Salad bowl finish

[Jeff Clode]

New here so go easy....have read zillions of posts on finishing salad bowls and will go with walnut oil and probably a wax overcoat but still not clear as to advisability of something before the walnut oil. Is there anything to be gained by using a sanding sealer before the last sanding? I have read lots but can’t figure out if this is a good thing or a waste of time.. if the answer is to use the sealer, what is consensus recommendation as to type or brand?
thanks in advance for advice
jeff

[robert baccus]

The walnut oil (not my fav.) is a penetrating finish--any sealer is designed to prevent this from happening. SS is designed to prevent a piece from absorbing too much lacquer--one coat of SS is equal to 5 coats of lacquer in sealing the wood and is great for this purpose. It is also very soft and sands down to help fill pores--all this prevents oil from it,s purpose.

[Jeff Clode]

Thank you- makes a lot of sense....if I might ask, what is your fav?
jeff

[Chris A Lawrence]

I use pure tung oil for all my food prep items. Its not an instant finish though it can take from a couple weeks to a month for it to cure. Once cured i buff with bealls buffs.

[robert baccus]

Like Chris tung oil is the best followed by Watco oil. Find pure tung oil and cut it 4 to one with paint thinner and it cure fairly fast--very durable and resists darkening very well.

[Brandon Speaks]

Could you finish with just bees wax. I have finished non food bowls that way and like it, I am sure it would be food safe, not sure how well it would protect though.

[Dan Hulbert]

I use a blend of bees wax and mineral oil for anything that makes contact with food. Heat the oil a bit, melt in the bees wax and pour it in a jar. When cool enough to handle, wipe it on and let it soak for a while. Wipe of the excess and you're done. Keep the jar of mix handy to refresh the finish when it no longer beads water on the surface.

Mineral oil is a non-drying oil that will not go rancid like a vegetable or nut oil and the bees wax helps protect the wood. You could even start with a good soaking in straight mineral oil and add the blend coat later.

[Reed Gray]

The Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil, which has carnuba wax in it. Bees wax is too soft, and you can see finger prints.

robo hippy

[Chris A Lawrence]

Bees wax just makes a film on the surface. Tung oil soaks into the wood and when cured hardens the wood. My last step of buffing is with bealls carnuba wax.