keller dovetail jig problems

[Jim Colombo]

Has anyone else had this problem with the Keller 1500 dovetail jig. The tails are much smaller than the pins. I'm guessing the block the jig is mounted on has to be moved, so less material is taken off the pins and more from the tails, but I'm hesitant to try it.

I tried caller Dave Keller but only got a machine and no call back so any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, the support block placement is part of building the device. How to do this is covered in the instructions included with the template. Did you not get the printed instructions?

[Jim Colombo]

I did and the block measures 2.244" and is right on the scribed line.

Jim

[Mark Hennebury]

I did and the block measures 2.244" and is right on the scribed line.

Jim

Jim, you need to look analyze and understand, not just follow what you "think" the rules are. If you examine the jig you will see that you have slotted screw holes for adjustment of the position of your wood block. You will also see that the jig pins are straight on one side meaning the placement of the wood block will not affect the width of the cut on that side. The pins on the other side of the jig are tapered meaning the placement of the block on that side will affect the amount cut from your dovetail.
The screws can be loosened and the block moved to tighten or loosen the fit of your joint. Don't be afraid to afraid to experiment.

Your statement itself is a little confusing as it is conflicted; The tails are much smaller than the pins. I'm guessing the block the jig is mounted on has to be moved, so less material is taken off the pins and more from the tails

[Jim Colombo]

Thanks Mark. That's what I thought. I have to move the jig on the block to take off more on the tail side and less on the pin side.

Jim

[Mark Hennebury]

Thanks Mark. That's what I thought. I have to move the jig on the block to take off more on the tail side and less on the pin side.

Jim
Jim, just play around a bit with it make a cut move the block see what changes, it will soon make sense to you. They are great dovetail jigs, i have used them many times. Good luck. Mark

[Jim Colombo]

fought this thing all afternoon in 108 degree heat adjusting in/out and anyway. never got a good fit. I'm returning it in the morning. BTW those cutters hate plywood.

Frustrated and overheated.

Jim

[Steve Jenkins]

It’s too bad you can’t seem to get it to work. I’ve used one for years and hundreds of drawers. Are you using the bits that came with the jig ? If the bearing on the straight cutter isn’t a snug fit it’s not going to work right

[Mark Hennebury]

fought this thing all afternoon in 108 degree heat adjusting in/out and anyway. never got a good fit. I'm returning it in the morning. BTW those cutters hate plywood.

Frustrated and overheated.

Jim

Hi Jim, post a couple of photos and maybe we can sort this out, these are great jigs, the essence of simplicity; you should have no problem getting a tight fit. something doesn't add up and a photo may clarify.

[Jim Colombo]

Wouldn't you know it. Just after I got the jig packaged Dave Keller called me and together we tried to work it out on the phone. He had me taking measurements of the jig and the wood. The upshot of the deal is I'm going to return the jig to him along with some of my sample cuts so he can see what the problem is. He seems like a real nice guy and I hope he figures it out. Probably user error.

I can take pictures if you want Mark but basically the pins were too big for the tails no matter how far back or forward I set the block from the scribe line. The closest I came to a fit took a hammer and some hard pounding. Not what we wanted at all.

Jim

[Mark Hennebury]

Wouldn't you know it. Just after I got the jig packaged Dave Keller called me and together we tried to work it out on the phone. He had me taking measurements of the jig and the wood. The upshot of the deal is I'm going to return the jig to him along with some of my sample cuts so he can see what the problem is. He seems like a real nice guy and I hope he figures it out. Probably user error.

I can take pictures if you want Mark but basically the pins were too big for the tails no matter how far back or forward I set the block from the scribe line. The closest I came to a fit took a hammer and some hard pounding. Not what we wanted at all.

Jim

Hi Jim, please post a few photos, include some of the router bits that you used and your setup please, as i am quite curious. Thanks

[Jeff Ramsey]

David is a nice guy and was always very responsive to my questions. Regarding your comment about plywood, you'll find if you back up the piece you're cutting, you'll get little or no tear out. Not too long ago, I made 20 plywood drawers for a shop bench and they came out just fine with Keller's jig.

[Jim Colombo]

here are the bits. Dave confirms they are the right bits.
391822

Here is the pins and tails

391823

here are the oversized pins
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[Steve Jenkins]

I hope you don’t take offense but you do know that you have to stand the pinboard on end and press it down into the tail board

[Jim Colombo]

No offense taken the boards were placed like that for the pictures.

Jim

[Mark Hennebury]

Jim, It looks like you need to adjust the position of the reference block screwed to the jig. As you can see from the sketches, moving the position of your piece drastically changes the size of the tail opening and the pins. Moving your wood toward the widest part of the Vee makes your tail gaps the widest and your pins the smallest. Moving your wood in toward the smallest part of the Vee makes your tails gap the smallest and your pins the widest, which seems to be what you ave done.
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