Tips on how to locate studs in walls

[Lee Schierer]

In a recent thread there was an individual that was having difficulty locating studs in a plaster wall. I posted a suggestion that has worked for me and I'm sure there are other non-destructive ways to find studs in walls. Here are five ways I came up with for locating studs:

Tricks for finding studs:
1. Use a stud finder or metal detector to locate nails or screws hidden by plaster or dry wall. (The "Little Wizard" metal detector works well for this.)
2. Use rare earth magnets to locate nails or screws in the wall.
3. Light switches and wall outlets are usually mounted with a stud either to the left or to the right. The next stud will generally be 16" from that one.
4. Studs are usually within 16" of a room corner, window or door opening though they may be closer in some instances. Once you find one the next one is usually 16" away.
5. Remove the base trim and drilling holes to locate a stud. The next stud should be 16" from that one. The holes can be covered by new base trim.

Please post your methods

[Nick Decker]

Good tips. Another one, for use in garages like mine where the drywallers weren't real careful, is to sight along the wall. You'll often see slight indentations (or bumps) where the nail heads are.

[Ellen Benkin]

I use the tapping method where I can hear the difference between a stud and the space between studs. I am very accurate as proven when I double check with a stud finder.

[Jim Becker]

I have had a simple, battery powered "stud finder" for decades and it's what I use for this kind of job. It rarely fails to do what I need done and has felt pads on the surface so it doesn't mark the wall, either. It was inexpensive, too...

[John K Jordan]

1. Use a stud finder or metal detector to locate nails or screws hidden by plaster or dry wall. (The "Little Wizard" metal detector works well for this.)
2. Use rare earth magnets to locate nails or screws in the wall.
3. Light switches and wall outlets are usually mounted with a stud either to the left or to the right. The next stud will generally be 16" from that one.
4. Studs are usually within 16" of a room corner, window or door opening though they may be closer in some instances. Once you find one the next one is usually 16" away.
5. Remove the base trim and drilling holes to locate a stud. The next stud should be 16" from that one. The holes can be covered by new base trim.


Good list. I use those methods plus tapping. If I'm going to be patching the wall anyway I often just drill a line of small diameter holes across the wall, drill just enough to penetrate and not chance contacting an electrical cable. Fast and extremely accurate! I used this method recently to verify a stud location when drilling through new shower tile on the other side of the wall to mount a grab bar.

When building a new wall take a moment to photograph the studs after the electrical is run and before the sheet rock or paneling goes up. Print paper copies of the photos, can save a lot of time years later.

JKJ

[Van Huskey]

I have a Zircon e50, about $20 and detects studs up to 1.5" deep so useful for plaster which is often deeper than 3/4" which is the limit of some scanners. It also detects hot AC. You normally don't use the deep scan unless you need to since in standard drywall covered walls don't require more than 3/4" and the deep scan can pick up pipes or conduit. There are all sorts of free and easy ways to find studs but for $20 I think one of the decent scanning studfinders is worth having around but even if you own one knowing tricks is useful since you may not always have the studfinder handy.

[Jim Allen]

I use the Franklin Prosensor 710, a little expensive but works well, multiple LEDs shows the location of the stud.

[Tom M King]

Look where the nails are in baseboard. That 710 is the best thing ever for putting up crown molding.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Recently hung some cabinets on a wall framed with metal studs. On a couple studs, we located top screw with no problem, but bottom screw completely missed stud. At bottom, stud would be approx 1.5" to the right. Finally figured out that framer had scabbed scraps together to complete the wall, thus the offset.

[Bill Orbine]

Another method is to hold a light (such as a flashlight) close as possible to wall shining the beam across the face of wall. You'll find some screw or nail indentations or pops. There will always be at least a couple.

[Bob Michaels1]

All good responses. I'll just add most good framers will layout the ceiling joists over the studs. If studs can't be detected in the walls try the same methods on the ceiling, especially the skimming light to locate screws or nails.

[Dan Friedrichs]

+1 on the Franklin Prosensor. Has a row of LEDs that shows you the exact width of the stud.

[julian abram]

I use a Zircon stud finder until I start questioning it's accuracy, then I get out a hammer & 16 penny nail. Hammer and nail are 100% accurate every time.:)

[Floyd Mah]

German Shepherd dog. Honestly. My dog was walking near the wall, suddenly froze in his tracks and proceeded to investigate a slight dimple in the plaster that overlaid a fastener in the sheetrock. His ability to pick up a scent is remarkable, but I would have never guessed he could locate a screw in the wall.

