Looking for recommendations

[Stephen Kuznicki]

I've recently upgraded my lathe from a bench top to a Robust AB. My Oneway Talon was great for my little Delta but not quite big enough for my AB. I'm looking for a bigger chuck. Something able to hold a 24" bowl blank while coring. I'm torn between sticking with Oneway and moving up to a Stronghold, or I'm looking at the Vicmarc VM150. Budget isn't an issue. Looking for input to help with the decision. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Thanks in advance.

[Dean S Walker]

I prefer the Vicmark 120, very stout, more affordable than the 150. Not to knock the oneway, its a good chuck but the Vic edges it out in my opinion I like the dovetail arrangement and sealed gearing mechanism.

[Mick Fagan]

I have seen the Vicmarc 150 in action coring, massive chuck with massive jaws. If you select the right sized jaws for your work, it will probably see you for anything you wish to turn.

I have the 120 and have used it a bit on heavy stuff, as it uses the same jaws as the 150 I cannot see the value in getting a 150. If I was a production turner and needed to save time, then yes, maybe.

Both chucks have the ability to use the Vicmarc locking ring that allows you to turn in reverse, this assumes you have a Vicmarc lathe with their spindle with the locking groove. Excellent safety feature.

If you go to their website and view the 120 chuck, the reverse picture is actually the 150, you can see the ring lock groove.

https://vicmarc.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=98&virtuemart_category_id=14

Mick.

[Thomas Canfield]

I don't core but my Stronghold with #4 jaws has handled some good size chunks of green wood on Powermatic 3520B and also a 33"D 40 pound platter using 5" tenon. I think there is more flexibility with the serrated jaws and more holding strength. I also have a Talon with #3 jaws for mid size pieces as a second thought.

[Alex Zeller]

I have the Vicmarc 120 chuck with the standard set of jaws (2 1/2") that come with it and the 18" adjust-a-jaw set (Cole jaws). I'll be adding more jaws in the future but wanted to get a feel for which ones I would want before I ordered. I had some very wet yellow birch that was a little more than 20" in diameter. I started off using the face plate so I could make a mortise for the 2 1/2" jaws. Being as small as they are I did use the tailstock to support the pieces. I didn't weight them until after I turned them into rough bowls but I did after. the bowls are 1 1/4" thick about 18" in diameter and 8" tall. When I weighed them they were about 14 lbs. When I got to the point where I couldn't use the tailstock I would say they were close to 20 lbs each. The 120 handled them just fine. I would guess they were 50 lbs or more when I started. I'm still new at this so I can't say that another brand wouldn't of handled it but I'm completely satisfied with my Vicmarc.

I did debate getting the 150 but I'm not sure what it would of gained me. Both take the same jaws and the 120 is recommended for 16" to 24" swing lathes. I guess if you plan on outboard turning really large stuff. If it had more range then I could see an advantage but I don't think it does. I think the larger diameter of the 150 could get in the way of turning smaller projects. If money isn't an issue then I would start off with the 120 and get a 150 down the road if you think you need it.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I’ve got a Robust AB and use both Talon and Stronghold chucks with it. Coring (Macnaughton) I use the stronghold with #4 equivalent jaws. I prefer the smooth dovetail jaws for both, but also have Oneway’s profile jaws and tower jaws as well. I find the best, most secure hold on large green blanks with the smooth dovetail jaws and a properly sized tenon.
I prefer the open back of the Oneway chucks - makes blowing out any dust a simple matter. Actually, I find that its rarely necessary.
I do like the vicmark jaws and have three sets - some that get used fairly often. They are slightly more robust (they work with a set of oneway versa slides for vic jaws - no longer available, I’m told)

[Phil Rose]

I use a Vicmarc 120 with the 9" and 8" jaws 9n my AB. No issues with even 25"x8"deep bowls, coring and all. I think about a 11x17, but truly can't justify (budget is an issue here ;)

[David Delo]

The Woodturning Store is currently having a 25% off sale on their Hurricane 125 chucks & jaws. Here's pic of the their extra large dovetail jaws, a real hunk of steel.

392084

[terry mccammon]

I have used a variety of chucks at other folks shops and I am convinced that my Hurricane's both the 100 and the 125 are the absolute equivalent of the Vicmark in terms of use and obviously a superior price point. Let me also point out excellent customer service from the Woodturning Store.

[Roger Chandler]

I much prefer the design of the Vicmarcs to the Oneways. The Hurricanes are a clone of the Vicmarc's, and are well engineered. I like the closed back, the heft, the pinion wrench is much easier to use, and the quality is there for sure. I have 4 of them in my shop, and will likely add another two in time. I also have 5 Supernova2's, but prefer the Hurricanes.

[carl mesaros]

I have to agree with Roger the Vicmarc 120 is a hard chuck to beat. I also purchased a large Hurricane and it is every bit as good.

