SawStop Overarm Dust Collector?

[Steve Mathews]

I recently purchased a SawStop 5hp ICS with the industrial mobile base. I'm thinking of getting the SawStop TSA-ODC Overarm Dust Collection Assembly but not sure how effective it will be with my Powermatic 1 3/4hp dust collector. Any opinions and advice?

[Simon MacGowen]

I recently purchased a SawStop 5hp ICS with the industrial mobile base. I'm thinking of getting the SawStop TSA-ODC Overarm Dust Collection Assembly but not sure how effective it will be with my Powermatic 1 3/4hp dust collector. Any opinions and advice?

Go for it as you will see the addition of the above the table dust collection a great improvement in dust collection, except in edge cuts. 1 3/4HP is strong enough. Alternatively, some connect the overarm t a shop vac.

However, for max. effectiveness, do not use the stock connector with a 90 elbow chute for the overarm. You can find many sawstop users changing it to an angled (45*?) chute.

There is a secondary benefit of using the overarm dust collection: it forces you to use the dust collection blade guard in general, hence enhancing your safety. i once visited a high school shop where it had three SawStops and saw a sign that said that only teachers could remove the blade guard.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

Steve, this has come up in a couple of fairly recent threads. I'm using it with a 2 hp dust collector, and would assess the above-table collection as "better than nothing", but nothing to shout about. I haven't tried connecting a shop vac to the overhead arm, so that might work better, dunno.

I think you'd need a dust collector in the 5 hp range to see really good results both above and below the table, even using a y-adaptor (which I do) as opposed to the t-adaptor that comes with it.

[Simon MacGowen]

Steve, this has come up in a couple of fairly recent threads. I'm using it with a 2 hp dust collector, and would assess the above-table collection as "better than nothing", but nothing to shout about. I haven't tried connecting a shop vac to the overhead arm, so that might work better, dunno.

I think you'd need a dust collector in the 5 hp range to see really good results both above and below the table, even using a y-adaptor (which I do) as opposed to the t-adaptor that comes with it.

Something is wrong here, Nick. I have used ICS and PCS with 1.75HP and 3HP DC (Powermatic) and Y-adaptors with excellent results. Why do you need a 5HP DC for a table saw?

Did you seal the front in your set-up? The huge opening in the saw should be sealed (get the magnet sheets from Staples or other office supplies stores).

The shop vac works great, but it is not my set-up.

Simon

[Ben Rivel]

Definitely go for it. Any suction is better than none IMO.

[Nick Decker]

Simon, what "front" are you talking about sealing? Can you show us some pics of your setup?

[Simon MacGowen]

Simon, what "front" are you talking about sealing? Can you show us some pics of your setup?

http://www.rockler.com/sawstop-industrial-cabinet-saw-3hp-1-phase-230v-36-fence

The opening on the front allows the arbor assembly to tilt so you can make bevel cuts. Cut a magnet sheet or two to cover all the openings.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

OK, might give that a try. I really think, though, that we're looking at two different dust collection situations here. The cabinet, which needs a dust collector, and the blade guard, which needs a shop vac.

[Simon MacGowen]

Before you head out and buy the sheets, try this:

Remove the hose from the overarm dust collection blade guard, turn on the dc and feel the suction with your hand.

Then tape the opening with a cardboard and hold it with masking tape (and cover any small opening not covered by the card board with masking tape too). Turn on the dc and feel the suction with your hand again to see if there is any difference.

The magnet sheets provide convenience when you need to set the saw for angled cuts. The sheets we use are Avery3270, but Staples sheets could be slightly cheaper.

Simon

[Steve Mathews]

Sounds like the SawStop overarm dust collector will work for me, especially considering that the saw will be somewhat mobile. What size shop vac works well with it assuming I use my 1 3/4hp Powermatic dust collector strictly for the lower 4" port?

[Simon MacGowen]

Sounds like the SawStop overarm dust collector will work for me, especially considering that the saw will be somewhat mobile. What size shop vac works well with it assuming I use my 1 3/4hp Powermatic dust collector strictly for the lower 4" port?

The one I saw (used on an ICS) was a 3.5HP 5 gallon shop vac (not 100% sure!), small enough that it was held to the saw with a bungee cord.

An example of the use of the blade guard: https://youtu.be/lUcoU9ka2eo?t=1m17s

Simon

[Nick Decker]

Simon, I'll try what you suggested tomorrow. I also want to check with SawStop to get their thoughts. In looking at the various holes that I might plug up, it occurs to me that they might be providing some needed cooling for the motor.

