Using Paring/PatternMaker Chisels

[ken hatch]

On an earlier thread I posted that I use paring/pattern maker chisels on almost every joint. A couple of folks asked for a post on the use paring chisels.

One of the most common uses is setting up a first class saw cut of the tenon shoulder. Of all the ways I've tried, a long flexible paring chisel is both the easiest and gives the best result. Here are a couple or three photos of paring the shoulder line (thanks MsBubba for the camera work).

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The length of the blade helps the accuracy placing the blade and once in the cut it is very easy to control both because of the length and flexibility.

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At about this point I will usually bring my off hand up near the cutting edge to press down on the blade.

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Finishing off the cut. It is ready to saw.

After sawing the shoulder I will usually use a wider paring chisel to finish cleaning up the end shoulders of the tenons because of how much control the length and flexibility gives you. These tenons will not have end shoulders to clean up because they are going to be slats. I'll try to remember to make photos when I do have some shoulders to clean up.

Long paring chisels also excel at final clean up of pins and tails.

ken

[James Pallas]

Ken, Is that one of your new (old) paring chisels? If it is you got some very nice chisels or you've had the spit and polish out already, or that is one you use for photo shoots only:)
Jim

[Kees Heiden]

Thanks Ken! That is indeed a pairing chisel purpose I hadn't thought of. I usually do this tediously with a wide chisel, perpendicular to the marked line, moving the chisel along the line little by a little. This looks a lot quicker.

[ken hatch]

Ken, Is that one of your new (old) paring chisels? If it is you got some very nice chisels or you've had the spit and polish out already, or that is one you use for photo shoots only:)
Jim

Jim,

It is my photo shoot only chisel :D. I used one of the Sorby chisels. I haven't gotten around to sharpening the Marples, work don'tchknow. I finally have a couple of days off this weekend and will get 'em ready to meet wood. BTW, the Marples look near new. it is hard to believe they are pre-WWII. I did do a quick sharpen of the widest Marple chisel a couple of days ago and it was a pleasure both on the stones and on wood. I know by now it shouldn't but the balance and feel, how how light and nimble, these pre-war chisels are amaze me every time I use them. It also begs the question: Why can't modern makers duplicate.

ken

[ken hatch]

Thanks Ken! That is indeed a pairing chisel purpose I hadn't thought of. I usually do this tediously with a wide chisel, perpendicular to the marked line, moving the chisel along the line little by a little. This looks a lot quicker.

Kees,

Give it a try. It is quicker and better as the shoulder line bottom is smooth and even. The long blade will register to the shoulder and with the off hand near the cutting edge once in the cut you have very good control. While it can be done on narrow boards with a bench chisel, the paring chisel does it better.

ken

[lowell holmes]

I have had a leather chisel roll full of mostly Lie Nielsen chisels for al least 25 years. They are scalpel sharp and ready to use. They will produce translucent shavings.
I will be using them today.

[ken hatch]

I have had a leather chisel roll full of mostly Lie Nielsen chisels for al least 25 years. They are scalpel sharp and ready to use. They will produce translucent shavings.
I will be using them today.

Lowell,

After 25 years of use I'm sure you know them well and are very comfortable using them. It is good to hear you are back in the shop.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

Though my chisels are sometimes used to make a vee notch, my marking knife also does a fine job of it:

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For me it works best bevel down.

Note this is a heavier than average marking knife made from an old plane blade.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Though my chisels are sometimes used to make a vee notch, my marking knife also does a fine job of it:

388336

For me it works best bevel down.

Note this is a heavier than average marking knife made from an old plane blade.

jtk

Jim,

Shows there are many ways to do the job.

ken

[bridger berdel]

Though my chisels are sometimes used to make a vee notch, my marking knife also does a fine job of it:

388336

For me it works best bevel down.

Note this is a heavier than average marking knife made from an old plane blade.

jtk

Interesting marking knife, with the obtuse tip angle. My best yet marking knife is kinda opposite that, acute tip angle, thin blade, slender light handle. Only the last 1/8" or so is sharp. /thread hijack

[Jim Koepke]

My thin blade marking knife gets used mostly when marking dovetails.

