What Shelf Pin Jig do You Use?

[Bob Elliott]

I am getting materials and tools together to start making cabinets for our kitchen. Part of that project will be drilling 1/4" holes for adjustable shelves. What shelf pin jigs do you guys use to drill holes for shelving?

Thanks,

Bob

[Peter Kelly]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/productimages/drilling/woodpeckers/162681.jpg

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodpeckers-shelf-pin-template.aspx

[James Brown]

I made Norm Abram's shelf pin jig. I like the plunge router method better than the drill ... but you have to make the holes before assembly.

Jim

[Brian Nguyen]

The Kreg shelf pin jig is $34 and works perfectly fine for me.

[Jim Becker]

Years ago, I made the wood NYW version of the very nice, but very expensive aluminum MEG jig. It continues to work well for me for the limited amount of cabinet work I do and a plunge router makes very clean holes.

[Von Bickley]

I use one from Rockler and I also use the Kreg. Both jigs work well for me.

[Cary Falk]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/productimages/drilling/woodpeckers/162681.jpg

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodpeckers-shelf-pin-template.aspx

I have the woodpecker jig also. I have a dedicated DeWalt 611 router for it.

[Larry Frank]

I made one that uses a plunge router and jig. It is the WWA jig and you can Google it to find how to build it. With the router and spiral down cut bit it makes made extremely clean holes. I think I made 5 mm metric sized holes. My jig was 36 inches long and I could make the holes along it in less than a minute and with a plunge router could make the holes a consistent depth.

[Dimitrios Fradelakis]

I have the aluminum MEG jig that Jim mentioned and it works great. I also made the NYW version as well which is almost identical to the MEG jig.

[Lee Schierer]

I lay them out carefully with a scale and square. Then use a brad point bit in a drill press to drill the holes. I've never had a problem with shelf wobble. Just a word of caution, make sure you mark your pieces with and UP arrow and pay attention when drilling your holes. DAMHIKT.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I make a wooden version of the MEG jig. Make them in both 1" and 32 mm spacing. Made my first ones using a Bridgeport with a DRO. Figured a cheaper way to make them that's just as accurate. Unfortunately, it's a trade secret.

[Mark Blatter]

I built a jig a few years ago out of 5/4 hard maple. I had a friend with a drilling machine drill it out for me. Gave me a couple of rows with different set back all spaced at 1". It has worked well for me with no wobble at all. The thick maple ensures my drill is straight and keeps the drill from wearing out the holes.

The only time I had a problem was when I did one side from the bottom and the other from the top. I hate it when I leave my brain at home.

I do long for a drilling machine so it is much more automated.

[Peter Kelly]

https://vimeo.com/178413491

I don't own this but it looks pretty cool. $300 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/True-Position-Tools-TP-1935-Professional/dp/B003E46SWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530071317&sr=8-1&keywords=long+pull+jig&m=A2YTSGWBY5NH8W).

[scott vroom]

I use this. http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=32251&cat=1,42311

[al heitz]

Made my own that worked well, except the vertical line was closer to one edge than the other (one edge lined up with front of shelf. Forgott to flip the jig when I drilled the holes for the opposite side. Had to plug them and re-drill them. Other than that, all was well. Also made my own jig for drilling dog holes in work bench.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Shop made "T" that uses a plunge router.

Works as slick as goo through a goose....

[dennis thompson]

I have the Rockler jig too, works fine for me

[Jerome Stanek]

I made one that uses a plunge router and jig. It is the WWA jig and you can Google it to find how to build it. With the router and spiral down cut bit it makes made extremely clean holes. I think I made 5 mm metric sized holes. My jig was 36 inches long and I could make the holes along it in less than a minute and with a plunge router could make the holes a consistent depth.

Have you had any problem with using a down cut bit. They tend to pack the chips and heat up when drilling

[Rod Sheridan]

Hello Bob, I only drill 3 holes per shelf, one where I think I want it, and one above and below.

I use a drill press with a fence with a stop, and a couple of spacer blocks 32mm in size.

regards, Rod.

[Ole Anderson]

Woodhaven with a plunge router with a brass guide bushing.

[Matthew Curtis]

I use a piece of pegboard screwed to an edge guide (scrap wood). It works well for me.

[Larry Frank]

I have had no problems using a down cut router bit. I use it because it tends to make a cleaner hole than an up cut bit.

I built all of the cabinets with the WWA jig. I prefinished all the cabinet parts prior to making the holes. The cabinets were built for Euro style hinges. All of the hinges and drawer slides used the holes.

388614

[Jim Becker]

Down cut is going to make for a cleaner hole, but...don't let it dwell in the material as heat is typically generated from the debris that isn't getting ejected from the hole and that can cause smoldering that can transition to a fire.

[roger wiegand]

I use the Lee Valley jig. Probably over-engineered, but I get perfectly aligned holes every time

[Charles Lent]

I use a piece of pegboard screwed to an edge guide (scrap wood). It works well for me.

I also use pegboard. I've made two versions, enlarging the important holes as needed. The first was made for a 1/4" VIX bit. The second was made to fit a router bushing so I could use my DW611 router and plunge base with a 1/4" bit. A piece of scrap attached to each provides alignment and a clamping surface.

Charley

[Mark W Pugh]

I have the Rockler jig too, works fine for me

This

http://www.rockler.com/jig-itreg-shelving-jig-jig-it174-shelving-jig-set-template-self-centering-bit

[Martin Wasner]

I started with a plywood template and a drill with a 5mm bit. I made the templates with a buddy's linebore. I did that for years.

Then a Delta 13 spindle
Then a Ritter R46
Now we use a Gannomat Proline 50.

Hopefully by this time next year I'll have a router in place.

[Larry Frank]

Just a note about using a down cut router bit. Some seem to be concerned about a "fire" hazard. I have made hundreds of holes and never have observed any issues. I use sharp bits and keep them clean. Maybe there are other applications that I am not aware of.

[Jim Becker]

Just a note about using a down cut router bit. Some seem to be concerned about a "fire" hazard. I have made hundreds of holes and never have observed any issues. I use sharp bits and keep them clean. Maybe there are other applications that I am not aware of.

There's nothing wrong with using a downcut and it does provide the best entry quality. In fact, it's about the best choice for this job. The caution is to not let the down-cut bit dwell in the hole for very long because it really can generate enough heat to cause a hazard. The reason for this is because the chips can't get ejected efficiently and it's the chips that carry the heat away from the cutter. There are plenty of examples of that in the CNC community, too.

[Keith Westfall]

Made a pantry cupboard for a couple - used the CNC. Both side the same, and more fun to watch than do...