Circular saw preferences

[Larry Foster]

My 40 year old Craftsman 8" saw died yesterday.

Later today I plan to head out and get a new one.
So many to choose from.

I'm leaning on a corded but wondered your thoughts about cordless.
I expect to pay more than $100 instead of getting a low end.
I'm 68 so this new saw will never get the beating the old one took.

Which do you like and why?

Thank you

[andy bessette]

Avoid cordless!

Skil, Milwaukee and Porter-Cable are what I own. The little Skil 5-1/2" gets the most use.

[Jim Becker]

What you're going to use the saw for is going to influence recommendations. For general construction type work, there are a number of good choices like Andy mentions. If you use your circular saw more for woodworking projects, then I'll suggest you consider one of the nice track saws as they not only "cut" wood, but can also do so very accurately...handy for working with sheet goods and other tasks. Most will still cross cut a 2x4 when you need to, too.

[Jeff Bartley]

My two cents: corded or cordless get on with a brake! None of my saws has a brake and every time I use a saw with a brake I really wish mine had one.

I have four saws currently; a dewalt corded track saw, a hitachi sidewinder, a skill wormdrive, and a skill wormdrive with a Big Foot adapter.

And the saw I'd really like to buy tomorrow is the 7 1/4" Makita cordless that uses 2 batteries.....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I agree with Jim. It depends on the intended use. Personally, I don't mind working with cords and absolutely detest having to buy replacement batteries that can cost as much as 50% or more than the original price of the tool. I had a 12v drill in which the batteries went bad. The cost of the replacement batteries were about 70% of the original price I paid for the drill and 2 batteries. I bought an 18v replacement drill. I have both corded and corded drills but my saws are all corded.

I'd buy a corded saw and if I was cutting a lot of sheet goods, I think I'd buy a guided tracksaw.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for all the replies.
I don't have a lot of heavy construction in me anymore so it will, mostly, be used in my workshop.

Hadn't thought about a track saw
Right now, I'm using a Kreg accu cut for ripping long pieces and a clamp on guide for wide pieces.
Heading over to Lowes and Home Depot this evening and need to bring one home after holding one for feel.

[Matt Day]

I’d suggest paying the extra money to get one of the tracksaws such as Makita or Dewalt.

[Jim Dwight]

Larry,

Unless your big box stores are different than the ones around here you won't find a track saw there but it would be my choice for what you describe. I have a Ryobi cordless, 5 1/2. It was pretty useless on Ni Cd but with 4 amp hour lithium ion batteries, it is quite useful. But only for relatively crude use. I also have a Milwaukee corded saw that is quite useful but I rarely use it since getting a DeWalt track saw. They are, however, in a whole different performance level and also price level. My DeWalt with two tracks was about $600. A Festool with equivalent tracks would be at least $1000.

You can now get a Wen track saw, I think Home Depot will deliver it to their stores, for $135. It only comes with two 25 inch tracks, however. I have a 102 inch, a 59 inch and a 41 inch track. I wouldn't mind a 25 inch, it would be handy sometimes, but you need something over 4 feet to crosscut sheet goods and something over 8 feet to cut them lengthwise. But the Wen would let you get started and you could decide later about more tracks - except I don't think there is currently a way to have a 8 foot plus track without joining two - but that is more portable.

I'm 62 and I've given up trying to push a full sheet through my table saw. My shop is part of the issue but I don't want to handle the plywood that way. I can cut it on my trailer with a track saw or I can get it onto my workbench and cut it up. Some people put a foam board down and cut it on the floor.

The biggest advantage of a track saw is you are not making crude cuts to clean up on the table saw, you are making table saw quality cuts. That is true with my DeWalt, anyway. Not sure about a Wen. Probably needs a Freud blade. It's really nice to not have to muscle around large pieces of sheet goods or solid wood. I edge boards with my track saw too. Easier than a jointer too. I wouldn't want to do a lot of framing with my track saw but I did like it for cutting a stair stringer earlier this year.

