Spindle adapter for threading jig

[Mark Greenbaum]

I am in the process of another jig for the G0766. I am making a threading jig for urns and screw on lidded boxes. I am starting with 3/4-10 UNC x 12" lg all thread rod as the lead screw. I will need an adapter to fit the chucks that have 1-1/4"-8 threads (female). So I need an adapter that is 3/4"-10 unc (female) x 1-1/4-8 (male). I have gone through a few searches on Google, and have gone to local Woodcraft store and no luck yet. Anyone have a source?

[John K Jordan]

Could you make one with a threaded adapter and mount an MT2 socket on your rod? For example, https://www.amazon.com/5016-Tailstock-Adaptor-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B0064JJ49Y

Another option might be to have one machined. Any good machine shop (or an amateur with a metal lathe) could make one with the chuck threads on one end and a threaded socket to match your 3/4-10 rod.

The guy at Best Wood Tools has a lot of experience in building such things. He has 1-1/4x8 adapters for his Baxter threading jig I suspect could be adapted to your threaded rod. In fact, he might even sell a just the 10 tpi rod and chuck adapter from the threading head (or just buy the threading head). http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/bathma.html

JKJ

[Bert Delisle]

I am in the process of another jig for the G0766. I am making a threading jig for urns and screw on lidded boxes. I am starting with 3/4-10 UNC x 12" lg all thread rod as the lead screw. I will need an adapter to fit the chucks that have 1-1/4"-8 threads (female). So I need an adapter that is 3/4"-10 unc (female) x 1-1/4-8 (male). I have gone through a few searches on Google, and have gone to local Woodcraft store and no luck yet. Anyone have a source?
Check with Oneway they have these adaptors in stock. Good luck with your build, you may find the accuracy of concentricty a challenge, the accuracy of all-thread is fine for nuts and holding things in tension but my experience with my jig build was less than acceptable for my urns, so I finally bit the bullet and bought a purpose built threading jig. Now I do threads up to six inches in diameter on urns up to eight inches tall. Could never do that on my home built jig.

[Brice Rogers]

Hi Mark,

There are adapters that go from 3/4 x 16 to 1" x 8, and adapters that go between 1 x 8 and 1-1/4 x 8. But for adapters going from 3/4 x 10 to either 1 x 8 or 1-1/4 x 8 seem elusive - - as you have found.

You might want to consider buying a 1" x 8 tpi threaded rod. They are available from places like McMaster-Carr, and perhaps MSC, etc. . Visually it doesn't look all that much different than 10 tpi. This would allow you to use the 1 x 8 tpi rod for both advancing the chuck and screwing into the back of the chuck. Also, you can buy "jam-nuts" pretty easily. 1" x8 is a common chuck size. I'm not positive but I think that you can get adapters to go to 1-1/4 x8.

Finding 1-1/4 x 8 threaded rod and matching nuts might be a bit challenging. The 1-1/4 x 7 is more common for some reason.

Another alternative would be to take two threaded rods of the desired thread/pitch and turn down one end to a common diameter and stick the two ends into an unthreaded coupler (like a piece of brass rod the you drilled from one end to the other (co-axial). You could either silver solder them together or used setscrews. But alignment and run-out might be a challenge. The threads need to be protected during the turning process. I've used both dual jamb nuts or a coupler and jamb nut to hold threaded rod. I have also held it with copper tubing, etc.

John's advice to find a machinist might make sense. The machinist could turn a shoulder for the chuck end that would be virtually guaranteed to be perpendicular to the axis of the threads.

There is a Youtube video by Mike Peace where he builds his own threading fixture, and it might be of interest. He addressed making a nut with a shoulder to help register the back of the chuck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIGS-fcl2LM&t=669s

I will be following this thread because I too am thinking of making a threading fixture. But I might just go to chefwarekits.

