How to repair small sections of rotten wood?

[dennis thompson]

My porch has two boards with some small sections that show some rot. Does anyone know of any systems that could be used to repair this and can be stained to match the current color?
Thanks

[Mel Fulks]

What kind of wood?

[Bill Dufour]

I will be following this thread as I found some rotted window trim outside. Much can be replaced but some I hope to save with wood hardener which I have never used.
Bill D.

[andy bessette]

Why would you not post a photo?

[Lloyd McKinlay]

I would recommend Abatron products, although I've never tried staining it. It paints well. I used it on my last porch (75 year old Douglas fir) and all areas were still intact when I sold 10 years later.

[Jim Becker]

Ideally, because it's a porch floor, you'd remove the material back to where it's supported and replace that section of the board(s) that are rotted. Use the same kind of material that the floor is built from so your staining has the best opportunity to "match". (new finish will always look different than weathered finish, however)

[Lee Schierer]

I've used MinWax wood hardener for quick repairs on window sills and it seems to work okay. I don't know if I would trust it for repairing a floor where someone could possibly step through the floor and get hurt. I have done what Jim suggested for repairing deck surfaces.

[dennis thompson]

I've used MinWax wood hardener for quick repairs on window sills and it seems to work okay. I don't know if I would trust it for repairing a floor where someone could possibly step through the floor and get hurt. I have done what Jim suggested for repairing deck surfaces.

It's actually outside the railing on the very edge of the deck so no one will step on it. I think I'll try the suggested Minwax wood hardener
Thanks

[John Lanciani]

I've had very good results with Rotfix from System Three; https://www.systemthree.com/products/rotfix-epoxy-sealer

[Bill Dufour]

I asked this morning, even though it is listed on their site, Hoe Depot no longer carries wood hardener. they want you to rebuild with bondo and paint it to match. no treatment for the old wood to prevent further rot or insect damage just pry you got it all out and left no eggs behind. they also quit carrying hardie trim boards.

[Lee Schierer]

Lowes still carries the minwax product and HD carries a wood hardener by Varathane

[Bob Michaels1]

I use thickened West System epoxy for such repairs with good success. They feel that claims made by some manufacturers that certain epoxies will migrate into the pores of rotted wood is a bunch of hooey. Check out the West System website for a wealth of factual information.

[andy bessette]

Unsubscribed.

[Mike Eshleman]

This gives you lots of useful info for repairing exterior rot: http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/beating-wood-rot_o?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=Feature&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLC_072218%20(1)&he=0e7ccf4282c95dd497e3799e4a6f74a9492b324e

[Mark Wooden]

If the stain is a solid body color, you can probably use an epoxy, one I've had good success with is Flex Tec-http://www.advancedrepair.com/architectural_epoxy_flex_tec_hv_info_instructions. html- (and I'd recommend it for a rotted window sill ,Bill D). It will keep a certain amount of flexibility and move a little with the seasons. They don't say so, but it can be painted over with a solid body stain (mostly).
West System is good also but the Flex Tec is made specifically for repairs like rotted wood and a little easier to apply

[Tom M King]

If it's in a spot that gets hot from the Sun, epoxy will not be a very long term fix. I have repaired many old window sills with various epoxies, but have stopped using it on the South sides of buildings, and especially if there is a Southwest facing corner nearby. I'd replace it with wood.

[Bill Kelleher]

pm sent......................

[Mitchell Garnett]

ditto for Rotfix. I had to repair a balcony with rotted wood and I used this family of products. They are not cheap but work well. I believe this is the brand that the Gamble house in Pasadena, CA used to restore exterior beams but I may be mistaken.

[Jerry Olexa]

I've used the epoxy hardener products on window sills etc but would not use them where structual strength is needed...they work well esp in areas where painted surfaces.. (vs. stain)

[Bill Sutherland]

I have a beam I'm repairing and plan to use Wood Wizard.

[John K Jordan]

In my limited experience the Minwax hardener was not worth the effort. I used two cans once and couldn't tell I'd used any. Maybe the wood was too punky. I'll look for some sort of epoxy/resin infusion next time.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have used two different products. One is the Minwax, and the other is something that I need to take a look to see what it is. I was told that boat restorers use it because it penetrates pretty well. I have even used it on new builds to make wood rot resistant. But it is very expensive. I used it last to fix a bunch of rotten wood at my Dad's place. For my application, both worked well.

PM me if you want me to see if I still have the other product and I can then tell you what it is.... but only if I still have some on hand since I have forgotten the brand.

[Bill Dufour]

Any suggestions since I have the wall open to a degree. I would like to paint or spray something on the wood to prevent rot and termites. I know the common green or brown preservatives are not for interior use and have a smell that lasts for decades. I have some synesthetic nicotine, designed for termite drenching, I could spray to prevent bugs but it will do nothing to stop rot.
Bill D.

[Jack Clark]

Take a good long look at Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) from Smith and Company located here in Northern California. The product has been around since the 1970's, so it has withstood the test of time. Wooden boat fanatics and historical house restorationists love the product. The CPES is a two part epoxy, but has the viscosity of water. It truly penetrates the wood and, as I understand it, will follow the microscopic pathways etched by the fungus, killing the fungus along the way. There are warm weather and cool weather versions of the product. There are dealers, or you can order direct from Smith and Company. Link is below. Spend some time reading what's written about their products on the Smith & Co. website. Hope this helps.

https://smithandcompany.org/

[Mark Wooden]

The Smith& Co looks like a good product- thanks for the link Jack, I'm going to read up on it.

[Bill Dufour]

Doing some more research I have found many references to using PEG or antifreeze as a rot/inscet preventer. it will no reverse rot or anything like that. The pure Glycol can be brushed on the wood to help prevent future damage. It will even travel through latex paint into the wood below.
You can add borax and Boric acid to the antifreeze to increase the effects.
Bil lD.

[Dave Anthony]

I used West System epoxy w/filler on the slightly rotted overhang ends of a couple of 4/4 beams on a patio cover. That was more than 20 years ago, it's on the South side of the house and gets direct sun, but shows no sign of degradation.