usefulness of something like a Rikon belt/disc sander

[mark ahlenius]

Hi

I would like some seasoned advice on the usefulness of a power tool like a Rikon model 50-151 1"x30" belt, 5" disc sander. I'm making some maple leaf shaped boxes on the band saw and looking for an easier way to sand the band saw blade marks off these rather complex shapes. It has a 1/3 hp motor which seems a bit on the light side but for the cost, its probably adequate.

I've seen this Rikon sander on sale right now for about a hundred bucks. Never having used one before I am just wondering if these are really worth having? I'm being careful in what tools I add to my shop these days and more isn't always better.

I've included a picture of the boxes I'm making to give an example of the kinds of angles/shapes I am trying to sand. Any suggestions are appreciated. Perhaps there are better ways to sand such shapes made of hardwood.

thank you,

'mark392203

[johnny means]

I got angry just thinking about sanding that shape.

[Jim Becker]

These type of sanders are very good for shaping wood, but they are not "finish" sanders. You'll need to be very careful using one for what you propose as they can take off a lot of material really fast, even with finer abrasives installed.

I have a larger combo sander in my shop. To-date, I've used it every few years for something and it's not provided as much utility to me as I originally anticipated...not because it's a bad tool, but because the types of things I do haven't lent themselves to it as much as I thought they might.

[glenn bradley]

I have a similar requirement often enough to make me loo at 1" and 2" sanders. After much percolation I went with a $30 Harbor Freight (watch for a sale and use the coupon) and did the hacks well documented on the web. Pick up some finer belts for it so you can step through a few grits. As Jim says, it is not a finish sander and the scratch pattern is often going the wrong way for what I am doing. Still it does simplify and speed up the process of tight concave areas.

[Cary Falk]

With the exception of the entry point of the cut, A small spindle sander would do most of it with a better finish.

[mark ahlenius]

Hi

thank you for your response - very helpful. Your comments about how often you use it align with mine.

'mark

[mark ahlenius]

thanks much

[mark ahlenius]

Hi

thanks Cary, I was just out at Harbor Freight and saw their oscillating spindle sander. The height and diameter of the spindle looks like it might work

In general - are these more useful than the aforementioned belt/disc sanders?

any recommendations?

thanks all

[Cary Falk]

Mark,

I had a Jet 1x42" with a 8" disc. I ended up selling it. I never used the disc portion. I used the belt for sharpening tools and bits. I don't like disc sanders unless the they are big(24") because only about 1/4 of it is useable. I have a floor model oscillating spindle sander and an edge sander. For me those are the most useful sanders. As mentioned before it depends what you make and how you work as to which sander is the most useful.

[John K Jordan]

I would like some seasoned advice on the usefulness of a power tool like a Rikon model 50-151 1"x30" belt, 5" disc sander.

I have two 1" belt sanders with disks, one is a Rikon. It's the bigger brother to the model you mentioned so that's what my experience is on. The other one is a very inexpensive and lower-quality 1" belt/disk sander. I also have Rikon's larger belt/disk sander with a 6" wide belt and a 10" disk.

I use all three of these a lot but the two Rikon's the most. I don't know how the quality of the $100 version compares to the one twice the price, but the one I have is excellent. I use it mostly for metal, such as shaping hand scrapers to use on woodturnings and when making and repairing things. I have zero complaints about it. But I don't think the belt would fit in the concavities in the pieces in your picture if they are as small as I'm guessing they are.

(I use the big daddy with the 6" wide belt for wood and plastic only. It's my workhorse for shaping many things with the 10" disk and flattening certain things with the belt. Wouldn't be useful in tight places)

I'm not sure what I'd use for your pieces, assuming you want straight, vertical sides. I have a spindle sander but even the smallest spindle might be too big a radius for the tighter curves. Hard to tell since I'm guessing on the sizes of the pieces in your picture.

JKJ

[Rick Potter]

I don't know what they are called, but I suggest you check out those little hand sanding frames that take a tiny belt, kind of like a belt on a small coping saw.

For most of what your pic shows a spindle sander would serve you well, if it has several size spindles. I would check out the Home depot's Rigid model which has several spindle sizes as well as a belt. About $200 and has good reviews.


EDIT: They are called sanding sticks, but they don't do inside curves.

I changed my mind anyway. Look on Amazon for sanding drums to fit Dremel and such. You can get a couple hundred in 3 sizes 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2", in several grits with mandrels for less than $30. They may fit your need better than a large sander.

Make a wooden stand to hold the Dremel, etc., etc..

