Lie-Nielsen Plane Choice

[Joe Hollis]

Hello,

I currently own a Record #4-1/2 and #7 plane, and would like to buy one Lie-Nielsen bench plane (a lifetime purchase). With the exchange rate, etc. they are not inexpensive here in Canada, so I would appreciate your guidance on which plane would be a good choice.

I do general work,mostly in solid hardwoods and cabinet grade plywood. I fitted my Record #4-1/2 with a Lee Valley plane iron, and it works much better. The sole is not flat, but it is not that far off.

I am leaning towards a smaller #3, as I think the Record probably works OK (for me) and a different size plane would give me more flexibility in use.

Those of you that have a broader selection of bench planes than me (many of you I suspect), could you possibly offer your suggestions?

Thanks,

Joe H.

[andy bessette]

One of my most important planes is a low angle block plane with adjustable throat. Next is a shoulder plane.

[chris carter]

I would say the missing item is a jack/fore plane. I would not spend LN money on one of those though.

[Phil Mueller]

Joe, I don’t use my #3 very often, but if you plan to work with smaller components, it’s a nice option. It would also be easier to work given the 1 3/4” wide iron vs the 2 3/8” iron in your 4 1/2. I’ve seen many state their preference for the #3 over a #4 due primarily for the lighter weight and narrower iron.

If, however, there is only one new to you plane in the near future, I tend to agree with Andy and would suggest a good block plane. The one caveat is that block planes are much easier to source on the vintage market, or garage and flea markets for that matter, than would be a #3.

The good news on purchasing a quality tool from either Lie Nielsen or Veritas is that if it ends up not being used that much you can easily resell for near new price.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I agree with Andy. I’ve got about a dozen LN planes, a few Stanleys and a couple of LVs, but the one I seem to use on every project is my LN 60 1/2 adjustable mouth low angle block plane. Your 4 1/2 is long and heavy enough to use as a Jack in a pinch if you set it up for a heavy cut, but if you opt for a Jack consider the LN 62, a very versatile plane.

[Jim Koepke]

My #3s are used often. My #4-1/2 not as often as my other smoothing planes.

A Stanley #5 should be an easy find and will save money over an LN version. A smoother is more critical in the flat bottom area than is a jack plane.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

I use my low angle jack for many things. In fact if u are not married to LN, consider the Veritas. Every bit as good quality. Possibly cheaper for you given the exchange rate.

Others I might consider are a block, router, or shoulder plane.

[Blair Swanson]

I use my low angle jack for many things. In fact if u are not married to LN, consider the Veritas. Every bit as good quality. Possibly cheaper for you given the exchange rate.

Others I might consider are a block, router, or shoulder plane.

THIS ^. I'm patiently waiting for a back order on the Veritas LA Jack plane myself. I've got 2 extra blades all prepped & ready to go.
I can empathize with the exchange rate issue now for us as well. The downtown L.V. in Toronto is a regular hang for me & I play with the display planes quite a bit & can assure you that you wouldn't be disappointed in the Veritas lineup. On the subject their of LA block; I even have an extra 25 degree PM-V11 blade for mine that I put an "easy" 33 camber on / 45degree cut, (& rounded the corners). It's a GREAT investment for me that covers many tasks since investing in that extra blade. BUT .... I still want that big one! ;)
All the best.
B.

[David Myers]

The low angle jack is useful in several aspects of stock preparation. Honing the blade at different angles (or having multiple blades) allows you to adapt the tool to the particular stock you're working on.

The #3 is a good size for a smoother. It seemed counter- intuitive to me at first, but a smaller smoothing plane can get many jobs done faster than the larger planes.

As for a suggestion, just think about your current workflow and where either of those (or another choice) would fit in.

[Don Dorn]

Lots of opinions. For me, the only time to buy a premium plane is a smoother where a #4 is hard to beat over the long term. The other is a jointer in order to assure the flatness necessary for that task. As others have said, a #5 doesn't have to be premium and only the OP can determine if a block plane would be used enough to justify the expense. For me, that answer is no, but we all do things differently.

[David Eisenhauer]

My original thought (if the poster wants a LN plane) was that, to me, the #4 is sort of the LN poster child (so-to-speak) and would get my vote. Given that the OP currently uses a #4-1/2 for finishing, I still hold for a #4 or a #3 as others have suggested so that the OP has something with a narrower blade for use. To me, in this case, LA, block, shoulder, router, etc planes are add-ons after the fact. Just my opinion.

[Hasin Haroon]

It sounds like you're missing a jack plane. I wouldn't spend Lie Nielsen money on a bevel down jack plane, as it is meant to do rough work, and you can find a perfectly adequate Stanley No. 5 for much cheaper. I do love my No. 62 Jack from Lie Nielsen, and would be an excellent plane to add with a few extra blades. That said, if I was to get one single plane from Lie Nielsen, it would be the bronze No. 4 - its just the quintessential Lie Nielsen Plane.

