Box Finishes - What are the options?

[Glen Blanchard]

I recently began turning boxes in earnest and am rather enjoying the process, but I HATE finishing. Always have. Flatwork, roundwork, domestics, exotics....I don't enjoy placing the finish on any of them. I'd rather be at the lathe.

Which leads me to my query. I have been using multiple coats of WOP to finish my boxes as I have assumed that this level of protection was needed for an item that is likely to be handled regularly. However, I have watched many You Tube videos of turners making boxes and not a single one was using WOP. Virtually every one is using a friction polish (many followed by a wax) as the final stage of their box making process. I am a bit surprised as I had thought that such a finishing protocol would be relatively short-lived, but I like the idea as they are quick. Thus allowing me to focus on working at the lathe rather than applying multiple coats of poly, letting that sit for days on end to completely cure before I Beall buff them, etc etc etc.

So here's my question. How long lasting are friction polishes and are they truly a good, practical option for boxes? If so, I am open to brand suggestions.

[Roger Chandler]

I think a lot of youtube turners use an easy and quick friction polish for brevity’s sake, as the finishing process can be a prolonged process, and that is not conducive to producing a video, with lots of editing being required [probably the most time consuming thing about video production]

If time is an element, Woodturners Finish [WTF] from General finishes is quick drying [think minutes per coat]. It lends itself to a quick and pretty finish, As it is basically a water based acrylic with extra dryers in it. For small and medium projects, it is a great choice. Large platters, bowls, etc in a warm shop will make for streaking, so just have that in your mind.

[Al Launier]

I also like using several coats of WOP , I think it's a good option.

[John K Jordan]

So here's my question. How long lasting are friction polishes and are they truly a good, practical option for boxes? If so, I am open to brand suggestions.

I use Mylands friction polish on finger tops and magic wands. I was surprised at how durable they are and how they hold up to handling. But I wouldn't use it on boxes since getting it very even on something a larger diameter is more effort AND I don't like the glossy look on most boxes. I did use it on these cocobolo boxes long time ago:

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On boxes I either use "danish" oil, multiple coats over a few weeks just as I use on platters, some bowls, and other things:

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Depending on the type of wood I sometimes use Deft lacquer in a spray can, several very thin coats, some 0000 steel wool between. This is a lidded vessel from eastern red cedar, not really a box, but has six coats of lacquer.

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For ebony, lignum vitae, and other hard, dense woods with very fine grain I often just buff the bare wood, perhaps use pumice or rottenstone depending on the look I want. Black and white ebony, no finish.

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JKJ

[Chris A Lawrence]

I have a 5 gallon bucket of home brew danish oil that i use. Put the piece in and weigh it down with a wire basket and let it sit for a couple hours to a day depending on when i remember its in there. Pull it out, let it drip on a wire rack for an hour or so then wipe it down with a rag. After a 4 days or so i bealls buff it.

[Pat Scott]

I have a 5 gallon bucket of home brew danish oil that i use. Put the piece in and weigh it down with a wire basket and let it sit for a couple hours to a day depending on when i remember its in there. Pull it out, let it drip on a wire rack for an hour or so then wipe it down with a rag. After a 4 days or so i bealls buff it.

Danish Oil is my go-to finish also, but I don't recommend submerging boxes or anything that has a lid in DO. I did something similar to this on a box/small canister that I made 10 years ago and to this day every time you take the lid off you can still smell the finish. Needless to say the box is just a show piece and nothing can be put inside it or it picks up the smell. I left the lid off for months so the finish could cure but it didn't help. You'd think after 10 years the finish has cured but my guess is there just isn't enough air movement inside the box for the smell to go away.

[Chuck Ellis]

I don't do boxes, but do lots of pepper mills... my go to finish is Old master's Sanding sealer in 2 coats, then I use an abrasive grit paste --(I started with Yorkshire Grit, but have since found a source for a formula that works just as well, so now I use my own concoction), then I add 3-6 coats of WOP.... Peppermills will get lots and lots of handling, so I want a very durable finish.... usually takes a week or more to get a good finish on the mills.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Remember, YOU are the craftsman. You need to be satisfied with your product. I also use WOP almost exclusively. I have tried friction polishes, and while they are indeed fast, and for demos where I give away the demo piece, that is fine, and the even faster liquids, like lemon oil + beswax etc. I think they are all just fine for finishing, but you need to be happy. I really do like the feel of the liquids, it makes the warmth of the woods very evident, but IMO, it allows your natural oils from handling the items get into the finish. That, can happen in a few days time if handled often. Just my $0.02. I do tell the people I give the items to what will happen during demos..... Just for my own peace of mind. Don't want them to be unhappy.

[Chris A Lawrence]

I don't know I have many boxes made that after a week to a month don't smell any more even when closed for a while. My mix is 1 part blo 2 parts mineral spirits and 1 part oil based poly. Maybe the poly instead of varnish seals better

[William C Rogers]

Doesn't anyone use Lacquer.? I do, multiple coats. I also use WOP and danish oil. Just depends on the piece to some extent.

[Thomas Canfield]

I have not seen any comments about the type of wood used and that seems to have a big impact on type of finish to use. A lot of the exotic woods such as rosewoods do not require a finish where the softer domestic woods need a lot of help. I like to use my standard finish of multiple coats with buffing of a wipe on type finish such as Danish oils followed by Tripoli buffing and a coat of Renaissance wax. The fit of the lid also has impact since the "pop" fit will not tolerate any finish buildup without possibly being impossible to open.

[John K Jordan]

I have not seen any comments about the type of wood used and that seems to have a big impact on type of finish to use.
A lot of the exotic woods such as rosewoods do not require a finish ...

I wrote a bit about this.

One thing I discovered about one exotic I use a lot - cocobolo. I once used danish oil on cocobolo and it seemed to accelerate the natural tendency to eventually turn dark. In a relatively short time the nice orange and brown of the cocobolo had turned as dark as ebony. I haven't noticed this effect on any other species.

JKJ

[Mike Peace]

Chris Stott in his book Fifty Boxes says he uses lacquer sanding sealer. A couple of coats that only take minutes each to dry was his production finishing technique. Not as shiny as some finishes but fast.