Good luck, Mark

[Paul Gilbert]

I am speaking off my head here, (I won't quote exact sizes and TPI unless you request that I go out into the shop and look) but what I did was buy the lead rod of the same thread size as my Robust style (PM knock off) live center. Then I use the same adapter that I use to hold my Chuck onto the live center.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I just sent an email to Oneway to see if maybe they have a suitable spindle adapter available.

I also have a couple of Nova adapters for the Shopsmith, that possibly could be re-bored and tapped for 3/4-10 UNC (currently 5/8" straight bore), and re-threaded to 1-1/4-8 (currently whatever size the Nova G3 chuck has for internal threads). Not sure who can be found to do that.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Oneway responded with this selection:
https://oneway.ca/index.php?route=product/search&search=3941-222

A little pricey for my tastes, so I may see if I can get my Shopsmith adapter modified here at work. If not, I may have to go that route.

[Brice Rogers]

Mark, I rewatched the Mike Peace video and heard where he mentioned getting the spindle adapter from Pennstate. So, I looked on Penn State and find that they have the adapter from 3/4 x 10 to 1" x 8 for around $17. Hurricane tools also has a similar one for a couple bucks less. On my G0766, I ended up with three 1" chucks so I had originally bought the $9 adapter from Griz. If you have a 1" chuck, then this adapter should work for you. But if you are heavily invested in 1-1/4" chucks, then this might be a costly direction.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Brice:

Thanks for the leads. I've already seen these adapters, and they are not suitable for my chucks. I too have the 1-1/4"-8 TPI threads and adapter in both of my chucks (Grizzly 5.5" and Nove G3). Nova has nothing to offer. And I just sent an email to sales@bestwoodtools.com to see what their custom piece price would be. Another option is for me to have a machine shop grind the end of the all-thread rod down to 5/8" diameter and either remove the adapter from my Nova as I currently use it, and use the Shopsmith 5/8" straight bore adapter I already have. I am not to keen on this idea as it involves removing the adapter for every threading operation. I am still in the fabrication stages, so I have time.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I have been designing this jig in Rhino v.4 to make sure I have all the dimensions correct.

[Brice Rogers]

Thanks for posting and giving me some more ideas. I have wondered if it would be of value to have a lock on the cross feed to remove any slop when making the final pass? I'm looking forward to seeing how you device progresses.

[Mark Greenbaum]

That's good idea. I'll incorporate that one. In fact last night, I added locking wheel to the lateral adjuster in 3D CAD.

I tried to add some details to the above submission such as:
1) The shafts will be turned down to 5/8" diameter x 1" long to fit the NOVA adapter for the Shopsmith.
2) The NVA Adapter will have the male threads machined off, and new threads cut for 1-1/4"-10 TPI to fit my 2 chucks.
3) If I decide to get different thread pitches I can get the shafts ground down to 5/8" diameter x 1" long, and keep using the rest of the assembly.

I did get the collet and cutter ordered this AM and it should be here in about 3 days.
Too busy this weekend to get the assembly cut and assembled. I hired my 13 year old son to help me clear out my side of the garage and get it more organized. We threw away a bunch of stuff, but after moving everything back in - I still have too much stuff.

[Mark Greenbaum]

After studying the design of y threading jig, and seeing inputs from many others, I've decided to have removable side plates so I can accommodate a different lathe in the future. Perhaps at some point I'll get a midi or mini lathe for smalls, and the threading jig may live there. So the horizontal members that the side plates attach to will have threaded inserts to all for quick change overs.

I did get the machinist at work to make the threaded adapter from an old Nova adapter for the Shopsmith. 5/8" bore thru and 1-1/4-8 TPI male out. It fits the inside of the Nova G# chuck like a glove. The collet should be here tonight, and the cutter should arrive next Thursday. I'll post pictures as I build. This weekend is "Honey-Do" time.

