Router size for lift??

[Steve Catts]

Good morning and Happy Father's Day!

I currently have the 3hp Dewalt 625 plunge router attached to my router table. It is a beast and adjustment is really awkward. I like the power though for tougher jobs. I want to get a lift and assume that the 625 can't be adapted for that use. Is that right?

What routers do you recommend for use with a lift? a 2-1/4 hp unit with a fixed base or no base at all? Is there a 3 hp that would work? Brands/models? I want to get to where I have a strong router in the lift, a 1-1/2 hp plunge for freehand and a laminate trimmer.

Any and all thoughts appreciated!
Steve

[Jim Becker]

Most router lifts require the circular motor like you get with a PC7518 or the Milwaukee equivalent. While you can use the 2.25hp type routers in a table, you'll be better served for harder jobs and larger cutters with a 3hp type router.

[lowell holmes]

I can't visualize a router lift, but I have a extended saw table with a router plate in the extension.
I mount my router under the router plate allowing me to adjust the router bit height as required.
An added advantage is being able to use the saw fence to run boards against when routing
lengthwise.

[glenn bradley]

I have run a Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker lift in my router table for over a decade. The Porter Cable 7518 is the other de facto standard for router table lifts. Either will set you back about $300. I think one of my Milwaukees is a CPO refurb . . . the reason I say "I think" is that I couldn't tell the difference even on close inspection.

[Doug Dawson]

I have run a Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker lift in my router table for over a decade. The Porter Cable 7518 is the other de facto standard for router table lifts. Either will set you back about $300.

Agreed on the PC 7518 (the motor alone is the 75182 and that's what you want.) That seems to be the universal standard of what lift manufacturers are thinking of for what to put in their lifts. I have one in my Powermatic lift.

Another one to check out is the Makita 1101. That would have been my second choice (less expensive US$180 only.) Appears to be designed for lifts. Less power though.

[Bruce Page]

Another option if you want to keep the 625 is to install a Router Raizer kit in it. I have one installed in my PC892. Is it as good as my Benchdog lift/PC-7518? No, but it works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Router-Raizer-RZ100-Precise-Adjustment/dp/B00005JRJR

[Dave Cav]

I had a home made router table in the wing of my cabinet saw for years. It was an older single speed version of the PC 7518. I hated using it because it was difficult to adjust and the motor had to be taken out to change cutters. Recently I got a Jess Em router lift and rebuilt the entire router table. It's one of the best additions I have made to my shop in years. Cutter changes are quick and easy and adjustment is very precise. I use it all the time now.

[Mike Wilkins]

You can't beat the PC 7518 for power in a router table, coupled with a good lift system. Been using the PC with the Woodpeckers lift for years and currently on my 2nd built router/cabinet set-up. Some catalogs even offer the router without the lift for a few dollars less. Nice to have a dedicated machine for the router table, and not have to install/uninstall the unit for other tasks.

[Jim Becker]

While I have the PC7518 in my table, if I were buying "today", I'd probably go with the equivalent Milwaukee, given the recent years' indications of lower quality on the PC, particularly in the circuitry. A good percentage of the CNC machines sold today with routers, instead of spindles, tend to have the Milwaukee motor in them and I'm sure there's probably a reason for that beyond just color preference.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I have an old Hitachi 3Hp router that has lots of power but I wanted to be able to adjust it from on top of the table.So I bought a Router Raiser for about 100 bucks that fits onto the router.(check if the dewalt will worK).A year or so ago the mechanism got a little stiff to use so I looked at getting a router lift but would also have to buy a new router.(total cost about $1000 Cnd) The lifts are really nifty and I like how they work but couldn't bring myself to spend the money. So I took the lifting mechanism apart and cleaned and lubed it and it should be good for another 10-15 year. Not quite as high tech as the lifts but just as accurate and effective at a fraction of the cost.
As for having the router in the saw extension I had that and can honestly say it was the ONLY thing in my shop I didn't like(even though it is a space saver) So this winter I built a new separate router table and I LOVE not having to fuss with stuff on the table to route or stuff on the router to saw. Happy camper!!