Jim

[Bryan Lisowski]

I'm a track saw fan and because of that I bought a Ryobi 7 1/4" circular saw because it is for rough work. I had a porter cable cordless and being Ni Cad it was fairly awful. If it's staying close to a power source, go corded. If you really want cordless, go with what your other cordless tools are.

[Jim Becker]

Hadn't thought about a track saw
Right now, I'm using a Kreg accu cut for ripping long pieces and a clamp on guide for wide pieces.
Heading over to Lowes and Home Depot this evening and need to bring one home after holding one for feel.

There's nothing wrong with using an edge guide, but the benefit of a track saw is that it cannot wander in either direction. With just and edge guide, it can move away from the guide which even if very slight, can affect the quality of the cut. What's wonderful about track saws is that in most cases you can do the "finished cut" and be done without cleaning things up with a table saw, etc. And as I mentioned, many can be used without the track if necessary for those times when it's the better choice.

Jim D is correct that many of the 'borg stores are not going to have a track saw in inventory, but they are readily available from other reputable sources in whatever flavor/color you prefer. Mine is Festool, but many folks have been very happy with the Dewalt and Makita options.

[andy bessette]

A decent track saw will be way over your $100 budget. I bought my Festool TS 55 kit for $350, used, on c/l. Many advantages over a saw guide, including safety, splinter-free cuts and the ability to accurately plunge into the middle of expensive veneered plywood. You'll still want a good builders saw.

[Jim Dwight]

It's a little deceptive to suggest the WEN is close at $135 because it only has 50 inches of track - in two pieces. I've seen reviews saying the Grizzly is the same design and if you can use Grizzly tracks, they get $59 for a 55 inch - their longest. So if you buy two (I probably would) you'd almost double your cost and be clearly much over budget. If you only use what you get for $135, you won't be able to rip a 8 foot sheet - one of the key things I want to do. With one extra Grizzly track you'd be at 200- a factor of 2 overbudget.

So basically I think it's a true statement. To get finish cut quality cuts, you probably need a new blade too.

I have never gotten cuts with a circular saw close to the quality of my track saw regardless of the blade. I think they put better bearings in the track saws. Or maybe the guide makes a difference. I've tried high tooth count blades but that still didn't get me there with my Milwaukee. The wood whisperer review of the Grizzly makes me optimistic that it could get there with a good blade. But he didn't try it so there is some room for doubt.

The WEN also has a weaker motor than my DeWalt - 9A versus 12A. But the Festool is also 9A. Reviews don't say either is too weak.

[Von Bickley]

I vote for the Makita...

[Van Huskey]

If I was asked to suggest a mid-level quality circular saw for all around use it would be the Makita 5007 MGA. When the discussion moves to tracksaws it becomes more complex in my mind. There is a much wider price range (Wen up to Mafell) and also a wider difference in cut quality. If the OP is considering a tracksaw then I think he needs to set a budget (no real budget in the OP) and see where that goes. For me personally, I can't recommend the tracksaws under the Makita/Dewalt pricepoint, under that I would rather have a good quality circular saw especially if it is to be my only circular saw.

[Neil Gaskin]

Skill 77 or equivalent for general use.

Porter cable 345 for general Shop quick break down.

Porter canblev314 small work.

[andy bessette]

Of all my power tool brands Makita has been the most disappointing.

[Andrew Hughes]

My favorite sidewinder circular saw was the Porter Cable Saw Boss.
They don’t make them anymore. I wish they would it was a great saw.

[Neil Gaskin]

You can find them on eBay somewhat regularly. Condition and cost varies. I’ve picked up a few in great condition at around 175-200

[Bruce Wrenn]

I'm in favor of the top of the line Dewalt 7 1/4. The one that has adjustment so you can set blade parallel to edge of the base. I've owned this type saw for years, first as a B&D Super Sawcats, and then as a Dewalt. Same basic saw, just different colors.

[Bill Berklich]

Makita, DeWalt, Porter Cable - all corded with different blades so I can "grab and go" I like them all. I do use edge guides and yes the saw can wander.