[Mike Peace]

I agree with Bert on the problems with using coarse rod. After making one and publishing an article on it, I hate to admit it but I was never happy with it and wound up buying one. I am not a machinist and approached the project trying to get by without any machining and buying off the shelf items. It was a fun project though so if your primary goal is the challenge and fun of making one, go for it. :)

[Mark Greenbaum]

I agree with Bert on the problems with using coarse rod. After making one and publishing an article on it, I hate to admit it but I was never happy with it and wound up buying one. I am not a machinist and approached the project trying to get by without any machining and buying off the shelf items. It was a fun project though so if your primary goal is the challenge and fun of making one, go for it. :)
I can purchase other 3/4" diameter thread rod configurations from McMaster Carr and get the hex nuts to fit. So it is adaptable. I'll see it I can make it work, then decide if I can afford to go further. The collet has been delayed 'til Monday.
Mike Peace - your article and videos are really inspiring and if this works, all the better. If it doesn't, maybe post an addendum to your video and make a disclaimer?

[Mark Greenbaum]

I've added the lock knob for the lateral slide, and hex bolts to be able to replace the side plates. I have about 50 5/16"-18 threaded inserts left over from a drawer handle project, so I can use them embedded in the horizontals.

[Mike Peace]

I can purchase other 3/4" diameter thread rod configurations from McMaster Carr and get the hex nuts to fit. So it is adaptable. I'll see it I can make it work, then decide if I can afford to go further. The collet has been delayed 'til Monday.
Mike Peace - your article and videos are really inspiring and if this works, all the better. If it doesn't, maybe post an addendum to your video and make a disclaimer?
Thanks for your support. I don't have a video showing how to make a jig. I did post this video which one might consider a disclaimer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIGS-fcl2LM

[Mark Greenbaum]

Thanks Mike. I have been doing Honey-Do's all weekends, so progress has been slow. Almost there, though. I'll post pictures and maybe a video if I can get it to work like expected. It should do well for my amateur abilities.

[Marvin Hasenak]

A little late to the party on this one. But there is a guy on IAP that makes specialized tooling for penturners and one of the items is spindle adapters. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f349/custom-made-penturning-tools-accessories-92501/
If he doesn't stock it, I bet he could make what you need.

[Mark Greenbaum]

A little late to the party on this one. But there is a guy on IAP that makes specialized tooling for penturners and one of the items is spindle adapters. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f349/custom-made-penturning-tools-accessories-92501/
If he doesn't stock it, I bet he could make what you need.

Thanks, Marvin, but I had a Nova adapter for 5/8" diameter Shopsmith shaft remachined to fit inside the adapters for 1-1/4"-8 TPI at work. So I am goo now. Cut the side verticals tonight (measure twice, cut once, and still got it wrong - luckily too long). I'll drill all of the holes for spacer tubes and all thread rods tomorrow, and assemble by the weekend. Might have threads to take picture of by Sunday.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Just an update - I have made steady, but slow progress. The base assembly is almost completely fabricated and fits on the lathe well. The Leadscrew riser assembly ended up too tall, and I had to slot the upper side mounting holes to lower the center of the all-thread shaft. I had a lot of 5/16-18 UNC thread inserts remaining from my pantry drawer project, so they are getting used wherever possible. So many trips back and forth to HD for the appropriate screws, but getting really close. Pictures will be coming when completed. I am really getting anxious to turn a vessel and put treads on the inner and outer joints.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Well, I got the jig all finished, and FAIL. I was showing my wife my wonderful creation (which has occupied my spare time for about 4 weeks) and I placed my Japanese Maple Mallet in the Nova G3 chuck and placed it onto the leadscrew adapter. As soon as the wood started to contact the cutter the downward load moment showed me that my dovetail on the right side was nowhere near tight enough. The whole riser assembly started to get pulled downward. Of course, I shut the lathe off, and first thing this morning I woke with a new brainstorm to repair the hold down mechanism. Perhaps it will work as is for a small objects (the mallet is about 12" long with a 5" diameter striking head, probably 3 lbs, plus the chuck), But I really want to go large.

