I must be nuts? Another miter box.....

[ken carroll]

I already have three good Stanley Miter boxes and a Marsh picture frame unit, plus a fourth for spare parts but I came across this MF Langdon box and for $50 couldn't resist it. It needs a good cleaning up, it's a bit rusty in parts, certainly not pristine condition but it is fully functional and the saw is very sharp which makes a change. Only missing part is one of the small screw on knobs for the spring plunger to release one of the posts.

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[Mel Fulks]

I'm with you,Ken. I think it goes back to childhood memories of wanting to try one out and not being allowed to get within
ten feet of one. Some time back I posted they were treated like the Ark of the Covennant. Real high tech wizardry

[Tom M King]

I used the one I bought new in 1974 a couple of weeks ago to put up some crown molding in a house we didn't want to sling sawdust in, or drag in big tools. One good thing about them is that they don't make much mess to have to clean up.

[John Gornall]

Can't help laugh as I read this - I have 3 Langdons of different vintage - also a Marsh Picture Frame box (actually Stanley) that's as new bought from the original owner.

I use them regularly

Still trying to find the wooden ruler for the picture frame box - the owner put it out on his porch for me to pick up and someone stole the ruler

[Mike Lemon]

Sorry for the tangent, but are these rare in California or something? Around here, they practically give the things away. I have two Millers Falls (I think- one is buried under stuff at the moment), a Craftsman clone, and one other without marking, and didn't pay more than $10 for any of them. The Craftsman with saw was $1 at an auction last month.

[ken carroll]

Mike,

It varies. People seem to ask more for the Langdons than the Stanleys, I've seen them at $10 but pretty rough. Usually $50 is the going rate, but then gas is over $4 a gallon here. The bay area is tops for expense and taxes. When I retire I may be moving.
BTW, your location is not obvious, where are you?

John, How many planes and braces do you have? LOL......
Tom, Mel.
Yep, I agree!

[Mike Lemon]

I don't give out my location. Somebody made up lies about me and got me banned from a Reddit sub, I don't want someone making up something and finding my employer. Plus, why invite competition to cheap auctions. :-)

[Tom M King]

Here's the way I set it up for cutting crown molding. A wooden " extra fence" clamped into place, so the spacing for the cut is the same for every piece, and a piece of 1/4" plywood on the deck between the fences to keep from cutting the wooden fence all the way through.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I already have three good Stanley Miter boxes and a Marsh picture frame unit, plus a fourth for spare parts but I came across this MF Langdon box and for $50 couldn't resist it. It needs a good cleaning up, it's a bit rusty in parts, certainly not pristine condition but it is fully functional and the saw is very sharp which makes a change. Only missing part is one of the small screw on knobs for the spring plunger to release one of the posts.

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Better triple that number and add a couple more for good measure, then you equal mine (the complete ones, and not the extras). Why? Because they were numerous and dirt cheap here in north central Pennsyltucky! $5, $10 or $20 at the most, including my Stanley Marsh, and the tiniest Langdon. I even bought one from an Amish man, who said why cut by hand when I can use power when off the farm!
.

[John Gornall]

Ken,

My planes are under control - have reduced to the ones I use - about 10

A little weekness for plow planes

Still need a 6" swing brace - 8, 10, 12 on the wall

Miter boxes are my weakness - but I use them - great to cut wood at 3 am and not bother anyone - Makita Slider under the house somewhere

[ken carroll]

Here's the way I set it up for cutting crown molding. A wooden " extra fence" clamped into place, so the spacing for the cut is the same for every piece, and a piece of 1/4" plywood on the deck between the fences to keep from cutting the wooden fence all the way through.

Tom, You don't like the method shown in the Langdon manual where they reverse the end brackets and use them to support the crown molding?

[Tom M King]

Not as much as the way I do it. Mine works better for small pieces, so might as well just set it up once. A spacer block cut the right length to use as a gauge to set the wooden fence with makes it a quick setup, and very easy to hold the crown molding in place correctly.

[Bill Houghton]

In California, but lucky: never paid over $15 for one with a saw. Current count is, I think, four (plus a Stanley 150, purchased because people were raving about them here or somewhere on a recent thread; $10 at the ReStore, although it came without a saw).

I like them for cutting trim (molding) because we live in an 1895 house, with a lot of mitered returns on the head molding over windows and doors. When you cut a two-inch long piece of molding on a chopsaw, the saw often throws it into an alternate universe unless you do fancy things with masking tape to keep it nearby. On a miter box, it just falls over and sits there.

