Jointer guard help..

[Mike Kees]

I recently purchased a 16'' Paolini jointer. Somewhere in its past life whatever it had for a blade guard was removed and disappeared. I am working on building my own replacement. Because of the width (16'') a porkchop style is cumbersome ,I am still playing with different shapes and sizes.I welded a bolt on a piece of angle iron and clamp it to the jointer to determine best place for the pivot point . Now I am drawing out guard shapes and cutting them on my bandsaw then drilling a hole and finding out what I need to different for the next prototype. :) Has anyone ever built a bridge type guard ? Any design tips or pictures would be welcome.Is there anyone who makes aftermarket guards for big jointers ? Went on youtube and saw the guard on Martin jointers,I think it was a Suvamatic, amazing. It would probably cost more than I paid for the jointer. Mike.

[Mark Gibney]

Mike, a few years back I bought a used 16" jointer that is missing the guard. You've reminded me I need to make one.

I've been thinking of a plywood two part pork chop guard, where the first section will slide over the outer section as the wood being milled pushes on it.

I picture using an oak or ash spring to push the first section back closed. It all works in my head but I haven't made a prototype.

Maybe the spring would work better if it is closer to the pivot, now I look at the drawing.

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I'm sure this is something people have made in the past, so maybe there's a proven design out there.

[glenn bradley]

Segmented pork chop would be my preference. Here's a snap of one at Sam Maloof's place.

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[Bill Dufour]

I remember pork chop guard on school joiner the spring tab was broken off years ago. teacher had made a lever and counterweight setup to replace the spring action. He said he had to play with the correct amount of weight until it was right.
Bil lD

[jack forsberg]

Segmented pork chop would be my preference. Here's a snap of one at Sam Maloof's place.

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http://sawdust.online.fr/Project/Guard_PlanerJointer/en_Swing7.php

[Kevin Jenness]

Another vote for the segmented pivoting guard. My friend has one of those Polish jointers pictured and I like the way the guard works. It has wood segments joined with leather straps.

It wouldn't be hard to make a bridge guard of wood either with a rigid blade that slides horizontally on a base that adjusts vertically. The drawback would be that the guard would project to the left of the table when jointing edges. Making a hinged blade like a Martin would be a trick, and the Martin bracket is itself quite bulky.

Guarding is a funny thing as people will only use what they find convenient. At my last day job we had a Griggio jointer with a bridge guard that could be lifted above the cutterhead for face jointing. Everyone but me would slide the blade aside as wide as the workpiece instead of running the material under it. I contended that this defeated the design of the guard but convinced no one.

[Mike Kees]

Thanks for the answer I was looking for. My first thought is to make the foldable section using the same technique as I have used to build tambour doors. I use canvas to glue to the slats . Do you think that would work well here ?

[Peter Kelly]

http://www.cps.sm/txm001.jpg

The TXMatic guard by CPS can be had for just under $1,000 https://www.scosarg.com/cps-txmatic-automatic-surface-planer-guard-400-260
Been considering one since the junky plastic porkchop broke off my FS 41 elite.

Scott & Sargeant offer shipping to the US as well as the SUVAMATIC (https://www.scosarg.com/suvamatic-planer-guard-protection) one.

[Jim Becker]

Not inexpensive, Peter, but that's a pretty nicely designed guard! (I think my "regular" Euro guard cost about $300 when I bought it a number of years ago from SMC/Minimax)

[Darcy Warner]

I always liked the Suerty gaurd, the fold down porter/Sidney style pork chop and the yellow fold back design of my 25" German jointer. Although I don't run one on my 30" jointer, just be in the way.

[Kevin Jenness]

Mike, canvas would work but leather would wear better.

[Mike Kees]

Jack I finally had time to check out the design that you gave me the link to. That guy has some amazing ideas collected there. Thanks so much for sharing that. mike.

[jack forsberg]

Jack I finally had time to check out the design that you gave me the link to. That guy has some amazing ideas collected there. Thanks so much for sharing that. mike.
Make sure you click on the hot links within the article showing you all aspects . Personally my preferred is the bridge guard And that is because the intirer cutter block is open to use And push sticks are not required. It’s funny watching people use a jointer without a guard and push sticks only to have them go back-and-forth to get the push sticks. And the laughable reason is they believe the gaurd is in the way.