Tool Chest Beginnings...

[Jason Lester]

As I've acquired more and better hand tools, I struggled with where to safely store them. My wife got me the Anarchist Tool Chest book a couple of years ago. The dovetails scared me off though. I've tried them a few times, but was never satisfied with them. Part of the problem was that I just couldn't get my chisels sharp enough. When I would watch videos, the chiseled surfaces looked very slick and paring seemed effortless. Mine would bust up the endgrain and paring was nearly impossible. I finally broke down and got the Shapton set of stones, the Veritas jig, and a Worksharp 3000. The Worksharp allows me to quickly and safely grind to 25 degrees and then I use the Veritas jig to hone and polish it. With this setup, I could finally do what I saw in the videos. I made some boxes for Christmas gifts and hand dovetailed my first drawers in a project earlier this year.

I bought 100bf of poplar a few weeks ago. It's great stock, most of the boards are actually close to 5/4 and 12-13 inches wide. My jointer is 8", so I had to flatten one side by hand enough to go through my Dewalt planer. I got the stock all prepped and glued last weekend and started cutting the dovetails yesterday. This is the first corner I finished up. I'm pretty happy with them. I still struggle a little with going over my baseline. I'm not sure if I'm marking it wrong or just chiseling a little too deep. That's really the only problem I still have with them. Each set I cut gets a little better.

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[ken hatch]

As I've acquired more and better hand tools, I struggled with where to safely store them. My wife got me the Anarchist Tool Chest book a couple of years ago. The dovetails scared me off though. I've tried them a few times, but was never satisfied with them. Part of the problem was that I just couldn't get my chisels sharp enough. When I would watch videos, the chiseled surfaces looked very slick and paring seemed effortless. Mine would bust up the endgrain and paring was nearly impossible. I finally broke down and got the Shapton set of stones, the Veritas jig, and a Worksharp 3000. The Worksharp allows me to quickly and safely grind to 25 degrees and then I use the Veritas jig to hone and polish it. With this setup, I could finally do what I saw in the videos. I made some boxes for Christmas gifts and hand dovetailed my first drawers in a project earlier this year.

I bought 100bf of poplar a few weeks ago. It's great stock, most of the boards are actually close to 5/4 and 12-13 inches wide. My jointer is 8", so I had to flatten one side by hand enough to go through my Dewalt planer. I got the stock all prepped and glued last weekend and started cutting the dovetails yesterday. This is the first corner I finished up. I'm pretty happy with them. I still struggle a little with going over my baseline. I'm not sure if I'm marking it wrong or just chiseling a little too deep. That's really the only problem I still have with them. Each set I cut gets a little better.



Jason,

The tool chest or at least the first corner looks very good. The last bit of baseline remaining should be very thin and more of a paring cut than a chopping cut. Remember a couple of things: It's a tool chest, not your apprentice graduation project and more than likely the out side will be painted. Build quickly, store your tools in it and go to work. BTW, Poplar and milk paint were made for each other.

ken

[David Eisenhauer]

Looks good from here Jason and it seems that you are off to a good start. So what if the tool box ends up with a couple of "oopses" when it is all finished up? Let others worry about their own projects and you do the best you can do for you and yours. My wife and son were never interested in my pointing out my mistakes or less than superior results on a finished project anyway. Waste of time pointing them out. Are you chopping or sawing out the waste between the tails? As Ken said, the last bit of waste clearance should be a paring cut rather than a chop. I work mine from both sides when clearing the waste and like to finish up on the show side. I used to chop, but now saw down very close to the base line before paring to the line. When I chopped, I would totally remove the bulk of the waste from around 1/8" or so from the base line and then pare in to the line from there. The chisel went into the base line for the final 1/64" or so paring cut. I do not use a mallet on the chisel when it is in the base line and I believe use of a mallet too close to the base line will cause it to move back some.

[Jim Koepke]

I used to chop, but now saw down very close to the base line before paring to the line.

Same here, a coping saw or a fret saw can do wonders to improve your dovetail's consistency and speed.

Yours look better than some of my early dovetails.

jtk

[Jason Lester]

Thanks guys. I do use a fretsaw to saw out the waste. I was looking at my marking gauge last night, and I think I've been setting it wrong. I snug it up against the side of the board, but that probably makes it slightly too wide, I think? It should be even with the side of the board instead.

Also, it will definitely be getting a milk paint finish. I'm probably going for the bluish gray color that you can get. I'm putting the pretty side of the boards to the inside so I can see them every time I use it.

Jason

[Jason Lester]

Got it in the clamps tonight. I think I about used up all my 24" clamps.

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You can see some gaps on the inside corners, but the outside is looking pretty good.