[Curt Harms]

Makita, DeWalt, Porter Cable - all corded with different blades so I can "grab and go" I like them all. I do use edge guides and yes the saw can wander.

I use a P-C 314 on a 'saw board' - 1/8" hardboard with straight aluminum guide for sheet goods. It works very well with a Freud blade. I think one of the factors that make it work well is that the P-C 314 has a base that is quite a bit longer from front to back than it is side to side. There's virtually no tendency for the saw to go cockeyed (leave contact with the guide). I doubt that would be as true for the typical 'sidewinder' where the base is wider than it is long. I suspect worm drive saws would be similar to the P-C 314 but have never used one.

[Ben Zara]

I've used the Makita and Skillsaw worm drive saws and they are both nice. I think though if you can save up for a
track saw that would be handier for fine woodworking.

[Dave Sabo]

I agree with the advice on tracksaws IF you aren’t going to do a lot of cutting 2x4s. If 50% of your cuts will be in dimensional lumber , a traditional tracksaw is going to be annoying unless you set up some sort of cutting station. In which case you might as well have a miterstation or radial arm saw.

If you want a quality saw, Dewalt , Makita and Milwaukee usually get the nod from pro framers. Depends on feel to the individual.

Based on on what you’ve told us, I think you should look long and hard at the compact Ridgid.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Fuego-12-Amp-6-1-2-in-Magnesium-Compact-Framing-Circular-Saw-R3204/205076385

under a hundred bucks it’s plenty powerful and has a long cord. Magniusm casing makes it one of the lightest saws around without sacrificing power or toughness. Being smaller means you wouldn’t be able to gang cut 2x’s but it’ll easily put a bevel cut on a 2x8 or 10 for a rafter. That smallness is advantageous inside a small shop though.

[Ole Anderson]

I have an old DeWalt SawCat. I can't remember the last time I needed it in my shop. A circ saw is for general carpentry, not wood working. As others have said, get a track saw and don't look back. I have a Grizzly and it gets used ten times more than my old circ saw ever got used. And in a pinch, it will cut dimensional lumber too.

[richard poitras]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zG_mKQftJ7s

[Tom Bender]

Here's a real safety item to look for.

We all sometimes start a cut while holding open the blade guard. This is safer with some saws. What to look for?

Hold the guard open with your left thumb. Can you also get a good grip on the front handle? If not and the saw jumps your left hand may not move with the saw putting it at risk.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I love my Makita cordless track saw.
I also have a Festool TS55EQ.

Since getting the Makita cordless, the Festool has sat unused in it's Systainer.

Once my grandson figures out exactly which one of the trades he's going to make a career out of, I either give the Festool to him or sell it.

Nothing beats the handiness of the cordless track saw. I've done three projects now with mine - all on a single charge of the batteries.

What I like most about it is being able to cut down sheet good right at the yard &/or store, to the exact size I need for my project. It makes transport, unloading and storage a snap now instead of a back breaking chore.

[Neil Gaskin]

That looks damn handy. Do you have personal experience with it?

[Van Huskey]

Since getting the Makita cordless, the Festool has sat unused in it's Systainer.



I am oddly the opposite, the only time I use my battery powered TS is when I break down sheet goods outside. IN the shop I almost always use my TS75 because I always have a dust collection hose hooked to it and so I have to deal with a tail one way or another. Once in a while, I will grab the cordless indoors if it has the right blade and the bigger saw does not.

[Larry Foster]

I apologize for how long it took me to get back here after so many people were kind and generous enough to share their thoughts and experience.

I did get a saw.

I went to Lowes and Home Depot and picked up every saw they had on the floor.
Compared specs as best my feeble little brain could figure.
I would have liked to hold a Milwaukee but neither had a corded one on display.

For my needs, I didn't need a track saw although they would be nice and, probably help me do better.

Price wasn't a major consideration except that I didn't want to spend $150 or more.

Plenty of choices below that.
I looked at warranty.

