Does anyone make a 3hp+ router with both a fixed base and plunge?

[Alex Zeller]

I have a project coming up where I'm going to make some raised panels out of PVC sheets. That means a large diameter bit and nothing I currently own will do the job. So I'm looking for a 3hp router with variable speed. I'll spend most of it's time mounted to a table so a fixed base will make life easier to mount. But it would be nice to be able to have a plunge base. With both types of bases I could remove it from the fixed base, vs removing the base from the table, and slide it into a plunge base. Bosch sells a 15 amp router with both but they list it as 2.3hp. I'm not sure if it's just not as efficient of a motor as the other 15amp routers or if Bosch is being conservative in their rating. I do like the idea of a plastic case for when you need to take the tool with you to a job but it's not a deal breaker. If I had to buy one of the bases separately because it wasn't part of a kit that would be ok. I have an extra $350 built into the project for a new router so that's about what I would like to spend.

I'm also thinking about get a stand alone router table. If I do I would like something that isn't a bench top design. I kind of like the MLCS Heavyweight Router table (https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table_2.html#heavyweight_table_anchor) (without the slider). One of the cons for the table is that it's difficult to install and remove the router. With two bases and the table tilting up it shouldn't be a problem. This is made by the Burt group and Grizzly sells a similar one but only the slider. The sliding table looks nice but I haven't found just how far it slides and I fear it'll only be useful for smaller pieces of wood.

[Robert Engel]

I think the Triton TRA001 will suit your needs well.

3 features sold me on it:

1) Built in above table height adjustment. Accurate enough for me & saved $$$'s on a router lift.
2) Above table bit changes - Extremely nice upgrade from my previous router.
3) The lowest speed is perfect for big panel raising bits. Plenty of power. I recently completed my first panel raising task with it was a dream compared to my old Hitachi M12.

Mine is a dedicated table router, but it can easily be detached from the insert plate and used like a standard plunge router.

I recommend a manufactured insert plate with changeable rings. I opted for the Kreg which came predrilled for the Triton base. OK but I probably would go with Incra to do over again. Money well spend compared to making your own.

That table you're looking at is for a dedicated router (no insert plate). Plus, a miter gauge is not necessary. Take a look at this one (https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9580-Phenolic-Router-Aluminum/dp/B00XMUMY2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1528295382&sr=1-1&keywords=router+table+top).

Hope this helps.

[John Patric]

I recommend check the Triton TRA001.


Second that. I use mine in the router table and have had it for 8 years I think. It didn't even bog down when I put my fingers through it :)

[Jim Becker]

To your specific question, I don't recall seeing any kind of 15amp ("3+hp") routers with multiple bases. These beefy machines are most likely used for dedicated purposes most of the time since they are heavy physically and are best suited to "harder jobs". Most folks prefer something lighter for general use...myself included.

[Alex Zeller]

The MLCS router table doesn't use an insert. It's one of the cons about it. I'm leaning towards it because it's a cast iron top and very heavy. It's around 130 lbs so it has a feel to it sort of like a cabinet saw. It might be a little heavy to be portable but I could add wheels to one side. I figure the weight should make it feel like I'm not going to push it around the shop and the cast iron be less likely to get damaged if I need to take it to a job. It's a little cheaper in price than the Kreg (which has an MDF laminate top) and about the same size table. I like the fence on the Kreg better but it's not a deal breaker as I could install a nicer one down the road if I felt it was really needed for my use.

Most of the routers I was looking at had a through the table adjustment, I didn't see the Triton having that feature. I was hoping with a through the table adjustment I could get by without adding a lift. I've made it decades without a router mounted in a table so a part of me doesn't want to spend too much on a tool that I may not use too often. Then there's the tool guy in me that loves tools. If I find myself using it more often than I thought I would I think I would opt for a shaper.

[John Patric]

The Triton has through the table height adjustment.

[Steve Demuth]

If the motor is limited to drawing 15 Full Load Amps at 120V, it's at most a 2.2 or bit more hp motor. Manufacturers may put higher numbers on nameplates based on a motor's ability to develop higher hp for short periods under high load or the marketing departments whims, but for sustained use, no motor can generate more hp than the power coming through the wires. If you push a 120V motor beyond 2.0hp or a little more sustained output, you either burn out the windings on the motor, or more likely, trip the 15A circuit breaker (that should be) protecting the motor. If I you can get 3.0hp out of a motor at 120V and 15A, you've got a free energy, perpetual motion machine.

