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View Full Version : pros / cons of Paperback vs. standard veneer,



Martin Lutz
11-21-2005, 8:42 PM
Are there any drawbacks to using paperback veneers? I have read of veneer bubbling, is this paperback? I need to veneer a large project and will need to join several sheets of standard veneer or use paperback. any help is appreciated.

Tim Sproul
11-22-2005, 12:04 AM
I'm a newb to woodworking and an even newer newb to veneering so take this for what it's worth.....

My understanding is that the biggest difference is the thickness. Paperback is generally 1/100" thick and hence really requires the paperbacking to keep from cracking/splitting. Solid wood veneers are generally 1/42" or thicker.

The paperbacked stuff doesn't give you much room to prep the surface if you ding or otherwise introduce an imperfection. It does tend to be easier to handle because of the paperbacking and you generally don't have to worry about it being wavy or such so you won't need veneer softener. I've also seen it in very wide sheets - 24 inches - which isn't very easily obtained in solid wood veneer. The paperbacking will also keep any glue bleed-thru to a minimum, if not completely eliminate it. At 1/100 thickness, paper backed is probably more amenable to bent veneering applications where you have more severe bends.

1/42" or thicker veneer - there seems to be a lot more of it available, especially for figured veneer. This could be an access issue as large, figured sheets of veneer probably command a lot of attention and money and so may well disappear before they can brought to the attention of us average 'joes' in the form of wide and long paperbacked veneer. I like that I can obtain small quantities of nice veneer in 1/42 or thicker since it really has opened up some possibilities for me. I currently wouldn't think about spending a hundred dollars on solid, heavily curled maple to make 4 medium sized panels...yet I can get those panels for $20 or so with veneer and mdf or hardboard and some glue. If I muck up such a panel, I won't be forced to cut off my pinky......such obligations would likely render me fingerless within a project or two :eek: ! I also like that I can do hammer veneering with hide glue on regular veneer. The need to scrape the show surface following hammer veneering probably precludes the use of 1/100 thickness veneer. Might not have any veneer left after scraping the excess hide glue off ;) .

I think I'm done rambling...:)

Chris Barton
11-22-2005, 7:31 AM
It is true that paper backed is thinner than regular veneer but, there are some advantages to paper backed. First, it can be put down with a veneer hammer. Your veneer hammer is just a smoothing device much like a J roller. Second, paper backed is finished to better than 220 grit when you get it so, it shouldn't need much finishing. It is also very flexible and smooth with no waves or ridges. Regular veneer requires the use of relaxing or flattening agents prior to use while PB doesn't. I wouldn't go as far as saying one is better than another, just different and sometimes suited to particular projects.

tod evans
11-22-2005, 8:50 AM
i try to avoid the paperback for two reasons,the first being i like to do my own veneer lay-ups, the second being that even with the "NBL" (no-black-line) veneer the edge will require more delicate handling than a standard veneer. .02 tod

Martin Lutz
11-22-2005, 9:40 AM
Great information. I didnt realize paperback was so thin. I found some paperback this weekend in 4' X 8' sheets. It got me to thinking that I may want to go this route. Especially since I am relatively new to curved panel veneering. Thanks for all the help.

Sam Blasco
11-22-2005, 10:40 AM
Sounds like someone is getting ready to due some big curved carcasses or doors and drawer fronts, or both (the bending ply post.) If that is the case, you may want to consider WOW (wood on wood) veneer. It is basically skinny ply (about .04"). Much easier to work with than paper back, phenolic back or plain sheets. If the edge will be seen and you are staining, it will fade into the project. When not making my own veneers, or if I need 10 full sheets, sequenced and matched, this is the way I go. In a pinch, for interior door panels, lets say, you can even use contact cement to adhere it. Flexwood makes some, Charter Industries is another supplier, to name a couple... Probably, where you end up getting your bending ply, they'll have WOW veneer, too.

Ellen Benkin
11-22-2005, 11:30 AM
I had a shelf made by a cabinet maker who used paperback veneer (before I knew anything about veneers). It was in a location where it got some sunlight for about an hour a day and it bubbled in that spot. I also managed to get a "ding" somehow. When I took it to a place to have it repaired I was told that it was paperbacked and there was nothing to be done. I would not use it on any of my projects.

Martin Lutz
11-22-2005, 6:18 PM
Sam you hit it on the nose. King size sleigh bed coming up. Actually two of them. I am sure there will be more curved veneering posts in due time. Thanks for the WOW tip. I have not heard of this so you have my interest. I believe some research is in store.

Ellen, thanks for the tip. I have heard similiar stories.