What wood for a ping pong table?

[Mark Gibney]

I've been asked if I can make a ping pong table using real wood.

I'm guessing the wood should be smooth and dense. Maple comes to mind, but the client has a dark table in mind. I suppose it could be dyed, but I'd prefer to not have to do that.

What would you make that table from?

thanks, Mark

[Doug Hepler]

Mark,

I usually try very hard to give a client what he asks for. That's what custom furniture means to me. But in this case, function should trump form, so to speak. Doesn't a ping pomg table need to be dead flat? So -- a little pushback. A beautiful, functional ping pong table can be made as a torsion box. The skin on top should(?) be 1/4" plywood. Is plywood real wood? Is a lamination, say, of 1/4" solid wood over 1/4" plywood acceptable? Also, how heavy can it be? does it need to be foldable, portable, etc? Need more details about what the client wants

Doug

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Doug...using solid stock for something like this isn't likely going to provide the "long term" satisfaction that would be expected for a game table where a change in the surface can materially affect play. The torsion box idea is a good one, IMHO, because you can construct something that's truly flat and will tend to stay that way. And using quality veneer sheet goods (or shop-made veneer over quality sheet goods) will give the desired look without the downsides of using solid wood. Doug's point about portability is also important. "Stationary", like a pool table would be, would be advantageous since you can better accommodate a very solid underpinning for the play surface.

[John TenEyck]

A real wood base with a veneered torsion box playing surface would be how I would propose the design, based on that input. It could be as light or heavy as desired.

John

[Mark Gibney]

Doug, Jim - thank you for your replies, and I agree with all what you say. However the client sent me a picture of a table made with real wood, and I think this is part of what tickles his fancy. So I think I have to run with that idea for now.

Right now I'm thinking the top will be 1" to 1 1/4" thick, the apron will be in from the ends a good deal, not so much on the sides.

And yes I had better make sure a large table can get into the client's home.

[Jamie Buxton]

Dark wood could be walnut. But walnut is a little softer than, say, maple, so it might show dings from paddle hits. I'd try a sample before I committed to it.

[Mark Gibney]

I just thought of sapele for the table. Any votes yay or nay?

[David M Peters]

As an avid table tennis player a hardwood table would be a real novelty! High quality tables (https://shop.butterflyonline.com/centrefold-25-table) have 1" thick plywood tops with a melamine-like coating that is a not slick but is a bit grippy. A table tennis ball, when rubbed across the table shop, should grab a bit. Ball spin is a big part of the game, the grippy surface lets a spinning ball kick off more forcefully. Hopefully your client wants this for fun & looks and not for a perfect recreation of a good table.

A maple inlay for the lines with any kind of darker wood for the main area would be beautiful.

[Jesse Brown]

I saw some nice ones in Portland--sorry the picture isn't better, but the first is veneered plywood, and the other two are solid walnut. IIRC, they were around 1.25" to 1.5" thick, $5k-$7k, and they weighed over 400 pounds. It looked like the plywood one was two sheets joined underneath the net. All of them had metal bases.

393215


This designer has one pictured on his website, and I believe he built a version for a reality TV show called "Framework":

http://www.jorybrigham.com/mackenrow

[Bill Adamsen]

I played on some of the solid wood tables similar to what Jesse shows in the photo (the chamfered edge). They were on a ship in Norway (very humid) and fabricated from solid Honduran Mahogany. They were drop dead gorgeous and dead flat. As a lifelong table tennis player, I was taken aback. They played beautifully.

[Mitchell Ristine]

Would the client be open to a butcher block type construction? That may move less than larger wider boards. It'd look like a big bowling alley.

[Jesse Brown]

I found the website for that place in Portland: https://www.thegoodmod.com/collections/ping-pong-tables/products/table-tennis-conference-table

[Jamie Buxton]

Sapele flatsawn is gorgeous - full of chatoyance - but it sometimes has stresses built in so it moves a lot when you rip it or plane it. It might be challenging for a ping pong table. Quartersawn sapele is much more stable, but it is not as pretty IMHO.

[andrew whicker]

Who knew people loved table tennis so much?

Really cool stuff out there

[Mark Gibney]

Mitchell - if the job happens I'll probably use boards 6" - 7" wide. The table would be 60" wide, not sure I want to glue up so many narrower strips.

Jesse - thanks for the link. Impressive work.

Jamie - I agree. I prefer flatsawn sapele over QS.

[Larry Frank]

I would make it from Baltic Birch plywood with 1/4" hardwood glued to it. The BB is the right size to make half the table. Ping pong table is 9' x 5' and BB 5' x 5'.

[Bill Adamsen]

I found the website for that place in Portland: https://www.thegoodmod.com/collections/ping-pong-tables/products/table-tennis-conference-table

Thanks for finding that link Jesse .... One attribute that attracted me to the solid wood table in Norway was the single piece slab. Not sure if I had actually seen a single piece table outside of parks in NYC with concrete or metal tables.

[John Goodin]

African Mahogany (Sapele or Khaya species) is pretty stable and seems to have the characteristics your client desires. You may convince him to agree to a plywood top and solid wood legs and support. My local yard sells up 16/4 material. I have to say my first thought was crazy . . but Ipe. It is rock hard, stable and has the right color. It would give him something to brag about to guests. Unfortunately it doesn't glue up well and you would have to resharpen all your bits and blades when done.

[Michael Moscicki]

Here's one by Bob Clagett from I Like To Make Stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzVJrBOsf0M

[Mark Gibney]

John, I considered ipe for a minute, but then thought no. I've made a couple of table tops from salvaged 1" thick ipe fencing, and it's horrible to work with. Plus it's heavy as hell, at 60" x 108" the table would be a slab of concrete.
That said, I find it glues up very well, using Titebond II.

Michael, thanks for the link. Enjoyed that. However the client envisioned this table as being a solid wood "piece" as opposed to being a functional sports piece.
And evidently he doesn't envision it strongly enough - I haven't heard back since I sent him my initial ideas. Maybe he's taking up golf instead.

[Bob Cooper]

Back in my college days I used to play at a place that had plywood tables and they played very slow compared to a pro table so just be aware that the material and finish can have a big impact of the owner is picky