Steve, I'm guessing a very small shop vac would be plenty, if all of its suction was being used for just the blade guard.

[Simon MacGowen]

Simon, I'll try what you suggested tomorrow. I also want to check with SawStop to get their thoughts. In looking at the various holes that I might plug up, it occurs to me that they might be providing some needed cooling for the motor.


Good point. Please share what you find out. The motors that have been used with the sealed fronts here are 3hp and 5hp and they have had zero issues whatsoever.

Simon

[joseph f merz]

i have the saw stop with the over arm collector.yes better then nothing .i put a seperate vac on it .still it only has a little hole/opening to suck through .plugs with saw dust . i would think there are better ones .unless perhaps they have made changes on it .

[Jack Frederick]

I've had good luck with my SS dust collection. I have a double wye on my 1.5 hp DC. The 4' arm runs to the DC port on the saw and I have a 4nominal x shop vac hose from my old Fein shop vac. I connect the vac hose to the blade guard connection and it does an excellent job, except as noted on edge cuts. Care must be taken to route the small vac hose so it doesn't get in the way. My saw moves around as well and this set up, while not ideal gets the job done.

[Simon MacGowen]

iwould think there are better ones .

I wish there were. When it comes to commercial above the table dust collection, I have not seen any one that is as good as the SawStop dust collection blade guard. I am talking about dust collection effectiveness, ease of use and degree of obstruction. If anyone who knows a better product, please share.

This (non-commercial) one is probably better than SS's dust collection blade for effectiveness, but obviously it is too bulky for any cabinet saw:

https://youtu.be/jmYk6jR2Mw8?t=1m50s

Instead of magnet sheets, the stache can be used to cover the front opening of a cabinet saw, according to the video producer.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

Simon, this morning I tried your suggestion about the cardboard over the big slot in front. Just going by feel, so not very scientific, the difference isn't noticeable to me.

I think it boils down to what I said earlier. Air follows the path of least resistance, ie., that larger 4" port. I may go ahead and get some magnetic sheeting, though, depending on what SawStop says about motor cooling. Every little bit helps, I suppose.

[glenn bradley]

http://www.rockler.com/sawstop-industrial-cabinet-saw-3hp-1-phase-230v-36-fence

The opening on the front allows the arbor assembly to tilt so you can make bevel cuts. Cut a magnet sheet or two to cover all the openings.

Simon

I do the same but, let's qualify "all openings". You need to have return air in order to get air flow. There seems to be plenty of other places for air to get in with the 'tilt-slot' generally covered with a piece of sheet magnet. Sometimes I forget to put it back after making a bevel cut and I do notice..

As to the performance of the overarm in general. The 3HP PCS method of tapping the overarm into the lower cabinet duct supplies sub-optimal suction. I credit the good design of the hood that it works as well as it does. I will now contradict myself and say that although the overarm collection is much improved if a better path to the DC is used, I find the bother of running something like a shop vac in addition to simply opening the tablesaw gate more than I am willing to do regularly. If I have a lot of ripping to do I will swing the overarm hose to a vac or a more direct port on the DC. I got it free when I bought the saw and am glad to have it; I just wanted to share my experience having used it for a few years.

[Simon MacGowen]

I find the bother of running something like a shop vac in addition to simply opening the tablesaw gate more than I am willing to do regularly.

I'd agree so, if yours is not a standalone system like the one I saw in which the woodworker used a 1Hp or 1.75 HP dc for the 4" port and a small vac (probably 5 gallon) for the overarm. He uses an auto switch and so when he turns on the saw, both the dc and the shop vac come on as well. He also uses the overarm to clean his table saw after a job, so that is an extended arm of his shop vac!

By the way, if a central dc system with ports/gates is used, even a 5Hp dc can be struggling, depending on the run of ducts etc. I have seen youtube videos in which woodworkers use a shop vac or Festool CT as the source of suction for a central dust collection system. That is just better than nothing if you ask me, and I bet they are still breathing lots of dust they can't see in their shops.

Simon

[Frank Pratt]

I have my guard connected to the dust collector with a flex from an overhead duct and it works extremely well. I've not tried the factory duct, but can't help but think that it would be too restrictive to do as good a job.

[Bob Falk]

I would be happy to sell you my Sawstop guard/dust collection system. PM me if interested. bob

[Nick Decker]

For anyone wondering, I received the following response from SawStop about plugging the various holes on the cabinet:

"We would not recommend to "plug" any holes because that could possibly cause the motor to run much hotter."