So, with that said, the Bosch "2.3" hp dual base router is a sweet tool, and can handle large diameter cutters if you don't overdue the cutting depth / removal area. I've got several, and have used the one in my router table at a pretty high duty cycle, with good results.

[Van Huskey]

If the motor is limited to drawing 15 Full Load Amps at 120V, it's at most a 2.2 or bit more hp motor. Manufacturers may put higher numbers on nameplates based on a motor's ability to develop higher hp for short periods under high load or the marketing departments whims, but for sustained use, no motor can generate more hp than the power coming through the wires. If you push a 120V motor beyond 2.0hp or a little more sustained output, you either burn out the windings on the motor, or more likely, trip the 15A circuit breaker (that should be) protecting the motor. If I you can get 3.0hp out of a motor at 120V and 15A, you've got a free energy, perpetual motion machine.


Tools with universal motors are almost always marketed (in the US) with the instantaneous stall power. These HP numbers are only useful to generally compare power between similar tools and in my experience is reasonably accurate in the relative sense.

The big Triton is probably the best router in a table without using a lift, it was designed for that use. That said I don't know if using those criteria are really the best for determining what to buy. The reason I say this is I don't know anyone who does woodworking for any period of time that has only one router (I do know some that don't have any routers by choice). The big routers are a pain to use freehand (save the Festool 2200 which is an anomoly in its class and feels like a much smaller router due to ergonomics) and the smaller routers lack power in a table.

IF the long term budget allows my plan would be a big PC or Milwaukee in a lift and something like a Bosch MRC23 for handheld use. The MRC23 is my favorite non-Festool router for most handheld work. If the budget is tighter you could pick a midsized router that works well in a table and handheld for the short term than get a big motor/lift later on and then you wouldn't be saddled with trying to do handheld work with a monster.

[Brian Gumpper]

Triton and DeWalt DW625 come to mind.

[Van Huskey]

Triton and DeWalt DW625 come to mind.

Neither of those offer a fixed base like the OP wants, there are several plunge base only 3hp routers.

[Robert Engel]

The MLCS router table doesn't use an insert. It's one of the cons about it. I'm leaning towards it because it's a cast iron top and very heavy. It's around 130 lbs so it has a feel to it sort of like a cabinet saw. It might be a little heavy to be portable but I could add wheels to one side. I figure the weight should make it feel like I'm not going to push it around the shop and the cast iron be less likely to get damaged if I need to take it to a job. It's a little cheaper in price than the Kreg (which has an MDF laminate top) and about the same size table. I like the fence on the Kreg better but it's not a deal breaker as I could install a nicer one down the road if I felt it was really needed for my use.

Most of the routers I was looking at had a through the table adjustment, I didn't see the Triton having that feature. I was hoping with a through the table adjustment I could get by without adding a lift. I've made it decades without a router mounted in a table so a part of me doesn't want to spend too much on a tool that I may not use too often. Then there's the tool guy in me that loves tools. If I find myself using it more often than I thought I would I think I would opt for a shaper.Yes, the Triton has that feature.

I don't see the advantage in a cast iron top & I wouldn't want to lug a heavy cast iron table to a jobsite, wheels or not, but that's up to you. OTOH, a well made laminate top isn't light, either.

Laminate type tops can be nothing but cheap melamine or can be well made. They would hold up well especially if you make your own.

I would take a look at the router tables & fences sold by Marc Sommerfeld Tools. The are anodized aluminum and not cheap, but appear to be very well made. In fact, I almost pulled the trigger when I built my new table, but opted to save the money. The do not have an insert plate, but come predrilled for the Triton routers.

I made mine of 2 layers of 3/4 MDF with the horizontal (thick) laminate on both sides. Edge with hardwood.The only issue with that is routing in for the insert, which can go really well or not so well ;-) and making a fence.

Here is mine, it is mobile but obviously not what you would take to a jobsite. It can be as simple as a top with a foldable stand.