Anyway, here's a trick that I've used, besides the metal detector. I have a cheap Harbor Freight metal detector that is invaluable in locating metal screws or nails hidden in the wall, but it is only good as a proximity sensor. In a situation where I was trying to remove wood trim by driving the nails into the wood (to free the trim and avoid damaging the trim more), I used the metal detector to give me an approximate location. Then I used a carbide scriber that has an attached neodymium magnet to show me the exact location of the nail. They are so powerful that they attach to the trim.

Hate stud finders. Maybe I have the wrong brand, but the HF metal detector has worked the best for me.

[Keith Outten]

Installing signs for many years has caused me to use just about every method of finding studs including my knuckle and several of the stud finders mentioned above. Each works pretty good but I have added one more and that's a metal detecting pin pointer, I have a Garrett Carrot orange model. The pin pointer will find conduit, pipe and electrical cable even if it is located off the wall surface and you can tune it to provide more accurate results. A bit pricey but worth the money for some people.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7F05gTtA2U

[Bernie Kopfer]

Have to suggest that the Shinwa Rules pin stud finder is my go to finder when the powered stud finders fail. For less than fifteen bucks at Amazon it has saved me a ton of grief. My tile installer immediately ordered two when I showed him how quickly it could be used to find the edge of a stud in difficult situations.

[Mike Kreinhop]

With standard construction what it is in Germany, I don't bother looking for studs, but I do have to look for rebar, water pipes, and electrical distribution embedded in the masonry before I start drilling. I've tried some of the detectors above, but the only tool that works consistently for me is the Bosch D-Tect 150 (https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/stud-finders-d-tect-150-29179-p/). It is very pricey, but works well for nearly anything embedded in concrete, including plastic pipes. It also indicates the depth of the item detected, so I can decide to drill anyway or find another spot.

[Wayne Jolly]

Two questions.

1. The OP was talking about a plaster wall. Not knowing anything about plaster walls, isn't there something like chicken wire in there to give the plaster something to hold on to, and wouldn't that play havoc with a stud finder??

2. Aside from #1, has anyone tried the Walabot? My wife bought me one for fathers day and it looks pretty kool. It is an attachment for a cell phone and will actually show you where the studs are through drywall, or concrete walls. It will also show wiring, plumbing, and mice.

Wayne

[Jim Becker]

Wayne, that's a good point and question. A "finder" that has adjustable characteristics can help with that so it will differentiate between "just lath and/or wire" and a stud location.

[Bill Dufour]

OP here: The house was built in 1948. it has 1/2" button board which is a drywall with one inch holes every six inches or so. That is nailed up then about 1/2" of plaster is troweled on top some gets pushed through the holes to key it in similar to lath and plaster but no wood lath is used.
They did use hardware cloth on the internal corners of the tub area in the bathroom. No idea if they use that elsewhere since it is only in the tub area that I have pulled the drywall down.
Bill D

[Lee Schierer]

OP here: The house was built in 1948. it has 1/2" button board which is a drywall with one inch holes every six inches or so. That is nailed up then about 1/2" of plaster is troweled on top some gets pushed through the holes to key it in similar to lath and plaster but no wood lath is used.
They did use hardware cloth on the internal corners of the tub area in the bathroom. No idea if they use that elsewhere since it is only in the tub area that I have pulled the drywall down.
Bill D

My house is made with 1/2" blue board with a coat of plaster. Most of the walls are close to 3/4" thick. My stud finder has little trouble finding the studs and the little wizard finds the nails holding the blue board to the studs. Knocking on the wall with your knuckle will result in a sore knuckle more than finding a stud.

[Todd Bender]

I used to use a drill bit on occassion until I drilled a hole in a pex pipe resting against the inside of the drywall. I use a finish nail and 12oz hammer because it doesn't lie like stud finders do and it doesn't easily perforate water lines.

[Mike Ontko]

I locate studs using a combination of tapping (a crude form of echo location, I guess), looking for bumps or indentations from screws and bad drywall tape jobs, and using a battery powered stud finder as a confirmation. It also helps to have a basic understanding of interior and exterior wall framing, to have a general idea where 16" vs 24" spacing could be, and the application and locations of cripple studs, king studs, jack studs, headers, etc.

My stud finder is a cheapie Stanley, with different selections for finding studs through different thicknesses of wall coverings.

[Wade Lippman]

I use the Franklin Prosensor 710, a little expensive but works well, multiple LEDs shows the location of the stud.
Wonderful little tool!

