Narrow Crown Stapler for Oak?

[Mike Leonardo]

I have a lot of oak molding I need to install and I'm looking for a narrow crown stapler that is capable to reliably shooting through 1" (not 3/4") oak. I love Senco products so my first choice was a Senco SKSXP but at $300 I was looking at alternatives. Possible alternatives are the Senco SLS150mg, Bostitch DWFP12232, or Hitachi N3804AB3. Anybody have any experience using these on oak or similar hardwoods?

I'm really a hobbyist, not in the trades. However, I have an Senco SP1 finish nailer that is 25 years old and has been a super tool so I'm kind of torn.

[Frank Pratt]

Hmm, I've not heard of staples being used to secure oak molding. If ultimate holding power was important & it was going to be painted, then I could see using staples. But then why not use poplar as it paints so much better. Sorry I can't help with stapler selection, the only one I own is an electric stapler.

[Jim Becker]

Most reputable pneumatic narrow crown staplers will put the fasteners in if they are properly adjusted. It's strange to me that you want to use a stapler for molding work, unless they will be hidden by other moldings that are attached on top. Staples are pretty darn visible! I'd use my 15 gage nailer for 1" oak, personally.

Many folks have commented in recent times that Senco products are not like they used to be. There's been quite a bit of previous discussion on Pneumatic tool brands that you might want to read through to get the general feeling on that subject. My current stapler is an older Accuset by Senco and it works nicely, but it's limited in fastener length and no longer meets some of my needs, pardon the expression, so I'll be interested in what others saw on that specific piece of the question.

[Mike Leonardo]

As to why staples over finish nails...

The finish carpenter I learned from normally used a stapler to attach door and window casings for three reasons. First, he believed that a staple is less likely than a finish nail to split the edge of a molding where it attaches to a door or window frame. With a nominal 1/4" reveal on the door/window frame, you only have about 3/8" (my window frames are about 5/8"" material) of the frame remaining in which to drive the fastener. That puts the nail/staple pretty close to the edge of the casing, an area prone to splitting especially in a hardwood like oak. Second, he felt a staple hole did a better job hiding in the grain of the wood, especially wood with a pronounced grain like oak. I have generally found both of these to be true. Its a bit counterintuitive, but I think your eye picks up a round hole quicker than a narrow rectangular slot. Third, he felt a staple had better holding power than a finish nail. If removal is any indication, I'd say he was right. I usually have a much harder time removing narrow crown staples than I do finish nails.

I was planning to use the stapler to shoot the edge of the casing into the door/window frames and a finish nailer to secure the other edge to the framing as a 1/1/2 inch staple won't get beyond the 1/2" drywall. Not sure if this all makes sense but it's how I was taught. Old dogs and all...

Having said all that, I have not hung a lot of solid oak molding so I may go ahead and give the finish nailer a try. Just worried about that edge...

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the explanation. I hope you'll post some photos once you get your tool and put up some of that oak! I'd like to see the end result.

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Senco SKS. It'll shoot staples through just about anything. It's physically large, in case that's a problem.

Mike