I ended up getting a Kobalt and, so far, I am very happy with it.
It came with a 5 yr. warranty, had the fastest RPMs that I saw, (Don't know if that makes a difference)
It didn't hurt that it was $79 and not $119.

I have a Kreg rip cut guide and a clamp guide set up for cutting horizontally.

I appreciate all your input and apologize again for not posting earlier.

Life gets complicated and cuts into shop time.

[Neil Gaskin]

For a Shop use saw my favorite is a porter cable sawboss model 345. It’s no longer made but you can pick them up on eBay for 130-200 depending on conditions and timing

[jordan mccool]

If I was asked to suggest a mid-level quality circular saw for all around use it would be the Makita 5007 MGA. When the discussion moves to tracksaws it becomes more complex in my mind. There is a much wider price range (Wen up to Mafell) and also a wider difference in cut quality. If the OP is considering a tracksaw then I think he needs to set a budget (no real budget in the OP) and see where that goes. For me personally, I can't recommend the tracksaws under the Makita/Dewalt pricepoint, under that I would rather have a good quality circular saw especially if it is to be my only circular saw.

This is the circular saw I have. Have Had it for 7 or 8 years now, never an issue with it. I'd buy it again.

[Ole Anderson]

OP has closed the deal, but for the others looking at this thread, the new main brand cordless circ saws today are nothing like those of 5 years ago. Many have as much power as a corded saw and huge run time with the new bigger batteries. DeWalt, Milwaukee and Makita all offer pro level battery saws. All but one old time framer on my son's recent house build used Lithium battery saws, mostly DeWalt Flexvolt. Including worm drives. But if it is just for occasional shop use, corded is probably the way to go. Unless you already have compatible batteries for your other cordless tools. But as I earlier stated, just go with a tracksaw unless you are dealing with a lot of 2x lumber.

I do have a cordless circ saw, a 15 year old 14 volt Ryobi. Worked ok for cutting paneling, but that was about it. Haven't touched it in 14 years.

[Rege Sullivan]

Good to hear you found a saw that works for you. I read with interest because just yesterday I was looking for space in my shop. I will be parting ways with a number beloved tool I seldom/never use these days.
My 40-50 year old 8" PC and maybe even the new (20 yr old) 7 1/4 Craftsman among them. I have not plugged in either for more than 5 years. I've been using 2 Makita 18v saws. One is a 7 1/4 and the other 5 3/8 metal cutting saw. Couldn't imagine needing a corded saw unless I find a way to turn back the clock a few decades and find my way in to some heavy construction.

[Larry Foster]

I'm revisiting this to see if I can, unashamedly, ask your thoughts again.


I am happy with the saw I got but I didn't address some important issues very well.


Breaking down sheet goods being the biggest that I've come across.


I have a very small shop which adds to difficulties.
I made a sacrificial cutting rack but need to take it outside and winter is about here.


I use a Kreg Rip Cut for ripping and a clamping guide for cross cuts.


I've been finding that I'm deviating at the end of the cuts and not getting true cuts the whole distance.


At the cost of plywood, I don't want to mess too many sheets up before I can justify spending a little money on a better set up.


I have become enamored with the idea of a vertical panel saw.
One of those would address my space problems as well as my accuracy and I wouldn't have to drag my horses outside in bad weather and drag this rack.
And then put it away.


But the factory made ones are way out of my reach.


I have been scouring the source of all knowledge, YouTube, and found several relatively inexpensive solutions.


Woodsmith has a pretty neat one here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9iAnUJxhW0&t=3s
It's a sliding carriage vertical saw.
I did buy the plans.


Another is this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVubVWzgm_s


And a real Redneck solution here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6B4peRQgL0&t=77s


Any thought, input and advice are greatly appreciated

[Roger Feeley]

Note that you can get left and right-handed saws.

Most handheld saws have the motor to the left of the blade. This is great if you are right handed and hold the wood with your non-dominant hand. But If you are left handed, it can be awkward. It's also awkward if you are right handed and cutting plywood.

