Two bandsaw setup?

[Joe Lazar]

Hey there folks,

I'm looking at upgrading my bandsaw situation. Right now I've got a 14" Delta that's 3/4 HP and has about 6" of resaw capacity.

I know for certain I'll go with something more powerful (have my eye on the Rikon 10-326) , especially for resawing. But I was wondering how many of you go with two bandsaws: one larger more powerful saw for resawing, and another smaller, cheaper saw for cutting curves.

Of course I can go with one saw and just change blades. But time is my biggest limitation. The more time I can spend cutting and the less changing blades and calibrating, the better.

Anyone out there rock two bandsaws? How does a smaller bandsaw work out if all you are doing is cutting curves? Thanks in advance!

[David Kumm]

Two bandsaws are a no brainer if you have the room and the need for both scroll and resaw work. If you go that route you should upgrade to a more true resaw though. Something like the MM16 or even the heavy Grizzly type 17" but it should have a stout frame. There is no point using up the space for a machine that isn't engineered for your purpose. You can resaw with a lesser machine but it is slow and the benefit of the stout frame is so you can put a carbide 3/4-1" blade on it and leave it forever. Dave

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Joe,
Welcome to SMC!

I have a 12" JET for routine work and a Rikon 325 that has a wide blade for resawing. This arrangement works well for the things I like to build.

BTW, Woodcraft has a 15% off sale on Rikon right now, if you get serious about a 326. There are of course other choices in that price range - Grizzly, Laguna, etc - and I`m sure others will mention those.

Fred

[Nick Decker]

I imagine the Rikon 15% off thing will be available through other dealers as well. I have the 10-326 and am very happy with it. Regularly resaw 10" hardwoods, no problem. I think it would manage 12" but I've never tried it.

If I had room, I'd probably run two saws.

[Darcy Warner]

I have 3 36" saws set up at the moment.

[John K Jordan]

The utility of two might depend on what you use it for and how often you want to switch blades.

I have two bandsaws for wood (not counting the Woodmizer sawmill). One is an older 14" Delta 115v with a riser block. The other is an 18" Rikon, 230v. Both will resaw 12" or a bit more.

I use the larger saw the most, usually with a 1/2" 3tpi blade. I use it the most for processing woodturning blocks and blanks from green wood, for shaping dry blanks for woodturning, and for miscellaneous shop use (jigs, templates, occasionally flatwood projects, etc). I have a smaller blade on the smaller saw. The smaller saw in on a mobile base since my space is not infinite.

Changing blades is time consuming, mostly to get the tension and tracking right and to reset the guides. If you have the space and money and consider yourself worth it, go for the second saw!

JKJ


Hey there folks,

I'm looking at upgrading my bandsaw situation. Right now I've got a 14" Delta that's 3/4 HP and has about 6" of resaw capacity.

I know for certain I'll go with something more powerful (have my eye on the Rikon 10-326) , especially for resawing. But I was wondering how many of you go with two bandsaws: one larger more powerful saw for resawing, and another smaller, cheaper saw for cutting curves.

Of course I can go with one saw and just change blades. But time is my biggest limitation. The more time I can spend cutting and the less changing blades and calibrating, the better.

Anyone out there rock two bandsaws? How does a smaller bandsaw work out if all you are doing is cutting curves? Thanks in advance!

[John TenEyck]

I have a 14" Delta with riser and 1.5 hp motor. There are those that will tell you that it can do anything you need. And, actually, it can. But it sure can't resaw or slice veneer with enough speed to be called anything other than painful. I started making so much veneer that the pain just got to be too much, so I bought a Grizzly G0636X 17", 5 HP bandsaw. It has a very stiff frame and can easily put 30K psi on a 1" blade. With a 1" Woodmaster CT it slices 12" or wider veneer as fast as you can push wood through it. I leave it set up for resaw/veneer slicing exclusively. On the Delta I typically have a 3/8" x 4 tpi blade and I use it for everything else.