Jason

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks guys. I do use a fretsaw to saw out the waste. I was looking at my marking gauge last night, and I think I've been setting it wrong. I snug it up against the side of the board, but that probably makes it slightly too wide, I think? It should be even with the side of the board instead.
[edited]

Jason

Some like to set the gauge just a hair wider than the board. This is to make the pins and tails proud. Then they can be trimmed down to the sides with a block plane.

Occasionally mine are left proud:

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The tails were left proud and rounded over. At the time the drawer was made for this small bench it was too cold to glue in the shop and too hectic to glue in the house. My plan was to glue it up come spring. It is still un-glued and holding up well.

jtk

[Jason Lester]

I'm pretty pleased with how it came out of the clamps. I used a #7 to level all the joints and then made all the bottom boards today. It's coming right along.

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One nail split really bad (the very last one of course), so I re-nailed and then glued and clamped it back. It can't come apart, but I hate seeing that split.

[ken hatch]

Jason,

It's on the bottom, if you do not point it out no one will ever see it :). BTW, the bottom looks good, nice work.

ken

[Jason Lester]

I leveled out all the joints tonight with a #7. This is my first project using mainly hand tools, particularly planes. I did the milling with power tools, but I do now see the satisfaction in perfectly flattening and leveling a surface by hand.

[Jason Lester]

Worked the last couple of days on the bottom skirt. Schwarz has said it's the hardest part of the build. I was extra careful with my dovetails and they came out great. They're the first ones I'm really proud of. The most stressful part for me was gluing them to the chest. I got a little ahead of myself and nailed the rot strips to the bottom yesterday. That keeps the chest from sitting flat on the floor. That in turn made gluing the skirt to the chest a little stressful. I got it done, but the beveled part on one tail corner split a little. It goes right back into place, so I think I can glue it back with no issues once the clamps come off and I can flip it over.

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[David Eisenhauer]

Really moving ahead Jason. Good stuff on the dovetails and the split will not be the last one you ever have to re glue.

[Jason Lester]

Got the top and bottom skirts finished and attached, working on the lid tonight. I ordered some hand forged hinges for it.

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[David Eisenhauer]

Kinda looking like a tool box, hope that is what it is supposed to be.

[Jeff Ranck]

I'm enjoying this thread as I plan to make a tool chest at some point (after I finish my bench)

[Jason Lester]

Kinda looking like a tool box, hope that is what it is supposed to be.

Definitely, my wife keeps saying it's too pretty to paint and put tools in though. I think I'll probably be making another one at some point for other uses.

[Jason Lester]

I got a lot done over the past few days.

The lid is finished and ready to be hinged. I did multiple dominoes on each joint instead of the through tenons on the plan. With the full 3/4" panel, it's plenty strong. I had never seen or done a "groove in groove" raised panel before. I've always done traditional raised panels. It's an interesting option when you want more strength and easier to cut the joinery than a traditional raised panel.

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The sliding trays are all done as well. Here they are set so you can easily see into each tray's contents, showing my meager hand tool collection:

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Here they are slid to the back for access to my planes and saws:

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I still need to make the actual till for the saws. I'm probably going to buy a couple of western saws before I finish that part. The plane section is pretty well ready to go. The rear section that the book shows being used for molding planes is going to be for hand power tools in my case. I have my Bosch 1617 router with extra base back there along with my Makita drill and impact drivers.

Plan for this weekend is to get the top hinged, the side lifts on, and get any marks and pencil lines off. I'm also going to put a chisel rack on either the front or rear wall, likely the rear.

[steven c newman]

Might look into hanging the saws from the lid, instead?
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IF you look up old Carpenter's Tool Chests....you will see 2-6 saws on the lids..
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Mine now sits empty, and unused....except for the stuff that gets piled on the lid.

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anybody need a tool chest? No tools will be in it....easy to haul

[David Eisenhauer]

Looking good Jason. Nearly there. I like it.

[Blair Swanson]

Looks like you're enjoying the project Jason. I like the looks of the natural wood but it'll be better off with a finish for some protection. I sure Like the whole layout. Hope you'll post a bunch of pics when it's completed.

Blair.

[Jason Lester]

I'm doing milk paint on the outside, probably a medium blue color. The inside will stay natural and unfinished. The way my lid fits tight to the top of the box and the top tray, there's no room for a saw till up there.

I got the lid hinged tonight. The hand forged hinges I bought aren't rectangular, they have kind of a scalloped edge. I didn't even try to mortise in that same pattern, just did rectangular ones. That makes them look a little sloppy, but everything opens and closes perfectly. I really like the inside of the panel I used for the lid. I know some people don't like poplar, but I really like it when you can incorporate the green and yellow streaks. I even like the smell when you cut it.