I just checked and the Router Raiser does work with the Dewalt 625.

[Charlie Jones]

I like the big routers for table use. I just replaced my Dewalt 625 with a Triton. It has a built in lift. My 625 had to have bearings but now is ready for another 25 years. I built my own "Router Rasiser" for it.

[Bruce Page]

I just checked and the Router Raiser does work with the Dewalt 625.

Fred, it does work with the DW625 according to the link I provided above.

From the manufacture:
"Fits the following routers: Craftsman 27505, 27506, 27510, 27511, DeWALT DW625, DW621, Elu 3337, 3338, 3339, Freud FT2000, Hitachi TR12, M12V, Makita 3612 series, Porter-Cable 693, 7538, 7539, and Ryobi RE600."

Bruce

[Keith Hankins]

use as big as you can get for a lift. I use 7518 (PC) and for my boy, I got the big triton. Great setup.

[Alex Zeller]

After failing to pick out a new router (was down to the Triton and the Bosch) the wife bought me the Bosch. I like the router a lot. It has the power switch in the handle so you don't have to take your hand off the handle to turn it on or off. It also came with both a plunge and fixed bases. But to have the switch on the handle it has contacts on the router which connect to the base. The look like they will last decades without a problem but it means the router can't be mounted in a lift unless the left is made to work with the contacts (otherwise there would be no way to turn it on). The fixed base is real easy to adjust. It has a through the table adjustment and one turn equals 1/16th of an inch so it's very easy to fine tune. I just don't use a router that much to justify getting a lift so the Bosch works out well for me.

[Richard Hash]

I used an upside down Dewalt 625 for years in a router table and was never very happy with it either. I've since gone to a PC 7518 (motor only) in an INCRA Mast-R-Lift II and really like it. I could never really access the collet from the top well enough using the Dewalt, and was always nervous with bit bits not having as much shank inserted as I would have liked (note, if you want some excitement in your life, try a router collet extension and a big panel bit. I bought one, used it for the amount of time it takes to turn a router on and then immediately off, and have never used it since).

I still have the Dewalt 625, but it went underwater in Hurricane Harvey (it actually still semi-powers up). If anyone wants it for parts, let me know.

[Nick Decker]

"(note, if you want some excitement in your life, try a router collet extension and a big panel bit. I bought one, used it for the amount of time it takes to turn a router on and then immediately off, and have never used it since)."

Probably depends on the quality and balance of the collet extension. I use panel bits, up to about 2.5" diameter, in my Muscle Chuck quite often. No problem.

[Bruce Page]

(note, if you want some excitement in your life, try a router collet extension and a big panel bit. I bought one, used it for the amount of time it takes to turn a router on and then immediately off, and have never used it since).


Richard, I also use a Muscle Chuck in one of my table routers without any problems, it makes bit changes a snap. Can you describe what you were using and what was “exciting”? The info may be helpful to others.

[Richard Hash]

This was maybe 15'ish years ago, and I don't recall the vendor (it was maybe 3" long) but as soon as I powered up, it was obvious that it wasn't balanced properly. It started things shaking and I couldn't get it powered off fast enough, it was enough to raise the hairs on my neck. That was enough to convince me to look into addressing my actual problem, which was that (with that setup) I couldn't get the collet up high enough to easily change bits from the table surface and/or sink enough shaft in it to feel safe. Once I moved to a better lift/router setup I never looked back.

I am sure there are high-quality brands of collet extensions, whatever I had wasn't one of them. It would have torn the router apart and flung pieces all over my shop if I had left it on, I wasn't interested in finding out how long that would have taken! In general a large mass spinning fast on the end of a long shaft can raise eyebrows unless things are just right..

[Nick Decker]

I've put Muscle Chucks (silly name, IMO) on two different routers and have been impressed with the quality in both cases. It adds maybe an inch of length, compared to the standard collet. In the case of the PC 7518, the quality of Muscle Chuck machining was much better than the stock collet, which made me nervous from day one.