Something different...

[steven c newman]

Besides the Chisel threads, and the sharpening threads...maybe a little break is needed?:rolleyes:

Anywho, cleaned this "Thing" up this morning..
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Saw may or may not have come with the mitre box. Was silk-screened as a Popular Mechanics saw....meh..just another No. 4
387420
There are a few numbers on the angle scale...not sure how close they are...Base?
387421
About as bare bones as you can get....and, IF the board should happen to bow ( like this one) you either made a new base, or?
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Angle lock? Hoop can be adjusted for the saw in use....not much support for the wood, though..
387423
You do have to clamp the piece in place, for it to work..
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Even then...meh. may just keep the saw...
387425
Seems to be a lot better than them plastic handle things being sold now...

Any ideas about a maker for this mitre box? How wide to make that gap between the halves?

[Bill Houghton]

I've had a box like that, made by Stanley if I recall; but, now that I own a Millers-Falls Langdon box, I see no need even to touch one of those. Better than cutting by hand, but only a little.

As you make a new base (high grade ply, like Baltic birch, would be good), I would make the gap between the two halves of the back the same width as the current box; certainly not wider.

[steven c newman]

Have two "Main" mitre boxes in the shop...Langdon No. 75, and a Stanley No. 2246......Toolbox has a little fold-up GEM mitre box.

Had a Stanley 150 come through the shop, last year.....finally sold it off, when the Stanley #2246 showed up.

Thinking maybe rip that 2 x 10 it is sitting down a bit, joint the sawn edge, and see how this thing does...Might be good for a jobsite saw....

[Jim Koepke]

Looks just like my small miter box other than the color. Mine is blue and Craftsman is printed on the wood iirc.

It is possible to put shims on the angle stop to adjust the angles if needed:

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Mine doesn't have the little plate and screw pointed to on yours. Wonder what it is supposed to accomplish.

Mine sits between four dogs, two in the bench, two in the vise, quite well. It seems to work well with a sharp saw and the stock being held by hand.

The gap between the two sides of the saw holding gizmo are adjusted to the saw being used. Screws, springs and a bit of tension make for an accurate cut no matter which saw is being used. My Japanese pull saws work just as well as my western back saws.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Seems the two screws act as guides for the angle lock plate, there is a thumbscrew inbetween them, to tighten things in place. Sliding plate has been ground with a "knife-edge" to fit into the notches in the orange angle finder. Have tightened the hoop down to support the saw....There wasn't any springs, though. Just 4 screws, three were thumbscrews.

[Jim Koepke]

Seems the two screws act as guides for the angle lock plate, there is a thumbscrew inbetween them, to tighten things in place. Sliding plate has been ground with a "knife-edge" to fit into the notches in the orange angle finder. Have tightened the hoop down to support the saw....There wasn't any springs, though. Just 4 screws, three were thumbscrews.

It has been a long time since mine has been used. If my memory works it will get a closer inspection to refresh my memory later today.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Today, while out Rust Hunting.....there was a backsaw on one of the tables....dead ringer for the one I have hanging up in the shop..Disston #4, 14" long.....looked like the teeth had been too well worn down....price tag said .......$20:eek: Pass. Wasn't any sign of a mitre box to go with it, even......

Sargent #79 ( clone of a Stanley 78)....base looked good, cutter was so-so...spur was present.....and that was all there was to that plane.....and they still wanted $10?:eek: There were 3 block planes sitting beside it...looking like someone had tossed them into a tub, mixed thoroughly, and hoped things came out right...they didn't....Same stall as the 79....other than a decent #408 plane...wasn't much to brag about...

May get around to cleaning up the mitre box, later.....trying to decided on a stick of lumber to use....

[Jim Koepke]

Looked at the miter box, no springs. My brain needs some new memory chips.

The screws allow for adjustment of the saw guide to keep the saw from drifting in the cut.

jtk

[steven c newman]

There was a second saw in that tub where the miterbox was...in a lot worse shape. I may try the PM saw for some of the joinery stuff....has more teeth than the current one. Finer cut, perhaps?

[steven c newman]

Ok, something a bit different....that Sargent #408 iron needed sharpened up, soo...regrind the rounded over bevel back to a flat 25 degree bevel...then a few stones..
Coarse..
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Medium..
387575
Then the paper trail..of 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and finally..
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2000 grit. Paper sits in the oil left on the medium stone...then..
387577
Stropped. chipbreaker was polished up, no gaps were seen...installed things into the plane...
387578
Not too bad....have another plane, a Stanley #4, that is about the same age..
387579
Both of these planes cost me the same amount...$8 each. Both were Rust Hunt finds...