Rub out finish

[Tom Dovan]

Need some advice on Rubbing out a finish. I'm building a modular desk consisting of a top and 2 base cabinets. I'm making it out of edged maple plywood. I would like to try and achieve as close to a white piano finish as possible (per the customers - my kids). My finishing plan is:

1. Grain filler
2. Dewaxed shellac sealer

My thoughts from here are either Sherwin Williams precat lacquer tinted white followed by the gloss precat lacquer. I have sprayed the precat (HVLP Fuji minimite 4) and it sands real easy and seems it would rub out nice. I spray the lacquer outside and the issue is the weather (I'm in TN). It's super hot and humid now.

Another option is a water based finish like Target Coatings EM6500 tinted white followed by gloss EM7000HBL (I spoke with Jeff Weiss and this was his rec). Apparently this will burn in and so I can rub out the finish.

Any thoughts or other product recs? Anyone have success rubbing out any water based finishes? I have seen mention of General finishes clear poly but can that be rubbed out?


Thanks in advance!

Tom

[John TenEyck]

I use a lot of GF's Clear Poly but have never tried to rub it out. If that's what I wanted to do I think I would start with a different finish, one that burns in like the TC products are supposed to do so I wouldn't have to worry about witness lines.

Whatever product you choose, I would start with that company's sealer rather than dewaxed shellac. I think you will find those sealers will sand much easier than shellac, and that's going to be critical to getting a dead flat and smooth finish.

John

[Wayne Lomman]

2 pack white primer and two pack polyurethane top coat. Any auto paint shop will have it. Cheers

[John TenEyck]

Following up on Wayne's recommendation, if you are looking for a WB 2K Poly, look at ChemCraft.

John

[Travis Porter]

Have you considered Japan dryer to slow the drying time down?

[Tom Dovan]

Thanks for all the advice. After further research I decided to not do a rub out and use the Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus. I purchased the Kem Aqua instead of GF and Target coatings because of local availability. I was going to start with the bin white dewaxed shellac as a sealer (my Sherwin Williams store didn't have the Kem Aqua sealer). I would then like to fill the grain.

Any recs on a grain filler? Will the shellac fill the grain on maple if enough coats are applied?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Tom, do note that you may need some of the GF Extender to get that Kem Aqua Plus to actually lay down on your project. Both John and I had problems with that finish and he determined that the extender helped a lot with it. No matter what I tried (prior to his explaining his experience) I couldn't get a smooth, even surface with the product and ended up flattening it and overcoating with Target EM8000cv so I could get the project completed and installed at my client's home. I did buy some extender and plan to use it with the left-over SW product at some point. I also was trying the Kem Aqua because of the local availability and with a contractor's discount, the price was in line with what I get TC finishes for, but...was pretty bummed with all the extra work I ended up facing.

[glenn bradley]

Have you considered Japan dryer to slow the drying time down?

I use Japan Dryer to speed drying time, not retard it. I use a little mineral spirits to slow cure times and often a bit of BLO to help things go smoothly.

[John TenEyck]

Good luck with the Kem Aqua Plus. As Jim said, I had to add GF's Extender to it (3% by vol) to get it to flow out. Spraying conditions were around 65F and 45% RH. I also found it usually takes an extra coat of KA+ compared to the GF Enduro Clear Poly I normally use, so I'm not convinced the lower price in the can is all that much lower at the end of the project.

Others here have reported great results with KA+, so the equipment used and spraying technique must play a large role in what opinion people have about it.

John

[Tom Dovan]

I did get the GF extender based on previous posts from you guys. I’m planning on a test this weekend. I was going to use EM6500 White but wanted more than a satin sheen. I thought about top coating the 6500 with the 9300 but was worried about yellowing (although Jeff said it was non yekkowing). In addition, it’s my understanding that the top coat doesn’t make the finish stronger? Best to start with a good base? The Ken Aqua white comes in a mid gloss and apparently is very durable so I’m not top coating it. I’m spraying with a Fuji MM4. Hopefully it’s not a disaster!

Thanks

Tom

[C Scott McDonald]

I will be certainly interest in your findings. I was going to get Kem aqua but will see now.