Dovetailing on an angle

[Derek Cohen]

I was in two minds whether to post this, but since the method is a practice, it would be great to get feedback, since the strategy I have come up with is complex. Can you do this another way?


Each row has 4 drawers, and these will be shaped to match the bow across the chest.


https://s19.postimg.cc/hhu7c8war/2a.jpg


At the start, the drawer fronts are to be left straight. This maintains the reference sides. The ends of each drawer front have been bevelled to match fit the bow of each drawer blade.


This is a fitted (practice) drawer front (posted last time) ..


https://s19.postimg.cc/uai9ofl2b/24a.jpg


The drawer side has been dovetailed to the obtuse angled side (again, details in my previous post: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ApothecaryChestWeekend8.html) ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/un9nul8gz/22a.jpg


The need now is to dovetail the acute angle ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/kooqvwjbn/2a.jpg


This is where it gets interesting. It you look at the lines drawn on the drawer side, if made coplanar with the drawer front, the dovetails will need to me cut at an angle. That is much too complicated, and likely to be a poor fit.


Then, if the baseline is cut square (as usual), the dovetail will end up in the centre of the side (and not extending up from edge of the board).


The only way I could come up with for a fit that simplified the tail board was to rebate the pin board, so ....


https://s19.postimg.cc/xg2x2gqjn/11a.jpg


The rebate needs to be as deep as the drawer side (for a flush fit), and square to the side (so the baseline of the tail board fits flush).


The first step is to mark the baseline ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/9p3jkb0mb/3a.jpg


https://s19.postimg.cc/s4o0hpu6b/4a.jpg


On the piece above, you can also see the rebate markings.


The rebate is now cut parallel to the side ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/77rsd2jar/5a.jpg


Remove some of the waste with a chisel ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/dlgvgb8r7/6a.jpg


Now that rebate needed to be both straight and flat. It needs to be an equal depth along its length.


It could have been chiselled, but that is less efficient. A shoulder plane as this would not ensure a square shoulder without extra work to create an absolutely square edge for a tight fit. In the end I came up with this idea to plane it using a LN Edge Plane.


A spacer was attached to plane to the 1/4" depth ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/twgzcm5tf/7a.jpg


https://s19.postimg.cc/fq18hei3n/8a.jpg


The finish was spot on ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/jz5yjl0sj/9a.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

Transferring


The rear of the tail board, with blue tape used to create a fence ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/m3qbkoxab/13a.jpg


Tails on pins ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/yid3l0wib/14a.jpg


https://s19.postimg.cc/6i900r0rn/15a.jpg


The socket shoulders are deepened to create a socket that undercuts the baseline ..


https://s19.postimg.cc/l1g5261mb/16a.jpg


Because the angle was so difficult to chisel, a trimmer router was used to remove most of the waste ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/x3biwbikj/17a.jpg


... before the remainder was removed ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/7xakphp03/18a.jpg


Coming together


The fit ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/eaznsr1lv/19a.jpg


The angle ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/gfk0tuayb/20a.jpg


This is a rough idea of what it will look like once the drawer front is shaped ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/iwvs14aab/21a.jpg


The two sides that must be made for all drawers ...


https://s19.postimg.cc/gfk0tuio3/22a.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[ken hatch]

Derek,

My head hurts.

As always beautiful work,

ken

[Derek Cohen]

:)

Thanks Ken.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Amazing, does each column of drawers will have different angles to work with?

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

Each column (vertical row) should be the identical. The two outer columns and the two inner columns should each be very similar with perhaps a minor variation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Jim

Each column (vertical row) should be the identical. The two outer columns and the two inner columns should each be very similar with perhaps a minor variation.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Won't they be mirror images of their opposite column?

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Yes, that's what I was saying. Close to, or exactly, a mirror image of each other.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kees Heiden]

Pfff, high class work. My hat off!

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Kees :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Kananis]

Derek, that rebate is an awesome and creative solution. Kudos. I love doing stuff like this where you really have to think outside the parameters of the basics...

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks John. I got the idea from the conversion I did on a Stanley #79 (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html) (into a sliding dovetail plane).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Joe Bailey]

Your precision astounds (as usual).

Just a thought, but might it be easier to cut the baseline of the tails board at the (known) rebate angle you are currently cutting on the drawer front?

387690

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Joe, I did mention at the start one option was angling the baseline of the tail board. However, it is extremely difficulty to keep the angle consistent and coplanar with one another. The fit will end up with gaps. I have experimented with this method in the past to experience the issue.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Pallas]

I always enjoy figuring things out. You have a solution that works for you and you are comfortable with it. Sometimes it amazes me that something really bad happens to us when an angle is thrown into the work. We go to great lengths to be rid of that angle. I try to tell myself that it is just cutting to a line. It does absolutely no good. I'll spend hours and go through all kinds of twisting and turning to make it the most complicated thing. Then I see someone pick up a saw look at the reflection and just cut it.
Jim

[David Justice]

Those are some beautiful dovetails and a beautiful piece! I have made some compound angle dovetails, but these make my head hurt just looking at them!

[andy bessette]

DC--thanks for the detailed presentation and great photos.

[Warren Mickley]

I was in two minds whether to post this, but since the method is a practice, it would be great to get feedback, since the strategy I have come up with is complex. Can you do this another way?


Another way? Yes. I think it is much easier just to cut the dovetail on an angle without all the rigamarole.

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[Richard Hutchings]

No rigmarole. Words to live by!!

[Jeff Ranck]

A lot of work, but I can't think of another way if you don't want to cut the dovetail baseline on an angle. I am always amazed at the solutions you come up with for things!

Jeff.

[Derek Cohen]

Another way? Yes. I think it is much easier just to cut the dovetail on an angle without all the rigamarole.

387706387707

Warren, I have used that method before (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DesigningTheDrawers.html), and it is not one I would like for 24 drawers.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DesigningTheDrawers_html_me74eb0f.jpg

My aim was to find a reliable method. Although it looks complicated owing to the rebate, on one, and the bevel, on the other, these strategies simplified the construction by creating flats, and enable the avoidance of mating bevels. The relevance here is when you face the sides of the drawer - is there a gap where the edges meet?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bob Glenn]

Nice work, Derek. I ran into that problem on my curved front drawers in the gallery of my secretary. I struggled through the first two drawers with poorly fit dove tails, then took the easy way out and made the rest of the drawers with through dove tails with applied fronts. I like your way better. Bob Glenn