I am right handed. I have two saws. I use the one with the motor on the left for construction type cutting. For cutting plywood against a straight guide, I use one with the motor on the right. This allows me to more comfortably hold the saw against the guide with my right hand.

I keep the right-motored saw with a plywood blade. I keep the left-motored saw with a courser construction type blade.

A left hander would do the exact opposite.

[Van Huskey]

Given the time to build and tune, cost and space for a vertical panel saw I would be looking hard at a track saw. I wouldn't trade my track saws for anything but a high-end panel saw.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Roger and Van.

Hadn't considered right and left hand motors.

Van, I get your points on time to build and tune but a track saw wouldn't address my space issues.

I have length in my shop but pretty narrow.
My thought, which could be way off, is to keep it to the side against my longest wall which is 12'+
Right now, that's where I'm keeping the little bit of plywood I have

[Joe Hendershott]

For years I used a Hitachi saw with a homemade folding table to cut up sheet goods into smaller panels and then cutting on the table saw. This worked fine until the saw quit and I needed another. For years I balked at the price of any Festool products. I told myself there's just no way they are that much better- I was wrong. I bought the Festool 55reg with the track and still marvel at the build quality every time I use it. The saw is just a pleasure to use. Easy to adjust, great dust control, light weight, there is just nothing bad about it. I've since invested heavily in Festool and although the amount of money I've laid out is disconcerting the pleasure I get using each tool is well worth it to me. If you can find someone local who will let you make a few cuts you will be a convert.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Joe.

I'm not opposed to track saws or stuff like that
I just don't have room in my shop to cut a 4'X8' piece of plywood on the flat.

It's that narrow

[Nike Nihiser]

I agree with Van. My old Craftsman circular saw recently died, did some research and ended up with the Makita 5007 MGA. I'm very happy with it.

[Larry Foster]

My shop is 9' wide.

[Peter Christensen]

So would a vertical rack to hold the goods with a long track and a second one for vertical that can be clamped in place as needed work for you? Quicker and easier to setup plus you can still use the track saws on horses when needed.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Breaking down sheet goods being the biggest that I've come across.
& the fact your shop is only 9' wide.

Again, I go back to the cordless track saw. I use my Makita to cut 4x8 sheets down to finished size right in the parking lot of the store where I buy it.
I made a "cutting table" out of two 4' long sections of 2x4's that are hinged together so the open up to 8' long. I drilled four - 3/4" diameter holes in them.
In those holes, I insert 8 of these guys (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=75861) ( the Veritas thingies everyone made fun of that I find immensely useful). Into those, I stick two 1x4x7' boards.
I can set that rig up on top of one of those flat lumber carts they have at the Borg - or - I can stick that rig on a couple of folding plastic saw horses.
(weather permitting - I'll try to set it up in the driveway and take some pictures of it)

The biggest problem with those shop made panel saws is - - accuracy of the cut(s). By that I mean, since they have no zero clearance capability as such, they leave a splintered rough edge that needs trimmed.
High end track saws rival top shelf table saws with top shelf fences. With either my Makita or my Festool - there's no need to "touch up" anything they cut on the table saw.


& plus 1 to everything Joe said - even though I haven't used my Festool since I got the cordless Makita.

[Larry Foster]

Peter, that probably is my solution.
Although those panel saws, even the home made are pretty neat, It's probably overkill.
I'm contemplating a rolling plywood cart.
Maybe one side for storage and one side for cutting vertically, as you suggest.

Do you have a track that you recommend for 8' cuts?
Or choke it down and buy a track saw and track kit?

Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
I appreciate the suggestion.

But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.

[Prashun Patel]

If there is wisdom in the crowd, realize that most people with space issues opt for a track saw not a panel saw. I infer from this that it is for many, more versatile and accurate than a panel saw. I find that there is rarely any need for me (hobbyist) to bring a 4x8 sheet into the shop. Saw horses and a track saw allow me to break things down outside. It's cleaner and quick enough to do on all but the snowiest days.

The wallspace that a panel saw would require in the shop, on the other hand, is at a premium for me. I would not want to sacrifice the storage of clamps and may hand tools for something that I'd need for only the start of a project.