[Simon MacGowen]

For anyone wondering, I received the following response from SawStop about plugging the various holes on the cabinet:

"We would not recommend to "plug" any holes because that could possibly cause the motor to run much hotter."

Thanks for sharing that, Nick.

We are moving the magnet sheets a bit to leave a small opening as a precaution.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

To each his own. Since I couldn't feel any difference at the overarm port with the tilt slot blocked, I'll stick with their recommendation.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have my guard connected to the dust collector with a flex from an overhead duct and it works extremely well. I've not tried the factory duct, but can't help but think that it would be too restrictive to do as good a job.

I don't have a SawStop however that's exactly how I connect my overhead guard for dust collection..........Rod.

[Simon MacGowen]

I don't have a SawStop however that's exactly how I connect my overhead guard for dust collection..........Rod.

Such an overhead set-up with a direct hook up from a shop vac or duct collection to the blade guard should work as well as or even slightly better than hooking up a shop vac through the overarm tube. However, there is one big difference between the former and the latter set-ups: mobility. The set-up I saw of hooking a shop vac to the overarm tube allows the tablesaw to be moved around without constraints, which seems essential for that woodworker.

Simon

[David Kumm]

The overhead guard that looks like the Excaliber design and uses a 4" hose is meant for a dust collector. The smaller guard with the 2" hose is meant for a shop vac. A dust collector is a high cfm but low pressure unit. It won't pull much cfm through a small hose unless the collector runs a large 15+" diameter impeller and even then the design of the blades may further limit the air movement. If you branch a DC into a port below the saw and try to also run a 2" hose to the overhead, the results will be poor at the overhead as the impeller will pull air from the larger port until the static pressure is equal to that of the small port. If you run two 4" ports into a table saw, you need a larger DC, mainly because the restrictions of the guard on top and the blade shroud on the bottom further restrict the cfm and increase the pressure. The larger DC is needed to pull the air than for instance a shaper with a hood and machine port of similar size. There are fewer design restrictions in a shaper than a table saw. A shop vac has a low cfm but high pressure impeller so it works better with a small hose and small guard. The larger guard and hose is the better choice though. Low cfm leaves a large dust envelope around the machine and the small port does not pull the cloud into the collector fast enough to avoid your lungs. Dave

[Simon MacGowen]

The overhead guard that looks like the Excaliber design Dave

SawStop owners: Don't get that recently released floating overarm thing. We had used the Excaliber thing on the ICS for many many years until the overarm dust collection blade guard system came out. The latter outperforms the floating arm system in so many aspects including ease of use, effectiveness, safety protection, and price. The floating overarm is darn heavy to use as compared to the dust collection blade guard.

Simon

[Frank Pratt]

Such an overhead set-up with a direct hook up from a shop vac or duct collection to the blade guard should work as well as or even slightly better than hooking up a shop vac through the overarm tube. However, there is one big difference between the former and the latter set-ups: mobility. The set-up I saw of hooking a shop vac to the overarm tube allows the tablesaw to be moved around without constraints, which seems essential for that woodworker.

Simon

Sadly, my shop is taken over by 2 cars every night, so I too have mobility needs. I've got a spot where the TS is parked most of the time & just has to be moved a couple of feet to be useful. There is a secondary location ducted for when I have to handle big/long stock. From either place the flex allows the saw to be moved a couple of feet in any direction.

I considered the over arm duct, but for reasons I've already mentioned and because I've got a router table in the right extension, I went overhead. It was quite a bit cheaper too.

[Simon MacGowen]

From either place the flex allows the saw to be moved a couple of feet in any direction.
.
A good alternative if the amount of movement needed is limited. Another alternative to the overarm tube is two overhead hoses located apart for use with the saw when it is moved away from its usual spot.

Simon

[Frank Pratt]

A good alternative if the amount of movement needed is limited. Another alternative to the overarm tube is two overhead hoses located apart for use with the saw when it is moved away from its usual spot.

Simon

At each location I have a 6" for the cabinet & a 2" for the guard.

[Roger Feeley]

I have an ICS with the overarm collector with the original fitting (I will have to look to see if it's 45 degrees or 90). I have it connected to a Penn State 1.5hp dust collector. I find it it very effective depending on what I'm doing. I'm not sure anything captures MDF dust.

I do find dust on the table. I also find it in the gap between the fence rail and table. I seldom sweep dust from in front of the saw. I seldom see dust on my apron. I have an air purifier but don't need it often and never because of the saw.

Does that help?