If you are considering an upgrade to make resawing a pleasure instead of a pain don't settle for good enough, because that's what you already have. If you are going to the expense and effort to put another BS in your shop make sure it will truly meet your needs. For me, that meant at least 14" of resaw height and 5 HP. There are many folks, including me, who think you need around 1 HP for every 3 - 4" of resaw height. So if you want to efficiently saw 12" you need 3 - 4 HP. At 16", like my Grizzly, you need 4 - 5 HP.

You will never regret having a saw with a heavy, stiff frame and plenty of power.

John

[Randy Heinemann]

Two bandsaws - one for resawing and one for curve cutting - is a great idea. There is a school of thought that a blade used for resawing should never be used for cutting curves to avoid taking the set out of the teeth while overheating the blade going around curves. Don't know if that is true, but it sounds reasonable. Plus a blade and saw dedicated to resawing would keep that blade sharper longer and you wouldn't have to change blades as often. However, I would agree that, if you are going to own a bandsaw dedicated to resawing, a larger, heavier duty saw, would be preferable; maybe an 18" or 20" would be the next step up if you are a frequent resawer. I'm sure there are at least several on the market in the 18" - 20" range that would suit your needs. Just never had a need for anything bigger than 14" to be able to recommend a brand or model.

[glenn bradley]

Two bandsaws here as well. I started out changing blades a lot. Wanted a bigger saw and foolishly sold the smaller saw after buying the larger one. Had to buy another smaller saw. I still change blades without much hesitation but, can leave my resaw blade on the larger saw most of the time.

[Bradley Gray]

3 band saws here; 1/8" blade for smalls on a 12" saw. 3/8" blade on a 32" for furniture parts and a resaw with 1 1/4" blade.

[Andrew Hughes]

I’d like to have a third bandsaw.
I used to have two planers and two jointers ready to work
I have one table saw, I hate table saws :mad:

[Mike Cutler]

I have 3 36" saws set up at the moment.

36"! wow, that's gotta be fun. :cool:

To The OP
Yes, I have two bandsaws. A 14" Jet and an 18" Rikon. Having two band saws is a nice option.

[Joe Lazar]

This is great, thanks all. Question though, assuming I get a larger saw dedicated to resawing (which may be out of my budget, but that's another discussion), what's the smallest bandsaw you guys roll with for the curved cuts? I see these tiny 10" models, and assume they are underpowered, and more "toys" than truly useful machine. But then again I think we all dream and spend big when often we don't have to.

Thoughts?

[Bradley Gray]

Since that you already have a 14" saw, get new guides aimed at running a small blade. I am fond of Lennox 1/8"-14T and I run them with "Cool-Blocks" - graphite guides that run tight against the blade.

Starrett makes a ball bearing guide with a groove that supports the blade which looks interesting, but I have not tried it.

[Frederick Skelly]

The smallest size that's sufficient for you will depend on how thick a board you want to cut curves in, and what kind of woods you use. The 10" Rikon gets good-enough reviews for what it is. My 12" JET cuts curves in 3-4" thick material when needed - I just slow down.

Fred

[Darcy Warner]

36"! wow, that's gotta be fun. :cool:

To The OP
Yes, I have two bandsaws. A 14" Jet and an 18" Rikon. Having two band saws is a nice option.

I have a 10" and 14" as well, but see no point in anything smaller than a 30" saw.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have had a Jet 18" for several years and this spring I got a Rikon 10-305 (10") after asking for advice here on SC. I keep a 1/2" 3 TPI blade on the Jet and use it for ripping, resawing and cutting banjo rim blocks with a miter gauge. I also use it to cut curves that are bigger than a 3 or 4" radius. I have a 1/4" blade in the 10" saw and use it to cut out pegheads, for the little curves at the heels of necks and so on, any tighter curves. It has been a big help. I have cut 2-3" thick wood with the little Rikon and it cuts nicely, though not extremely fast. In my work I need precision more than speed and since I'm not cutting huge volumes of wood I am not worried that my saws might be considered underpowered for a higher-production shop.
Zach

[Darcy Warner]

Just because one has a big saw, doesn't mean it's not precise.

