My First Block Plane

[Mike Randall]

I'm ready to add my first block plane for general wood working. Any suggestions for under $100?

[glenn bradley]

I have other block planes but the Veritas Apron Plane (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,230,41182,48942) gets reached for more than any other.

[Prashun Patel]

Everyone loves the 60 1/2’s. But my favorites are the smaller fixed planes.

I have a lie Neilson 102 and a Veritas apron. Both in your price range.

[Jessica de Boer]

I have other block planes but the Veritas Apron Plane (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,230,41182,48942) gets reached for more than any other.

The same here. I love that little plane, especially with the PM-V11 blade.

[Lee Schierer]

I have other block planes but the Veritas Apron Plane (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,230,41182,48942) gets reached for more than any other.

I have one of these and it is great for small clean ups and fine tuning.

[phil harold]

stanely 60 1/2
miller falls 56 0r 36
I like low angle adjustable mouths on my block planes

[Robert Engel]

Don't get a newer model Stanley.
The old onesy run anywhere from $50-75 on Ebay.

I have regular and low angle WoodRivers. I like them a lot because they're a bit bigger and heavier.

[Jim Koepke]

When it comes to block planes my favorites are the low angle block planes like the #60 & 60-1/2. The standard angle block planes are pretty much like a bench plane. Though recently one was purchased at an estate sale. Dang, at $3 it was almost like they were twisting my arm.

It is nice to have an adjustable mouth for working on curves.

The low angle excels on end grain.

Mike, if you are in my area you are welcome to come give a few block planes a test drive.

Here is an old post on block planes you may want to look at before you buy:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123401-Fettle-to-the-Metal-With-LA-Blocks&p=1246005#post1246005

The low priced plane would start cutting with the blade barely extended. It also had other problems. A little work made it into a useable plane, but not as good as one of my older planes of the same model or a new one from LN or LV.

jtk

[steven c newman]

390493
The main users in the shop....

[Blair Swanson]

I thought I'd insert another consideration for the OP. I had combined the Veritas LA block plane & LA small smoother (#3 equiv.) sensibilities together.( Lee Valley on their site even proposes the similarity if applying the retro fit as I've done. With an extra iron or 2, one can cover the areas that normally would require both planes, with obvious compromise. For one, the 1-5/8" vs 1-3/4" on the small smoother, & not quite as much mass. Not a significant drawback for me. I have smoothed white oak with no problem using a PM-V11 blade / 45º cut w/slight camber. I am very pleased with the handling ease.
It's been a quick & simple transformation I find, from one application to the other. ( & far more economical if that is an issue as it is for me.)
The Veritas tote & front knob are available as retro fit. The photo of the blade edge is that cambered 45º cut (33º secondary on a 12º bed / standard 25º iron.(it's actually 23º primary) I'd previously used it honed with the 2º secondary & you can see the camber on top of that & w/ radiused corners.

Blair.

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[Charlie Hinton]

I tried a Stanley, if I remember correctly it cost $35 from Amazon. Even though it was rated >4 stars it was a complete piece of junk. I worked on it extensively and finally got it useable but it never would hold adjustment and was just frustrating every time I tried to use it.
I finally I bought a WoodRiver low angle block plane and it's a completely different animal. The sole was flat out of the box, the blade required minimal effort to get the backside flat and it holds adjustment really well.

[Rob Luter]

Here are some choices that have worked for me:

From left to right: Millers Falls #56 Low Angle, Stanley #60 1/2P Low Angle, LN #60 1/2 Low Angle, Stanley #65 Low Angle, Stanley #18 Std Angle. Excepting the LN 60 1/2, I paid $35 or less for all specimens. I had to clean them all up, lap the bottoms, sharpen the irons, etc.. Time well spent. Since this photo was taken I've divested myself of the Millers Falls #56 and Stanley 60 1/2P as they were redundant to the LN 60 1/2. I added a LN #102 Low Angle Block. At $115 it's just a bit more than your budget but a great user.

Don't dismiss the old Stanleys. They can be purchased at bargain prices and with a bit of tuning will perform to a high level. Try to find a model with adjustable mouth. The low angle versions work great on end grain. A spare blade ground at a higher angle can be used in order to simulate a std. angle block.


https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8742/28396745450_3730897266_b.jpg

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https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?node=4072

[Brian Nguyen]

My first block plane is a vintage Stanley 60 1/2 that I bought fully restored for $50. The wife subsequently gifted to me a new Veritas DX60 which looks pretty sweet but I still reach for the Stanley because it just works great.

[Jim Koepke]

Don't dismiss the old Stanleys. They can be purchased at bargain prices and with a bit of tuning will perform to a high level.

My experience with the old Stanleys is similar. There is a period where the castings look rough under the japanning. You may want to avoid the ones from those years.

The #65 with the knuckle joint cap are very comfortable to use. They are a bit wider than the #60 series.

jtk

[steven c newman]

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These are what I started out with......LONG AGO...the #3 here was a Union. The block plane was a Stanley No. 110 that I bought new. Blue japanning, and a chrome cap...I wore the poor thing out.
The picture was taken long after I had bought it. The Great Neck #4 is the second one I ever owned. The first one more or less fell apart.

The little block plane just about did it all, back before there was a New Yankee Workshop.....was about the only plane I had in the shop, that actually worked. Even used it to flatten glued up panels...of pallet wood. helped build a 10 drawer chest on chest.....after watching Norm build one.

[Rob Luter]

The #65 with the knuckle joint cap are very comfortable to use. They are a bit wider than the #60 series.

Good point. A bit longer too. The #65 fits right between the #2 and #3 smoothers.

#2 = 7" L x 1 5/8" W
#65 = 7" L x 1 3/4" W
#3 = 8" L x 1 3/4" W

[Jim Koepke]

#65 = 7" L x 1 3/4" W

My recollection is the #65 has a 1-5/8" wide blade.

A quick look at Blood & Gore indicates it did have a 1-3/4" blade until 1909 when it went to a !-5/8" blade.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

My recollection is the #65 has a 1-5/8" wide blade.

A quick look at Blood & Gore indicates it did have a 1-3/4" blade until 1909 when it went to a !-5/8" blade.

jtk

Yup. I stand corrected. I thought I had an older one. It’s a number 2 sized block. The shame :o

[Brett Luna]

Don't get a newer model Stanley.

I mostly agree with Robert but I'd say, don't buy a run-of-the-mill hardware store Stanley. When I seriously got back into woodworking a few years ago, The Wife gifted me a modern Stanley Sweetheart #60½. Robert's experience notwithstanding, I've used the hell out of it with satisfaction.