Cockbeading question

[Phil Mueller]

I’m familiar with the traditional method to add cockbeading to a drawer front (after the dovetails have been cut and the drawer assembled). My question is why wouldn’t you add the cockbeading around the drawer front piece first and then cut the half blind dovetails? Is there any other reason than “it’s just not the way it’s done”, or “it just wouldn’t look right?”

[mike holden]

Phil,
the cockbeads purpose was to protect the edge of the veneer applied to the drawer front. Since it was most likely hammer veneered, the raised edge of the cockbead had to be applied after. Non-veneered drawers usually had the cockbead applied to the case.
Mike

[Jim Becker]

In addition to Mike's comments the cockbeading on the ends of the drawers wouldn't be very attractive if it was end-grain. For that reason, the "ends" are often applied and mitered at the corners. I've done this a number of times and if this is a non-painted piece, it requires some very careful hand work to fit things so that it looks great if only the ends are applied. If you do a full wrap, the mitering is easier.

[Bill McNiel]

This FWW video explanes the use of a cockbead and two ways to make one. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/02/08/two-ways-to-make-cock-beading

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks all. The thought is that I would first wrap the entire drawer front with full width cockbead, mitering each of the corners. Then I would layout and cut the dovetails. The tails would be cut into the drawer sides, and the pins would be cut through the cockbead...as it is now essentially the end of the drawer.

So instead of cutting the end cockbead narrower to allow the dovetail joint to be seen, it actually just becomes part of the dovetail joint (and the dovetail is seen in full). Given it would be a half blind dovetail joint, it would not effect the extended bead. It just seems to me to be an easier execution, and would look better than “hiding” a portion of the dovetail joint. Sorry if this is not well explained.

[Jim Becker]

That will work, Phil...you'll just want to avoid using any metallic fasteners while securing the cockbead...glue only.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks, Jim. Point well taken. It would be like me to ruin a bunch of teeth on my dovetail saw!