[Wade Lippman]

2. Aside from #1, has anyone tried the Walabot? My wife bought me one for fathers day and it looks pretty kool. It is an attachment for a cell phone and will actually show you where the studs are through drywall, or concrete walls. It will also show wiring, plumbing, and mice.

Wayne

Have you used it? I saw the ads and wanted one bad; but the reviews pretty much all say it is junk.

[Tom M King]

A round, rare earth magnet, held in your hand, and rolled around the wall will attach itself to any metal inside the wall. You don't need a very large one. They're handy for a number of different locating uses. Check out the Chimney Flashing page on my website if you're interested in my whole process on a Cypress shingle roof:

http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/CIMG1759.JPG

[Martin Wasner]

Hanging cabinets? Keyhole saw. Jam it in the sheetrock behind where a cabinet is going and cut until you find lumber.

Then you have the guessing game of 16oc, or was it laid out on diamonds?

Probably not the best method for hanging a picture though

[scott vroom]

Hanging cabinets? Keyhole saw. Jam it in the sheetrock behind where a cabinet is going and cut until you find lumber.

...and hope you don't find romex first.:cool:

[Jim Becker]

...and hope you don't find romex first.:cool:
Exactly my first thought... LOL Bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz......

[Bill Conerly]

Finding nails not same as finding studs. I told my architect brother i had a stud that's not vertical. He laughed and assured me the stud was vertical, but the sheetrock guy just shoots nails left and right. Nails are cheap, time spent aiming is expensive.

[Wayne Jolly]

Have you used it? I saw the ads and wanted one bad; but the reviews pretty much all say it is junk.

I have not used it for a "real" job yet, but I have played with it a little. I have a wall where the studs are already marked, and the Walabot agreed with all of them. It also found something that I didn't know was there. It found an electrical cable that runs up the wall to the room above it. I thought that was kinda kool.

Wayne

[Martin Wasner]

...and hope you don't find romex first.:cool:
Most of the time. No outlet, no wire.

No tickee, no laundry.

But thanks for that. Next time I do it, you've damned me to crapping in Sparky's lunch bucket.

[Wayne Jolly]

...and hope you don't find romex first.:cool:

I learned my lesson about this one. Many years ago I was drilling a hole through the ceiling in a bedroom into the attic and hit the 220V power line to the kitchen a room away. I didn't know that many sparks would be generated before the circuit breaker flipped. Holy Excrement Batman! I think most of the sparks came from the melted spade bit I was using. That was an expensive mistake, but I was lucky in that the house was still standing. It would have been very easy for those sparks to have set something on fire, but I think the only things that got burned that day was my hair and my ego.

Wayne

[lowell holmes]

I have a Zircon stud finder. IIRC, I bought it a Lowes or Home depot.

[Bill Adamsen]

Two tricks and an old standby.

Stick Trim Nail
For sheetrock, an inch and three-quarter 18 gauge trim nail (1/64" dia.) can be driven through rock leaving virtually no trace. I just cut them off a stick of trim nails. I used to use regular 3d or 4d trim nails ... but the stick nails are much thinner and less destructive. The 4d finish nails are 5/64" diameter which is just 5X the diameter of an 18ga stick trim nail ... but about 25X the frontal surface area. So significantly harder to drive through sheetrock and with the additional force, much more destructive.

Flashlight
Wherever I work (besides my shop) always seems darker than I'd prefer. Advantage is that a flashlight shown upwards against the wall quickly shows screw heads almost no matter how good the taping job. Of course, as others have pointed out ... nothing says that screw was centered on the stud or that the stud is indeed plumb, or that the drywaller put screws or nails into every stud.

Studfinder
I recently read a review of stud finders and decided to buy one for a job. The one I purchased was a Welquic 3-in-1 unit (same unit sold under many brands) on a "lightning deal" at Amazon. It cost $8 (no battery) and it works pretty well. The instructions were too small to read. While I wouldn't use it to install trim, it helps avoid surprises. But it can also be frustratingly inconsistent reducing one's confidence.

[lowell holmes]

https://www.homedepot.com/s/stud%2520finder?NCNI-5

Just pick out one of these and quit worrying about it. I have the Zircon and it works great on sheet rock walls.

[Tim Einwalter]

I use a Precision Sensors stud finder. Unit works great, finds the stud the first time and you don't need to keep swinging it while you are trying to find the studs center. I especially like it for drywall and trim work. I'll hold the sensor in my left hand and the nail or screw gun in my right. Find the stud, set the fastener. Just that fast. I don't even bother to mark the wall.