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[David Eisenhauer]

Would you consider a coat or two of shellac on the inside after doing all of the rest of the work? either way, good job and enjoy the chest for many, many years.

[Blair Swanson]

I also like working with poplar Jason. It is readily available in all the popular dimensions & is affordable in leu of more expensive hardwood for appropriate things. It's ideal for experimenting with in a variety of application. In our apartment my designated work area is relatively limited & have made a smaller sized work bench with a 1-1/2" top of MDF w/hardboard surface. I edged the top with 3/4" x 1-1/2" poplar with 2-1/2" front apron. I have designed an edge based clamping system which utilizes the whole top for holding rather than dogs & hold downs & your standard vises.(one metal vise). Poplar is a good wood for clamping to as it is hard but soft enough for none slip clamping. It planes & chisels so easily & is a pleasure to work. My benchwork jigs are also poplar for the most part. I like to use countersunk #6 drywall screws for this wood where it applies to this bench application & the like. Highly recommended. Like you, I enjoy the unusual about this wood regarding it's colouring. (an acquired taste ;) ) All round good utility wood.

Blair.

[Jerry Olexa]

Very nice work, Jason!!! Good job..

[Jason Lester]

Added the chisel/tool rack to the back wall tonight. I had a small piece of ash left from my bench build that was almost the perfect size. It gave up a little clearance for the trays to slide all the way back, but freed up lots of space in the trays themselves. From left to right, I have my chisels (Narex imperial set, old Sears for glue scraping, and a Veritas 1/2"), then my Wera and Klein screwdrivers, marking gauge, and dividers. There's plenty of extra holes to add more later as needed.

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I bought some chain at Home Depot to do the lid stay, but it is woefully undersized. I had it the way I wanted and noticed the lid kept gradually opening wider. It was pulling the links apart. It looks nice, but must have a very low rating.

Jason

[David Myers]

Looking good Jason.

FWIW, Chris Schwarz abandoned his original chain (or it abandoned him):
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/a-quick-hold-open-lid-stay-for-a-tool-chest

[Jason Lester]

Looking good Jason.

FWIW, Chris Schwarz abandoned his original chain (or it abandoned him):
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/a-quick-hold-open-lid-stay-for-a-tool-chest

Thanks for the tip. I wasn't crazy about the chain either, but couldn't think of anything else that wouldn't interfere with the sliding trays. I might go with something like that instead.

[William Adams]

I bought some chain at Home Depot to do the lid stay, but it is woefully undersized. I had it the way I wanted and noticed the lid kept gradually opening wider. It was pulling the links apart. It looks nice, but must have a very low rating.


Lee Valley sells a forged brass chain which is quite nice:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40787&cat=3,41419,41435

I used the short one on my archery case:

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[steven c newman]

Wall E World sells a package of chain. by Peerless #4745045. 15 feet of Jack Chain. Includes (4) Flower Pot S Hooks. Max load is 10 pounds. Made to hang large hanging Flower Pots. The package I bought for the Small Maple Blanket Chest last Spring was black chain.....I seem to recall a silver set, as well..
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Blanket Chest also had a Maple lid support. It rotated up to engage the "D" shaped keeper. When the lid was lowered, the support kept the chain inside the chest.

[Jeff Ranck]

This is interesting and what I plan on evaluating when I get to that point: http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2015/03/making-simple-lid-stay.html

Jeff.

[Jason Lester]

Got the lid stop made last night. I used the idea from Schwarz that was posted earlier. I made mine out of some ash instead of metal though. I used a threaded insert on the lid dust seal and one on the top skirt along with a couple of brass thumbscrews. I did another insert down on the bottom skirt so that the rod can be secured to the side of the chest when not in use. I'll be taking the stop back off today to do a little shaping on it to make it look nicer.

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I'm mostly finished at this point. I have some lifts to install on the sides and then get it painted. It's already working well for me. I got all the tools oiled up earlier this week and removed any existing corrosion. I'm making sure to put everything up when I stop for the day so I don't spend 15 minutes the next day trying to find everything.

[steven c newman]

Just a thought....
Find the middle of the brace. Cut and make a knuckle joint. Went you go to close the lid, the brace will fold up, and store itself . Would need a pair of brass washers in the joint, to help it pivot. You could even add a nut to the bolt/rod/pin, to where you could tighten the brace in place?

[David Myers]

Nice job.

Enjoy using it and post more pics.

[Graham Haydon]

Great job, Jason. Good to hear you've had fun with the more hand tool focus of your project. It's come out very well.
I made one a few years back. My only regrets were not making it a bit smaller and adding some dividers in the drawers. Something I can sort out when I get a free moment though....