That said, as a Canadian I feel I must point out that Veritas tools are every bit as good (and in some ways better as some thought is given into innovating the design to work better), and can be had for less in Canada. Most of my tools are veritas - I purchased some Lie Nielsen planes from the showroom when I visited. While there is no difference in quality, it comes down to a matter of aesthetics and price.

[Robert Engel]

I've not found the LA jack to be that more useful that I would suggest it as a 1° plane purchase.

Actually, I find myself reaching for the #6 probably as much as the smoother. For me, its a smoother, a face flattener, and a jointer for boards <24".

So I would go for something in the middle like a 5 or 6. With an additional cambered iron, they both also do well at prepping stock.

You could also consider adding one or more high angle frogs.

Their scraping plane is going to be on my tool shelf one day ;-)

[Brandon Speaks]

The number 4 would have gotten my vote, except with limited planes and having a 4 1/2 already I think the 3 is a solid choice. I could see the argument for a block plane as well, although I just dont use one as often as most people seem to.

[lowell holmes]

My #3 Bailey is one of my most used planes.
I also have a complete set of Bedrocks and yes this is a gloat.

[lowell holmes]

I always wanted a 4 1/2.

[Doug Dawson]

Hello,

I currently own a Record #4-1/2 and #7 plane, and would like to buy one Lie-Nielsen bench plane (a lifetime purchase). With the exchange rate, etc. they are not inexpensive here in Canada, so I would appreciate your guidance on which plane would be a good choice.

I do general work,mostly in solid hardwoods and cabinet grade plywood. I fitted my Record #4-1/2 with a Lee Valley plane iron, and it works much better. The sole is not flat, but it is not that far off.

I am leaning towards a smaller #3, as I think the Record probably works OK (for me) and a different size plane would give me more flexibility in use.

Those of you that have a broader selection of bench planes than me (many of you I suspect), could you possibly offer your suggestions?


That's like asking which gear of your car you would go with, if you could have only one gear. In that case I would suggest first gear, which is a #5. But there are so many old #5's around.

You suggested the #3. The truth of it is, every old barn that is still standing has a #3 buried in it somewhere, you just have to look hard enough.

Others have suggested a block plane, but they are common as dirt, you probably already have several and don't even remember.

Some people would suggest the L-N #62 (low angle jack.) I have one, and I don't use it that much as a smoothing plane, but it's good on end grain (momentum.)

So, my suggestion is none of the L-N's, and just buy more old Stanleys (three of those for the price of one L-N, even from a concierge tool merchant.)

[Alan Schwabacher]

I would think a shoulder plane, spokeshave, router plane, or block plane would be a good choice that adds to what you have. It sounds like you are looking half for function and half for jewelry, so choose what you think looks best, and learn how to use it. All of L-N's jewelry is useful, but it looks best in bronze.

[Brandon Speaks]

As someone who owns the LN router plane I would go veritas for that one. Nothing against the LN, and I bought mine because I thought I needed a specific cutter width for a specific project that Veritas did not stock. In retrospect I should have just got the veritas and would have been fine with a slightly narrower cutter (but dont regret it enough to make a change).

I cant comment on shoulder planes as I have never used one.

If I were buying LN right now I could see it being either a smoother (with the assumption) that it would be more precisely tuned than my restore, or a jointer (with the assumption that it would be flatter than my restore). My gut would tell me a smoother would overall be the better value (for me) and I would probably go 3 or 4.

I would really think about it like this though, what will be your most used plane overall in your shop? Get the LN version of that plane if you only plan to get one LN.

[Warren Mickley]

I think your instincts are right, Joe. I would go with the #3 plane. This is a plane that would take advantage of the strengths of a Lie Nielsen plane: double iron, bevel down plane with high precision.

A jack plane is used for rough work, so it does not need the precision. Also a jack plane is used for more extended periods so a light plane is helpful. I recommend a double iron wooden jack rather than the very heavy Lie Nielsen.

[glenn bradley]

Since you mention a #3 I'll add what I do to the mix here. I look at tools that will serve multiple needs when I'm "shopping". I have the Veritas LA block plane and it was my only block for some time. With the addition of the Veritas Apron Plane (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,48942) as a gift at some point, I added the ball-tail and knob (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=41715&cat=1,41182,48942) set to the LA block plane and it gets used like a #3. I also have the add-on tote but, find the ball-tail more usable in the small plane format; YMMV. The LA block and optional grips would give you the block and a #3 function in one purchase. Food for thought.

[Jessica de Boer]

My #3 Bailey is one of my most used planes.

I have a Record #3 made in 1956 (when they still made good planes) that I picked up on ebay for 45 pounds. I purchased a Veritas PM-V11 blade for it and it's a wonderful tool. It sees use on every project because it's so light and nimble.

[Joe Hollis]

Thanks for all your responses. I will go with the #3, as I think this is a good size for the work I do. I see that Lee Valley does not offer a plane in that size at this time anyway.

Regards,

Joe H.