[Peter Christensen]

Peter, that probably is my solution.
Although those panel saws, even the home made are pretty neat, It's probably overkill.
I'm contemplating a rolling plywood cart.
Maybe one side for storage and one side for cutting vertically, as you suggest.

Do you have a track that you recommend for 8' cuts?
Or choke it down and buy a track saw and track kit?

Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
I appreciate the suggestion.

But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.

It's 22F with 20mph winds so outside anything especially with sheet goods wouldn't happen here either and winter is only just getting its footing.

If the cart is to be moveable I would consider making it tilt so you can work inside against the wall and outside weather permitting with it horizontal. You'd also be able to slide the sheet goods onto it from your vehicle. like the ones people make for their table saws.

I have a cheap Grizzly track saw and because the tracks are 55" long you need to use the little connection bars to to join two tracks. They wouldn't support a saw much less themselves if placed on a sheet to cut the long dimension in a vertical rack. So a Makita or Dewalt would be the minimum if you can't afford Germany's finest.

Something to consider if cutting the long way in a vertical rack is the kerf closing as you cut. You might want to have some wedges to stick in the sheet as you cut so it doesn't pinch the saw blade.

[Larry Foster]

Peter, thanks for the tips, again.
I like the idea of a tilting rack.
Have to put my Redneck Engineering hat on.

Dumb question (or several)
What is Germany's finest?

Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.


Also, do I need a specific "track" saw or can I use a circular saw?

[Van Huskey]

Dumb question (or several)
What is Germany's finest?

Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.


Also, do I need a specific "track" saw or can I use a circular saw?

Germany's finest might have been referring to Festool, however, Germany's true finest in track saws are from Mafell but that is a price point above Festool. Bosch also makes a slightly watered down licensed version of the Mafell 55 series saw at a similar price point to Festool. If you aren't already in the Festool ecosystem the Bosch could be a string contender since the Mafell track system is superior to all the other track on the market.

All the tracks for tracksaws are designed to be clamped from underneath as to not interfere with the movement of the saw along the rail. They do ride on the track.

You need a tracksaw to run on tracksaw rails, there is some interchangeability between tracks and saws but you need to investigate that for each combo.

There are certainly circular saw/guide systems that work well for some people but in the end none of them are as idiot proof as the good tracksaws. There are much cheaper tracksaws like Wen and Grizzly that some people have good luck with. My personal experience is limited to Makita, Dewalt, Festool and Mafell.

[Jim Becker]

Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.

Most often, clamping the track uses a clamp that inserts into the tee-slot on the bottom of the track at the edge of the material. Therefore, it doesn't interfere with the saw at all. Do note that since the saw doesn't "attache" to the track, making cuts with the material oriented so it's not horizontal means having to be very careful with holding the saw firmly on the track so it doesn't tilt even slightly or disengage.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
I appreciate the suggestion.

But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.Larry, we have a dusting (an inch or so) of snow today also. I'd only cut down a panel for transport on a day like this (or what you have) if it were a very desperate situation.

That being said - -don't underestimate the ability for Festool tools to operate nearly dust free..you can (and I have - more than a few times) set up a cutting table in my living room and cut down Luan underlayment &/or plywood.
My cordless Makita is pretty good, but, my Festool is unbelievable - - and I use a Ridgid shop vac, not one of the excellent Festool or equivalent vacs.

I'm not suggesting you can stress your marriage or anything,,,,but,,,Festool DC is out of this world.

[andy bessette]

...clamping the track uses a clamp that inserts into the tee-slot on the bottom of the track...


...All the tracks for tracksaws are designed to be clamped from underneath...

Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for all the clarifications.
Heading out for a bit and will (probably) ask more questions later

[Van Huskey]

Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.

A very germane point. Jim and I were answering the question ask but at least I didn't think to answer the question he might not have known to ask. I rarely (read as I don't remember ever) clamping the tracks for sheet goods cuts but often do for solid wood rips since if they are rough cut they don't offer the same level of friction on the strip that the smooth finish of sheet goods does. That said if he plans to cut at any angle instead of the preferred flat then he would likely need to clamp for the cuts even on sheet goods.

