Methods for attaching 1/4" finished skins to cabinet ends

[scott vroom]

I'm doing a low budget kitchen cab job for a friend's rental. For stain grade jobs I've always built end panels to match the doors but this job requires cheap and fast 1/4" mdf core veneers, something I've never done. How do you guys do this? Do you simply butt them to the frame with a small reveal? Do you use adhesive and/or pin nails? Seems the cleanest method would be to dado the veneer to the FF, but the reveal would have to be wider than 1/16 for obvious reasons.

The easiest solution would be to use 3/4" veneer ply to construct the box thereby eliminating the need for a 1/4" skin. The problem is that the other box pieces are C-2 maple so I'd have a species mis-match on the interior (exterior species is alder and the only 3/4 veneer available is alder both sides. This would create an unacceptable mis-match of interior species. I'm wondering if it would just be easier to bond the 1/4" skin to the 3/4 C-2 prior to assembling the box.

[Jim Becker]

For something like this, I'd use adhesive and a few pin nails (and blue tape at the edge to pull things tight). Sometimes simple is best. And yes, I'd put it on while building the box for additional simplification.

[Edwin Santos]

For something like this, I'd use adhesive and a few pin nails (and blue tape at the edge to pull things tight). Sometimes simple is best. And yes, I'd put it on while building the box for additional simplification.

Since your job requires "cheap and fast" I would do (and have done) exactly as Jim describes.
Edwin

[scott vroom]

Thanks gents.

[Mike Kees]

Contact cement.

[johnny means]

A high end veneer shop I worked in used contact cement to apply such skins.

[Tim Bueler]

For quick, easy, cheap...Jim has the answer

The last few jobs I've been using pro-grade, foaming, polyurethane construction adhesive. Specifically Great Stuff Pro. I'm sure other brands would work, the GS is what's available here.

I use prefinished maple for interiors with 1/4" mdf core panels, of whatever species, for end panels. Since the polyurethane is not a water based adhesive the panels don't try to warp or swell. I've gotten by quite well by simply gluing the panel and resting the cabinet on that end (put in a couple micro pins to keep the panel from shifting) and letting the weight of the cabinet be the "clamp". Clamp (or blue tape) any edges that will be seen to get a tight seam. After the glue sets I'll take a spiral flush trim bit and flush up the face frame, sand and finish. Or you can leave a small reveal on the face frame if you want to avoid the chance of sanding through the veneer.

I tried Titebond Melamine but it didn't bond well (at all, really) to the prefin plywood. The foaming adhesive creates a tenacious bond even when I forget to scuff up the prefinished area being bonded over. I actually took some scraps of each material, glued them together, then tore them apart after a couple days. The bond wasn't quite as strong as that you get with wood glue on clean wood, but more than adequate for what it is.