[Blair Swanson]

Thanks for all your responses. I will go with the #3, as I think this is a good size for the work I do. I see that Lee Valley does not offer a plane in that size at this time anyway.

Regards,

Joe H.

Lee Valley has this : http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67691&cat=41182,52515

[David Myers]

You'll be pleased with your choice.

[andy bessette]

I have many Lee Valley tools. But the Lie Nielsen planes are generally a cut above.

[Matthew Hills]

A bevel-down smoother in your most-used size is probably the leading candidate to buy as a premium plane.
Even with your 4-1/2, a #4 might still have value.
Only you would know if the #3 will be a workhorse size. (I got a vintage #3 and tuned it up, but find I still almost always use my #4)

A jointer would be next choice for a precision plane, but I'm actually pretty happy with my stanley #7. I think the LN's may be a bit heavier, which would give me some pause. Having a good chip breaker available for this is nice. If I was struggling with this, it would be a good candidate. (I haven't mic'd it out, but it produces a flat result.)

The premium block planes are nice, but their work is more incidental for me -- chamfering an edge or flushing something up in a tight area.

The premiums are good for some joinery planes -- if you do shiplap or tongue&groove backs, the LN No48/49 planes are about as nice as it gets... These would be an excellent choice, but if and only if your furniture needs them.

Which brings me to... shooting planes! If you do handwork, this is a very useful task. The LN is very expensive; the LV a bit less so (and has a skewed blade), and the respective low-angle jacks are more approachable yet. If your work is small-scale, you might even like the LV miter plane.


When you get your plane, please do post some followup with how it works out.

Matt

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks for all your responses. I will go with the #3, as I think this is a good size for the work I do. I see that Lee Valley does not offer a plane in that size at this time anyway.

Regards,

Joe H.

Hi Joe

The LN #3 is one of my favourite smoothers. Mine has the 45 degree frog. I would not be tempted to go higher (there are 50- and 55 degree frogs), but learn to use the chipbreaker for interlocked grain. On my local woods, the higher frogs were not high enough to prevent tearout, and they made the plane feel heavy and cumbersome. The great thing about a #3 is that it is a nimble worker. This is my favourite size.

My plane has a couple of modifications. Firstly, I have a #4 handle replacing the #3 handle as I found the original a little small. I also managed to acquire LN cocobolo handle and knob, which are now unobtainable.The #4 handle needs a little tweaking to fit (as you will see below). Let me know if you go down this route and I will send you the information. The combination is wonderful.

The other modification is the Veritas PM-V11 blade. The LN A2 steel is very good. There is no "need" for a change, however I prefer the O1-like sharpening of the PM-V11.

https://s19.postimg.cc/5c02u7kbn/image.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Sanford]

Post Facto Two Cents Worth, for the benefit of others facing such questions:

Given that you are looking at SUPPLMENTING/EXPANDING your plane squadron and functionality, not upgrade/replace, and given that you are considering this to be a "lifetime"/ bucket list type of tool, not a "maximize dollars to function", my suggestions would be:

LN 60 1/2
LN#3

Coincidentally, those to two of the three LN planes I have. For joinery planes, I look to Veritas. Their shoulder planes may not be as elegant looking, but I like their ergos more. Also, the wee little LN102 is very highly regarded hereabouts, but I can't speak to it's value personally.

[Joe Williams]

Without a doubt the #3 is my favorite, I am so bothered that I never got a 5 1/4 when LN made them. I have been trying for a long time. I just love the #3. Derek I love that tote and knob, maybe I will try and make one someday as I can't get them anymore. Thank you

[Jim R Edwards]

My favorite plane sizes are a 5 and 5 1/2 so I upgraded my Stanley planes to LN and LV planes. I have a LV BUJ and a LN 5 1/2 and use them for 80% of my hand plane task. Using a LV and/or LV plane is a pleasure regardless of what type you purchase.

[steven c newman]

Hmmmm.
390679
hmmmmm.. No. 3c
390680
Hmmm..No. 4c...
390681
Hmmm, No. 7c....
390682
Hmmm, No. 5-1/2....smooth sole...2-3/8" wide iron.
390683
Hmmm..No. 5c.....

[Jim Koepke]

Without a doubt the #3 is my favorite, I am so bothered that I never got a 5 1/4 when LN made them. I have been trying for a long time. I just love the #3. Derek I love that tote and knob, maybe I will try and make one someday as I can't get them anymore. Thank you

Find an old Stanley/Bailey #4 and use the tote and knob from them. Put the LN's tote and knob on the #4 and sell it.

If you are in the PNW, PM me.

jtk

[Joe Williams]

Find an old Stanley/Bailey #4 and use the tote and knob from them. Put the LN's tote and knob on the #4 and sell it.

If you are in the PNW, PM me.

jtk

I never even thought they would fit or work, I have a #3 with rosewood and a bunch of rosewood handles for others in a box going to try that! Thanks. I just never thought to try it but they may fit!