As an aside I do almost all my sheet goods cuts on top of a 2" piece of rigid insulation laying on the floor.

[andy bessette]

...I do almost all my sheet goods cuts on top of a 2" piece of rigid insulation laying on the floor.

When breaking down sheet goods I place a few 4/4-square strips of cheap wood between my 48" x 96" bench top and the workpiece. When trimming or straightening the edge of lumber I simply lay it just off the edge of my bench.

[Jim Becker]

Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.
I've rarely used the clamps myself. They did come in handy a few times when I used the track to cut down something on an existing cabinet in a awkward position or where I was working in cramped quarters and was worried about bumping things off the line while "reaching" too far for my arms. :) But in general, the track does stay put on most material surfaces. I was just providing an answer to the OP's question about clamps interfering with the saw.

[Larry Foster]

Because my momma taught me you can never say thank you too much, I'm saying thank you all again as I work through this.

Was stumbling through Home Depot's site and found something called EZSmart track system which looks kind of interesting because you can use it with most saws.
It's kind of expensive ($349 for 118" track) but I have plenty of saws so I wouldn't have that cost.

Your thoughts are welcome or if you have another direction, it would be welcome.

While checking YouTube I saw they have an EZSmart edge guide which looks like a sturdier, higher quality Kreg Rip Cut.
The video I watched showed them ripping a sheet of plywood while it was sitting vertical.

Since I already own the Kreg one, I wonder if I've had the solution all the time.
And that method might help with my problem of deviating off at the end of that long cut.
Gravity would help keep the edge guide in place.

Since I have the Rip Cut and clamping guides already.
Should I consider investing in more stuff?

[Larry Foster]

Well, I slept on it overnight, watched about 457 YouTube videos:cool:, reread this thread several more times and checked out Festool and am at about 98% on a decision.

Everyone's input was very helpful and appreciated.

I realized that I knew nothing about tracksaws or their capabilities.
Now I know a little more and feel that I can use them vertically which eliminates trying to figure out how to make a panel saw.

I think I'm going with the EZSmart 118" track system.
I haven't found any bad reviews and it seems like a good system.

One advantage to me is that it works with almost any saw.
I just realized that I have 4 different working circular saws. :eek:

That led me away from a system that required me to get another saw.

From being on this forum, Festool seemed like a great product but it's price point put it a little out of my reach.
The EZSmart isn't cheap at $349 either and is near my upper limit.

This is a really great forum filled with generous, helpful people and I appreciate the willingness and patience to help someone like me.
Thank you.

[Van Huskey]

The Eureka Zone stuff is usually high quality and has a group of highly devoted followers though you see much less about their stuff since tracksaws became ubiquitous in the US. I think the main three differences between what you are looking at are the plunge action, better dust control and slightly lighter weight and clunkiness. If the price is the primary motivator for your choice and you aren't in a huge hurry you might want to watch the prices of the Makita and Dewalt over the next few weeks. In any event, I hope you find a system that works well for you given your limited space.

[andy bessette]

My Festool TS55 track saw kit was purchased off c/l for $350.

[Brent Malwicks]

There are many different ones you can get that will do the job well. If you don't intend to ever be far from an outlet when you're working, there's not much reason to go cordless - they're generally more expensive and can be less reliable. But here are the best I've tried and their prices:

- Dewalt DWE575SB ($100-$120)
- Dewalt DCS575T2 FLEXVOLT ($300+)
- BLACK + DECKER BDECS300C ($40)

The Dewalt DWE575SB in particular is light, easy to handle, and cuts very well. It also has a great safety stop feature that lower-end models don't have.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Brent.

As I mentioned a couple posts up, I have 4 circular saws

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Van and Andy.

I did take a quick look at Pittsburgh CL and saw nothing and a couple of my many quirks are impatience and I hate buying some used stuff.