[Bill Boehme]

I've recently upgraded my lathe from a bench top to a Robust AB. My Oneway Talon was great for my little Delta but not quite big enough for my AB. I'm looking for a bigger chuck. Something able to hold a 24" bowl blank while coring. I'm torn between sticking with Oneway and moving up to a Stronghold, or I'm looking at the Vicmarc VM150. Budget isn't an issue. Looking for input to help with the decision. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Thanks in advance.

The size of the chuck should be based on the size of the work and not the size of the lathe. For 16" and under a Talon is just fine. I have about five or six Talon chucks and I use them or VM-100 for approximately 84.7% of what I turn on my Robust AB. I Also have a couple Stronghold chucks and a couple VM-120 chucks. A smaller chuck allows much better access to the bottom part of a turning. The smaller chucks grip a turning just as well as the larger chucks.

A VM-120 will work just as well as the VM-150. The main difference is the quick grip feature on the VM-150. A stronghold with #4 jaws will do just fine for coring, but if you want larger jaws, the VM-120 works with all the jaws that the VM-150 uses. If you're new to coring you might consider using a faceplate.

[John K Jordan]

I've recently upgraded my lathe from a bench top to a Robust AB. My Oneway Talon was great for my little Delta but not quite big enough for my AB. I'm looking for a bigger chuck. Something able to hold a 24" bowl blank while coring. I'm torn between sticking with Oneway and moving up to a Stronghold, or I'm looking at the Vicmarc VM150. Budget isn't an issue. Looking for input to help with the decision. :rolleyes::rolleyes: Thanks in advance.

Not a scroll chuck recommendation, but for very large work don't forget about the venerable face plate! It does waste a bit more wood but sure is "robust". :)

Lissi Oland told me she always used a faceplate and she cored and turned the largest pieces I've ever seen done. (She cored and roughed blanks with a chain saw.)
392573

She often turned bowls in excess of 24" like this one. (You can see one of her faceplates in the pictures.)
http://www.olandcraft.com/largest-piece-yet.html

Sadly, Lissi is no longer with us. I'm so glad I was able to visit her several times in Brasstown before she moved back to Denmark.

JKJ

[Dennis Ford]

+1 on faceplates for big work

[JohnC Lucas]

The off brand copies of the vicmarc are not the same quality inside. They look the same outside and even take the same jaws and inserts but inside they just aren't the same. Unless they have changed. I have 2 different brands of copies and both had problems with the pinion gear wearing out. The replacement parts didn't even match and had to be filed to work correctly. Stick with the Vicmac. That being said do the Oneway chucks all take the same chuck key. If they do then that's what I would consider. If not, I love my Vicmarc's. The nicest thing about the Vicmarc is it takes a 10mm hex wrench instead of a geared key. If you ever break one, lose one or wear out the tip it's easy to just go the hardware and get another. If you the same happens for Oneway your screwed unless you can get a new key from Oneway.

[Alex Zeller]

I threw the 10mm hex wrench that came with my 120 in a toolbox drawer and use a Bondhus 10mm. It's longer and has the ball driver end on it so when I'm using the cole jaws or turning a faceplate I can still easily reach it. Plus Bondhus is made in the US with a lifetime warranty and solid steel with just a vinyl cover on the handle. It's a little heavier than the plastic handle style but feels solid. In a moment of weakness I bought a set from Harbor Freight and they feel like kids toys.

[Bill Boehme]

The off brand copies of the vicmarc are not the same quality inside. They look the same outside and even take the same jaws and inserts but inside they just aren't the same. Unless they have changed. I have 2 different brands of copies and both had problems with the pinion gear wearing out. The replacement parts didn't even match and had to be filed to work correctly. Stick with the Vicmac. That being said do the Oneway chucks all take the same chuck key. If they do then that's what I would consider. If not, I love my Vicmarc's. The nicest thing about the Vicmarc is it takes a 10mm hex wrench instead of a geared key. If you ever break one, lose one or wear out the tip it's easy to just go the hardware and get another. If you the same happens for Oneway your screwed unless you can get a new key from Oneway.

I agree about the Vicmarc knockoffs not having the same quality as the real thing.

Did you forget that the Vicmarc chucks don't all use the same key? The Talon and Stronghold use different keys because as you would expect, the ring gears are not the same size and therefore the pinion gears (AKA chuck key) would have to be sized accordingly.

[Roger Chandler]

I actually took apart my Hurricane HTC100 chuck to inspect the inner parts. Compared to my SuperNova2 chucks they are built heavier on the scroll gear and pinion gears. I've never had the back off of a Genuine Vicmarc chuck, but can say the Hurricane chucks are a stronger hold than my SuperNova2's. The jaws do not seem to have any creep in them once tightened, where the Supernova's do at times. I always have to go back and check the hold on the SuperNova's, but when I've checked the Hurricanes...they have not loosened at all.

I understand that is about what the Vicmarcs do as well. I've not used the Bulldog chucks myself, but have seen them used by vendors and demonstrators at symposiums. I also do not know who else has a clone of the Vicmarcs, unless it might be Grizzly? [perhaps?] I heard years ago by owners that they have to retighten the jaws on them.