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It was made from a saw blade and has an acute angle where the bevels come together. Mine is beveled over the length of the angle. It is occasionally used for light cutting.

The two knives on the outside are made from the same plane blade.


Shows there are many ways to do the job.

Almost always is.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Almost always is.

jtk

Ain't that the truth:)

ken

[Phil Mueller]

One of the reasons I love the creek. My method has always been similar to what Kees mentioned, because that’s all I’ve ever seen on videos, etc. I have some long two cherries that I’ve ground for paring...will definitely give this a try. Thanks Ken for sharing!
Phil

[Stewie Simpson]

Ken; did the backs and side bevels require much work. From the photos you posted the lands look quite sharp near the cutting edge.

https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=388258&d=1529690453

[ken hatch]

One of the reasons I love the creek. My method has always been similar to what Kees mentioned, because that’s all I’ve ever seen on videos, etc. I have some long two cherries that I’ve ground for paring...will definitely give this a try. Thanks Ken for sharing!
Phil

Phil.

I think you will fid it is much quicker and makes for a better shoulder.

ken

[ken hatch]

Ken; did the backs and side bevels require much work. From the photos you posted the lands look quite sharp near the cutting edge.



Stewie,

No, the the chisels are pretty much ready for wood. I still have a hard time believing there was this nice a set of pre WWII chisels available at any price point.

ken

[lowell holmes]

I have a paring knife, chisels, razor knifes . . . . all have been used to chop and pare.:)

[Stewie Simpson]

Stewie,

No, the the chisels are pretty much ready for wood. I still have a hard time believing there was this nice a set of pre WWII chisels available at any price point.

ken

Ken; very nice purchase with those paring chisels. I spent today modifying this partial set of firmer chisels to beveled edge with sharp lands for dovetail work. A bit under 2hrs work per chisel which includes the initial grinding on cbn. Honing work starts with the 400g stone and ends at 13000.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0079_zpsa28sf5dx.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0079_zpsa28sf5dx.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0080_zpsavaewdlw.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0080_zpsavaewdlw.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0081_zpscsqn6psk.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/firmer%20to%20bevel%20edge%20chisels/DSC_0081_zpscsqn6psk.jpg.html)

[ken hatch]

Ken; very nice purchase with those paring chisels. I spent today modifying this partial set of firmer chisels to beveled edge with sharp lands for dovetail work. A bit under 2hrs work per chisel which includes the initial grinding on cbn. Honing work starts on the 400g stone.




Stewie,

I expect those will make wonderful dovetail chisels. I have a set of Ash London Pattern chisels and they are so light you almost forget they are in hand.

Good work,

ken

[John Stevens]

Many thanks Ken, for sharing your experience with paring chisels. Thanks also to those who added theirs to this thread.

—John

[ken hatch]

Many thanks Ken, for sharing your experience with paring chisels. Thanks also to those who added theirs to this thread.

—John

John,

Anytime, I hope it helps,

ken

[Brandon Speaks]

This is an interesting thread, I have been toying with the idea of getting a couple dedicated pairing chisels. What would be the best current maker to look at. Looks like Sorby and Blue Spruce are the main two current makers.

I do have one Japanese slick that I need to use a bit more, but thought it would be good to get a western variant as well before deciding which system to invest in.

[ken hatch]

This is an interesting thread, I have been toying with the idea of getting a couple dedicated pairing chisels. What would be the best current maker to look at. Looks like Sorby and Blue Spruce are the main two current makers.

I do have one Japanese slick that I need to use a bit more, but thought it would be good to get a western variant as well before deciding which system to invest in.

Brandon,

I have the Sorby chisels and they are very good paring chisels. While the Blue Spruce paring chisels are beautiful I have a problem with A2 iron in general for use in chisels and really think it is not the best steel to use in paring chisels for reasons that have been beat to death. As always with woodworking tools, YMMV.

ken