Van, I looked at those Dewalt and Makita and decided I didn't need a 5th saw.
One of the things that attracted me to the EZSmart system was the flexibility of using multiple saws and not being married to one particular saw

[Prashun Patel]

I have an EZ Smart track and it's pretty good. One thing to note is that the depth of cut is limited to about 1.75". That may or may not be an issue for you.
Also, it doesn't have dust collection. I happen to live close to the EZ Smart headquarters and 10 years ago they retro'd my circ saw for free.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Prashun.

It's good to hear validation on one's decisions.

They seem to have a pretty complete system where everything works together.

I was looking at their square and handle combo after seeing a video,

I better make something before I buy too many more tools

[Larry Foster]

In my quest to see how many dumb questions I can ask...

Since I bought the EZSmart Track System that runs on (virtually) all circular saws (and I have 4 circular saws now) would it make any sense to consider buying a dedicated Track Saw down the road?

If so,what advantages might I see?
Thank you

[Jim Becker]

A dedicated track saw may provide potentially better dust collection; potentially better/smoother plunging; potentially easier/faster depth of cut setting. It may also be lighter in weight. The EZSmart system is about the best there is for using an existing circular saw for guided work and a designed-for-purpose track saw is just more optimized for the guided job.

[andy bessette]

To what Jim said, add:

the Festool track saw will provide splinter-free cuts on BOTH sides of a sheet of expensive veneered plywood, can produce glue-ready surfaces and, by virtue of its plunge feature, is vastly safer to use and can start and start cuts anywhere on a panel.

[Larry Foster]

Thank you, Jim and Andy.

After receiving and using my track, I'll evaluate and go from there

[Van Huskey]

Thank you, Jim and Andy.

After receiving and using my track, I'll evaluate and go from there


Buyers remorse should be organic, never ever chase it. :)

That said tracksaws are not designed nor built like a regular circular saw but are designed to live on a track, so they have advantages otherwise most of us with tracksaws would have just gotten Dino's Eureka Zone products. The tracksaw is one of classes (not quality) of tool that produced a paradigm shift in the way I work. The good ones aren't cheap so they take an initial leap of faith.

I would say put tracksaws out of your mind for the moment if the EZ Smart system doesn't meet you needs then revisit, if it does meet your needs then all is good.

[Larry Foster]

That's probably good advice, Van.

I just need shop time before I buy anything else.

It's amazing how many time stealers there are for a "retired" guy.

[Rich Engelhardt]

It's amazing how many time stealers there are for a "retired" guy.Oh do I hear you there brother!!! My time quit being my own ~ 7 years ago when I 'tired...

Anyhow back on track (groan - I know bad pun ;) )
I do have to say that one area my Festool TS55 EQ excels at is it's ability to stop at any point in a cut, remove the saw, then place it back on the track and finish the cut - and not leave any trace of that happening.
My cordless Makita can't do that.

As you use a track saw more and more, you'll find that surprisingly often, you run into that. With the cramped space you have, you might run into that on a fairly regular basis.

Also - don't discount either the plunge feature or the riving knife (Festool) and lack of one (Makita). The riving knife is the only feature my Makita cordless lacks that would make it "perfect" for me.

[lowell holmes]

This string is like asking do you like blondes, brunets, or read heads.

[Larry Foster]

All of the above?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Ok - we had a break in the weather yesterday.
Here's a few pictures I took of the cutting setup I rigged up.

The hinged 2x4 are supporting the one table & on the other table, I have the Veritas platform saddles (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=75861&cat=51&ap=3). These things got a not so kind reception a few months ago when they were introduced.
I find them an extremely valuable aid & well worth the $25 or so I have invested in them.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for showing that Rich.

Looks like a pretty good idea

[Pat McCormick]

I have a Milwaukee Fuel that I love. Battery runs for a heck of a long time between charges - like all day. It’s lighter, stronger & eliminates the cord hassles of the Skil saw it replaced. It even has a bracket to quickly hang it from any 2x lumber. I worried about going to battery but I haven’t ever looked back.