[Terry Hatfield]

I have a Dayton 2x42 with 6" disc. I bought it for grinding HSS tools for my metal lathe and modded it accordingly. Thought I'd use it for all kinds of other things but have never used it once for anything other than it's intended purpose. Never used the disc at all. Seems most of the one's I see being used are by knife makers and other metalworking applications.

[Frederick Skelly]

With the exception of the entry point of the cut, A small spindle sander would do most of it with a better finish.

Thats exactly what I was thinking Cary.
Fred

[Curt Harms]

You can also get sanding belts that go on bandsaws. I've never used one but have kept it in the back of my mind for certain applications. One example:

https://2sand.com/bandsaw-sanding-belts-1-2-x-93-5-pack

There may be scratch patterns because there is no oscillation.

[Larry Frank]

Look at a sanding mop or Mac Mop from Klingspor Woodworking. I use them on irregular shapes a lot.

[andy bessette]

A spindle sander is the absolute worst possible choice for sanding ~flat surfaces! You want a narrow belt sander for the object shown.

[John K Jordan]

I changed my mind anyway. Look on Amazon for sanding drums to fit Dremel and such. You can get a couple hundred in 3 sizes 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2", in several grits with mandrels for less than $30. They may fit your need better than a large sander.



You reminded me. I once bought some soft sanding cylinders that fit my Foredoms. (I find a Foredom incredibly useful to anyone who carves or works with curved wood. http://www.foredom.net/rotarytools.aspx) The little sanding arbors take pieces of normal sand paper That's what I would use for the vertical curves.

392218

I have two sizes. I don't remember where I got them but IIRC I think John Lucas told me about them - maybe ask him.

JKJ

[michael langman]

How about a multi tool sander and holding the part in your hand as sand. The vibration of the tool should leave less sanding marks.

[mark ahlenius]

Thanks much John. very helpful.

[mark ahlenius]

ok will do. thank you.

[mark ahlenius]

Hi Andy,

am curious why you say that? From demos I've seen on FWW's site, seems like they are good for curved shapes like patterns and the like. My issue is that the boxes are 2" deep and am trying to sand across the grain.

Just wanted to understand your reasoning.

thanks much

'mark

[andy bessette]

The small diameter of the spindle (necessary to fit between the leaves) dishes out the surface in scallops, rather than blending it, making a spindle sander a horrible choice for the proposed purpose.

[Cary Falk]

The small diameter of the spindle (necessary to fit between the leaves) dishes out the surface in scallops, rather than blending it, making a spindle sander a horrible choice for the proposed purpose.

A spindle sander was made for inside radiuses which 95% of this project is. A 1x30" sander as well as any other tool can cause similar problems. Like any other tool it takes practice and technique to get a smooth surface. Light passes help also. The quality of the cuts prior to taking it to the sander speeds up the process also.

[Nick Decker]

"Light passes help also."

This. It's when you get impatient and try to push too hard that you'll get the scalloping. Also, keep the work moving.

[andy bessette]

After looking more closely at the photo, I have to agree that a spindle sander would be helpful for the radii.

[Mike Weaver]

You can also get sanding belts that go on bandsaws. I've never used one but have kept it in the back of my mind for certain applications. One example:

https://2sand.com/bandsaw-sanding-belts-1-2-x-93-5-pack

There may be scratch patterns because there is no oscillation.

I have successfully used these on a less expensive smaller saw. The finish wasn't perfect, but for the Arrow of Light awards I was making for the Cub Scouts, it worked very well for tight corners, In my case, it was a 1/2' belt.

-Mike
I

[Derek Stockley]

I've never used these myself, but Lee Valley does carry sanding strips that mount in scroll saws.

[tom lucas]

Consider an oscillating multi-tool, like Fein or cheaper knock off. You can get a variety of sanding contours for them. I love my Fein for detail/corner sanding.

A spindle sander will get most of your leaf, but not the tight corners. All spindle sanders are not the same though. I had a harbor freight spindle sander - not enough power. The rigid spindle/belt sander has a lot of good user feedback.

If you have a scroll saw, the sanding inserts work well for corners.

Or manual sanding with a set of fine files.

Or just cut your own long strips of cloth-backed sand paper and work them back and forth in the corners. Cheap and effective.

As for the sander in question: it won't help much with your leaf project, and their are better investment choices.

[Scott Bernstein]

I have a Jet benchtop combo belt/disc sander. I like it. Granted I don't use every time I'm in the shop but I do find it useful at times, mostly for smaller items, final shaping, etc... I have a hybrid pantorouter for which I make a lot jigs and templates and so I actually use the combo sander while making these jigs. Also useful for making the round template followers.

Scott