[Brice Rogers]

I sent you a PM.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Not sure if Brice got my reply, so here's a recap:

I went to the jig this morning and changed out the cams the push the right hand dovetail guide. That actually seems to work for locking the sway out of the leadscrew base assembly. So, a bit more confident, I turned a small cylindrical jar of spalted silver maple, and cut the recess for the treads to be cut into. I re-installed the jig, and transferred to Nova G3 with the jar to it; installed the collet and cutter, and I was ready to go. Now the problem appears to be the vertical slop in the 2 x 3/4"-10 UNC nuts that are embedded into the leadscrew block. When the cutter engages a portion of perhaps out of round wood, it creates a bucking reaction within the leadscrew. I had planned to make keeper/backlash eliminator washers; so that's my next step. So, I am shooting at a moving target.

I may have to save my spare change (yeah, where's that?) and spring for a Baxter or chefwarekits milled aluinum assembly. For the cost of a Baxter, I may try to find a used small combo mill/lathe and make my own out of aluminum and steel.

[Mark Greenbaum]

UPDATE: Yesterday I reinforced the 3/4-10 UNC nuts into the leadscrew block with Dunham's Putty, and drilled a couple of 3/4" flatwashers for screws and capped them over the nuts (after the putty had set, and I confirmed the screw still worked). So now hopefully the torque and the leadscrew, and the thread backlash has been negated. Tonight, I just re-cut the treads on the cylinder box, and the cam locks on the lateral slide and the backlash/torque issues seem to be resolved. I got pretty good threads on the spalted silver maple (I changed the belt to the high speed setting to get full 2500 rpm's). Now I am going to clean up the ouside of the box, and make a lid with appropriate oversized tenon for the male threads and do a trial fit up. Fingers crossed, and photos to follow.

BTW: The cams locks on the right side dovetail track lock the lateral slide pretty well. I might add another lock knob on that all-thread just for safety, later.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Success - sort of. At least I was able to cut threads on both the male and female, and amazingly they screw together. Here's a few picture of my rig and 1st attempt.
390219390220390221390222390223
Whole assembly; ower vessel on the adapter on the chuck; The modified Nova/Shopsmith adapter (that this thread was started to find); Lateral adjustment all-thread (1/4-20 UNC x 20" long); Leadscrew feed (3/4-10 UNC x 12" long, modifeied to 5/8" diameter to fit Nova adapter) and showing one backlash adjuster washer in place.390224 Jar with lid screwed onto it. NOT quite dead centered, but at least I cut mating threads first try. YIPPEE!!

[Brice Rogers]

Nice going Mark !

[Mark Greenbaum]

Thanks, Brice. I was ecstatic that my first piece actually fit together. It would've been great to have more threads to work with, but I had no idea how much space it was going to require. It also would be really cool to match the grain lines, but I'll get that later. I have a lot to learn, but I can figure it out.

[Scott Kuykendall]

Here is a video by As Wood Turns of his version of a threading jig with links for the parts that are not very expensive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAcgfq_WthM&t=331s

[Mark Greenbaum]

Here is a video by As Wood Turns of his version of a threading jig with links for the parts that are not very expensive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAcgfq_WthM&t=331s

Scott: Thanks for the link, but I have already done my system, and so far it works. I might have about $90 total in it, using fasteners and wood I had in the shop, and going to online suppliers for the collet and cutter. It is way cheaper that a decent cross feed drill vise of that magnitude. They cost between $60-$120 online, plus shipping, and I'd still have to buy the collet and cutter. Besides I had to get from the bed of the lathe to center of spindle (11.125"), and the cross feed vises would still need to have a riser block. Like I stated before if I need to spring for a store bought well manufactured unit, then I guess I'd have to save up and wait.

[Brice Rogers]

Mark, I thought that the video "As the wood turns" highlighted the value of using CA glue to make the thread form look nice without chip out.