387320

[Malcolm Schweizer]

They all seem to go up to 2 1/4 hp with interchangeable bases, and then above that they are "one design" without interchangeable bases. Maybe the higher torque is the reason- just a guess.

[Alex Zeller]

I had mentioned the Bosch MRC23EVSK because it stood out as an anomaly. It comes with a plastic case, both a fixed and plunge bases, the fixed base has what they call micro fine adjustment (down to 1/152"). I'm in no way attached to this specific model, it just was the only one that had variable speed, 15 amp, and both types of base. I have two routers, both pretty old and both are fixed. If either one had a 1/2"collet I probably would use one of them. I don't know how much I will use the new router (since I rarely use the two I have) but I feel having both types of bases would give me the maximum usefulness out of it.

That's a nice router table Robert. It's not that I'm against using MDF, I just like cast iron better. I've looked at some of the aluminum tables but I think I just wouldn't get the use out of it to justify the investment.

I have an almost ideal situation. My neighbor is a full time woodworker (when he feels like working). His shop is full of industrial equipment. Because I've done him so many favors over the years I have full access to his shop. If these panels were going to be made out of wood I would be doing it with his equipment. But being PVC I don't want to mix in the shavings with wood. Being a guy who loves tools I always want my own tools.

Van the only reason I didn't bid on that Laguna LT24 bandsaw was it was too far away for me to drive there. That would of meant paying someone to ship it up here and the potential headaches.

[Jim Becker]

Malcolm, I really believe it's because these higher powered routers are most typically purchased and utilized for specific purposes. PC, for example, offers a fixed base and a plunge base version of their heavy router, but the plunge version doesn't utilize the same form factor for the motor as the fixed based does. The former is completely integrated into the plunge format and the latter is removable from the base. The folks who did our soapstone counters used the heavy PC plunger to do the drainboard routing when they were doing final fabrication in our driveway. They could have used the fixed base for that with their jig, but they also use the plunge capability for some other things that were not part of our particular job and wouldn't have been appropriate for a fixed base machine. (I had a conversation with them about that, but don't remember the details since it was back in 2003)

[Robert Stanton]

I bought the Porter Cable 7518. Within the warranty period the speed control failed. Shipped to repair facility and they replaced with an identical speed control that failed within 3 months. Take caution that helpful members of this site will praise the reliability of their 10-20 year old PC routers but trust me....they are not the same quality as they have been in the past. I wound up ordering a separate speed control from Australia to make my router work. I have heard the same about Milwaukee routers although I have no personal experience with them.

[johnny means]

Malcolm, I really believe it's because these higher powered routers are most typically purchased and utilized for specific purposes. PC, for example, offers a fixed base and a plunge base version of their heavy router, but the plunge version doesn't utilize the same form factor for the motor as the fixed based does. The former is completely integrated into the plunge format and the latter is removable from the base. The folks who did our soapstone counters used the heavy PC plunger to do the drainboard routing when they were doing final fabrication in our driveway. They could have used the fixed base for that with their jig, but they also use the plunge capability for some other things that were not part of our particular job and wouldn't have been appropriate for a fixed base machine. (I had a conversation with them about that, but don't remember the details since it was back in 2003)

Agreed. Likewise, they don't make truly industrial level combination machines. At a certain price point buyers aren't looking for double duty compromises

[Chris Parks]

At this power level I think a CNC spindle is way better in a table. More power, way way quieter and a far better chuck that takes any size router bit.

[scott spencer]

I suspect that a 12 or 13 router is about the biggest you'll find in a combo kit, which is really plenty for most applications including spinning big panel raisers now and then...MW, Bosch, PC, DW, Hitachi, Makita, Triton all have well regarded kits. If you plan to spin the big bits in a production environment, get the 15 amp router with a single base....MW5625 or PC7518.

[Bill Berklich]

Gotta agree with multiple routers. I have 7. three Porter Cable 690's, a Triton, a Dewalt 625, a Dewalt compact, and a Porter Cable Laminate Trimmer. And, I use them all. The Dewalt and Triton are mounted in tables, the rest are on the shelf and chucked with high use bits. Make's it way easier to just grab and go. With two tables I set one for rails and one for stiles and I can make doors all day.