Electric splicing

[Bruce Volden]

I am in the middle of refurbishing my 120 y/o barn. New tin roof, squaring barn to foundation......
I have aluminum overhead power at present. Just took it DOWN this morning.

Can I splice the overhead wires to the underground wires about 4 ft. up the pole and make my run to barn?
I would be putting U-gard on the pole and covering the splice area also.

It seems like a no brainer to me---that is why I have to ask!??! I'm sure someone will know. TIA

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

I don't know the specifications, but I do know that the Aluminum drop has to be handled in a very specific way for splicing. Our drop from the head to the meter box is aluminum, as is the 100' foot underground leg to my shop building (because at the time we upgraded our service, it was more economical due to copper costs at the time for the "big" cables) and I do remember the electrician doing the work had to insure things were done in certain way. This isn't so material to the "where" that you ask about, but I likely is also important for the job.

[Bruce Volden]

Jim

Thanks for the input! I DO NOT want to go to the top of the 30' pole and "play" with the weatherhead! I'm approaching 65 and am hoping I can just make the splice with the weather tight
splice kits that are sold for Al wiring. I would like to have the splice on the pole X' from ground level. The wire size is 2-2-2-4 Al. I would need ~ 110' with about 90' of it buried.

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

Hopefully someone code savvy will chime in whether or not you can splice down low on the pole like that and if so, what the requirements are including "a box", etc. Up high, you may be able to do the "naked" splices like those between the utility wire from the street and the cable coming up out of my weatherhead. Down low...unlikely.

[Robert Engel]

I'm not sure of the code, but if there is copper involved you can have an issue.

An electrician spliced the feed to my shop & about 20 years later, the copper-to-aluminum splice failed and I lost the neutral. All kinds of weird things were happening in the shop.

I had a differerent electrician check it & he used a special connector that separates the two dissimilar metals.

I had a separate 200A service put in a few years ago if this is an option for you, I would consider it as opposed to a feed from the house.

[Bill Berklich]

Not sure of your location and permitting but 1) don't do it - your brief description doesn't sound like it will meet NEC - that's important because if it doesn't meet NEC the insurance company won't pay when you burn the barn down and 2) pull a permit - again important because without a permit/inspection the insurance company won't pay when you burn the barn down. And how do I know this??? A buddy of mine had a fire and the FIRST thing the insurance company did was check the permits and code. Lucky for him he had it covered.

[Peter Kelly]

I'm not sure of the code, but if there is copper involved you can have an issue.

An electrician spliced the feed to my shop & about 20 years later, the copper-to-aluminum splice failed and I lost the neutral. All kinds of weird things were happening in the shop.

I had a differerent electrician check it & he used a special connector that separates the two dissimilar metals.Al / Cu splices require either a Polaris type connector or a split bolt.

https://polarisconnectors.com

[Tom M King]

Google Burndy insulated tap connector , and you will find all configurations: https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/multiple-tap-connectors

Around here, they're just called "Burndy's".

A dedicated electrical supply house will have them in stock. The connection will need to go in a weatherproof junction box on the pole-get one plenty large enough to work in. You will need the Burndy that lets wires come in from opposite sides, and there will be lugs on one of the faces of the connector at right angles to the wires to tighten.

Here's a link to a little video that shows how they work:

https://burndy.wistia.com/medias/y2sr29sci6

edited to add: If your conductors are separate wires, it's easier to deal with separate Burndys for each pair of conductors that will be joined. They come in singles, as well as multiple units.

[cecil rolfe]

Worked for a power company 25 yrs. Do not use split bolts even the ones with a spacer bar on aluminum. Most of trouble call problems were loose or corroded split bolts Use compression connectors.
I did power quality/stray voltage last 15 years. Always replaced the split bolts.
Cecil

[Bruce Volden]

I will have my own 200A load center for the barn vs a feed from the shop (closer).
This is all aluminum wiring going into the the box and I will be using an anti-oxidant paste for the connections.

Bill--I didn't think about the insurance! Now I have to think some more on the project and talk with agent!
Thanks all for the input--keep 'em coming.

Bruce

[Frank Pratt]

Google Burndy insulated tap connector , and you will find all configurations: https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/multiple-tap-connectors



+1 on the Unitaps. We use them all the time & they are very reliable and easy to use. Almost goof proof.

I won't comment on whether or not this is something that can be done because there are so many unknown site specific conditions & local code requirements. I really would advise that you get a licensed electrician involved here

[Frank Pratt]

Worked for a power company 25 yrs. Do not use split bolts even the ones with a spacer bar on aluminum. Most of trouble call problems were loose or corroded split bolts Use compression connectors.
I did power quality/stray voltage last 15 years. Always replaced the split bolts.
Cecil

Yes to this. Split bolts have to be installed just right & then have the proper insulating tape applied just right. Even then they are prone to failure. A Unitap might take 2 minutes to install. The split bolt can easily take 30 minutes to install & insulate properly.

Compression connectors are even better, but require a hydraulic tool to crimp them.

[Mike Heidrick]

Weatherproof outdoor disconnect? Check for code compliance.

[Bruce Volden]

Weatherproof outdoor disconnect? Check for code compliance.


Mike
I do have a disconnect on the pole which shuts down the whole farm. Many farm sites don't have this feature anymore??
Forgot to add that I will be using schedule 40 pvc for underground transitions (90* sweep at pole and entering barn with weather tight entry box).
Anything else fellers?

Bruce

[cecil rolfe]

A hand crimping press also works well.

[Bruce Volden]

Just had an electrician out.
Wires CANNOT be spliced! He has to remove the overhead wires from the pole weather head and run a CONTINUOUS feed from pole to
load center to meet code.
Glad I asked for input here or I may have just spliced--thanks guys!

Bruce

[Bruce Wrenn]

Late in the game, but why can't you mount a disconnect on the pole and run new wire to barn from disconnect?