glue question

[Tim Sander]

The glue in my shop has just about had it with age and freezing. With my my latest project I need to glue the table top slab together and it's a good reason to buy some knew stuff. Was thinking maybe titebond III or maybe polyurethane glue. I need it to sand well and hopfully not show up when it is stained if my joints aren't perfect. Your thoughts and experience would be welcome

[David Fried]

Tim,

For those of us with unheated shops it is that time of year. Last year my Titebond II turned into silly putty after a season of freeze/thaws. :mad:

I switched to Titebond III and have been happy. I'm really slow so I appreciate the longer setup time. Otherwise, it seems just like Titebond II to me.

I have moved all my glues, oils, and finishes out of the shop for the season. They are lining my kitchen counter until the spring thaw. It sure will be handy if I decide to try making Per's Dovetail Chicken!

Dave Fried

[Alan Turner]

I don't know Titebond III, but had creep problems with Titebond II when I tried it several years ago. I use only Titebond I if I am using a PVA as I have never had a creep problem with it. As to the staining issues, I don't overuse in tems of quantity, and just let it bead up, taking it off later with a scraper. Fast and safe. It would be my recommendation to never use water or a wet rag to wipe the excess as you will fill the pores and never get it out. If I am real concerned about a joint, esp. an edge joint, I will tend to use Unibond 800 as it does not creep ever, and is gap filling. For example, this is what I use when gluing up a 12/4 workbench top and need strength, gap-filling, and a long open time. I use a lot of hot hide glue as well, but find it difficult to use on longer edge joint glue ups. These are just my opinions of course, YMMV.

In terms of working in a cold shop, I now have one of those too, and am trying the thrift stores to source a ratty old $5 electric blanket as I have read that this is an effective way for a cold weather glue up.

[Chris Barton]

I mostly use Elmer's Probond glue for my furniture projects. It seems to have a little better open time than TB II and I like the consistency better.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I mostly use Elmer's Probond glue for my furniture projects. It seems to have a little better open time than TB II and I like the consistency better.

Isn't 'ProBond' what Elmers used to call their poly glue?

KC

[Chris Barton]

Hi Kirk,

I'm not sure about that. I do know that Probond is a PVA glue similar to TB but, in a test I saw a few months ago in one of the woodworking mags they found Probond to have a higher tensile strength than TB. But, the issue for me is not the strenght (TB is a very strong glue) but really more about open time and smoothness of the glue liquid. Probond seems "smoother" and less sticky when I am applying it.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have come to really like Franklin Liquid Hide Glue.....Takes a LOT LESS glue and I have purposfully tried to break a glue joint made with LHG, and I broke the wood instead of the glue joint. Other than that? It's Tite Bond I. I've experienced way too much glue creep with Titebond II and have not tried Titebond III yet. Oh, Did I happen to mention that I really like Liquid Hide Glue??? :rolleyes: :D