[Michelle Rich]

I have a 14" grizzly and used it to resaw for awhile..it was slow. I then decided to use the griz for curved work, and bought a rikon 325 ( pre-326). I use it to resaw. I use a 1/2 highland blade as it does everything I need. Is it fast as blazes? no. But it is fast enough to be quite useable and I don't make thousands of board feet of veneer every week. I am pleased with my choice. If you are not going commecrial, or starting a veneer business, I think your choice is reasonable and economical.

[Marc Burt]

I have a 19” grizzly and LOATHE changing the blades. If I could spare the room at all I would absolutely buy a 14” saw for cutting curves and the like.

[Terry Therneau]

I also have 2 bandsaws, a 14" Walker Turner and a 26" Moak. It is nice to keep a small blade on the 14. If you want a bigger saw don't neglect the used market. Bandsaws were once a staple of furniture factories and have been replaced by CNC, and you can often find a good one for quite reasonable dollars ($1100 for my Moak, and the prior owner delivered it!).

Terry T

[David Powell]

I too have 2 bandsaws; a 14" Delta with the riser set up with a 1/4" blade and Carter guides for curves and a Grizzly 17" with a 3/4" carbide Laguna Resaw King. I don't miss having to stop and change blades.

Dave

[Darcy Warner]

I also have 2 bandsaws, a 14" Walker Turner and a 26" Moak. It is nice to keep a small blade on the 14. If you want a bigger saw don't neglect the used market. Bandsaws were once a staple of furniture factories and have been replaced by CNC, and you can often find a good one for quite reasonable dollars ($1100 for my Moak, and the prior owner delivered it!).

Terry T

They only made about 300 of those 26" Moaks. Nice saws.

[Dave Cav]

I have a MM 20" and a 14", an older, smaller version of the Grizzly G0817 14" steel frame bandsaw. The 20" has a 1" WM CT on it all the time and is used for ripping and resaw, and generally I have a 3/16 or 1/4" on the Grizzly for scroll and utility work.

(I have two table saws, too. The PM 65 generally has a fine crosscut blade and the Delta 12/14 usually has a rip blade. And don't forget the RAS...)

[Joe Lazar]

Thanks a bunch, Michelle. I think given my needs, keeping the 14" Delta will be the way to go. Some new guides and the right blade, and I'll be curvin' it up.

Now to make room on the shop floor...

[Keith Hankins]

Yep had two for a long time. I had a 17" griz 2hp hd saw that was a one fits all. Major PIA to change over form big blade to small blade and adjust. I did that for a long time till a 1934, delta 14" came on the market for 200 bucks. I have that set up with small blade and carter blade stabilizer. Great for cutting small circles and handles most of my work now. I have the Griz set up and dialed in with a carbide 1" blade for resaw. Best of both worlds. Definitely go for it! (I've got a 16" walker turner in parts as a project saw, but may even sell that one. don't know if I can justify 3. Cheers.

[Brian Nguyen]

I have a two BS setup as well--a cheap Craftsman 14" with a 3/8 (?) blade for general and curves, and a Rikon 10-326 14" for resawing. They take up quite the footprints but I got the layouts to work okay enough to justify not having to swap blades all the time.

[Bill Adamsen]

I have had this setup for some time. Works for me. Sometimes I have to wiggle the little Delta a bit further out into the shop and then wiggle it back when done.

[tom lucas]

Two bandsaws here. I use a 17" grizzly for resaw and general straight cuts in thicker stock. I have a 14" fitted with a Carter stablizer bearing on a 1/4" bimetal blade (fine toothed, 14 tpi, I think) for curved cuts, and cuts in thinner, and soft material. Love the Carter stablizer and the bimetal holds up well. Cuts plywood pretty cleanly. I seldom run thick material thru the 14" bandsaw, but have made a few bandsaw boxes. For that, I change to a coarser blade, like 8 tpi.

[Van Huskey]

I don't have (only) two bandsaw, only because 2 is merely a start...

Often people go with a smaller bandsaw for contour cutting but larger saws also have benefits for cutting contours as well.

As far as machines go bandsaws are one of the few you see multiples of in a hobby shop, primarily because changing tooling is so involved.