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Phil Mueller
07-10-2018, 10:24 PM
Maybe a weird idea, but thinking of cutting open my current box project on my router table. I’ve loaned out my contractor’s saw to a friend for a few weeks (which I would normally use), and I really am horrible at trying to cut boxes open with a hand saw/pull saw/back saw (yes, tried them all!).

So, does anyone see a pending disaster using a 1/8” straight cut bit taking 3 or 4 passes at 1/8” or so increments around the box. Need to get just shy of 1/2” (I’ll leave a hair to hand cut with a saw).

Charlie Jones
07-10-2018, 10:32 PM
It will work fine. I would use a 1/8 spiral bit.

Charles Lent
07-11-2018, 7:58 AM
Do you have a band saw? I've used my band saw quite a few times for this, but make sure the tracking and the fence are lined up before starting.

Charley

Brian Holcombe
07-11-2018, 8:04 AM
A router works well for this. 1/8” downcut with light passes.

Peter Christensen
07-11-2018, 11:02 AM
You could use a slot cutter bit if it fit the size of the boxes you want to cut.
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/6705a

Phil Mueller
07-11-2018, 12:58 PM
Thank you all. I actually found a new 1/8” downcut in the back of the “misc” drawer that I must have “needed” at some point for something (I’m sure that’s never happened to anyone else!). Anyway, should be good to go. Appreciate the experienced input.

Earl McLain
07-11-2018, 2:12 PM
I may be late to the party, but I picked up a 6" 40 tooth from Carbide Processors that I use in my 10" table saw--kerf about 1/16". Got it to segment pen blanks (i.e. Celtic knots), but it's great for parting box lids as well. Clean cut, minimal wood loss so it keeps the grain flowing better. Much better results than I ever had before. Have been thinking about trying a steel blade (non-carbide) for box cutting--but the kerf would only be slightly narrower.
earl

Matt Day
07-11-2018, 3:20 PM
Earl, the OP said he lent his TS out, which is why he’s asking about using a router.

Phil Mueller
07-11-2018, 5:00 PM
Earl, only late for this box :) Thanks for the 6” thin blade idea. Will need to give that a try.

Van Huskey
07-11-2018, 5:08 PM
Am I the only one that read the title and envisioned a youtube unboxing video going horribly wrong? :eek:

Mike Henderson
07-11-2018, 7:34 PM
I have a 10 inch 2mm table saw blade that I use to cut the top off of a box. You want to disrupt the grain pattern as little as possible. Cutting most of the way through and finishing with a hand saw is a good way to do it.

You'll almost never get it exactly right so having a piece of MDF with a big piece of sandpaper glued to it works to get the box and the top flat so they fit together perfectly. When I say big piece of sandpaper, I mean some sandpaper cut from a belt from a wide belt sander, maybe 24 to 36 inches wide.

If you're going to glue wide sandpaper to MDF, make sure you use some glue that doesn't have water in it or the MDF will warp. I use 3M 77 or 90 spray glue.

Mike

Larry Frank
07-11-2018, 7:46 PM
I do much better using the bandsaw to cut off a lid. And then the sandpaper on MDF works great.

Earl McLain
07-11-2018, 9:00 PM
Earl, the OP said he lent his TS out, which is why he’s asking about using a router.

Yep--I read that last night, forgot it by the time I posted this afternoon.
earl

Nick Stokes
07-11-2018, 9:21 PM
Am I the only one that read the title and envisioned a youtube unboxing video going horribly wrong? :eek:

That's exactly what I was expecting..

Curt Harms
07-12-2018, 8:03 AM
Do you have a band saw? I've used my band saw quite a few times for this, but make sure the tracking and the fence are lined up before starting.

Charley

I just watched a Rough Cut v.2 episode where they did the same, used a band saw. A small router bit should work though, slow feed and shallow passes.

Phil Mueller
07-12-2018, 9:29 AM
FYI, the 1/8” router bit I had actually turned out to be an upcut, but a number of shallow passes worked brilliantly. I have an INCRA lift in my table and was able to creep up on the depth to leave a very small amount that could be removed with an exacto. It left a very smooth suface that just needed a wee bit of sanding to get a great fit without any gaps. May end up being my go to method.