[John K Jordan]

...The jaws do not seem to have any creep in them once tightened, where the Supernova's do at times. I always have to go back and check the hold on the SuperNova's, but when I've checked the Hurricanes...they have not loosened at all.


Interesting. I have never experienced creep in any of the Nova chucks, with the SN, the SN2, the G3, or the massive Titan models. Since you compare with the HTC I assume it's not just the wood compressing.

Could it be due to play in the pinion gears or the scroll plate/slides? One thing I ALWAYS do with any chuck is rotate the chuck and tighten each "socket" multiple times, moderately, not with a lot of force. This will eliminate any plan and compensate for any backlash in the gearing. I heard a demonstrator say once to "tighten all six places". This was good advice - when I tighten moderately on one socket then repeat on the second I can often turn it a tiny bit more with the same amount of force. I rotate the chuck and repeat until there is no more movement with the same force. Even after significant turning nothing changes.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

John, I pretty much follow the same proceedure... tighten, rotate/tighten...rotate/ tighten...rotate/tighten just a smidgen. What I was referring to was a number of times when doing a project that has size and weight to it, I generally have to retighten the jaws after about turning halfway. You seem to turn mostly smaller stuff than I do. I’ve had blanks on my lathe that were over 200 lbs. to start. I just finished a large hollow form from Chestnut Oak burl, which is a dense/heavy wood, and that burl when whole took 4 men to lift it into an atv cart. We believe it was over 400lbs to start with.

I’ve never had the Hurricane chucks to need re-tightening. Don’t get me wrong, the SuperNovas are a good chuck, and I have 5 of them, but the Hurricanes are my go to chuck now when I can use them not having them tied up with another project I’m working on. At times, I may have 3 projects going on 3 different lathes.

It seems unbalanced wood is enough to induce some vibration that will allow the hold to loosen, but that condition is not near as evident with the Hurricane chucks as with the SuperNova2’s.....from my experience.

[Bill Boehme]

The scroll gear, like the worm gear, is a no-back design ... in other words they can't be back driven. This isn't to say that your Nova chucks might have something else going on like stiction that is allowing the jaws to loosen slightly. However, my guess is that it might be due to the wood. After all, wood is a compressible material and if you are doing some heavy aggressive roughing it's conceivable that the vibration could result in a little compression and it would onlyhave to be a couple thousandths of an inch to make the difference between tight and loose.

[John K Jordan]

You seem to turn mostly smaller stuff than I do. I’ve had blanks on my lathe that were over 200 lbs. to start. I just finished a large hollow form... over 400lbs to start with.


You are correct, I'm happy with smaller, dry wood, the harder the better.

I lost interest years ago in turning large unbalanced green blanks. If I did turn one today I would definitely consider a sturdy faceplate since it may well exceeds the manufacturor's guidelines on all of the chucks and jaws in my shop.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

You are correct, I'm happy with smaller, dry wood, the harder the better.

I lost interest years ago in turning large unbalanced green blanks. If I did turn one today I would definitely consider a sturdy faceplate since it may well exceeds the manufacturor's guidelines on all of the chucks and jaws in my shop.

JKJDid not mean to leave the wrong impression...that Chestnut Oak burl did get a faceplate with 8 screws. I have however roughed out some maple, cherry, and other wood blanks that were in the 130 lb. range with my HTC 125 chuck with the largest jaws available. Safety first, using a jaw set that will be suited to the task at hand.

[David C. Roseman]

The off brand copies of the vicmarc are not the same quality inside. They look the same outside and even take the same jaws and inserts but inside they just aren't the same. Unless they have changed. I have 2 different brands of copies and both had problems with the pinion gear wearing out. The replacement parts didn't even match and had to be filed to work correctly. Stick with the Vicmac. That being said do the Oneway chucks all take the same chuck key. If they do then that's what I would consider. If not, I love my Vicmarc's. The nicest thing about the Vicmarc is it takes a 10mm hex wrench instead of a geared key. If you ever break one, lose one or wear out the tip it's easy to just go the hardware and get another. If you the same happens for Oneway your screwed unless you can get a new key from Oneway.

John, do you mean to include the Hurricane (HTC) chucks in your reference? They are similar in design to the Vicmarcs, but not clones, and unless something has changed in the last year or two, the jaws are not interchangeable according to Steve Fulgoni, owner of The Woodturning Store, in a SMC post awhile back. They also use a different design of chuck key, square rather than allen style. All are very nice chucks. I guess my point is, without actually comparing the innards of any specific brand of chuck side-by-side with another, I'd be careful about making general inferences across brands.

I also have Oneway Stongholds and Talons. Very nice chucks. They use different chuck keys, though, because of the different ring gearing, as Bill notes. But, also, the chuck key of my four-year-old Stronghold does not work well in my oldest Stronghold, about 20 yrs, and vice versa, due to some slight differences in machining tolerances. That's not so surprising over so many years, even coming from the same machine shop, where tooling can of course wear and change. So YMMV.