BTW, there isn't a lot of strength or purpose in having real "sharp" threads. If you look up the form of the US national thread specs, they don't come to points. They are trucated (slightly rounded or squared off) on both the peak and the trough. I know that the national thread specs don't apply to the threads that we put into wood and that all we are looking for are two pieces that screw together. But perhaps the logic behind the spec does have some value. I suspect that the reason for the threads being truncated is because there is little strength in the tips of the thread. Also, I suspect that threads that come to a sharp point are likely to look a little ragged (when in metal) or show chipping with wood or other brittle materials. If you want, I'll post a copy of the national thread diagram.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Brice: As a Designer of products for the past 45 years, I am aware of thread configuration. I did use CA glue to strengthen the at best questionable spalted silver maple. And I sanded the peaks down a bit to get the sharp edges off. Remember this was basically a thrift-driven DOE (Design of Experiments). I am trying to keep the cost as low as possible, and achieve repeatable results. It has been a learning experience, as well as a test of my patience and ability to solve problems as they arise. I feel confident that I have come to a pretty good design, that is able to be modified if need be. I have been enthralled with the "screw threads on wood" issue for a few years, and after seeing Dennis Paullus' demonstration at our club, and Mike Peace' video, I felt I could do this, too. If it's a failure, the route I've gone, it's not a waste. I've learned, and the few dollars I've invested so far, can mostly be repurposed in a "REAL" Jig.

[Brice Rogers]

Mark, thanks for the explanation of your background. I didn't know your familiarity with thread specs. If I came off as condescending, it wasn't my intention. I myself, while not an expert, have learned a lot about thread specs in the past 5 or 10 years as I do single-point threading on steel shafts using my metal lathe.

Yes, I would agree that you came up with a design that works and you overcame a number of issue. On some of my projects I consider that the "journey" is at least as important as the end destination. :)

[Mark Greenbaum]

Hey Brice, sorry if I came off as harsh. I really enjoy the camaraderie of this forum, and I do learn a lot from all of the participants. Back when I was kid (Paleolithic Epoch), one of my first drafting competitions was drawing a Locomotive Screw Jack. It looked like a trumpet with a huge screw coming through it. Classic drafting book exercise. I was captivated by the form of Acme Screw Threads. I won an Honorable Mention in the Detroit Industrial Arts Competition of 1966. But not for that one, but a simple truncated cone development drawing. Thanks for watching this show, and I hope we all learn how to do cool stuff, better.

[Dane Riley]

There can't be any play anywhere. I suspect you will need to lock the dovetail with locking screws tapped in the sides.390381

The play on the threaded rod must also be eliminated. Mine has adjustable pressure on the rod and pressure on the nuts. Band-aids on top of band-aids. No play when you try to move the chuck. If the hollow form is thin you need to dampen the vibration with your hand. But it threads well, large or small.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Dane:

Thanks for that advice. I have already locked the dovetail slides with cams, and the lateral feed screw with a lock knob. I am going to add a tensioner to inhibit the leadscrew self-advance issue this weekend. Your rig looks really nice. What size screw is the leadscrew? It looks huge.

[Dane Riley]

Dane:

Thanks for that advice. I have already locked the dovetail slides with cams, and the lateral feed screw with a lock knob. I am going to add a tensioner to inhibit the leadscrew self-advance issue this weekend. Your rig looks really nice. What size screw is the leadscrew? It looks huge.

It is 1.25 x 8, so the chuck threads directly on. When Enco was around it was not expensive with a 20%o ff and free shipping. That may be why they got bought out.

The wood blocks with screws that push them into the leadscrew eliminate self feeding and play. Adjustable is good to be able be able to eliminate play while still being able to turn the leadscrew.

I know exactly what you a talking about when you mention your problems.

[Mark Greenbaum]

It is 1.25 x 8, so the chuck threads directly on. When Enco was around it was not expensive with a 20%o ff and free shipping. That may be why they got bought out.

The wood blocks with screws that push them into the leadscrew eliminate self feeding and play. Adjustable is good to be able be able to eliminate play while still being able to turn the leadscrew.

I know exactly what you a talking about when you mention your problems.

Dane: Take a few more pictures of the whole jig. I am sure I can glean some ideas from it. Thanks.

