do just fine. If you are into double dovetails with contrasting woods, an indexing fence system will be more capable.

Some folks think the router and router table can do everything including prepare a dinner salad. There are book for the tablesaw like this as well. You need to consider what you will be using your router table for and adjust from there.

I use the router table for edge treatments, mortises, dados, stopped grooves, keyhole slots, sliding dovetails, coping, panel raising and much more. I do not use it as a dovetail machine and although I have a basic Incra indexing system that I thought I would use it has never made it out of the box. Maybe some day.

Maybe I can add a short list of my gotta haves that led me to my current setup:
- Flat, well supported table that extends past the cabinet sides to allow clamping
- Split face fence with t-slots that can accept large diameter bits
- Lift
- Miter slot
- Good dust collection

Things I found I preferred but, could work around:
- A wide variety of throat insert opening sizes to control support area and air flow
- Variable speed on the motor
- A motor switch I can bump-to-stop with my hip
- T-track on the top of the fence

I think if you make a list of your "gotta haves" and "nice to haves" and start percolating over that you will find your way. Enjoy the ride.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I had a Freud FT1702VCEK - real piece of junk.
Seized up on me after less than 5 hours use.
Paid $149.00 for it with a free plunge base - that I never got a chance to use.

While the above table adjustments were nice, I'd never recommend anyone use on in a router table.
The hole arrangement is unique to that model & once you drill the plate for the router, you can kiss that plate goodbye when the router dies.

I sold my dead one to some guy for $10 - including the $59 router plate, the wrenches it came with, the plunge base & the 1/4" collet.
Good riddance...

Also - before paying out good money for a lift - which the Freud really doesn't require because of the above table features - make double/extra/triple sure the lift can take the 1700.

IMHO - you'd probably be ahead just using it as a handheld & getting a 3.5 HP , like a Milwaukee 3635 (which is what I replaced my dead Freud with) and set up your table for that.

I don't believe the lifts that take the 3 plus HP routers will handle the smaller Freud 1700.

As I mentioned above, I went with the big Milwaukee, a Woodpecker's plate (expensive,,,yeah,,,but,,oh so nice!), Woodpecker insert rings - plus, I ordered the ready made jig to custom fit the plate to the table & a 1/2 inch bearing bit to use with the jig.

I really wouldn't concern myself that much with the first table you make. Figure on using the table for a while, then after you discover what it lacks, make one more suited to what you want to do.

[Michael Costa]

Frederick.... I am in the market for chisels, I'll keep my mouth shut. Lol

If some who missed it, I mentioned that it came with a plate. If the plate doesn't fit the table, the table can be returned or I can another router and keep the Freud around for table top use. To be honest, I really feel like making a slab table and use the router to flatten said slab. This doesn't require a table of any kind.

I'm just re doing my garage shop and getting all the must haves and wants. I had an electrician here today who installed six, 8' LED light fixtures in the ceiling, added 3 dedicated 20 amp circuits (one of which was for the AC I stuffed into my garage wall, another for dust collection and my lathe, and the 3rd in the ceiling for my air filtration and extension cord reel). The new owners will love it! Lol

Thanks for all the input guys.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Yeah - I missed that it came with a plate..

[Robert Galey]

I'm in the build your own camp. To me, a sturdy, flat table is very important. Without a flat table I don't think you'll be happy with the results. I learned the hard way. I bought a not-inexpensive Rockler router table. It sagged. Besides poor results with work pieces, I spent a lot of time flattening the table with angle iron and shims. Works well now, but I built my own. If you live near Houston, I'll be glad to make you a deal on a slightly used, flat, Rockler router table.
393767