Which blade for this curve?

[Gene Davis]

2-1/2" and 4" cherry, a circular arc of unknown radius, but with a chord length of 20" and a center rise of 1-1/4", so about 24" radius.

We've no other blade for this older 12" Jet saw other than the worn out 1/4" that's on it.

Looking for the tooth specs and width.

[Larry Frank]

I think you are off a bit and radius about 40". At least that is what a calculator suggested.

I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" blade with 3-4 teeth per inch.

[Michael Pyron]

my calculations say that's a 40.625" radius...

I use a router for that type of work held in a sled and pivoting from a simple nail

in fact, I just made a cabinet with an arched top with a radius of 60" and also of course routed the back of the cabinet along with the arched face frame cap. I haven't used any sort of saw for that type of work since I was a framer on a production crew over 25 years ago.

[Van Huskey]

You could cut even a 20" radius with a 1" blade as long as the blade had a "normal" amount of set so any blade the 12" Jet can mount and tension is more than narrow enough to work.

On that saw, I would simply use a 1/4" 4tpi raker hook blade. On a bigger saw, I would use a 3/8" or 1/2" 3tpi. You need an aggressive tooth and low TPI to allow the Jet to chew through up to 4" of wood.

[Bill Dufour]

I would use a bandsaw not a circular saw. A thin kerf blade may get bent. I would do it in multiple shallow passes
Bill D.

[Joe Spear]

I would use a bandsaw not a circular saw. A thin kerf blade may get bent. I would do it in multiple shallow passes
Bill D.

What???? Everybody IS talking about a bandsaw. And how do you do multiple shallow passes on a bandsaw? That's router technique.

[Mike Cutler]

Is this a one time cut? or do you need to make a bunch of these pieces.
Like Van stated, I'd probably use a 1/4" blade also, but 3/8" wouldn't be out of the question.

If the chord, radius, and height, are critical dimensions, you're going to need to make either a circle jig, or a radius cutter. Trying to follow the line on that one could get sloppy. That's a little bit over a 1 meter radius for reference.

[William Young]

You can certainly cut the needed radius with the 1/4" blade you have. Why not just sharpen it? That would take you only 20-30 minutes and you don't even need to remove it for the process. There are several videos on Youtube showing how to do it.

[Bill Dufour]

I took him to mean a 12" tablesaw with a wide kerf blade. If he has a bandsaw I do not see why he would ask how to make a curved cut.
Bill D

[Joe Spear]

2-1/2" and 4" cherry, a circular arc of unknown radius, but with a chord length of 20" and a center rise of 1-1/4", so about 24" radius.

We've no other blade for this older 12" Jet saw other than the worn out 1/4" that's on it.

Looking for the tooth specs and width.

"1/4" blade", "tooth specs and width" That does sound like a bandsaw, not a tablesaw or circular saw.

[Van Huskey]

I took him to mean a 12" tablesaw with a wide kerf blade. If he has a bandsaw I do not see why he would ask how to make a curved cut.
Bill D

I am pretty sure your assumptions are wrong. When you hear hoofbeats don't think zebras. He is asking HOW to make a curved cut just the proper blade to use for a particular curved cut.

[glenn bradley]

Hi Gene,

Since your 1/4" blade is worn already, a new blade is in the cards at the least. I believe your question is to what blade to get. Your 12" saw is going to be a bit on the low end of power for a cutting height of 4" or 2-1/2". My old 12" saw would do 4" material at a slow feed rate with a 3-4 tooth (TPI) blade with the thinnest kerf I could find in a 3/8" blade. A 1/4" blade would do fine as well but, lower tooth counts can be hard to find in 1/4"; 6TPI being the lowest I usually run into.