[Harold Wright]

Try Hartville Tool . They are on the internet and carry a lot of the adapters. Maybe you will get lucky.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Try Hartville Tool . They are on the internet and carry a lot of the adapters. Maybe you will get lucky.


I already have the adapter for my rig - custom machined from my old Nova G3/Shopsmith adapter. Thanks, though.

[Len Mullin]

Mark, you should check out Alan Stratton's video, he posted this week on his As Wood Turns woodturning site. He built his own threading devise, that will thread north american woods. Woods that aren't usually as hard as is needed for threading, you might pick up some ideas from his threader.
Len

[Mark Greenbaum]

Mark, you should check out Alan Stratton's video, he posted this week on his As Wood Turns woodturning site. He built his own threading devise, that will thread north american woods. Woods that aren't usually as hard as is needed for threading, you might pick up some ideas from his threader.
Len

Len: Thanks for that reference to Alan Stratton's video - I had already seen it, and Also we had Dennis Pauliss demonstrate at our club a few months ago, so I am familiar with all of the listed parts and techniques. I could not justify the cost or having yet another vise, so I basically have constructed one made of hardwoods. I did learn that I have to allow for at least a 1/2" of threads on the lids and vessels, because 10 threads per inch is pretty coarse. 5 threads should be really sufficient to accommodate most local hardwoods that I would choose to have threaded lids incorporated. The adapter that Alan suggested is not useable for my chuck. Oneway does offer on custom order an adapter from 3/4"-10 UNC to 1-1/4-8 TPI, but it was about $40. I lucked out having access to a great machinist. (Reminder to self - make him a threaded box and take in donuts). I hope this thread inspires others to try to use threads. It's an adventure and adds quite a bit of excitement to the craft and the final projects. Hopefully tonight I'll make another (better) object to showcase.

[Dean S Walker]

Check with one way lathe company

[Mark Greenbaum]

Dean: Read above. The JIG is completed, and the adapter has been made from Nova/Shopsmith adapter. Thanks.

[Dane Riley]

dane: Take a few more pictures of the whole jig. I am sure i can glean some ideas from it. Thanks.
ok

390462390463390464

[Mark Greenbaum]

ok

390462390463390464
Dane: Very stout and impressive jig setup. Is that an urn the you're putting threads into?
What is your lateral slide (y-axis - if the leadscew is x-axis) made of? It sort of looks like a drawer slide mechanism.

[Dane Riley]

Dane: Very stout and impressive jig setup. Is that an urn the you're putting threads into?
What is your lateral slide (y-axis - if the leadscew is x-axis) made of? It sort of looks like a drawer slide mechanism.

Yes. It was so tall I needed the steadyrest, usually I don't.

The Y slide is some sort of extrusion I found at the local scrapyard. I lock it with the screws at all four corners. I went to a lot of trouble to eliminate backlash from the screw mechanism.

[Marvin Hasenak]

For XY axis movement the best I have found are the CNC printer kits of parts on eBay. The easiest XY axis to convert for woodturning jigs are the camera macro sliders.

The first ones come in various lengths, contain a lead screw with mounts, and 2 rods with equipment and end mounts. The lead screws come in 8mm through about 16mm diameter screws, same with the support rods. About $30 for a 8mm kit that has about a 10 inches of movement.

The latter have pretty tight tolerances, but I would consider them an NOT heavy duty. The tiny knobs are a pain to operate, but that issue can be fixed with homemade knobs. Even though I have a Sherline mill, my mill of choice is my homemade mill using 2 macro camera sliders and scraps of aluminum. It uses a Foredom handpiece for a power source. The 2 macro sliders cost me less than $40, the aluminum from the scrap dealer about $10 and the Foredom I already had and I can remove for other uses.