[Mike Allen1010]

Would appreciate any advice about what miter box make/model I need for for saw with 28" long saw plate x 5" under back width ?
Thanks , Mike

[steven c newman]

Stanley No. 358 would do nicely, or...Langdon No. 74

[Mike Brady]

I doubt if you will wear any of those out.:)

[Derek Cohen]

Would appreciate any advice about what miter box make/model I need for for saw with 28" long saw plate x 5" under back width ?
Thanks , Mike

Hi Mike

A Stanley #246 or #358 will work with a 5" depth. I prefer the design of those made by Millers Falls, and several years ago sold my #246 for a MF 74C. This model requires a saw with a depth of 5" and above. With a smaller saw, you can add a board to the floor of the mitre box, but better to get a 74B.

This is the #74C I restored ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Millers%20Falls%20Mitre%20box%20and%20saw/9.jpg

For others, I have a MF #115, which is about half the size of the #74. I needed to restore the box and build a saw ...

https://s19.postimg.cc/bb2z3vkwz/mitrebox4.jpg

Before I managed to find the #115, I built a small mitrebox ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SteamPunkMitrebox_html_13324454.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SteamPunkMitrebox_html_73aafb3a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Simple note about the mitre box numbers for Stanleys....I had the #358 Mitre box until I picked up a Langdon ACME No. 75

The 3 stands for the frame size....the 5 stands for how much saw plate under the spine is needed...5"......the 8 stands for the length of the saw plate....28" long. The main difference between a No. 74, and the No. 75 is in the length of the saw plate it came with....the 74s used a 28" long plate, the 75s used the longer 30" plate...

The guides on the langdons have a space for the teeth of the saw to go through....a 4" saw will NOT fit in the 74 or 75. No room for the teeth to go through.

I also have a Stanley #2246 mitre box.....it usually takes a 26" long by 4" under the spine saw. A 24" saw will work, as long as it is ~4" under the spine.

[Tom M King]

If anyone needs a saw for one, I have one I bought to use in the L-A that doesn't fit. I've had it so long, that I don't remember what size it is, or even who made it. If I'm remembering correctly, it's a little too small to work in the 74. It does have a nice handle. I can check, if anyone needs it.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot Steven and Derek for the info about him a model/type of miter box I need – I super appreciate your help!


I just barely managed to understand the Stanley hand plane naming scheme and thought I had it all figured out – that is until I entered the world of miter boxes!


You guys are the best, Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Mike

The reason for adding the pictures of the smaller mitre boxes was for the thread. However, I meant to write earlier that I rarely use the large mitre box (I called it a #74 but I think it is a #75). The small #115 is the one that gets pulled out 99% of the time, and I resorted to building one this size before I could find one to purchase. Different strokes .... but consider the large boxes are not as suited for fine furniture work.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Yep...different strokes..as I use my 75 and the 2246 a lot.....to the point I don't need to shoot any cuts. As long as the saw and the box are tuned up right, and the saw is sharp....amazing things can happen.

I used adifferent Mitre box today...Brand name is...GEM. when I was done with it, I merely folded it back up, and stowed it back in a drawer. I could use either a Disston D-112 or a 14" long Disston No. 4 Needed to cut a few parts for the drawer runner frames....
393244393245393246393247
Use this to go to a jobsite....had to trim out a doorway...I screwed it to a sawbench...and made a few cuts. Can adjust the guides to fit the saw's plate.
YMMV

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks guys – I totally get that a smaller miter box is more practical, usable for furniture making. The thing is, I have this 28 inch long by 5 inch wide miter box saw, with no miter box to use it in… Clearly this is a "vacuum" in the workshop tool universe that must be filled!


Cheers, Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, there is a solution!

Instead of using the saw in a mitre box, use it with a fence to saw dados and sliding dovetails ...

https://i.postimg.cc/qqfsNd1M/10_Sawguide-settingup1.jpg

One side is square/vertical, and the other is angled (magnets imbedded in the sides for the saw) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/hjkKNKrn/Guide_zpswgg0qpyy.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/T18sfFmn/14_Slidingdovetail-completed1.jpg
Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Once these saws get over a certain size...they actually NEED the guides in the mitre box. Otherwise, too much flex can happen in the cut. As long as the board can fit between the guides, this awkward cut can be done much better in the mitre box....Merely add a wedge of the needed angle under the board. Most of the better ( and bigger) boxes have depth stops. I use mine when cutting shoulders for tenons..you can also set a stop block, or use the one that came with the box, to make repeat cuts. ( my Stanley #2246 has a stop I can set, The Langdon No. 75, I have to clamp a stop block to the fence) Most boxes also have a stock holder to keep the board from moving, and a sharply pointed bolt that comes through the fence, to keep things from sliding. Once the backsaws get over 5" under the spine, and over 26" in length..smart money is to get the box that goes with these larger saws....Disston made a 6" x 30" saw....for the Stanley No. 360 Miter Box.