[Brice Rogers]

I just bought an X-Y drill press cross slide for around $40 (free shipping). I was considering casting and/or machining the equivalent to this. But the price of this unit seemed low enough to skip all of that other work. Unless it is terribly sloppy it should work for the base of a threading jig. Now I need to get a threaded rod and nut/coupler. Fortunately, I have a metal lathe and could make my own rod and/or nut if necessary.

Mark, you were the person who inspired me to take this step towards my own threading jig. I post results as I travel down this path....

[Marvin Hasenak]

I just bought an X-Y drill press cross slide for around $40 (free shipping). I was considering casting and/or machining the equivalent to this. But the price of this unit seemed low enough to skip all of that other work. Unless it is terribly sloppy it should work for the base of a threading jig. Now I need to get a threaded rod and nut/coupler. Fortunately, I have a metal lathe and could make my own rod and/or nut if necessary.

Mark, you were the person who inspired me to take this step towards my own threading jig. I post results as I travel down this path....
Some of the better drill press cross slide vises have gibs that you can adjust the "sloppiness" out of the cross slide. I believe the one I had was a Grizzly tools version.

[Mark Greenbaum]

UPDATE: I did make another threaded box yesterday. The base is nice tight Osage Orange (Bois D'Arc), and the lid is kiln dried Poplar. I made the thread sections approximately 1/2" long, to get about 5 threads of engagement. I did notice a bit of eccentricity on the leadscrew assembly, so once I got the threaded connection to work (tedious, at best), I screwed the 2 parts together and re-turned the whole assembly as one piece. Here's some pictures of the finished pieces.390551390552390553
My x-axis adjustment is fine (just loosen the knobs underneath and slide, but then my y-axis reference is lost. I have to re-square the base to the bed, and find the approximate relation to the cutter. I also use the banjo for a dead stop. Kind of finicky, but I can re-think my design options, an solve these issues also. So far, I think I have $85 invested and a lot of thought process and design and fabrication time.
I will try again today, and try to get a single piece of wood to have the grain match up, top to bottom.

NOTE to Administrator - can you please change the title of this thread to DIY Threading Jig?

[Dane Riley]

UPDATE:
My x-axis adjustment is fine (just loosen the knobs underneath and slide, but then my y-axis reference is lost. I have to re-square the base to the bed, and find the approximate relation to the cutter. I also use the banjo for a dead stop.

NOTE to Administrator - can you please change the title of this thread to DIY Threading Jig?

I have a piece of aluminum that sits between the bed ways. This maintains the Y axis position and the square alignment. Notice the twist mark that reminds me which way to take up the small amount of slop.

X axis realignment can be done by eye. If you are off a very slight amount it will just take off more material from one side of the thread.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I checked my lathe for center to center of the spindle and tailstock, and it it dead on center. So I put the jig up on the bed of the lathe, and it appears that the leadscrew is centered against the spindle drive center, but is high by about 1/8" on the tailstock side. Luckily I can make the right hand side slots longer, and effectively drop the tailstock end. I figure I'll have to check parallelism each setup because my carpentry skills may not be so great at achieving a 12" tall pillar that plumb and square in 3 directions. Oh well. Shooting at a moving target. PULL - Shoot.

[Dane Riley]

Scott: Thanks for the link, but I have already done my system, and so far it works. I might have about $90 total in it, using fasteners and wood I had in the shop, and going to online suppliers for the collet and cutter. It is way cheaper that a decent cross feed drill vise of that magnitude. They cost between $60-$120 online, plus shipping, and I'd still have to buy the collet and cutter. Besides I had to get from the bed of the lathe to center of spindle (11.125"), and the cross feed vises would still need to have a riser block. Like I stated before if I need to spring for a store bought well manufactured unit, then I guess I'd have to save up and wait.

My cross feed drill vise had way to much play to work for threading. When I saw this video I tried to readjust mine. One axis was fine already, the other one would not turn with a reasonable amount of force without excess slop. I ordered a new lead screw and nut from Grizzly. Now I can adjust it so no slop and I can still turn the handle.
I should have complained when I first go the thing. At least the parts were cheap, Way less than the shipping.
M